Chainsaw and 2 stroke maintence

[Dozzer]

Thanks for that, Im still a bit unsure as yours appears to be a different model carb but your throttle does move a lot further than mine.

Mine is a genuine Husky and around 8 years old, been a very good saw and a bit annoyed when the said they were stopping making them. the 572 is a nice saw, friend has one and it cuts well.

 

[dan.taylor.1]

Anyone got a recommendation for a tachometer for setting high rpm limit on 2 stroke engines? @8ob

 

[paradipiro]

Anyone got a recommendation for a tachometer for setting high rpm limit on 2 stroke engines? @8ob

High rpm limit? That kills the fun.

btw:

 

[Kram]

Anyone got a recommendation for a tachometer for setting high rpm limit on 2 stroke engines? @8ob

I have just ordered one of these. They all look about the same, atleast for the inductive type you wrap a wire around the plug lead.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B09XMKPY7P/

 

[dan.taylor.1]

High rpm limit? That kills the fun.

btw:
View attachment 434311

Kills saws and people too...

 

[Erie Fred]

Anyone got a recommendation for a tachometer for setting high rpm limit on 2 stroke engines? @8ob

I've not seen one on a chainsaw or weedwacker.
where is it ? a throttle stop at the top end ?

 

[angellonewolf]

Anyone got a recommendation for a tachometer for setting high rpm limit on 2 stroke engines? @8ob

I have just ordered one of these. They all look about the same, atleast for the inductive type you wrap a wire around the plug lead.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B09XMKPY7P/

Kills saws and people too...

if you google the make and model they have the standard revs for the model normaly


and ive got one of these cheapy rev ones and its very good and ive never needed the wire either just put it some where close to the spark plug lead and it gives the rpms

 

[dan.taylor.1]

I've not seen one on a chainsaw or weedwacker.
where is it ? a throttle stop at the top end ?

On a chainsaw there's 3 adjustments. On Husqvarna saws it's T which is throttle stop, H which is high jet and L which is low jet. H is generally what sets the top end rpm, it's important to have them set right or they can rev so fast they lose all lubrication and cook themselves etc.

 

[DAPPH]

A lot of chainsaws are now factory set and are no longer adjustable due to environmental pollution concerns

 

[angellonewolf]

On a chainsaw there's 3 adjustments. On Husqvarna saws it's T which is throttle stop, H which is high jet and L which is low jet. H is generally what sets the top end rpm, it's important to have them set right or they can rev so fast they lose all lubrication and cook themselves etc.

A lot of chainsaws are now factory set and are no longer adjustable due to environmental pollution concerns

2nd this there not meny new ones that have ajustments certainly most of the cheaper units but on the cheaper ones it easy g=to get round as they generaly use cheaper carbs and easy changer for a 10er fixes that off ebay

 

[8ob]

Never really understood the need for rev counters, most with a keen ear can tell the difference between max revs and when its starting to dull off. Tuning a carb is pretty straight forward.
1. Drop the chain off and clamp the bar in a vice.
2. Turn idle screw in half a turn
3. Start engine.
4. Adjust L to give the highest tickover rpm and turn back a tad.
5. Do the same with with H on full throttle.
6. Reset idle.
7. Refit chain and check

Bob

 

[angellonewolf]

Never really understood the need for rev counters, most with a keen ear can tell the difference between max revs and when its starting to dull off. Tuning a carb is pretty straight forward.
1. Drop the chain off and clamp the bar in a vice.
2. Turn idle screw in half a turn
3. Start engine.
4. Adjust L to give the highest tickover rpm and turn back a tad.
5. Do the same with with H on full throttle.
6. Reset idle.
7. Refit chain and check

Bob

if your playing with them every day(from one of your photos that you posted on the fourm you got a masive pile of saws etc that are used day in day out) im sure youed get a feel for it as i dont play with them very often unless its for work or a mate or myself now a days in like having the meter just for a quick cheak

and for us people that are starting out and now and again people and if you not even quite sure then a look on line a bloke when i frist started i watched steves small engine saloon his vids are worth a watch i watched a lot of his stuff in the early days of playing with the small 2 stroke stuff and mowers he seams to do as well are quite informative and he expains stuff quite well apart from its american the info he gives helped me when i started off

 

[dobbslc]

If you really get into it you'll want a copy of this book by A Graham Bell.

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=DChcSEwiE-tK9yuuDAxU1NwYAHTokA2oYABABGgJ3cw&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhPrSvcrrgwMVNTcGAB06JANqEAQYASABEgKKrPD_BwE&sig=AOD64_25F2Ofx4ief0soLNlMhzQeliqtMA&adurl&ctype=5&ved=2ahUKEwiitsa9yuuDAxVGpycCHQjqCW4Qwg96BAgBEFE&nis=8

I spent many hours reading up on building and tuning two stroke engines, this guy really knows his stuff!
He also does a four stroke version.

 

[dan.taylor.1]

Never really understood the need for rev counters, most with a keen ear can tell the difference between max revs and when its starting to dull off. Tuning a carb is pretty straight forward.
1. Drop the chain off and clamp the bar in a vice.
2. Turn idle screw in half a turn
3. Start engine.
4. Adjust L to give the highest tickover rpm and turn back a tad.
5. Do the same with with H on full throttle.
6. Reset idle.
7. Refit chain and check

Bob

I was always under the assumption (backed up by the pile of Husqvarna manuals at work) that the chain needed to be on to tune a carb or you're not replicating the load enough?

 

[8ob]

I was always under the assumption (backed up by the pile of Husqvarna manuals at work) that the chain needed to be on to tune a carb or you're not replicating the load enough?

Each to their own Dan, not had issues doing things the way I have. Standing next to a flat out chainsaw with one hand on the throttle and the with the chain brake off while twiddling with mixture screws with the other hand is not a nice place to be.

Bob

 

[Migmac]

I was always under the assumption (backed up by the pile of Husqvarna manuals at work) that the chain needed to be on to tune a carb or you're not replicating the load enough?

That’s the way I as taught.

 

[Migmac]

Each to their own Dan, not had issues doing things the way I have. Standing next to a flat out chainsaw with one hand on the throttle and the with the chain brake off while twiddling with mixture screws with the other hand is not a nice place to be.

Bob

The worse place to be is the dangerous end of a two man chainsaw. No guard round the end of the bar, homemade handle - not nice. I still have all my fingers

 

[Kram]

Some saws have a cold weather restrictor on the carb. My g372 appears it does not, but there is a passage hinted at in the manual as an optional extra.

Without this, do I need to adjust the carb for cold weather, so it wont run lean?

Im hesitant to run without chain, as I read you can overspeed and explode the clutch - seen pictures of the damage!

Having a play with the g372. Plug looked very rich, black and sooted so does need adjusting. Tacho reads 10-11k rpm for WOT. Manual doesnt give the maximum other than it is supposed to have a limiter on the ignition at 13600.
In the spec, max power is 11500 rpm so I guess I should aim for about 12k

 

[Migmac]

I used 254’s in sub zero conditions and snow. All we did was open a flap in the top cover to allow hot air through to the carb. We never needed to adjust the carb

 

[Shiny Steve]

Just picked this up, i think the idle needs adjusting but I cant find the screw.