Westfield-builder
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Wikes didn't come up with the 'use upside down can' it has always been used like that.
- Thread starter Morrisman
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Cobbler
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I fitted a PVC door & had to make up the width with battens down each side, I got some bull nose cover strip from a building plastic supplies & glued it on. I had to cover a bigger gap than you have, but it made a tidy job. There is bound to be a supplier near you, be worth calling in to see what they’ve got. I tried to take a picture, but with the white on white it was difficult to see
Morrisman
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The biggest gap is about 12 mm, but along the top is a 25mm gap because when the wall came down the lowest layer of bricks was 20mm below the garage concrete, so I dropped the door down, less ledge for my aged feet to trip over.
I shall google for trim.
I’m not overly impressed with the door build quality. Main fubar is the internal steel frame of the door is mounted about 8mm too far up, so the cut outs are out of line, meaning the top door handle screw won’t go through.
I pulled the whole lock strip mechanism out, to save getting swarf in the mechanism, and drilled through the steel, so it fits now.
You can see the right hand hole is covered internally.
That strip is held in with about a dozen screws, of apparently random sizes and types. I can see no difference why they aren’t all the same.
Supply problems?I assume I have voided then warranty by my shenanigans, but the only alternative was probably sending the door back for modification, and the previous three months must have been mayhem for the people who build and supply them, so that’s not happening.
Anyway, it is fitted, adjusted, looks pretty good too, far better than the timber shed door I planned to build, that would have saved barely half the cost but been relatively carp.
chrisg3103
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I got a foam gun years ago and never looked back, the skooshy cans are a nightmare. Keeps the foam good for a surprisingly long time so long as you keep the can attached to the gun, and you clean the outside of the nozzle with the cleaner immediately after use.
As for your trim have a look see if you have a eurocell near you, little bit of quadrant will tidy that no bother. Might need to get imaginative with the 25mm gap
As for your trim have a look see if you have a eurocell near you, little bit of quadrant will tidy that no bother. Might need to get imaginative with the 25mm gap
123hotchef
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yes I have a gun too so much more control over the foam.
I think I would use silicon on the sides it will be so much neater just tool it nicely.
Q. how come you didnt foam the top?
I think I would use silicon on the sides it will be so much neater just tool it nicely.
Q. how come you didnt foam the top?
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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Get a real £1 cheapie Blackhawk hard plastic & wire four brush set out of the likes of Poundland . Put heavy duty black cloth tap on the plastic & gently using the tiny steel wire brush remove the foam on the brick work , use a new paint scraper with new Stanley blade to remove it off the plastic holding it as flat as you can & push it towards the brickwork to keep any slight marks to a minimum . To remove the remaining foam rip off the tape &using a lint free cloth knob try using a PVC frame cleaner & gently but firmly rub it off . Most of the foam on the new UPVC triple glazed windows we had put in Feb this year came off with me using the scraper & blade as described .
Yes you can get a finishing quadrant in UPVC to hide the joint as well as 5 mm thick by abut 30 mm wide or wider filler strips .. They need a quality UPVC glue to weld them to the rest of the frame .. using sealing mastic they don't stay stuck for ever .
If you get a filler strip thats too wide draw a line along on edge then cut off the excess with a 32 teeth short plastic saw or a decent tennon saw .
You can always put a filling strip on to support a quadrant strip . One of the windows had to have a 20 mm square rails with a quadrant on top because the brick & plasterwork was so far out .. they ran it round the whole window , frame sides & top so it didn't look odd / out of place .
Yes you can get a finishing quadrant in UPVC to hide the joint as well as 5 mm thick by abut 30 mm wide or wider filler strips .. They need a quality UPVC glue to weld them to the rest of the frame .. using sealing mastic they don't stay stuck for ever .
If you get a filler strip thats too wide draw a line along on edge then cut off the excess with a 32 teeth short plastic saw or a decent tennon saw .
You can always put a filling strip on to support a quadrant strip . One of the windows had to have a 20 mm square rails with a quadrant on top because the brick & plasterwork was so far out .. they ran it round the whole window , frame sides & top so it didn't look odd / out of place .
Morrisman
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I ran out with the first can, but I have one more, and I may glue some trim in place before hitting the inside with the foam.
slim_boy_fat
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As a rank amateur, I'd source and push/glue in hardwood strips, then go over the gap with frame sealant of the appropriate colour [white in your case]. I understand from a pal who retired from the building trade that it won't dry out or shrink.
I'm sure the Collective will tell us if this'd be a good idea....
Morrisman
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As a rank amateur, I'd source and push/glue in hardwood strips, then go over the gap with frame sealant of the appropriate colour [white in your case]. I understand from a pal who retired from the building trade that it won't dry out or shrink.
I'm sure the Collective will tell us if this'd be a good idea....
I did consider that idea, but decided the foam was easier. It ‘worked’ but now the neatening up has to come.
I’m in no hurry, it’s watertight and secure, I think... and I’m still working on the new workshop, which is more fun at the moment.
brightspark
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these are used now https://www.amazon.co.uk/Faithfull-FAIWEDGE100-Plastic-Packing-Wedges/dp/B01BMV32PKAs a rank amateur, I'd source and push/glue in hardwood strips, then go over the gap with frame sealant of the appropriate colour [white in your case]. I understand from a pal who retired from the building trade that it won't dry out or shrink.
I'm sure the Collective will tell us if this'd be a good idea....
slim_boy_fat
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But they'd not be thick enough to take up the .5" @Morrisman mentions at some points? I suppose you could double them up?
Still think hardwood offcuts'd be better.
Pete.
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Cheers.
How best to neaten it up? It looks to big to cap with silicon, so some neat edging seems the best way.
Trying to use an aerosol upside down was not the best idea Wickes have ever come up with.... you can see on that last pic how easy it is to miss the orange ‘this way up’ line around the base of the can.
UPVC quadrant from the double-glazing shop. You can get some nice mastic to go behind it but use the window shop's superglue to hold it in place temporarily.
Windows shops are the best source for superglue. It's slow-curing and very strong, and it's cheap!
fixerupper
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Yeah squirty foam is useful but it needs firm hand and a cool head ...or maybe it's the other way around ....I have used it for a few jobs ... seen it used or many jobs where someone should have had a quiet word with the 'handyman' involved ...I watched a local guy here in Crete try to glue the hinges of a shed door to a stone wall with a can of foam .... He was convinced it would be fine ....I find the trick with it is to use half what you think you will need and have a plant sprayer with water to keep the foam damp ... and then walk away ... Then trim it back with a new sharpe clicky out stanley knife things the next day ....
Morrisman
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I just been my dads house, and around his back door and window (1930's house) there are trim strips of various widths, all glued to the frame and looking quite neat. The installer must have used the proper UPVC adhesive, rather than the white silicone I would be using if someone hadn't mentioned it here.....
Maybe so, but in my experience of using expanding foam aerosols, which extends to one can, ten years ago, this upside down thing is a first. And the one I used before was the correct way up to squirt.
I actually bought two back then, and one has sat in various sheds for ten years or more, and needless to say it didn't squirt anything at all when I pressed the end in.
eLuSiVeMiTe
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Foam gun and screw in can work much better much more precise.I just been my dads house, and around his back door and window (1930's house) there are trim strips of various widths, all glued to the frame and looking quite neat. The installer must have used the proper UPVC adhesive, rather than the white silicone I would be using if someone hadn't mentioned it here.....
Maybe so, but in my experience of using expanding foam aerosols, which extends to one can, ten years ago, this upside down thing is a first. And the one I used before was the correct way up to squirt.
I actually bought two back then, and one has sat in various sheds for ten years or more, and needless to say it didn't squirt anything at all when I pressed the end in.
gaz1
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once you trim it down it allows water into it best not to trim but get it as close as you can
as stated above using a foam gun is much better and controlled enough more so when building layers of foam
