That's looking great, really smart.
Regarding paint removal, I often do the same and use wire wheels on a grinder, but I've also found a scraper can work well.
- Thread starter Smouser
- Start date
Regarding paint removal, I often do the same and use wire wheels on a grinder, but I've also found a scraper can work well.
It looks to me as though there should be a tray (rubber?) On the tailstock.
What mounting does the chuck use?
Smouser
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Yes you are correct. There is a thin metal plate that needs to go 'in' the tray (which I forgot to paint
) and then a rubber tool tray/rubber sheet. I quickly painted the plate tonight with a brush.I still have the original ribbed rubber sheet but it is very dirty and caked with old oil and grease. I could clean it up but the rubber also cracked/perished a little so I think a new ribbed rubber sheet is in order.
I will also need a big piece for the Headstock so I will probably try and buy a 1m x 1m ribbed rubber sheet somewhere.
I don't know what the mounting of the chuck is called, it is a problem I will look at later. This is how the back of the chuck looks like.
I can't help identify the spindle fitting but I guess someone will help in due course. I probably have a spare chuck or three with a plain back if you need one.Yes you are correct. There is a thin metal plate that needs to go 'in' the tray (which I forgot to paint
View attachment 390826
I still have the original ribbed rubber sheet but it is very dirty and caked with old oil and grease. I could clean it up but the rubber also cracked/perished a little so I think a new ribbed rubber sheet is in order.
View attachment 390825
I will also need a big piece for the Headstock so I will probably try and buy a 1m x 1m ribbed rubber sheet somewhere.
I don't know what the mounting of the chuck is called, it is a problem I will look at later. This is how the back of the chuck looks like.
View attachment 390829
Smouser
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Thanks!
I will see what the condition of the chuck is when I have the lathe up and running.
I will probably do little bits on the lathe as and when I get time but the majority of the work will only be completed July/August.
pressbrake1
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Agroshield
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Figure 35, page 37 (44 of pdf) in manual. A1-6.
Note also the spindle taper is No. 14 Brown & Sharpe (http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/tapers.ashx for dimensions)
pressbrake1
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It’s a standard fitting especially on euro lathes.Yes you are correct. There is a thin metal plate that needs to go 'in' the tray (which I forgot to paint
View attachment 390826
I still have the original ribbed rubber sheet but it is very dirty and caked with old oil and grease. I could clean it up but the rubber also cracked/perished a little so I think a new ribbed rubber sheet is in order.
View attachment 390825
I will also need a big piece for the Headstock so I will probably try and buy a 1m x 1m ribbed rubber sheet somewhere.
I don't know what the mounting of the chuck is called, it is a problem I will look at later. This is how the back of the chuck looks like.
View attachment 390829
There is a din number equivalent so bison told me when I contacted them
dieselsamurai
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Hi its Din 55027
dieselsamurai
Too many projects not enough time!
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Also known as bayonet short taper
Martin Hocking
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Well done smouser, great thread! And top work!
I picked up a Cardiff lathe last year and moving that was challenging enough and I had a forklift at one end and a hiab at the other. But getting that off the trailer with an engine crane you deserve your scouts badge for wilderness survival!
A couple of questions if I may:
Probably a silly one but do you notice any difference in the fit of the tailstock now you plated the barrel?
And
Could someone with an omnispeed explain or show me a photo of the tailstock side of the saddle? I’m intrigued by how the crossslide lock is achieved.I can sort of see in pressbrake’s photo but nowhere near clear enough to see properly.
Cheers Martin
I picked up a Cardiff lathe last year and moving that was challenging enough and I had a forklift at one end and a hiab at the other. But getting that off the trailer with an engine crane you deserve your scouts badge for wilderness survival!
A couple of questions if I may:
Probably a silly one but do you notice any difference in the fit of the tailstock now you plated the barrel?
And
Could someone with an omnispeed explain or show me a photo of the tailstock side of the saddle? I’m intrigued by how the crossslide lock is achieved.I can sort of see in pressbrake’s photo but nowhere near clear enough to see properly.
Cheers Martin
Smouser
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Thank you Martin.
It was probably the biggest machine I had to move without 'automotive' / 'powered' help.
In regards to the barrel difference after plating - I have not noticed any difference between the before and after plating. The Barrel still moves freely in and out of the casting when the leadscrew is turned. I have watched a video of somebody who tried to measure the thickness of the nickel plating with a digital caliper and he could not really see any difference between before and after. It seems like the plating is very thin.
However, I do have to state that I have not used the tailstock before I plated the barrel and I have not used it after the plating either. Everything looks fine but I guess I will only really start noticing any problems if there are any once the machine is getting used.
I can't help you with the cross slide lock now - I am away for a few weeks and will not be able to have a look/take a few photos. Because I have not used the machine yet either, there are still a lot of unfamiliarities to me. Hopefully, somebody else can help you before I get back to my lathe.
Agroshield
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In post #4 of this thread, there is a link at the very bottom of the post to a pdf of the manual. Exploded view of the saddle is on page 74 of the pdf. It might help you. The lock is parts 92 to 98.
Martin Hocking
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Thank you agroshield, I really should have noticed that I’ll give it a look in a little while.
Martin
Smouser
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I realised that I would never be able to get this lathe done in only 2 weeks in the summer. Therefore, this weekend I made start on getting some bits painted.
The plan was to paint:
1. The side cover that goes over the gears
2. The splashback
3. The motor covers
4. The chip tray
5. The coolant tank
As with all good intentions, I did not quite manage. I can only do so much dirty grinder work in a day.
A quick reminder of what I want to do in the summer.
A couple of before photos.
Here are the offending chip tray and coolant tank which did not make it onto the cleanup and spray treatment this time.
I used all 4 grinders I own, some more than others. I had a flap disc, a 'soft' wire wheel, knotted cup wire wheel and a paint stripper disc.
The wire wheel seemed to remove the rust and old paint the quickest, the flap disc was used afterwards to try and key the steel a little to potentially help the paint to adhere a little better.
Set up for painting
The plan was to paint:
1. The side cover that goes over the gears
2. The splashback
3. The motor covers
4. The chip tray
5. The coolant tank
As with all good intentions, I did not quite manage. I can only do so much dirty grinder work in a day.
A quick reminder of what I want to do in the summer.
A couple of before photos.
Here are the offending chip tray and coolant tank which did not make it onto the cleanup and spray treatment this time.
I used all 4 grinders I own, some more than others. I had a flap disc, a 'soft' wire wheel, knotted cup wire wheel and a paint stripper disc.
The wire wheel seemed to remove the rust and old paint the quickest, the flap disc was used afterwards to try and key the steel a little to potentially help the paint to adhere a little better.
Set up for painting
Smouser
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- Amesbury, Wiltshire, UK
I also finished refurbing the Memlite lamp (the one on the left). I am planning to use the lamp on the lathe once it is done.
The lamp took an embarrassingly long time to do. There were so many little parts and it felt like there were hundreds of washers. The reassembly and rewiring took a few hours on its own.
I have got another Memlite and I am SERIOUSLY considering to spray it assembled, bolts and all.
Anyway, here are a couple more photos.
There used to be transformer located in the cast iron box which took 440v down to 25v or 50v to make it a low voltage light. I removed it and I am using a normal 240v bulb in mine. Luckily I could re use the switch which makes it pretty cool.
There is also a little space where a plaque used to be indicating the voltages of the transformer etc. I am considering getting a piece of brass engraved with something like the date the lathe has been refurbished or maybe something else.
The lamp is currently living on my bedside table as I am running out of space to put painted things down! It will rejoin the lathe later in the year.
The lamp took an embarrassingly long time to do. There were so many little parts and it felt like there were hundreds of washers. The reassembly and rewiring took a few hours on its own.
I have got another Memlite and I am SERIOUSLY considering to spray it assembled, bolts and all.
Anyway, here are a couple more photos.
There used to be transformer located in the cast iron box which took 440v down to 25v or 50v to make it a low voltage light. I removed it and I am using a normal 240v bulb in mine. Luckily I could re use the switch which makes it pretty cool.
There is also a little space where a plaque used to be indicating the voltages of the transformer etc. I am considering getting a piece of brass engraved with something like the date the lathe has been refurbished or maybe something else.
The lamp is currently living on my bedside table as I am running out of space to put painted things down! It will rejoin the lathe later in the year.
I’m looking for a shade for a machine lamp if anyone has one, not sure what make..
I’ll load up a pic. The tx says it’s a Lovolite...
Smouser
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The 'data or information' plate on my Elliott Omnispeed lathe is knackered.
The location of the plate is probably not the best and through the years previous operators placed tooling/chuck keys etc on it and it started to wear.
Luckily, the manual has basically got a copy of the information of the data plate in it and it could be printed out, laminated and used like that.
However, I wanted to get a metal plate to replace the original but the quality of the scans out of the manual was not really suitable.
I messed around a little on my computer to try and recreate the sign but I soon realised it would take me hours (lack of skill and practice doing this kind of thing).
I remembered that I still had an account at www.freelancer.com and posted the job on there asking for a recreation of the scanned image.
Bids started flowing in instantly (graphics designers must have some algorithm/automatic bid system). I looked through a few bids and selected a Freelancer from Pakistan to recreate the image as he said he could start straight away.
Within a few hours, he sent me the first draft.
As part of the job description on Freelancer.com, I also stated that I wanted the original source file (Adobe Illustrator in this case). Adobe Illustrator uses vector graphics which means you can basically infinitely scale the design without losing quality, unlike an image (jpg, gif etc) which loses quality when you increase its size.
After he made some minor adjustments, I accepted the design, paid the freelancer £20 and he sent all the files over to me.
I then made a few minor adjustments until I was happy with it.
The next problem was, where and on what to get it printed.
I believe the original is on anodized aluminium but I am not too sure. I could not find a place that could provide an instant online quote for anodized aluminium printing but did find a selection of companies that could print on aluminium dibond material.
Lots of companies have a minimum order of £50 - £75 but I found https://www.colour-frog.co.uk which could print the sign for about £21 (375mm x 115mm).
However, for a plate of 375mm x 400mm, it was only £28 so I went for that.
You have the option of either white dibond aluminium or brushed dibond aluminium.
I chose brushed.
This is the design I sent for printing.
This is the preview on the website
Unfortunately, you can't remove the rounded edges at colour frog so I moved the design down a little.
For only a few pounds more I will have the choice of the two data plates while also being able to replace a few other worn/missing signs.
That is, provided I can cut it out very neatly.
I will update this post when the sign arrives in about a week.
@pressbrake1 you are the only one I know who has also got an Elliott Omnispeed, I am not sure how worn your plate is but I am happy to send you the source file if you want to get one printed for yourself.
Finally, has anybody gotten signs printed on anodized aluminium before?
Recommendations for places to get signs printed are most welcome.
The location of the plate is probably not the best and through the years previous operators placed tooling/chuck keys etc on it and it started to wear.
Luckily, the manual has basically got a copy of the information of the data plate in it and it could be printed out, laminated and used like that.
However, I wanted to get a metal plate to replace the original but the quality of the scans out of the manual was not really suitable.
I messed around a little on my computer to try and recreate the sign but I soon realised it would take me hours (lack of skill and practice doing this kind of thing).
I remembered that I still had an account at www.freelancer.com and posted the job on there asking for a recreation of the scanned image.
Bids started flowing in instantly (graphics designers must have some algorithm/automatic bid system). I looked through a few bids and selected a Freelancer from Pakistan to recreate the image as he said he could start straight away.
Within a few hours, he sent me the first draft.
As part of the job description on Freelancer.com, I also stated that I wanted the original source file (Adobe Illustrator in this case). Adobe Illustrator uses vector graphics which means you can basically infinitely scale the design without losing quality, unlike an image (jpg, gif etc) which loses quality when you increase its size.
After he made some minor adjustments, I accepted the design, paid the freelancer £20 and he sent all the files over to me.
I then made a few minor adjustments until I was happy with it.
The next problem was, where and on what to get it printed.
I believe the original is on anodized aluminium but I am not too sure. I could not find a place that could provide an instant online quote for anodized aluminium printing but did find a selection of companies that could print on aluminium dibond material.
Lots of companies have a minimum order of £50 - £75 but I found https://www.colour-frog.co.uk which could print the sign for about £21 (375mm x 115mm).
However, for a plate of 375mm x 400mm, it was only £28 so I went for that.
You have the option of either white dibond aluminium or brushed dibond aluminium.
I chose brushed.
This is the design I sent for printing.
This is the preview on the website
Unfortunately, you can't remove the rounded edges at colour frog so I moved the design down a little.
For only a few pounds more I will have the choice of the two data plates while also being able to replace a few other worn/missing signs.
That is, provided I can cut it out very neatly.
I will update this post when the sign arrives in about a week.
@pressbrake1 you are the only one I know who has also got an Elliott Omnispeed, I am not sure how worn your plate is but I am happy to send you the source file if you want to get one printed for yourself.
Finally, has anybody gotten signs printed on anodized aluminium before?
Recommendations for places to get signs printed are most welcome.
