Smouser
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- Thread starter Smouser
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mtt.tr
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they look mustardThe sign arrived today
It was very well packed, wrapped in bubble wrap with corner protection and then wedged in between two pieces of cardboard as outer packaging.
View attachment 399283
View attachment 399284
Here it is overlayed with the old sign on top
View attachment 399285
View attachment 399286
I am very happy with the quality of the print. It looks better than in the photos.
Here are a couple of close-up photos to try and show the finish a little better.
View attachment 399297
View attachment 399298
However, once again, the photos do not do it justice.
Finally, as I mentioned before, on the colour-frog website you can't remove the rounded corners and I moved my design down a little so that I can cut the signs out in rectangle form.
Good job too, as I am not overly impressed with the rounded corners colour-frog produced.
View attachment 399301
I might be a little over-critical here as I might still make a balls up of the cutting.
I potentially have access to a metal guillotine at work, I might try a little piece on that when I get the chance. In theory, it should cut better than with a circular blade.
I have no idea how I am going to get the round 15's cut out neatly - I included them because I had some space left on the sign and hoped I could come up with some plan to get them cut out.
Smouser
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Guillotine at work made short work of the signs. Really nice clean cuts.
I will have to try one of the methods @Agroshield suggested for the round 15s at some point.
I will have to try one of the methods @Agroshield suggested for the round 15s at some point.
Smouser
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I recently had the gearbox open to have a look at the state of things. I was pleasantly surprised and things looked pretty good in there. I ensured the oil pump was working, cleaned a few bits up and drained the oil.
The oil was pretty clean and I guess it has been changed not too many machine running hours ago.
I decided to not mess around in there any further for now. It might have to be opened again at a later stage to replace a bearing or two but I need to get the machine running first to establish if any bearing needs replacing.
I had a little bit of time today and decided to have a look at the quick-change gearbox (qcgb).
I took all the dials and knobs off to open the qcgb.
At first glance, it did not look too bad.
However, on closer inspection, there was quite a bit of gunk and corrosion.
Luckily, the gears appear undamaged and not corroded. I could not detect any real worn gears either.
I really was not planning to take the qcgb off but it looks like the oil pump is probably clogged up.
The oil pump pumps the oil upwards outside of the qcgb casing where the oil pools and then drips back down through some holes to lubricate the gears. The 'pool area' is also full of gunk and as far as I can tell it looks like some of the holes might be blocked too.
It is challenging to take a photo and see the area where the oil pools and impossible to clean without taking the qcgb off the lathe.
I have got a couple of hours tomorrow to attempt to remove the qcgb and to give it a more through clean.
The paint is failing inside the qcgb (like everywhere else on the lathe).
I am not too keen to disassemble the gears inside the qcgb (as I might not get it back together again
) but I might have to if it is critical for the inside of the qcgb to be painted.
The oil was pretty clean and I guess it has been changed not too many machine running hours ago.
I decided to not mess around in there any further for now. It might have to be opened again at a later stage to replace a bearing or two but I need to get the machine running first to establish if any bearing needs replacing.
I had a little bit of time today and decided to have a look at the quick-change gearbox (qcgb).
I took all the dials and knobs off to open the qcgb.
At first glance, it did not look too bad.
However, on closer inspection, there was quite a bit of gunk and corrosion.
Luckily, the gears appear undamaged and not corroded. I could not detect any real worn gears either.
I really was not planning to take the qcgb off but it looks like the oil pump is probably clogged up.
The oil pump pumps the oil upwards outside of the qcgb casing where the oil pools and then drips back down through some holes to lubricate the gears. The 'pool area' is also full of gunk and as far as I can tell it looks like some of the holes might be blocked too.
It is challenging to take a photo and see the area where the oil pools and impossible to clean without taking the qcgb off the lathe.
I have got a couple of hours tomorrow to attempt to remove the qcgb and to give it a more through clean.
The paint is failing inside the qcgb (like everywhere else on the lathe).
I am not too keen to disassemble the gears inside the qcgb (as I might not get it back together again
) but I might have to if it is critical for the inside of the qcgb to be painted.weldingnovice
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Great job there.
Might be worth trying to use a gasket hole punch for the round signs.
Might be worth trying to use a gasket hole punch for the round signs.
Agroshield
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I think they paint them form the factory for two main reasons.
First, to seal in any foundry sand that might be floating around.
Second, so the surfaces do not corrode due to condensation produced from humidity changes. You can see the rust on the vertical surface where he has removed the front cover - that is from the machine sweating over the years.
If he is to do a surgical clean (not possible on a production line), that eliminates the first reason. If the machine is to be stored in an environment more controlled than the average factory, that eliminates the second.
Smouser
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In order to remove the qcgb, the leadscrew and feed shaft needs to be disconnected.
The feed shaft is held in place with a simple 'c pin' or slotted roll pin which came out pretty easily.
To remove the leadscrew the sacrificial shear pin needs to be removed and the bearing cover.
On this Elliott lathe, the leadscrew can be reversed if it is worn at the closest part to the headstock which will obviously see the most wear. The end closest to the tailstock can then be re-installed at the headstock end which gives you a relatively unworn leadscrew again. It is a pretty cool design, I am not sure if all lathe leadscrews are made the same
Here is a photo of the slotted roll pin removed from the feed shaft and the leadscrew disconnected.
The manual explains the disconnection and leadscrew reversal pretty well.
The leadscrew removed.
Notice that there is no hole for the sacrificial shear pin in the leadscrew on the other side. As per the manual, when the leadscrew is reversed, a hole needs to be drilled for the shear pin. Therefore, this leadscrew has not been reversed before.
There is some slight damage to the leadscrew at the part that was closest to the headstock. I don't know if it will affect the use of the leadscrew but I think when I re-install the leadscrew eventually, I will reverse it.
I cleaned the leadscrew up while it was out.
The 'worn' end
the 'unworn' end
I oiled it up and wrapped it in clear cling film so I can store it somewhere in the garage until I need to re-install it again.
The leadscrew bearing (double thrust bearing) has got some wear to it and it had loads of grime in it. It will probably be fine to still use, however, if I can find a new one for not crazy money I would love to replace it.
It is marked up as R&M England 44 2 FTI - I don't know if there is a newer name for it nowadays.
Dimensions:
ID = 1 inch
OD of the two outside bits = ~40.94mm
OD of the centre bit = ~45.73mm
The feed shaft is held in place with a simple 'c pin' or slotted roll pin which came out pretty easily.
To remove the leadscrew the sacrificial shear pin needs to be removed and the bearing cover.
On this Elliott lathe, the leadscrew can be reversed if it is worn at the closest part to the headstock which will obviously see the most wear. The end closest to the tailstock can then be re-installed at the headstock end which gives you a relatively unworn leadscrew again. It is a pretty cool design, I am not sure if all lathe leadscrews are made the same
Here is a photo of the slotted roll pin removed from the feed shaft and the leadscrew disconnected.
The manual explains the disconnection and leadscrew reversal pretty well.
The leadscrew removed.
Notice that there is no hole for the sacrificial shear pin in the leadscrew on the other side. As per the manual, when the leadscrew is reversed, a hole needs to be drilled for the shear pin. Therefore, this leadscrew has not been reversed before.
There is some slight damage to the leadscrew at the part that was closest to the headstock. I don't know if it will affect the use of the leadscrew but I think when I re-install the leadscrew eventually, I will reverse it.
I cleaned the leadscrew up while it was out.
The 'worn' end
the 'unworn' end
I oiled it up and wrapped it in clear cling film so I can store it somewhere in the garage until I need to re-install it again.
The leadscrew bearing (double thrust bearing) has got some wear to it and it had loads of grime in it. It will probably be fine to still use, however, if I can find a new one for not crazy money I would love to replace it.
It is marked up as R&M England 44 2 FTI - I don't know if there is a newer name for it nowadays.
Dimensions:
ID = 1 inch
OD of the two outside bits = ~40.94mm
OD of the centre bit = ~45.73mm
Smouser
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With the leadscrew and feed shaft disconnected, only 4 fallen head bolts inside the qcgb needed to be removed to get the qcgb off the machine.
It was heavier than it looked, I could just about manage to lift it and place it into the ground.
Notice all the grime and dirt in the oil 'pool' area on the top of the qcgb.
Surprisingly, no oil holes were actually completely blocked. The worst ones were about three-quarters blocked with grime, old paint and rust but would have still allowed oil through.
I got the worst of the grime off the qcgb.
I then carried it into the garage where it will stay until I have a bit of time again to continue cleaning and decide if I want to strip it to give the inside paint or not.
The more I look at it, the more I think I should strip it. However, that will mean it is another few days extra before I can get the lathe up and running. I guess I will have to make a call once it is a little bit cleaner.
That is it, for now, back to work back to reality.
To be continued when time permits.
It was heavier than it looked, I could just about manage to lift it and place it into the ground.
Notice all the grime and dirt in the oil 'pool' area on the top of the qcgb.
Surprisingly, no oil holes were actually completely blocked. The worst ones were about three-quarters blocked with grime, old paint and rust but would have still allowed oil through.
I got the worst of the grime off the qcgb.
I then carried it into the garage where it will stay until I have a bit of time again to continue cleaning and decide if I want to strip it to give the inside paint or not.
The more I look at it, the more I think I should strip it. However, that will mean it is another few days extra before I can get the lathe up and running. I guess I will have to make a call once it is a little bit cleaner.
That is it, for now, back to work back to reality.
To be continued when time permits.
Agroshield
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That looks so close to the headstock that the half nuts may never touch it. It might be worth driving the carriage all the way forward and seeing if it reaches that part of the leadscrew.
Ransome and Marles:
Ransome & Marles Ball and Roller Bearings
Welcome to the Ransome and Marles Bearings replacement website.
www.ransomeandmarles.co.uk
A proper bearing factor will find you an equivalent.
Smouser
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Good point. I will check it when re-installing.
I don't know of any locally. I will have to rely on the forum or searching the web for one.
Agroshield
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Sorry, I was confused. It should be FT1 (F T one), which looks like a standard imperial thrust bearing (https://www.bearings-online.co.uk/item/2998/ThrustBearings/FT1-Thrust-Bearing.html). See this one, which is called FT1.5/8 for 1 5/8" bore (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175243091123).
Search Results: - Simply Bearings Ltd
simplybearings.co.uk
Smouser
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I made a little bit of progress on the lathe over the last couple of weeks.
I bought 2 x thrust bearings which @Agroshield linked and they are in the parts crate ready to be installed when the time comes.
I worked on the qcgb first, cleaning it out as much as possible and I also wanted to have a closer look at the oil pump.
Access is severely restricted to get to the oil pump in the qcgb if all the gears and shafts are not removed and removing the oil pump resulted in me damaging the aluminium pipe that goes from the pump to the top of the qcgb.
The oil pump is circled in red and the oil pipe indicated by the green line (which you can't see on the photo)
After struggling for a bit, I got the oil pump out.
The filter was damaged/disintegrated.
I made a new filter and also ordered some copper 3/16 'brake line' pipe to replace the snapped aluminium oil pipe.
The next thing on the list was the electrical box of the lathe.
The circled switch gets connected to the third shaft of the lathe which controls the forward/reverse functions.
All components are to be removed except for the circled forward/reverse switch and the coolant switch which I will re-use via a VFD at a later stage.
I had quite a few bits stripped off paint at this stage which required painting. Plugging all the holes and masking the qcgb took quite a while.
Some painted bits
I bought 2 x thrust bearings which @Agroshield linked and they are in the parts crate ready to be installed when the time comes.
I worked on the qcgb first, cleaning it out as much as possible and I also wanted to have a closer look at the oil pump.
Access is severely restricted to get to the oil pump in the qcgb if all the gears and shafts are not removed and removing the oil pump resulted in me damaging the aluminium pipe that goes from the pump to the top of the qcgb.
The oil pump is circled in red and the oil pipe indicated by the green line (which you can't see on the photo)
After struggling for a bit, I got the oil pump out.
The filter was damaged/disintegrated.
I made a new filter and also ordered some copper 3/16 'brake line' pipe to replace the snapped aluminium oil pipe.
The next thing on the list was the electrical box of the lathe.
The circled switch gets connected to the third shaft of the lathe which controls the forward/reverse functions.
All components are to be removed except for the circled forward/reverse switch and the coolant switch which I will re-use via a VFD at a later stage.
I had quite a few bits stripped off paint at this stage which required painting. Plugging all the holes and masking the qcgb took quite a while.
Some painted bits
Smouser
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The oil pipe arrived the day after I painted all the bits and I tried to make a new oil pipe and fit it into the qcgb.
That was an epic affair and it took me close to 2 hours to get the thing in with the severely restricted access and me trying to bend the oil pipe so it fits just right.
Fast forward a week or so and it was time to remove the apron, cross slide and compound rest.
As usual, it took much longer than anticipated.
All the bits were carried into the garage where they will stay until I get a bit of time to work on them.
I then swapped focus to the main casting of the lathe.
I think I have about 2 more hours of paint and filler stripping left to do. Then a few hours cleaning and masking everything up before I can paint the main castings.
The amount of dust from the filler is unreal - I hate the stuff.
No filler will be used, the lathe is getting painted with the casting 'errors'. It does not need to be silky smooth.
That was an epic affair and it took me close to 2 hours to get the thing in with the severely restricted access and me trying to bend the oil pipe so it fits just right.
Fast forward a week or so and it was time to remove the apron, cross slide and compound rest.
As usual, it took much longer than anticipated.
All the bits were carried into the garage where they will stay until I get a bit of time to work on them.
I then swapped focus to the main casting of the lathe.
I think I have about 2 more hours of paint and filler stripping left to do. Then a few hours cleaning and masking everything up before I can paint the main castings.
The amount of dust from the filler is unreal - I hate the stuff.
No filler will be used, the lathe is getting painted with the casting 'errors'. It does not need to be silky smooth.
Smouser
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Finished today with the grinder.
If time permits, I will set up my gazebo (now called the paint room) and get the lathe in there.
I don't think I have enough paint so I ordered more from Paragon paints. However, from past experience they are not very fast at getting paint to your door. Think on average I waited about 4 working days for the paint to arrive.
If time permits, I will set up my gazebo (now called the paint room) and get the lathe in there.
I don't think I have enough paint so I ordered more from Paragon paints. However, from past experience they are not very fast at getting paint to your door. Think on average I waited about 4 working days for the paint to arrive.
Smouser
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I am not as quick as you reviving a lathe, that is for sure!Looks like a big jump forward in progress. Getting exciting now
I have now got to stage where I feel it will be highly unlikely that the project won't be completed this year.
The cross slide, apron, compound and qcgb feels like mini projects on their own.
I will be happy once the main castings are painted and cured because I can then start to refit some parts to it and gain some valuable garage space back.
GraemeVW
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To be fair, mine is a pretty simple belt drive lathe.
I also have the benefit of only really working part time, and having no kids.
We do this for fun, do it at whatever pace doesn't stress you out and don't guilt yourself with pointless self imposed timescales.
