pressbrake1
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Look forward to seeing it!
That plate on mine being older is engraved laminated plastic
That plate on mine being older is engraved laminated plastic
That is, provided I can cut it out very neatly.
Wow! Fantastic work smouser! Well done for having read the instructions for the modern world. I’d have stopped and shrugged my shoulders after the laminator had cooled down!!!The 'data or information' plate on my Elliott Omnispeed lathe is knackered.
The location of the plate is probably not the best and through the years previous operators placed tooling/chuck keys etc on it and it started to wear.
View attachment 398272
Luckily, the manual has basically got a copy of the information of the data plate in it and it could be printed out, laminated and used like that.
View attachment 398273
View attachment 398274
However, I wanted to get a metal plate to replace the original but the quality of the scans out of the manual was not really suitable.
I messed around a little on my computer to try and recreate the sign but I soon realised it would take me hours (lack of skill and practice doing this kind of thing).
I remembered that I still had an account at www.freelancer.com and posted the job on there asking for a recreation of the scanned image.
Bids started flowing in instantly (graphics designers must have some algorithm/automatic bid system). I looked through a few bids and selected a Freelancer from Pakistan to recreate the image as he said he could start straight away.
Within a few hours, he sent me the first draft.
View attachment 398275
As part of the job description on Freelancer.com, I also stated that I wanted the original source file (Adobe Illustrator in this case). Adobe Illustrator uses vector graphics which means you can basically infinitely scale the design without losing quality, unlike an image (jpg, gif etc) which loses quality when you increase its size.
After he made some minor adjustments, I accepted the design, paid the freelancer £20 and he sent all the files over to me.
I then made a few minor adjustments until I was happy with it.
The next problem was, where and on what to get it printed.
I believe the original is on anodized aluminium but I am not too sure. I could not find a place that could provide an instant online quote for anodized aluminium printing but did find a selection of companies that could print on aluminium dibond material.
Lots of companies have a minimum order of £50 - £75 but I found https://www.colour-frog.co.uk which could print the sign for about £21 (375mm x 115mm).
However, for a plate of 375mm x 400mm, it was only £28 so I went for that.
You have the option of either white dibond aluminium or brushed dibond aluminium.
I chose brushed.
This is the design I sent for printing.
View attachment 398271
This is the preview on the website
View attachment 398276
Unfortunately, you can't remove the rounded edges at colour frog so I moved the design down a little.
For only a few pounds more I will have the choice of the two data plates while also being able to replace a few other worn/missing signs.
That is, provided I can cut it out very neatly.
I will update this post when the sign arrives in about a week.
@pressbrake1 you are the only one I know who has also got an Elliott Omnispeed, I am not sure how worn your plate is but I am happy to send you the source file if you want to get one printed for yourself.
Finally, has anybody gotten signs printed on anodized aluminium before?
Recommendations for places to get signs printed are most welcome.
3mm thickness. I think the aluminium is about 0.5mm each side with the composite material being 2mm thick in the middle.How thick is it? A guillotine or shear might be the tool for that.
Thank you, but it was mostly the freelancer doing the workWow! Fantastic work smouser! Well done for having read the instructions for the modern world. I’d have stopped and shrugged my shoulders after the laminator had cooled down!!!
3mm thickness. I think the aluminium is about 0.5mm each side with the composite material being 2mm thick in the middle.
A guillotine might work. I see online some people use fined tooth blades on a track saw or similar.
I have got a Lidl Parkside track saw but not a fine blade.
Thank you, but it was mostly the freelancer doing the work
...the feed range lever is marked 1, 2 and 4...
I have to admit that I still don't know how to cut a 1.75 pitch metric threadIt’s funny how you can look and not see…
After seeing smousers excellent effort i clambered into the armpit that is my garage and took another look at the plate on my Cardiff which is very similar but not the same.
View attachment 398701
Looks like it’s been run over! I think I’ll have to settle for opening the lid of a permanent marker instead of opening a freelancer account!
Anyway what I’ve pondered for a little while is why the feed range lever is marked 1,2 and 4 and why instead of having what would seem like a very useful 1.75mm pitch thread in the gearbox there are several seemingly odd decimal pitches.
After looking in the manual which I’ve looked at countless times before all becomes clear.
The feed ranges are doubled by each selection, so to get 1.75 you’d sacrifice several other useful sizes, which I’m sure was obvious to those with skin in the game.
It was quite a eureka moment so I feel like I need to tell someone!
Agro’s method is probably the simplest way but might require a new gear, working it out with the standard gears is a fingers and toes job for me!I have to admit that I still don't know how to cut a 1.75 pitch metric thread
However, everytime I look at the plate I become a little wiser too .
Your plate does not look too bad. However, if you want a new one printing, I am happy to send you the Adobe Illustrator source file. It is much easier editing something than creating it from scratch.
It's worth noting that the taper itself is compatible with Camlock and Bolt-On short taper spindle noses, but the PCD of the studs that engage the bayonet ring is several mm wider.
Good information. Thank you!It's worth noting that the taper itself is compatible with Camlock and Bolt-On short taper spindle noses, but the PCD of the studs that engage the bayonet ring is several mm wider.
This means you can easily adapt a chuck for either of the other two standards by drilling and tapping new holes (offset from the originals), but also that you can't take it for granted that a chuck will fit based on visual inspection as it could be a Bolt-On type.
I am not seeing many about?I have come close to buying an Omnispeed on several occasions. Far too many lathes at the moment though.
It is right up there on my wish list along with a DSG although I am spoilt with my Holbrook H20.
Funnily enough though my favourite and most used is still my trusty old Triumph roundhead!
I'd like the space to house it first! I already have, in various working and non working states, 3 metal and 2 wood lathes!@RobCox need an Elliott Omnispeed
Thats what I plan to do as mine is equivilent to D1-4 Camlock like you say just a shame the PCD is a few mm outIt's worth noting that the taper itself is compatible with Camlock and Bolt-On short taper spindle noses, but the PCD of the studs that engage the bayonet ring is several mm wider.
This means you can easily adapt a chuck for either of the other two standards by drilling and tapping new holes (offset from the originals), but also that you can't take it for granted that a chuck will fit based on visual inspection as it could be a Bolt-On type.
I have no idea how I am going to get the round 15's cut out neatly