pressbrake1
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Look forward to seeing it!
That plate on mine being older is engraved laminated plastic
That plate on mine being older is engraved laminated plastic
- Thread starter Smouser
- Start date
Agroshield
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How thick is it? A guillotine or shear might be the tool for that.
Martin Hocking
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Wow! Fantastic work smouser! Well done for having read the instructions for the modern world. I’d have stopped and shrugged my shoulders after the laminator had cooled down!!!
Smouser
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3mm thickness. I think the aluminium is about 0.5mm each side with the composite material being 2mm thick in the middle.
A guillotine might work. I see online some people use fined tooth blades on a track saw or similar.
I have got a Lidl Parkside track saw but not a fine blade.
Thank you, but it was mostly the freelancer doing the work
mtt.tr
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3mm thickness. I think the aluminium is about 0.5mm each side with the composite material being 2mm thick in the middle.
A guillotine might work. I see online some people use fined tooth blades on a track saw or similar.
I have got a Lidl Parkside track saw but not a fine blade.
Thank you, but it was mostly the freelancer doing the work
Track saw cuts it fine, I've cut it before
Martin Hocking
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It’s funny how you can look and not see…
After seeing smousers excellent effort i clambered into the armpit that is my garage and took another look at the plate on my Cardiff which is very similar but not the same.
Looks like it’s been run over! I think I’ll have to settle for opening the lid of a permanent marker instead of opening a freelancer account!
Anyway what I’ve pondered for a little while is why the feed range lever is marked 1,2 and 4 and why instead of having what would seem like a very useful 1.75mm pitch thread in the gearbox there are several seemingly odd decimal pitches.
After looking in the manual which I’ve looked at countless times before all becomes clear.
The feed ranges are doubled by each selection, so to get 1.75 you’d sacrifice several other useful sizes, which I’m sure was obvious to those with skin in the game.
It was quite a eureka moment so I feel like I need to tell someone!
After seeing smousers excellent effort i clambered into the armpit that is my garage and took another look at the plate on my Cardiff which is very similar but not the same.
Looks like it’s been run over! I think I’ll have to settle for opening the lid of a permanent marker instead of opening a freelancer account!
Anyway what I’ve pondered for a little while is why the feed range lever is marked 1,2 and 4 and why instead of having what would seem like a very useful 1.75mm pitch thread in the gearbox there are several seemingly odd decimal pitches.
After looking in the manual which I’ve looked at countless times before all becomes clear.
The feed ranges are doubled by each selection, so to get 1.75 you’d sacrifice several other useful sizes, which I’m sure was obvious to those with skin in the game.
It was quite a eureka moment so I feel like I need to tell someone!
Agroshield
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Even that is a little bit of poetic license. I suspect that if you found the actual gears, they would be 1:2, 1:1 and 2:1 but no-one wants a lever that says 0.5, 1 and 2 on it.
If you need 1.75mm pitch, it may be possible by gearing up 1mm pitch by 7:4 or by gearing down 2mm pitch by 7/8.
Smouser
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I have to admit that I still don't know how to cut a 1.75 pitch metric thread
However, everytime I look at the plate I become a little wiser too
.Your plate does not look too bad. However, if you want a new one printing, I am happy to send you the Adobe Illustrator source file. It is much easier editing something than creating it from scratch.
Martin Hocking
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I think you’re right… There was plenty of poetic licence on show elsewhere, this part of a Cardiff advert sums it up exactly…
Martin Hocking
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Agro’s method is probably the simplest way but might require a new gear, working it out with the standard gears is a fingers and toes job for me!I have to admit that I still don't know how to cut a 1.75 pitch metric thread
However, everytime I look at the plate I become a little wiser too
Your plate does not look too bad. However, if you want a new one printing, I am happy to send you the Adobe Illustrator source file. It is much easier editing something than creating it from scratch.
Oh yes please, that file would be fun to play around with at the very least, but almost certainly very useful indeed.
Jelly_Sheffield
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It's worth noting that the taper itself is compatible with Camlock and Bolt-On short taper spindle noses, but the PCD of the studs that engage the bayonet ring is several mm wider.
This means you can easily adapt a chuck for either of the other two standards by drilling and tapping new holes (offset from the originals), but also that you can't take it for granted that a chuck will fit based on visual inspection as it could be a Bolt-On type.
Smouser
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Good information. Thank you!
I have come close to buying an Omnispeed on several occasions. Far too many lathes at the moment though.
It is right up there on my wish list along with a DSG although I am spoilt with my Holbrook H20.
Funnily enough though my favourite and most used is still my trusty old Triumph roundhead!
It is right up there on my wish list along with a DSG although I am spoilt with my Holbrook H20.
Funnily enough though my favourite and most used is still my trusty old Triumph roundhead!
RobCox
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I'd like the space to house it first! I already have, in various working and non working states, 3 metal and 2 wood lathes!
dieselsamurai
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Thats what I plan to do as mine is equivilent to D1-4 Camlock like you say just a shame the PCD is a few mm out
Smouser
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The sign arrived today 
It was very well packed, wrapped in bubble wrap with corner protection and then wedged in between two pieces of cardboard as outer packaging.
Here it is overlayed with the old sign on top
I am very happy with the quality of the print. It looks better than in the photos.
Here are a couple of close-up photos to try and show the finish a little better.
However, once again, the photos do not do it justice.
Finally, as I mentioned before, on the colour-frog website you can't remove the rounded corners and I moved my design down a little so that I can cut the signs out in rectangle form.
Good job too, as I am not overly impressed with the rounded corners colour-frog produced.
I might be a little over-critical here as I might still make a balls up of the cutting.
I potentially have access to a metal guillotine at work, I might try a little piece on that when I get the chance. In theory, it should cut better than with a circular blade.
I have no idea how I am going to get the round 15's cut out neatly - I included them because I had some space left on the sign and hoped I could come up with some plan to get them cut out.
It was very well packed, wrapped in bubble wrap with corner protection and then wedged in between two pieces of cardboard as outer packaging.
Here it is overlayed with the old sign on top
I am very happy with the quality of the print. It looks better than in the photos.
Here are a couple of close-up photos to try and show the finish a little better.
However, once again, the photos do not do it justice.
Finally, as I mentioned before, on the colour-frog website you can't remove the rounded corners and I moved my design down a little so that I can cut the signs out in rectangle form.
Good job too, as I am not overly impressed with the rounded corners colour-frog produced.
I might be a little over-critical here as I might still make a balls up of the cutting.
I potentially have access to a metal guillotine at work, I might try a little piece on that when I get the chance. In theory, it should cut better than with a circular blade.
I have no idea how I am going to get the round 15's cut out neatly - I included them because I had some space left on the sign and hoped I could come up with some plan to get them cut out.
Agroshield
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What diameter are they? If they match the OD of a standard bearing, you can glue one concentric to the circle on the back and use it as a filing button. With care a round piece of mild steel would also do the job. File in a direction so the file enters from the finished side.
If you can hold them without removing your fingertips, very careful use of a belt sander would do it. If the bit of metal on the back has a hole in it, it can locate on a pin so the whole thing rotates a constant distance from the sanding belt.
Superglue them onto a round piece of metal and dial it in in a four jaw chuck and gently turn them round. Use two sheets of paper PVA glued together between the part and the metal so you can soak in water at the end to separate.
