Evaporust - first time user / review

[Ross365]

It wont touch chrome.

That looks like a good result; I do wonder how Evapor-rust would compare in side by side tests. One may be faster, but if time is not too crucial, the end results might be comparable?

Re storage of citric, think you will find that the powder keeps pretty much for ever.

 

[Popcorn]

Use a Aquarium Heater
aquarium heater

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

That's the exact use I have planned too. I have a bucket of Mercedes tools to de rust then get silver zinc plated locally.

How much citric acid powder do you use per litre of water etc?

I use this small cup per kettle of water

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

That looks like a good result; I do wonder how Evapor-rust would compare in side by side tests. One may be faster, but if time is not too crucial, the end results might be comparable?

Re storage of citric, think you will find that the powder keeps pretty much for ever.

Keep it dry and it lasts indefinitely.

I don't keep the solution as it eventually goes mouldy.

 

[Geoffm]

I have oxalic acid which I tried for rust removal on some tools. Worked ok, if not quickly.

 

[Ross365]

Oxalic is not so good from a health point of view.

 

[not done it yet]

I have oxalic acid which I tried for rust removal on some tools. Worked ok, if not quickly.

More useful for brass, rather than ferrous?

 

[Red'n'Black]

Chloride ions are brilliant at initiating corrosion; ask the Scots, who's cars rust like crazy because of all the salt they use in winter. Moreover, when you get chloride on metal surfaces, it is "quite hard" to wash it off. No amount of plain water will do it.

So, if it's still there when you apply whatever paint you use, return of the rust will be very much quicker than if you'd not used it.
If POR do use it, then I suspect they recommend the use of their highly expensive product to de-chloride it afterwards.
I worked in the nuclear industry; we were given special fibre markers with chloride-free solvent in them for use on our kit.

I think some people rate bee's wax on tools.

One of the jobs on my list is to clean up the drum on a cement mixer I rescued from my parents' place, as usual with these things it's caked in concrete.

The outside I can attack with a knotted wire wheel, but for the inside I was going to buy some brick acid, which I think is dilute hydrochloric, and leave it running with that and a handful of gravel inside. But having read that, I might have to have a re-think.

Anybody else tackled one of these? What did you use?

 

[Seadog]

The second that you've emptied it and flushed it out it will flash rust.

 

[ukracer]

Is there a forum consensus where the cheapest evaporust can be purchased.

 

[Sergei Slovenija]

One of the jobs on my list is to clean up the drum on a cement mixer I rescued from my parents' place, as usual with these things it's caked in concrete.

The outside I can attack with a knotted wire wheel, but for the inside I was going to buy some brick acid, which I think is dilute hydrochloric, and leave it running with that and a handful of gravel inside. But having read that, I might have to have a re-think.

Anybody else tackled one of these? What did you use?

To dissolve cement for ceramic tiles, I used formic acid in powder + water. From memory, Italy, Mapei brand

 

[fizzy]

I remember, as a kid, buying something called Rust X I think - back in the late 70s. It was a green jelly - they claimed safe enough to eat. It was amazing on rusted tools. Worked brilliantly. Leave it for a few hours and wash off. Did an amazing job. Wasn't happy when I tried it on my air rifle barrel - removed the blueing completely
Came in a white bottle - anyone remember it? I think it may have been the same sort of stuff as evaporust.

 

[not done it yet]

To dissolve cement for ceramic tiles, I used formic acid in powder + water. From memory, Italy, Mapei brand

Formic acid is a liquid! Do you mean you mixed it with a powder to form a thick slurry?

 

[Sergei Slovenija]

Formic acid is a liquid! Do you mean you mixed it with a powder to form a thick slurry?

It was a long time ago. Maybe it was the formate? Now Mapei uses crystals https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sulfamic_acid

 

[Cobbler]

I remember, as a kid, buying something called Rust X I think - back in the late 70s. It was a green jelly - they claimed safe enough to eat. It was amazing on rusted tools. Worked brilliantly. Leave it for a few hours and wash off. Did an amazing job. Wasn't happy when I tried it on my air rifle barrel - removed the blueing completely
Came in a white bottle - anyone remember it? I think it may have been the same sort of stuff as evaporust.

Sounds similar to Naval Gel & think it was, sold mail order. Brush it on, wash it off & the rust is gone ….. yer right!

 

[Ross365]

I think that Naval gel is based on phosphoric.

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

As others have posted...what I really like about citric acid is the safety...can go down the drain.

I also use citric to clean my kettles...couple tea spoons then boil and leave.

 

[fizzy]

Sounds similar to Naval Gel & think it was, sold mail order. Brush it on, wash it off & the rust is gone ….. yer right!

No this stuff really worked brilliantly.

 

[MattF]

Found electrolysis to be so so much better.

That's my favourite method by far. Not a fan of citric at all.

 

[not done it yet]

I use citric acid regularly - in the dishwasher - as it (hopefully) ensures the heating element remains operational. It’s a ‘Bodge’ with the heating element printed on the outside of a stainless steel tube. The only one I changed was about £75? That means an occasional cycle with citric is, by far, a better option than the cost and aggravation of repairing it! Mine ran for a long time without trouble (it has a water softener) but it only needed a slight amount of scale to destroy the element. Repairers report a good trade in changing failed heaters.

I never use the highest temperature ‘intensive’ wash cycle - that likely stresses the (rubbish) heating element in these machines.