Fairline Fury MK2 refurb

[W.olly]

I put it down to having less time at work and better weather but i have strated even more. The lsit is getting long now on jobs started, which is as we are now

One engine is rebuilt and waiting on a few gaskets to get it sorted. Ill show that in a week or so.
Windows halfway through them. well sort of but it an as and when in bad weather days ill sort them in the shed.

This weekend i have added 200mm to the gantry height so it will be easier to move over the boat when it has lifted the boat off the trailer.

This is how it was, it had less than an inch to clear the bridge top.

So just extended the legs a bit. I mite add a brace along the bottom of the legs, but then its only lifting and not rolling with a heavy load on. Sounds dodgy but be reat

Plenty of room now....i hope.

These little sods are what is few left of the deck fittings to be removed for rechroming.

These vents are fixed using machine screw tapped into the 8mm GRP superstructure and in well, well the very last screw will not but so ill be trying the set of damaged screw removers, never used them before so its time to see fi the work.

And to get them off is to cut out a section of the internal skin to get to the nuts. Not a bad thing as there under the gunnel and can be fixed back inplace.

I have said and will again,m the best tool of all the gear i have is the Multitools. Makes life so much easier. Hate to think about having to get in some places to do jobs without one.

So then i had to get the back panel off the galley top. Hey just a couple of taps in th way at one end.

Ye right. no way could i get to the nuts underneath to remove the taps.
So out come Garry the Grinder

Things you have to do ha ha. Good job its being replaced.

So it looks a mess as always in this time of a project. i have kept all the panels to use as templates for new ones to be made. I am going white/grey colour scheme. Oh yes still bloody waiting on the canopy to be made, been 10 months now i reckon. Good job no rush although need it now as i want to sort the bulkhead out this year and its a big job, the biggest.

Hope to show the sexy looking engine next update, god i love a real engine with twin carbs

C Faffer

 

[minimutly]

I put it down to having less time at work and better weather but i have strated even more. The lsit is getting long now on jobs started, which is as we are now

One engine is rebuilt and waiting on a few gaskets to get it sorted. Ill show that in a week or so.
Windows halfway through them. well sort of but it an as and when in bad weather days ill sort them in the shed.

This weekend i have added 200mm to the gantry height so it will be easier to move over the boat when it has lifted the boat off the trailer.

This is how it was, it had less than an inch to clear the bridge top.

So just extended the legs a bit. I mite add a brace along the bottom of the legs, but then its only lifting and not rolling with a heavy load on. Sounds dodgy but be reat

Plenty of room now....i hope.

These little sods are what is few left of the deck fittings to be removed for rechroming.

These vents are fixed using machine screw tapped into the 8mm GRP superstructure and in well, well the very last screw will not but so ill be trying the set of damaged screw removers, never used them before so its time to see fi the work.

And to get them off is to cut out a section of the internal skin to get to the nuts. Not a bad thing as there under the gunnel and can be fixed back inplace.

I have said and will again,m the best tool of all the gear i have is the Multitools. Makes life so much easier. Hate to think about having to get in some places to do jobs without one.

So then i had to get the back panel off the galley top. Hey just a couple of taps in th way at one end.

Ye right. no way could i get to the nuts underneath to remove the taps.
So out come Garry the Grinder

Things you have to do ha ha. Good job its being replaced.

So it looks a mess as always in this time of a project. i have kept all the panels to use as templates for new ones to be made. I am going white/grey colour scheme. Oh yes still bloody waiting on the canopy to be made, been 10 months now i reckon. Good job no rush although need it now as i want to sort the bulkhead out this year and its a big job, the biggest.

Hope to show the sexy looking engine next update, god i love a real engine with twin carbs

C Faffer

Baby belling, wow. Had one in our CF camper van

 

[W.olly]

Baby belling, wow. Had one in our CF camper van

If i am skint when time comes ill be keeping it if serviceable. Will b eok with BSS at a push as its original. Doubt i will though. Mite get another Voyager.

 

[W.olly]

All off now and waiting for quotes for a rechrome. I am thinking on polishing them up myself back to the brass. mite have a go in a bit when T has gone to work.

 

[W.olly]

Cleaned a couple of the vents up to see what thye would come out like.

I got a price for the chrome to be done and first quote is £480. just a tads more than i was wanting to pay.

Now though i dont know if to keep them polished brass of Electroless Nickle plate them myself. I have a few spare bits i can try it on so mite give it a go. I would want a good thickness of nickle so a good 45-60 mins dip should do the trick.

 

[mylesdw]

Might be worth another visit to your platers to see if they will quote to plate the bits you have polished 'as is'. They have come up beautifully. Nickel would look great, not so sparkly as chrome.

 

[fizzy]

Cleaned a couple of the vents up to see what thye would come out like.

I got a price for the chrome to be done and first quote is £480. just a tads more than i was wanting to pay.

Now though i dont know if to keep them polished brass of Electroless Nickle plate them myself. I have a few spare bits i can try it on so mite give it a go. I would want a good thickness of nickle so a good 45-60 mins dip should do the trick.

WOW amazing!

 

[W.olly]

Might be worth another visit to your platers to see if they will quote to plate the bits you have polished 'as is'. They have come up beautifully. Nickel would look great, not so sparkly as chrome.

I have done but no reply back. Maybe some.dont like to as its taking there work. As we know it's the biggest job in plating.
No rush so I'll contact some more platers.

 

[daedalusminos]

Cleaned a couple of the vents up to see what thye would come out like.

I got a price for the chrome to be done and first quote is £480. just a tads more than i was wanting to pay.

Now though i dont know if to keep them polished brass of Electroless Nickle plate them myself. I have a few spare bits i can try it on so mite give it a go. I would want a good thickness of nickle so a good 45-60 mins dip should do the trick.

Do the electro nickel plating yourself, you can get a lovely finish with one of the starter kits (gateros for example)

Edit: If the base metal is pitted you can lay down a heavy copper underplate and level that

 

[W.olly]

Might be worth another visit to your platers to see if they will quote to plate the bits you have polished 'as is'. They have come up beautifully. Nickel would look great, not so sparkly as chrome.

I have contacted the platers and one says they need to do the prep work a stye dip the items to remove all old chrome etc.

One though says they will but just getting a price on that.

Do the electro nickel plating yourself, you can get a lovely finish with one of the starter kits (gateros for example)

Edit: If the base metal is pitted you can lay down a heavy copper underplate and level that

That is the plan to do Nickle myself i i go that way. Upto now all the surfaces are good, and all other parts are in same condition from the looks from when i did the first two, so could be lucky there.

 

[W.olly]

One down, part rebuilt it and ew gaskets etcetera. Rebuilt the carbs as they were in much eed of it.

Tarted it up aswell, can't not do once it's out
No point putting a grubby engine back in.

 

[W.olly]

Pics for thise that dont do YT or vids

 

[Bullet2012]

Looks very smart

 

[W.olly]

Today didnt go as well i hoped, or as thought it would of. This block was the better of the two i had out of the boat. I have a couple of good heads here so i decided to see how good/bad the block, and head is instead of jumping in and getting it all machined, no point if they dint need it.

I first wanted them in the build area i had planned for a while so moved them over on new stands to work on.

Lucky i got a couple of engine supports in the pile of spares with the other engine so just had to make the mounts. To find them for sale in like rocky horse doo dar, and when you do you dont want to pay it.

just 5mm plate i had lying around.

god dam i wish the boat yard was a level ground ha ha, not easy moving an engine crane and engines about over that lot.

this is why i hate throwing stuff out, had this 4x2 lying around for over ayear now.

all in place ready

All i need is the head fitting and bits to check the compression so chose the best head. Well from they look like.

The block isnt the best but will still show what i need to know

I actually guessed or knew what the outcome would be but at times i try to ignore it and need the proof to see i am right.

Which was that the 4th and 3rd are knackered and need a rebore. I have one of the cheap compression test kits which are good enough for what i need.

These are the readings, the ones in black are of the other good engine, so all in good tolerance of each other. The red ones are this block.

Top dry test, second wet test and third the difference. Not good

So atleast a block rebore and skim. Head i will see more but seems good as is at the minute.


Oh yes and also today i got a mould sorted to make helms, ill show ,more of that this weekend maybe if they come out ok.

 

[Burdekin]

That’s the late model B20 big valve head, nice.

 

[W.olly]

That’s the late model B20 big valve head, nice.

I have three heads and I think all the same. Saying that I havnt measured the valves on them yet lol

 

[Burdekin]

I have three heads and I think all the same. Saying that I havnt measured the valves on them yet lol

See the P shape casting on the top, that was added for the fuel injection head and used on the late B20 carb engines also without drilling the holes for the injectors. Means it’s the big valve head. I assume it will also be the 8 bolt flywheel rather than the earlier 6, so the B230 pistons fit the con rods.

 

[mike 109444]

Ref you plating. Worth a read of this guys method.

https://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/206483/1951-pontiac-chieftain?page=3

 

[W.olly]

Things are rocking here hey. been out again and got things done/started

As its not costly a si have the materials i got on with the transom. When i removed the transom plate there was a good few SS screws snapped off, so only way to fix that was to grind them back and epoxy fill them, aswell as the rest of the holes.

The transom is all good, so as few suggested an owner must of had the plate fitted to save more transom damage in the future.

So tapered out the hole and ground out the studs left behind.

Wet out the holes then used the usual Epoxy and 407 ( i think i forget now which filler )

Easy job really and chilling out job.

On the transom top gunnel where the nav light was i will be having access from the bathing deck i will be making so them holes can be filled aswell.

sorry as usual i loose a picture of it finished but you get the idea from the other, fill and fair in.

And more second time around. I am thinking an owner fitted the plate as couldnt be bothered to fettle the scratches so cover them up.

Ill finish them off tomorrow and fair back and see if more needs doing.

This thing is coming out now. I cant see the point in it really unless you have a lot of water down blow and need to drain the bilge before towing. , never had one before on any boat but a dinghy.

That will take some filling, thick transom this.

Why do the designers make things so hard to get at. This rail has fairly good access for all stanchion bolts but for one base where there just isnt any without removing the rear deck.

Before i remove it though i need to alter the wooden top as the corners stick out to far and will rub the canopy as you mite see here

So in red i can make a new section and let if follow the boat profile, or in blue make a new stanchion for the back rail to support the end and leave the corner rail open. Ill decide over time.

And to finish the day as tired i was sick of seeing the big gash in the side so as i had the sander out slapped on a 120g disc and went at it.

And after a few minutes its fine, just a bit of primer and then paint, it feathered in right good. So rest of the hull just needs a sand to prep for new paint. And the below water line is good aswell, give it a scrub and AF it.

It did go down to the GRP so a bit of high build primer will be reat.

no to bad a day really

 

[W.olly]

And today efforts in Faffers boat yard

Decision is made i will be making a new rear rail from 22mm SS, going to get one of these benders, they are good for the money and after researching them thye do a good job

VEVOR Steel Pipe Tube Bender Manual Bending Machine 10/12/14/16/19/22/25mm 7Dies 278716893005 | eBay

I need to get that made asap really before the canopy is sized up as the canopy will be touching it as before.

Now today i finished another window for fitting next week and then cracked on removing the rear deck so i can get to the tank and last rail stanchion nuts.

Getting this deck out was a reat faff about. not looking forward to putting it back in, needs to go back in soon aswell for when they size up the canopy. just be easier i think for them, and safer.

I decided to cut the corners out as they did last time

I had to drag the boat forward a few meters so i have more room at the back so as before winch post and block n tackle

Now for the tank. on doing this i see the timber crossmember is a little rotten in the middle so thats going to replaced, rest is good. the bearers unscrewed dead easy, infact no real problem today which made a change.

With out a gantry i would not be managing this on my own nowadays. It isnt as heavy as i thought aswell.

I have not measured the tank yet but it is supposed to be 60 gallon. looks about it. Just glad it is stainless steel though so no need to repalce that, just a clean up.

Left it at this stage for today. Next is to look at the bulkhead in readyness to make a new one. Instead of plywood i am thinking on a Carbon Fibre one with a weave but not yet chosen one, but i like the large weave type. This will be a foam sandwich with standard grp internal and just a carbon out skin over csm.

do like this

if not just usual plywood.

well another not bad day