Finnish shed build

[gaz1]

You must have some heavy roofs, slate, brick to mandate such large dimensions? I've seen spans like that on 4x4s and 6x6s on similar buildings and I consulted with an engineer to get the 6-8 inches I plan to aim for.

I plan to use sheet metal roofs with a big enough angle that snow won't collect on it. I do plan to add in a 2nd floor so a roof truss in the middle is possible to add later.

just becareful 6" is low for supporting your weight in the middle of that span if it has large knots in it, it will snap on you

as you might be installing rafters and also laths on top to hold your metal roof on

 

[slim_boy_fat]

asked them if they could take down a few trees for me before leaving.

Those forest harvesters are brilliant machines, watched them work in the woods around here.

 

[DennisCA]

I measured some of the logs and even the thinner ones taken from higher up went from 9 to 7 inches, the others where 10 to 8 inches. So I should at the least have myself three 8x8 beams

 

[gaz1]

simply its easier to fit a roof truss in the middle it also spreads the load that means you can use 5x2s for the beams instead

they can either go on top of the truss or inside of the truss inside needs the metal cleats used though



the middle truss supports your roof but you would need double woods at wall side to help support your middle truss

and can also be built the same as your sides unless your walking up there

easy built in frames and installed for one person to do

 

[DennisCA]

The reason I am not building with roof trusses is because you can't build your own trusses legally here, without expensive testing for certifications. This older style of construction however... But like I've said, I've seen these things built with 4x4 inch beams and they've stood up to decades of snow.

These plans are also already approved bu the municipality so I cannot change them anymore until after the final inspection (another thing, after it's done, to just add something extra).

 

[li150ss]

when i was ground working on sites, years ago,(approx 20), we always had to keep land drainage at least 1 1/2 metres away from foundation of house. we were told something to do with ground drying out and shrinking away from concrete footings.

 

[DennisCA]

I don't think I've ever hear of that. But I will be using gravel around the house so it shouldn't be able to shrink.

Here's an inspirational video for what I'll hopefully be doing in summer

 

[DennisCA]

Cleared most of the debris away to the side, now working getting these logs up into the air so they can dry out better.

Basic tools. Axe is an old Billnäs probably from the 40s or so, drawknife my grandfathers and the cant hook is homemade.

 

[gaz1]

I don't think I've ever hear of that. But I will be using gravel around the house so it shouldn't be able to shrink.

Here's an inspirational video for what I'll hopefully be doing in summer

alot of waste to be honest that way

bark stripping

watch this if you have a chainsaw

and you can view this as well

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0ZxVOfjWkY

 

[DennisCA]

It's not a waste if you are not after a round log, material simply has to come off then

Edit: Ah wait I guess you mean, the material that comes off could be whole and perhaps usable. Guess I can see that, but I'm interested in traditional methods of working. I do have a small chainsaw though and it will see some usage.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

alot of waste to be honest that way

I don't think they're short of timber in Finland

 

[gaz1]

you would lose 3x1 or 4x1 material your way that could be used elsewhere

the reference is more logs to lumber the more that log produces wood out of one log the better

you have 4 sides so 4 x extra lumber for somwhere else

 

[DennisCA]

I'm hearing they are expecting some radical price hikes for building materials in Finland, worst possible timing for me.

And my dad said last night that he's tearing the greenhouse down. It's 16 m by 100 meters long (~50 by 330 feet google says). They had another one but it was removed last year. Been standing empty since they retired. Used to grow tomatoes in one, cucumbers in the other.

Anyway he says I can get as much wood as I want from here. It's all impregnated though, most of it is 4x4 or thicker. There's probably enough 4x4 material there to allow me to replace almost every 2x4 wit a 4x4 post... Those bent beams are hella thick and quite straight for a good portion of the length. I am tempted to replace all the standing 2x4s studs with 4x4s though it'd be a deviation from the approved plans.

 

[DennisCA]

Started laying down the leca blocks now, done the first row which was tricky because I had to compensate for my concrete footer not being properly level all the way (and I was careful, but alas). Now I am starting the 2nd row and I am still having to do some compensation I am finding out.

Someone thinks the guide lines I use for lay down the blocks are meant for playing with. Had to redo it several times...

Almost finished the second row last night. My back don't like this standing bent over holding heavy things business though....

And I got this load of sand for free, it has some rocks so I have to sift it but that goes fast. I use a volume recipe for making mortar with a ratio of 1:4. Buying ready made mortar was expensive in comparison to making my own.

I will add at least a 3rd row yet. Maybe 4, it wil lmake quite a tall foundation and would look funny, but the exterior panelling can just extend over the foundation to a suitable distance. It's better for the wooden construction the higher it is from the ground level.

 

[DennisCA]

Rough hewn the first log now. Man it's a workout... developing several more calluses now, one was just a blood filled blister. I used a chain saw to make the stop cuts first, wasn't gonna do that with an axe...

 

[DennisCA]

I got three rows of LECA blocks now and I think it'll be enough height. I really don't wanna do a 4th row...

I put some render on the inside as well, got the inside done then I ran out of cement. The render is just cement and sand as well. I was told that's what you want for foundations.

No expert on applying render, but good enough for me I think. Didn't apply a very thick layer, just to cover up the structure of the leca. It's suppoed to provide water resistance and also prevent ants and stuff from getting in there. The blocks are porous and if you pour water on them it just runs through them. Yet they are said to be resistant against frost and getting damaged by water. I made my outdoor kitchen from leca and it gets rained on and then freezes out side and no problems for 4-5 years or so now I've had it.

Unsure if I should put a thicker layer on the outside, trying to find some recommendations on what to go with. Also debating if I should pigment in the render or paint over it after it's done.

Also one of these is used to cut the leca blocks, which I needed to do for the entrance, it's actually quite easy to saw them:

 

[DennisCA]

First log is hewn now

Removed the worst uneveness with an electric planer...

 

[DennisCA]

Progress has been slow, been doing other things. And I fear buying lumber to start on the walls. The foundation is pretty much done however. Render inside and outside is done and I got the slipers affixed to the foundation.

I just need to fill up with gravel outside and inside and I could start framing the walls, once I buy the lumber....

Here's 12 cubic meters of gravel to help. I wanted him to tip it into the foundation but apparently he wasn't able to, he also buried the paved corridor we made for our robot mower. Fortunately the mower was not buried.

 

[Henrik]

I really, really, like that beam! Reminds me of being a kid in the forest

Keep up the good work!

 

[DennisCA]

Ah h**l that was A LOT OF WORK ! Thankfully my SO helped with the digging. Still not entirely done but we cleared the path for Elvis at least. Inside is filled and so is the outside and I got enough left over to spread out behind to make a little work area there too.

Took a break in the day for some well deserved ice cream.