Finnish shed build

[Alex99]

Looking good man, I'm excited to see the finished build

 

[DennisCA]

I finished hewing another log, so now I have the two main load bearing beams done. I think I will do a minimum of work to the top beam, it can remain mostly round as long as I get the size relatively consistent.

Ordered a load of lumber, enough to frame the walls to start with.

Foundation is basically done I guess, I need to use the last of the gravel pile to even it up but eh... I'm so sick of shoveling gravel for a while now...

 

[DennisCA]

I've cut to length 39 pieces 2x4 (47x100mm sawn actual dimension) for the studs, they are 195 cm long or around 6'5", with the height of the foundation and the bottom and top plates factored in I should havbe a height of around 255cm (varies with the gravel floor) or around 8'4". This is the max length I could get out of a stud when cutting it into two.

Really nice to have a sliding table saw with a lot of capacity for long stock, set once and keep cutting until the studs are all the same length.

Now I have to notch the tops of all the studs because the top plate will be an L shape like this, for increased strength:

Once the walls are up I might still nail on another layer of 2x4 on top.

 

[gaz1]

looking good so far i presume your notching using the table saw as well

i would like a couple of photos of your table lifting and turning mechanism

 

[DennisCA]

Yeah I notch it on the table saw and then I rip the piece off on the bandsaw, two operations but I don't need to change any setups.

The table saw lifter is more or less a copy of this, one of the first things I built, really been a useful thing to have,

When it was new. Ideally hardwood should be used, but I had none so I tried to reinforce some bits with steel plates. Not ideal but it still works 6 years later

 

[Blobber]

Whats timber like where you are, most of the stuff we get in the UK is rubbish as soon as you cut the bands on a pack it bends like a banana!

 

[gaz1]

Whats timber like where you are, most of the stuff we get in the UK is rubbish as soon as you cut the bands on a pack it bends like a banana!

thats because alot of it is stored outside in the rain nowadays compared to the older stored in a dryish shed

went to get some 4x2 and had snow covered freezing wet wood to grab right off the stack outside

and you guess it all frozen together

 

[DennisCA]

This stuff didn't warp too badly, but over the whole lengh it was definitely twisted a bit, but not enough to matter for this purpose. Should be able to nail it straight over such a length.

 

[TechnicAl]

Whats timber like where you are, most of the stuff we get in the UK is rubbish as soon as you cut the bands on a pack it bends like a banana!

Some yards now have different grades (and prices) for straight, no knots etc etc.......

 

[DennisCA]

Picture sequence of how I notched the studs, first a cross cut on the table saw

Then a ripping operation on the band saw

And done, repeat 40 more times!

Then after all that I can start assembling the walls

Raising the 1st wall (by myself I might add)

And the 2nd wall, now it should be stable enough to let it be for a while.

And that's enough for tonight, I am really beat after working all day in this heat.

 

[gaz1]

any reason why youve spun those woods to be on the internal side instead of external side

as id thought they would be external for more strength for your apex roof to sit upon

 

[Beeezer]

Oh no

 

[DennisCA]

You know I was wondering if I should put them inside or outside, but the frame on my house and garage both when they where built have them oriented that way. So I did the same.

I figure it will not matter that much, since the force will be applied downwards over the whole width of the board regardless of orientation. All the studs should come almost directly under the poles that hold up the beams, giving full support regardless of orientation.

 

[gaz1]

its actually used on both internal and external

they use 4x1 as a structual fastening system

 

[DennisCA]

Building procedures differs a lot in this country, my house was built quite differently than this house. I have photo logs of my house and it's only internal on both garage and house. I actually have a thread on my house build from start to finish:

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/how-we-built-our-house-2013-2014-in-finland.77062/

And the last wall is up, it was the most complicated to build with the door construction. I ended up raising it the two parts separately, then putting up the long top plate to affix it into one piece. Then for the door I used two standing 2x8s for extra support, also extra studs under the 2x8s, this because the door will have two of the planned roof beams over it.

 

[gaz1]

we dont use that method or the u.s/ canada method either

we can use the twin wood method of the u.s when needing to spread the weight better but the finland method is better as spreads it better with a beam like structure from post to post

 

[DennisCA]

Last roof beam is done, this will be the top beam and it's 6x7 inches, it's the smallest, the others are 7x8". But it will have the smallest load on it.

Every log was faster to hew than the one before it. I was starting to get the proper swing and aiming accuracy more and more. Eventually I started getting the proper hewing pattern with a relatively sdmooth surface and diagonal cut lines running along the hewn face. Part of the trick was to, as I swung the axe downwards, to pull it towards me as well to create a slicing motion. And the axe needs to really sharp, like shave hair sharp.

Also I improvised a tool from some old squares to make a nice tool for checking I was maintaining the correct size on the log.

I managed to keep the final height on the top beam consistent to 1 - 2 16hs of an inch.

 

[DennisCA]

Haven't gotten that much done yet, stuck with price issues, I was planning to use massive standing beams like 5-6" square for the roof beams, but they are so damn expensive I am reconsidering. I looked at the shed my dad built 40 years ago, he used 2x4 studs instead and had a top plate the beams rest on. His beams are only like 4x4 too.

I made an alternative design in CAD from 2x4s entirely. The roof beams are also updated since I know their final dimensions now.

I designed a wooden I-beam to go under the roof beam.

Last night I cut all the parts to length and planed them on all 4 sides so I would get to work with straight lumber.

(yeah I know it's missing a guard, gonna make a pork chop one asap)

Gluing with polyurethane glue and using clamps and wood screws. I will try and glue everything with PU glue where I can on this design.

First one done, three to go.

 

[gaz1]

first off your dads build is totally different to your build

its splitting also tells me hes had issues with it as well

my advice is to fit another upright under the beam support at the rear of the structure

you should be able to fit your rafters straight onto the beams

you either bird mouth them or set the beams lower so the bird mouth sits on the front alternately you can just fit a 3x2 on the sides your choice

 

[DennisCA]

The thing splitting is not something I am going to use in my design. I am well aware his design is somewhat different, but I was only referring to how the two beams where being held up, nothing more. The beams themselves have held up fine, despite being two vs my three bigger beams, and a shed that is bigger in all dimensions than mine.