Finnish shed build

[DennisCA]

Oh he always likes to be aroudn whenevers someones doing anything.


More intermission stuff, I haven't had a lot of time going forward on this project this week. I've mostly painted the main stand a few times with polyurethane to give it better water resistance and cut up parts for the wings so I can start assembling it soon and hopefully use it over the weekend.

It's spring so we're working on gardening stuff as well as getting next years firewood ready.

On tuesday a guy dumped 2 cubic meters of dirt on our back lawn, gonna try and grow strawberries in raised beds instead of in the ground.

And I've been cutting firewood, not done until this is filled all the way up and I got another pile in the new shed I am working on. (Noticing this firewood shed is going skewed with time, literally built from scrap with two pallets for a base and sitting on some rocks)

Maybe you firewood people have heard of using a tire (or chains, straps or something else) to prevent firewood from flying when splitting it, well I thought all those solutions sounded like they could be improved on. So I used chicken wire and some pieces of wood. Works perfectly and.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

^^ Simple but effective!

 

[DAPPH]

Oh he always likes to be aroudn whenevers someones doing anything.


More intermission stuff, I haven't had a lot of time going forward on this project this week. I've mostly painted the main stand a few times with polyurethane to give it better water resistance and cut up parts for the wings so I can start assembling it soon and hopefully use it over the weekend.

It's spring so we're working on gardening stuff as well as getting next years firewood ready.

On tuesday a guy dumped 2 cubic meters of dirt on our back lawn, gonna try and grow strawberries in raised beds instead of in the ground.

And I've been cutting firewood, not done until this is filled all the way up and I got another pile in the new shed I am working on. (Noticing this firewood shed is going skewed with time, literally built from scrap with two pallets for a base and sitting on some rocks)

Maybe you firewood people have heard of using a tire (or chains, straps or something else) to prevent firewood from flying when splitting it, well I thought all those solutions sounded like they could be improved on. So I used chicken wire and some pieces of wood. Works perfectly and.

May I suggest you run your raised bed north to south so you get sun on at least two sides of the rows of strawbs.

I have some international internet friends who have made " A " frames and set them up like the apex of a roof , putting rows big end stopped UPVC gutters on each side , using a fibre soil less compost to fill the gutters and gravity drip fed nutrients.
A few more have made pipe towers with 3 D printed cups that are set inside the six foot tall 15 inch wide vertical pipes , again filled with non soil growth medium and gravity fed in nutrients .

 

[DennisCA]

The place our beds go in is already determined and also limited by our garden so it goes in the best place there is for it.

Anyway I finally got the miter station done, been a busy, busy week...

Still need to get some casters for it, some final sanding and varnishing before it's done. Casters where out of stock at my local supplier so I am improvising until further notice...

 

[DAPPH]

That cabinet could also be easily adapted to take an inverted heavy duty powerful router .

 

[DennisCA]

True but I have too little room as is. I have been thinking of removing the cast iron wing of my table saw and replace it with a plywood or MDF top with the router integrated.

 

[DAPPH]

True but I have too little room as is. I have been thinking of removing the cast iron wing of my table saw and replace it with a plywood or MDF top with the router integrated.

Put your Elu saw in the bottom of the cabinet whilst you have the router set up in the top & vice versa ????

 

[DennisCA]

Problem is the top is sunk down to account for the height of the saw.

 

[DAPPH]

Make a simple box to to fit inside the sunken recess to bring the level back to the same level as the rest , fit your router centrally in this new box so it is on a recessed flat with the surface alu or polished steel plate so it's set level with the top of the new box .
Cut a hole in the floor of the old recess to sit the router down in it if it needs it .

Put a safety stop button between the switched power socket fitted on the cabinet and the lead with the plug on for a quick hit the button safety stop .
I used a reusable cable tie to hold the trigger on my Bosch router on till I came up with a safer better idea.
Later I carefully drilled through the trigger & body missing the spring to accept an 1/8 " nylon rod ( plastic knitting needle on a nylon " grab/pull to release the pin " cord ) so the router would stay on without the zipties .

My fence was a 2 wide x1 inch length of oak with a half circle hole cut out mid way to allow the cutters to be partly shielded , the fence was clamped at each end to the table top . I always did a test cut after setting things up .......on some cheap deal , so when I routed things like beech , white ash or mahogany I didn't screw up

 

[DennisCA]

I prefer the table saw wing idea, it will also work better with my tilting router lift I built years ago. But I don't really use or care for routers much so I don't plan to do anything on that front now. I disassembled my dedicated router table years ago.

 

[DennisCA]

Last night was a gardening day.

First went to my parents and picked up the plants they planted from runners for us last year, must've been almost a hundred plants.

And some free water barrels too

Coffee break with some rhubarb crumble

My parents old greenhouse, it's gonna get torn down this year and the arches will go to someone else. The 2nd greenhouse was torn down last year, they will leave 4-5 of the arch segments nearest to have a smaller greenhouse / tractor storage.

Growing in the sand, nothing was grown in the sand for the 40 years they worked in it, they used hydroponics and grew tomatoes in rockwool, the sand was just the base.

Think these are potatoes, and wild dill is growing in random spots. My dad dropped some onions he hung to dry too and they started growing in the sand. Things seem to grow well in sand.

So we brought home some sand with us and mixed it into the top layer of the planter boxes we're putting the strawberry plants in:

All done:

Now finally I can move on to the shed again.

I got the miter station jigged up so I could make consistent cuts.

Then I just started nailing, just one nail in the center is what I chose to go with, based on what I've read, that way the lumber won't crack. Two nails say 1/3rd in from each side might hold the board flatter, but might also crack when it shrinks. There's also a gap between the boards, where a 50mm / 2" batten will cover the gap.

Keep going.

Until the lower portion's done.

 

[DennisCA]

Been going slow, but this side's done now, well until it's time for the battens

Sheet metal will be covered with boards, some gaps between them to allow ventilation.

The list or moulding or whatever to call it, doesn't go all the way, but this is because it will be trimmed later when I fit boards to cover up the corners.

I got this far and then I ran out of material, time to go buy more:

 

[arther dailey]

Last night was a gardening day.

First went to my parents and picked up the plants they planted from runners for us last year, must've been almost a hundred plants.

And some free water barrels too

Coffee break with some rhubarb crumble

My parents old greenhouse, it's gonna get torn down this year and the arches will go to someone else. The 2nd greenhouse was torn down last year, they will leave 4-5 of the arch segments nearest to have a smaller greenhouse / tractor storage.

Growing in the sand, nothing was grown in the sand for the 40 years they worked in it, they used hydroponics and grew tomatoes in rockwool, the sand was just the base.

Think these are potatoes, and wild dill is growing in random spots. My dad dropped some onions he hung to dry too and they started growing in the sand. Things seem to grow well in sand.

So we brought home some sand with us and mixed it into the top layer of the planter boxes we're putting the strawberry plants in:

All done:

Now finally I can move on to the shed again.

I got the miter station jigged up so I could make consistent cuts.

Then I just started nailing, just one nail in the center is what I chose to go with, based on what I've read, that way the lumber won't crack. Two nails say 1/3rd in from each side might hold the board flatter, but might also crack when it shrinks. There's also a gap between the boards, where a 50mm / 2" batten will cover the gap.

Keep going.

Until the lower portion's done.

see your parents have good taste in tractors

 

[DennisCA]

Progress has been.. "progressing", but I feel it's slowed down compared to what I expected to have accomplished. I have been doing a lot of other things however and got other things left to do. For one, I tore down a wall in my shop, made it a lot airier. The main reason was to optimize the space I got after moving out a lot of the stuff into the shed. And now I got the wall space to put in an air heat pump. No more direct electric heating for me.

Everything is kinda messy right now, a lot of things will need to go elsewhere. I am planning to build even more shelves for that, it should be fine. Shelves and hooks and stuff to hang cables and stuff from for the welders.

Anyway back to the shed. I have gotten a modest amount of shelving up and I also moved the old shelf that used to be in the shop over here, no point tossing it away. Looks flimsy but it used to hold a helluva lot of stff.

I got the boards up to cover the underside of the roof in the front

Then I had to pull a **** load of boards on this wall because when I looked at it from afar I saw they where not plumb. I pulled them, removed the nails and put every board back with a water level. I kept pulilng boards after this pic was taken, probably redid 80% of the wall.

Then I started covering up the corners. I dunno what you call these in english:

Back wall mostly done, before the boards ran out. Bur I got the last batch today and it should last me to fix all that needs doing. I am just missing the battens now.

I need to cut off the beams that stick out before I can proceed, I used a sawzall on the front side but the blade was ****ty and wore out so I have ordered new blades, they got here today and are hopfully better quality. They have similar tooths as old timey tree felling saws, the type used by two people.

Last night my SO came home with a pool so I had to spend time to assemble that too:

We got a better filtration system though, the ones that come with these cheap pools are like 10x undersized for the task.

I will be going looking for paint today, it's best to paint the boards before nailing the battens in place, they will shrink and that means you can have small gaps of no paint if you paint it after you nailed up the battens.

 

[DennisCA]

The miter station has been invaluable, but since it's MDF (sure treated with polyurethane tho) if it starts to rain I have to pull it inside and it has rained a lot recently...

But it's been real handy for this kind of work and it's so fast to set angles.

I developed a new procedure for cutting the boards for the upper part of the gable wall. When I did the front I went back and forth with a measuring tape and it took forever! This time I laid the previous board down and put a spacer between the next board and extended the cut line to the new board. This way I could cut a bunch of boards and just go and nail them up.

Going a lot faster

Done in a few hours. Took me two days to do the front...

I've started doing some decorative stuff now, covering all the corners and finishing the door opening. I will be redoing the top list, it can't just be nailed on the front like this. Plain mistake on my part. I will be fitting sheet metal instead and I will rout, or use a circular saw, to cut a small slot to insert the metal into, in order to prevent water ingress behind the nailed on drip board.

I am having some problems deciding how to handle the "underside" of the roof, the sides that is. I first thought I would leave the beams exposed and I tried doing that but the results where not pretty in real life, because the beams are live edged in a lot of places, so it's not possible to achieve an aesthetically pleasing result. After lots of tries I decided to simply board it over like on my house and garage.

Put the boards in place and then added trim

I'm still not pleased with the result. Like this, there is an interruption in the lower line of the roof and at a distance it looks wrong when you look at it from the side. I am redoing this to fix that. I am winging this part so there's some experimentation going on.

 

[Onoff]

Everything is kinda messy right now

Your understanding of "messy" is clearly a bit different to mine!

Is "messy" the Finnish word for "looks like you could eat your dinner off of that floor?"

 

[gaz1]

the easiest way to create a drip edge is to pack out the top and move over the wood trims that youve fitted already


just by removing that first piece left and fitting the next piece so its over your wood normally done when fitting them

this would give you a good drip edge without the need to trim along its whole length

in your case its one method or the other, the other being take all them off shift the woods over by one board then refit back on again but you would need to pack out the top to the same level as the wood drip below where your ladder is resting upon

 

[DennisCA]

I'm not sure I understand what you're referring to. The long drip edge that the ladder touches is properly installed. Or do you mean where the wall meets the roof on the gable wall? That's done on purpose there, I want a trim piece there for the old school look. I walked around Kristinestad while at the market and checked out all the old buildings, that town is like a museum.

The part I didn't care for was on the side of roof. I tried to make a picture to show it.

I already tested it and it looks better imo.

 

[gaz1]

we would just use long fasia boards for the side and front edge

a trim back and make it straight for guttering to fasten to it on the sides

for the front gable the roofs have is doubled up so it looks like a beam and fasia boards are just fastened to them

or built like this

Framing Eaves and Rakes

John Carroll demystifies the steps needed to create a good overhang that protects the building and provides solid nailing for the finish materials.

www.jlconline.com

which means you have something to fasten too with the fasia board

the soffit area dosnt have to be flat it can be slopped like yours makes no difference really

note i was meaning over your door opening area or more to the point the apex areas where you can overlap the board ends

 

[DennisCA]

The problem in my case is that the sheet metal I got for my roof was a bit "tightly" sized since I apparently got some variations in real life from the plans, so the sheet metal overhang is minimal. I've been resistant to add a board there, which granted would've been the easiest way. If I could get some thinner sawn boards like 12-15mm perhaps it would work.

It might be possible to use a regular 22mm board too if I add a sheet metal drip board under the sheet metal roof, that would protect the boards from excessive drippage.