Finnish shed build

[DennisCA]

Yeah the higher up from the ground the wooden parts start the better, I was told to aim for 30cm or more. But also what is behind the wall boards, do you have an air gap so air can circulate behind the facade? That helps to dry out the wall boards at least.

I've had good success with pine tar on outdoor stuff that's near the ground otherwise.

 

[gaz1]

Fiance just sent this picture. Got the roof materials and sheet materials for the walls. I am in a hurry to get everything up because the material is developing black mold. I am wondering if I need to prioritize the roof or the walls.

The plastic is keeping the inside relatively dry but I have no eaves for the gables so they are still exposed and get wet. So I could put on the roof first and the gables would be better protected. Or I put up the walls first, they are water proof bitumen impregnated sheets so they would also protect the walls from rain and splashing.

I want to treat the structure where with mold killer, preferrably something that soaks into the wood and prevents it coming back. Fir is better than pine at resisting mold, but I got pine. I am not sure what to use, there is copper sulfate, iron vitriol (used on wooden paneling a lot here) and commercial solutions, pine tar also kills mold well, but it makes the surface sticky until it dries, which at this time of year is never. There are also some silicate based stuff.

I suppose if I want to clean off the existing mold I should go for the roof first so I can scrub it with mold cleaning agent.

like ive already said id be looking at getting the building water tight

so you have to decide on

do you do a temporary water tight structure 2x1 with plastic wrap greenhouse canopy

so you can treat the wood and therefore wait for it to dry or do you use a wood stove to dry it out quicker

youve noted me for saying rocket stove but it has its uses as you can recycle the air so it drys out more but its also cheap for burning wood

as goes for eaves id probably fit the plastic onto them

back to the greenhouse canopy if you build it a certain way you will get 2 uses out of it one as a waterproofer and then you can take it down spin it around and fit it straight onto the building sides

 

[DennisCA]

Well clearly I am working on getting it water tight, getting the roof on gets it nearer that, but so does getting the sheeting up on the walls. And when both roof and sheeting are up, it'll be water tight.

 

[AndersK]

You are just one day from having the roof covered so that would be my priority.
Then you'll have a dry place to work in and store supplies

 

[colnerov]

Hi, Yes, roof first then the side that faces the prevailing wind and rain and then onto the others.

Colin

 

[gaz1]

Well clearly I am working on getting it water tight, getting the roof on gets it nearer that, but so does getting the sheeting up on the walls. And when both roof and sheeting are up, it'll be water tight.

i see your point of view its wet wood you want to treat it

we are roughly the same here the wood maybe treated but its soaking wet and sometimes frozen together its that bad

but if you faff and the weather is coming in fast and us outside workers know that

no offense here but your roof is water tight within reason its called move on get the walls done sealed or treated then get them boarded up as goes for apex use temporary stuff on them

we have to do when fitting and building dormers/roofs but we do try to get things water tight from the start saves on other things later

so yes you can do as the others say but those walls are gonna get wetter if you fit the roof the apex is gonna leak like a git and wet your frame even more

 

[gaz1]

pics as a point

done in a day



dinner time pic stone slates off the roof and it rained still built in a day then covered for the night

 

[DennisCA]

i see your point of view its wet wood you want to treat it

we are roughly the same here the wood maybe treated but its soaking wet and sometimes frozen together its that bad

but if you faff and the weather is coming in fast and us outside workers know that

no offense here but your roof is water tight within reason its called move on get the walls done sealed or treated then get them boarded up as goes for apex use temporary stuff on them

we have to do when fitting and building dormers/roofs but we do try to get things water tight from the start saves on other things later

so yes you can do as the others say but those walls are gonna get wetter if you fit the roof the apex is gonna leak like a git and wet your frame even more

I'm having problems parsing what you think I ought to do.

Are you saying fit the walls first so they don't get wetter?

I don't understand what you mean to when you say apex or why the roof would leak after it's fitted?

 

[AndersK]

Me neither, you have the metal profiles to seal the apex so it will be watertight.

 

[DennisCA]

Yes "nockplåten" as we'd call it.

Also I finished the eaves now and I will be proceeding ASAP to putting up the roof, then if I am skilled/lucky enough to get it done fast I'll go right ahead and fit the wall sheeting. Gonna be a busy weekend...

I also have a rocket stove, maybe I'll see if I can use it in the shed afterwards, it has no chimney though.

Now I gotta eat or I'll fall off the roof....

 

[AndersK]

then if I am skilled/lucky enough

Looking at your woodworking I'm sure luck has nothing to do with it.

These kind of roofs are quite easy. Just make sure you have a good perpendicular reference when laying the first sheet and the others will be done fast.

 

[gaz1]

what im saying is you try and get everything done as quick as possible

your intention is not to soak the wood due to bad weather ( rain )

so the quickest way is to build wood frame get roof wood frame on
then fit membraine on the roof ( your water tight ) then start fitting it onto the sides including the apex eaves points
then the building is water tight then it can dry out as you do other stuff
fit the metal roof on, sort your wiring out lights and sockets, insulate your roof
whilst your doing those on a house build your frame is drying out

once you fit the tyvek down onto the roof, the roof is water tight within reason allowing you to move onto the walls and get them sealed up

the reason why we fit osb sheets first before the tyvek is to make it water proof fast and then fit the tyvek onto the osb boards

the added advantage in doing so it makes the structure stronger instead of just 4x2/5x2 framing

 

[DennisCA]

I see, well I am using these sheets instead of the plastic wrapping, they do more or less the same thing and they are water resistant like the plastic. But I just put all the sheet metal on the roof. I mean it was on top of the sheets, instead of moving everything about I just put them up. Still need to fix the apex covering.

 

[DennisCA]

I started putting up the sheeting today, can't really proceed with the ridge plate just yet so I might as well do this.

Didn't get everything up but most of it. I will be laying a puzzle with the smaller bits for the stuff high up later on. Ideally you should use as large sheets as possible, but it's not an ideal situation I am working from. At least now I think the structure is decently protected, within a day or so I should have it completed.

 

[DennisCA]

Progress slowed down a lot because I had to wait for the new ridge plate to be made. I also made a ladder that hooks over the ridge, which I used to get up there and screw it in place.

A few screws left and the roof is done, but I have to move the whole scaffold so I can reach it safely.

 

[DennisCA]

Progress again after winter! Finally got some facade boards, 200 meters of mixee 125x22mm and 150x22mm. That's 5 and 6 inch wide boards by 7/8". It's not enough but what I was able to get at the local sawmill, 1€/m.

Good thing I bought a trailer. And yes it's well balanced, removed the trailer from the car and with a little force I was able to balance it with one hand.

Unloaded, this weekend I'll start putting them up.

I will be mixing 125 and 150 widths randomly for a more living appearance. That's how they used to do it, boards placed vertically with a rib covering the joins. This is called a "lockläkt" facade, some examples:

I wil be using a matching color to my other buildings though.

 

[DennisCA]

Doing a slight detour... Since I have a lot of cross cutting and mitering to be doing, I am gonna build a station for this saw I bought a while ago:

I bought a sheet of MDF last night (plywood is really too expensive right now) and started on the build, not really working to any plans here, I am just going after what I saw on the net and working towards something similar.

Folding wings will be added after this.

Wheels will be added later and I will soak the whole thing in polyurethane varnish and oil to make it more water resistant and durable. I am not sure what to think of MDF, I hate the dust (always wear a respirator) and it's a lot heavier than plywood and sensitive to bumps, but it's also dimensionally straight & square, doesn't bend or warp when cut, makes things easier to assemble and in that regard it's pleasant to work with.

 

[Blobber]

I dont mind MDF, I prefer the moisture resistant stuff though which seems a lot more stable long term

 

[slim_boy_fat]

@DennisCA That cat in pic 2 looks singularly unimpressed

 

[colnerov]

@DennisCA That cat in pic 2 looks singularly unimpressed

Yes, he's thinking "Why am I guarding this?"