First for me and brand new ( to me :) ) WW2 ships Lathe.

[gaz1]

Oooo i like the idea of that, to have an excuse to buy a milling machine now or gear cutter thingy what ever is best for gear cutting. a Shaper even

look up homemade gear cutter

it uses your own gears to cut more gears

 

[MattF]

Where did you find that, trying to search for it but no luck yet. Trying to work out how it works and used etc.

It's in Sparey's book: The Amateur's Lathe. It uses the lathes own changewheels.

 

[MattF]

I think i have decided ( i say think as my mind is one of many and likely to change ) is to fit the motor to the stand by making a frame to go over the Gear box as i dont want to drill into the lathe gear box itself for bolting frame work to it.

Wise choice.

 

[gaz1]

 

[W.olly]

W.olly.....
not sure but need a couple of photo's from the back (gear end) and the actual back of the machine.....
have a susp that it has a reverse direction....subject to the gear placement....
Is there not a Union Werk AG owners club.....obv in Germany.......
I know they are as crazy as us for old machinery.....
I long time ago I got to know an old German engineer in S Africa......we kinda lost touch but will try to find him....
Glad it's got a new home...
how do get on with condensation in that concrete work shop....?
I lived in a converted Water Mill.....everywhere was damp......
every machine got a Curley whirley 11watt bulb in a mains handlamp, on 24x7,under old blankets and duvets over the winter
to keep em dry....worked very well.....
can u still by those bulbs anymore.....?

Pics of the guts for you

Give a clean over and looking good, only found one slight bit of damage to the cross slide. rest is spot on

 

[W.olly]

Nice one Wolly.

Can we get a close-up of the cross slide and compound dials. I'm interested to see if it's meant to be a native inch or metric machine.

Not much to go off here kida. The tailstock has no markings at all on

This is the only damage i found on it not complaints for its age.

 

[Pete.]

Despite it's German data plates and claimed metric spindle thread I reckon that's an imperial machine. Probably re-approriated during the war. The 100-division cross slide dial is typical for 10TPI. Give it ten turns and measure how far the cross slide travels odds on it's exactly an inch.

 

[W.olly]

Despite it's German data plates and claimed metric spindle thread I reckon that's an imperial machine. Probably re-approriated during the war. The 100-division cross slide dial is typical for 10TPI. Give it ten turns and measure how far the cross slide travels odds on it's exactly an inch.

yep bob on an inch for 10 turns

If i can i would like to make or buy maybe a division scale for the tailstock,

How much oil and what oil should i add to the `sump` ? i want to give it a service, also the oil feeders

 

[Agroshield]

Despite it's German data plates and claimed metric spindle thread I reckon that's an imperial machine.

There have been a couple of interesting links appeared from his posting over on Model Engineer.

Drehmaschine UNION-WERK A.-G. - Zerspanungsbude

Neuzugang Union-Werk A-G. Mittweida - Zerspanungsbude

In both of those threads, the screwcutting charts for the (gearbox) machines are shown and it is clear that they are both native imperial - they show use of a 40/127 gear to obtain the metric threads.

Another pointer for the machine here under discussion would be to count the teeth on the big gear on the leadscrew. If it is 127t, that points to native imperial. It is difficult to use a 127t in a (native) metric to imperial conversion as it is physically big and has to be a driver gear rather than a driven gear.

 

[DAPPH]

W.olly.....
not sure but need a couple of photo's from the back (gear end) and the actual back of the machine.....
have a susp that it has a reverse direction....subject to the gear placement....
Is there not a Union Werk AG owners club.....obv in Germany.......
I know they are as crazy as us for old machinery.....
I long time ago I got to know an old German engineer in S Africa......we kinda lost touch but will try to find him....
Glad it's got a new home...
how do get on with condensation in that concrete work shop....?
I lived in a converted Water Mill.....everywhere was damp......
every machine got a Curley whirley 11watt bulb in a mains handlamp, on 24x7,under old blankets and duvets over the winter
to keep em dry....worked very well.....
can u still by those bulbs anymore.....?

I've had to resort to the 10 watt ceramic black heat vivarium heater screw in bulbs in over head baton holders for some things such as keeping my neck & hands warm whilst I'm playing at the vice or lathe and simple 7watt LED pearl pear shaped style shaped bulbs in pairs wired in parallel as background drying heat

 

[DAPPH]

Despite it's German data plates and claimed metric spindle thread I reckon that's an imperial machine. Probably re-approriated during the war. The 100-division cross slide dial is typical for 10TPI. Give it ten turns and measure how far the cross slide travels odds on it's exactly an inch.

I worked on German ammunition boxes /crates elevators and other antistatic loading equipment back in the 1970's in a former WW2German ammo depot , it was all imperial measurements & BSF & BSF threads made in Germany in 1938 by the Panzer factories .

 

[Pete.]

I worked on German ammunition boxes /crates elevators and other antistatic loading equipment back in the 1970's in a former WW2German ammo depot , it was all imperial measurements & BSF & BSF threads made in Germany in 1938 by the Panzer factories .

Very interesting. Cheers Dapph

 

[W.olly]

There have been a couple of interesting links appeared from his posting over on Model Engineer.

Drehmaschine UNION-WERK A.-G. - Zerspanungsbude

Neuzugang Union-Werk A-G. Mittweida - Zerspanungsbude

In both of those threads, the screwcutting charts for the (gearbox) machines are shown and it is clear that they are both native imperial - they show use of a 40/127 gear to obtain the metric threads.

Another pointer for the machine here under discussion would be to count the teeth on the big gear on the leadscrew. If it is 127t, that points to native imperial. It is difficult to use a 127t in a (native) metric to imperial conversion as it is physically big and has to be a driver gear rather than a driven gear.

just counted the big leadscrew cog and its 127t. Is that bad then ?

Maybe make new gears for metric then ?

 

[W.olly]

I've had to resort to the 10 watt ceramic black heat vivarium heater screw in bulbs in over head baton holders for some things such as keeping my neck & hands warm whilst I'm playing at the vice or lathe and simple 7watt LED pearl pear shaped style shaped bulbs in pairs wired in parallel as background drying heat

i b;lame this on you ha ha, just been out in the workshop. the lathe and flypress all damp. first time that has happened. I want to fully insulate it, can also heat it if need be but refuse to pay the stupid plywood prices so it will have to wait

 

[Agroshield]

just counted the big leadscrew cog and its 127t. Is that bad then ?

Maybe make new gears for metric then ?

Gosh, no. It is very good.

As the leadscrew of the machine is imperial, you will not need to use that gear for imperial threads. You will need it for metric threads.

If there is any, very minor, disadvantage to the way the machine is, it is that it is slightly slower to cut metric threads because you have to keep the half nuts closed. If any threading you might do in the future is mainly metric, it would be very wise (i.e. almost compulsory) to make the motor reversible.

Right now, the machine looks set up to cut quite fine pitch metric threads. You have a small gear at the top driving a bigger gear, then this reduction repeats twice more.

When you get a chance, please measure the leadscrew pitch (use an imperial rule and count over ten thread pitches) and report it here. You could also do what you have done with the cross slide and rotate the leadscrew ten times with the half nuts engaged and see how far the carriage moves.

Also count the teeth on all the gears you have and jot it down here and we can make you a threading chart for it.

Finally, measure the outside diameter of a gear with an even number of teeth and we can tell you the gear spec. in case any important ones are missing.

 

[Pete.]

Can you put up a good straight-on pic of the threading change wheel plate Wolly. That should tell a lot about the setup.

 

[W.olly]

Gosh, no. It is very good.

As the leadscrew of the machine is imperial, you will not need to use that gear for imperial threads. You will need it for metric threads.

If there is any, very minor, disadvantage to the way the machine is, it is that it is slightly slower to cut metric threads because you have to keep the half nuts closed. If any threading you might do in the future is mainly metric, it would be very wise (i.e. almost compulsory) to make the motor reversible.

Right now, the machine looks set up to cut quite fine pitch metric threads. You have a small gear at the top driving a bigger gear, then this reduction repeats twice more.

When you get a chance, please measure the leadscrew pitch (use an imperial rule and count over ten thread pitches) and report it here. You could also do what you have done with the cross slide and rotate the leadscrew ten times with the half nuts engaged and see how far the carriage moves.

Also count the teeth on all the gears you have and jot it down here and we can make you a threading chart for it.

Finally, measure the outside diameter of a gear with an even number of teeth and we can tell you the gear spec. in case any important ones are missing.

i did worry a little then lol. thought i cold not do metric threads then. I have a lot to learn here.

I will get which ever specs are needed. I did measure that the lead screw on one rev moves 6 threads on the lead screw to give 1.25" of movement.

Can you put up a good straight-on pic of the threading change wheel plate Wolly. That should tell a lot about the setup.

these you mean kida

 

[Pete.]

The plate that has all the numbers on it "Gewindeschniede Tabelle".

 

[RichardM]

For tailstock depth gauge what about cutting up a cheap digital caliper?

 

[W.olly]

The plate that has all the numbers on it "Gewindeschniede Tabelle".

ok ok i knew what you meant really