First for me and brand new ( to me :) ) WW2 ships Lathe.

[Milkybars]

If there is any, very minor, disadvantage to the way the machine is, it is that it is slightly slower to cut metric threads because you have to keep the half nuts closed. If any threading you might do in the future is mainly metric, it would be very wise (i.e. almost compulsory) to make the motor reversible.

Is this a screw on chuck with no other fixing ??

 

[Pete.]

Ok so 4TPI leadscrew and it looks likely you have a full set of change gears. According to that chart you should have all the ones listed under 'vorhadene rader':

20 x2
40
50 x2
55
57
60
65
70
80
90
100
127

 

[W.olly]

Is this a screw on chuck with no other fixing ??

it is yes, chuck threads on clockwise.

EDIT to say, i cant see anyway to secure it on.

 

[W.olly]

Ok so 4TPI leadscrew and it looks likely you have a full set of change gears. According to that chart you should have all the ones listed under 'vorhadene rader':

20 x2
40
50 x2
55
57
60
65
70
80
90
100
127

I have NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO idea what all that means lol. but sounds good

 

[Pete.]

What it means is if you check and you have all of those gears listed (including all the ones in the box and those on the machine) then you can cut any thread that's on the chart, metric or imperial.

 

[W.olly]

What it means is if you check and you have all of those gears listed (including all the ones in the box and those on the machine) then you can cut any thread that's on the chart, metric or imperial.

i will check all the gears this week then. that would be excellent, gets better hey. i have done a little thread cutting but that was about 30 years ago lol. and then it was prob set up for me.

I so want to have ago but need to sort a cabinet out now and frame for the new motor and VRF.

 

[DAPPH]

i b;lame this on you ha ha, just been out in the workshop. the lathe and flypress all damp. first time that has happened. I want to fully insulate it, can also heat it if need be but refuse to pay the stupid plywood prices so it will have to wait

Spending 40 quid or so on floor sealer and another £27 or so on a tin of fibre reinforced sealing , paint on mastic to ensure a 9 inch sealed water proof band along the wall bottoms helps prevent moisture evaporating off the floor slab and condensing on a cold roof . I've also put in a louvered 4 " waste pipelined hole in the back wall of the garage with a sheet of 50 mm clear wriggly plastic over it to prevent rain /snow being blown in by a strong north wind ..set in at about t 6 feet up from the floor to allow plenty of drying air movement.
I also got rid of the wriggly tin roof and had three 8 mtr spans of Kingspan steel sheets of plastic covered foam sandwich ( plus capping's & finishing strips ) suddenly no more condensation and very little rust on any bare metal even thought It chucked it down in stair rods for a few hours and flooded the floor to a depth of 2 inches of rain & run off water . ( discovered at the back of the garage when it rained hard water ran down the hill along the fence line and up above the floor slab of the garage ..over the 40 years its been built it had seeped in killed some mortar joints and finally came in like a running tap till I sorted it out with a 4 in perforated land drain to remove any water away out the area to run off down the hill else where.

Finding that " Mister Nearly the P/O " had drilled numerous 1/2" holes through the 6 inch floor slab to try and drain off the water didn't help . Every time it rained hard a few hours later when the rain had soaked in heading towards the shallow water table on the hillside I found I had dozen or so mini water springs appear inside the garage .
Putting ply on a wet wall lends itself to absorbing moisture and mould.

At another place where we lived my old single skin brick garage was damp to say the least . I got a load of 35x45 CLS and two rolls of tar paper . Glue gunned the tar paper to the wood collar & a few other places to get it all round the walls then made up an internal frame of the CLS screwed it with stainless steel screws into brick ends where possible . Then ran in the power cables for 15 double gang switched flush wall sockets , then filled the void with carefully cut fibre glass roll ... tied in place with button thread and drawing pins then screwed on heavy foil back plaster board .

Making sure I had an accurate to the mm plan of where the screw centres in CLS/ plaster board were so later on I could fit shelves & a few backing boards where needed .
Gave it a roller coat of plaster type finish gunge , put a foot of roof void insulation in above more foil backed plaster board & did a plastic bag finger scroll Aertex on it once the three x four tube light units were put in place . Sealed the flor with black rubberised bitumen & put a 40 mm screed or water resisting mortar on the floor , when well dry put I some spare laminate flooring on it .

Painter it in light pink ( daughter & wife's request ) and added painted skirting boards.

Got rid of the up & over door and put in an obscure glass double dg door unit with one door a metre wide , a small door that was usually kept bolted closed and a glass panel window. At the other end a second hand non opening glass picture window to replace the removed garage side door.

It was amazing , the 12 x 30 watt strip light tubes alone gave enough heat most of the time , add in a 90 watt or so computer & it was quite toasty even when there was snow on the ground for a couple of weeks .

 

[Brad93]

For tailstock depth gauge what about cutting up a cheap digital caliper?

MDRO do a much simpler solution for not much money.

 

[W.olly]

Spending 40 quid or so on floor sealer and another £27 or so on a tin of fibre reinforced sealing , paint on mastic to ensure a 9 inch sealed water proof band along the wall bottoms helps prevent moisture evaporating off the floor slab and condensing on a cold roof . I've also put in a louvered 4 " waste pipelined hole in the back wall of the garage with a sheet of 50 mm clear wriggly plastic over it to prevent rain /snow being blown in by a strong north wind ..set in at about t 6 feet up from the floor to allow plenty of drying air movement.
I also got rid of the wriggly tin roof and had three 8 mtr spans of Kingspan steel sheets of plastic covered foam sandwich ( plus capping's & finishing strips ) suddenly no more condensation and very little rust on any bare metal even thought It chucked it down in stair rods for a few hours and flooded the floor to a depth of 2 inches of rain & run off water . ( discovered at the back of the garage when it rained hard water ran down the hill along the fence line and up above the floor slab of the garage ..over the 40 years its been built it had seeped in killed some mortar joints and finally came in like a running tap till I sorted it out with a 4 in perforated land drain to remove any water away out the area to run off down the hill else where.

Finding that " Mister Nearly the P/O " had drilled numerous 1/2" holes through the 6 inch floor slab to try and drain off the water didn't help . Every time it rained hard a few hours later when the rain had soaked in heading towards the shallow water table on the hillside I found I had dozen or so mini water springs appear inside the garage .
Putting ply on a wet wall lends itself to absorbing moisture and mould.

At another place where we lived my old single skin brick garage was damp to say the least . I got a load of 35x45 CLS and two rolls of tar paper . Glue gunned the tar paper to the wood collar & a few other places to get it all round the walls then made up an internal frame of the CLS screwed it with stainless steel screws into brick ends where possible . Then ran in the power cables for 15 double gang switched flush wall sockets , then filled the void with carefully cut fibre glass roll ... tied in place with button thread and drawing pins then screwed on heavy foil back plaster board .

Making sure I had an accurate to the mm plan of where the screw centres in CLS/ plaster board were so later on I could fit shelves & a few backing boards where needed .
Gave it a roller coat of plaster type finish gunge , put a foot of roof void insulation in above more foil backed plaster board & did a plastic bag finger scroll Aertex on it once the three x four tube light units were put in place . Sealed the flor with black rubberised bitumen & put a 40 mm screed or water resisting mortar on the floor , when well dry put I some spare laminate flooring on it .

Painter it in light pink ( daughter & wife's request ) and added painted skirting boards.

Got rid of the up & over door and put in an obscure glass double dg door unit with one door a metre wide , a small door that was usually kept bolted closed and a glass panel window. At the other end a second hand non opening glass picture window to replace the removed garage side door.

It was amazing , the 12 x 30 watt strip light tubes alone gave enough heat most of the time , add in a 90 watt or so computer & it was quite toasty even when there was snow on the ground for a couple of weeks .

well i am just glad this place is not as bad as any of yours, that would do my head in. This new roof is the same as your yours in being the foam composite boards. i just need to insulate the concrete wall side asap.

 

[Agroshield]

The thread chart is interesting as the left column of the metric section lists the major diameter that is associated with the pitch adjacent to it.

Also, the 57t gear (19 x 3) shows it was destined for a BSP-speaking market rather than an NPT one (which would need a multiple of 23).

 

[Pete.]

Also, the 57t gear (19 x 3) shows it was destined for a BSP-speaking market rather than an NPT one (which would need a multiple of 23).

I noted that in the original thread now deleted from eBay spots.

 

[Munkul]

Please don't butcher the looks of the thing with one of those daft tailstock digital calipers!

Anything so accurate that needs measured on a tailstock job you can count revolutions and use an indicator for the last little bit... rare that you'll ever need accuracy on tailstock though!
A DRO would make life easier, but again, depends if you want the machine to look retro, or if you intend to really use it.

The suggestion to "make new gears for it straightaway in case you break the old ones" is particularly defeatist. May as well make an entire new lathe in case any part of it breaks... WTF

Apart from that... looks cool, now get on and use it Having all the changewheels is particularly handy!

 

[Pete.]

I might not be popular for saying it but I would definitely be putting effort into a clean and paint job for that lathe. Yes, it's got history but IMO none of that is reflected in the paint work and having a lick of paint now might be the difference between it getti g scrapped in the future and going for another 30 years. It's wouldn't be sacrilege for me to give it a good tidy up. Fresh paint also holds less dirt and grit than a rough finish.

 

[W.olly]

I might not be popular for saying it but I would definitely be putting effort into a clean and paint job for that lathe. Yes, it's got history but IMO none of that is reflected in the paint work and having a lick of paint now might be the difference between it getti g scrapped in the future and going for another 30 years. It's wouldn't be sacrilege for me to give it a good tidy up. Fresh paint also holds less dirt and grit than a rough finish.

To tell the truth when I was cleaning up a bit the other day I was thinking if it would be worth a strip down of the slides etc and clean them up etc. Just to see if they need it and help it last another 70 years.

 

[RichardM]

Just to put a bit more pressure on, I agree with @Pete. strip it down and give it a good clean and a lick of Kriegsmarine (may even have been Reichsmarine) Grey.

 

[W.olly]

Ok so 4TPI leadscrew and it looks likely you have a full set of change gears. According to that chart you should have all the ones listed under 'vorhadene rader':

20 x2
40
50 x2
55
57
60
65
70
80
90
100
127

What it means is if you check and you have all of those gears listed (including all the ones in the box and those on the machine) then you can cut any thread that's on the chart, metric or imperial.

got these gears Pete

25

40 with 2 off

42

45

46

50

55

64

70

76

100

plus whats on the lathe now, so looks like a full set ??



I turned the lead screw 10x and the bed moved 2.5" or near as dam but for 8 thou

 

[DAPPH]

Afore I did any adjusting or stripping I used several big WD 40 spray cans with the flexi nozzle tube & some green Scotchbrite pads cut in 1/4's to soak solidified crud over a couple of days at a time to thoroughly clean all crud from the ways tops, insides , underside lips . Amazing results everything slid about with very little effort .

I then took the tight sticky tail stock to task , stripping it whilst on the lathe greasing it with a castor oil based grease and then removing it to clean the gib and underside tracks on it with a graphite based re greased . Next was the chuck I used a big 3/4 AF Allen key tightened up in the chuck and tapped it free , stripped & cleaned it of years of bits of small bits of brass , phosphor bronze , alu ,steel , plastic and copper & lightly it so I only needed a gentle pressure to turn the chuck key , prior to that it was a two hand job .
That not only got things free and clean it gave me the opportunity to learn more about the ca 1943 lathe
It was only after that that I stripped out all the gibs and used a small nylon tube brush to clean them out , lubed them and reset them .
Next thing months later was the headstock removal and bearings clean .

 

[Milkybars]

DO not use WD40 if you are going to paint

 

[fizzy]

DO not use WD40 if you are going to paint

It's no different to any other mineral oil.
You just have to degrease it properly which is normal anyway.

 

[fizzy]

And what a wonderful buy.
See I know how to pick them
Just glad it's gone to a good home even if it's parentage is suspect