Specialist insurers with an engineers report / IVA proof. Otherwise they pay as required under the RTA, then chase you for recompense when they work out they can wriggle out. Same as kit cars - modified vehicles need the same checks and documentation. Easy enough to do. New MOT requirements make it harder to evade now.
- Thread starter Jaffman
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It's going to be interesting to watch you fill that up at the pumps.
No different to me filling up the lightweight Land Rover, fuel tanks were under the front seats so had to bring the nozzle through driver or passenger door depending on which tank I was filling
slim_boy_fat
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Ahhh, but that was back in the Dark Ages....
Subframe mounts are welded into the car and therefor this is the final location lol.
Gives me a nice height in the car although I can lift it if I need to which I may do up front
The rear strutt is a little close to the tyre though lol... may have to do something about that.
really struggled welding to the old car in some places so in certain places it ain’t pretty but it’s strong and functional so we will have to see how it copes under power brakes and turning
Gives me a nice height in the car although I can lift it if I need to which I may do up front
The rear strutt is a little close to the tyre though lol... may have to do something about that.
really struggled welding to the old car in some places so in certain places it ain’t pretty but it’s strong and functional so we will have to see how it copes under power brakes and turning
this took forever. The subframe has been in an out easily 20 times. Maybe even 50.
This truly is a monumental task.
mots almost perfectly aligned though. I think it’s slightly right by 2mm and it’s bang on in relation to front/back spacing
Climber
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You can't say that on a forum where engineers lurk. I was brought up to think that anything more than 10 thou out is scrap, not matter what you are doing.
You can't say that on a forum where engineers lurk. I was brought up to think that anything more than 10 thou out is scrap, not matter what you are doing.
It’s too late now - but I would have urged anyone to come and fix it for me when I was trying to position it lol.
my excuse is “it can be taken up by the bushes”
Climber
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I can imagine. It's one of those kind of jobs that makes you wonder why you started in the first place isn't it.It’s too late now - but I would have urged anyone to come and fix it for me when I was trying to position it lol.
my excuse is “it can be taken up by the bushes”
8ob
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You can't say that on a forum where engineers lurk. I was brought up to think that anything more than 10 thou out is scrap, not matter what you are doing.
With the monster under that bonnet I was kind of hoping there was going to be a bit of tech involved when the back end went in, some funny things can happen with a bit of rear caster, no anti squat, axle/subframe tramp and wheel hop under braking. Ask me how I know
Bob
With the monster under that bonnet I was kind of hoping there was going to be a bit of tech involved when the back end went in, some funny things can happen with a bit of rear caster, no anti squat, axle/subframe tramp and wheel hop under braking. Ask me how I know
Bob
there’s not much to change with a fixed subframe, the geometry is all fixed (although it’s adjustable) and I’m kinda chained to the requirement of the diff angle.
jsf55
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I reckon 5mm spacers would sort the front wheels, not ideal but if it works ? as for being 2mm out, suck it and see, I've looked at loads of data on car builds, professional and amateur and it's surprising how much they fall for the " got to be dead centre and engine tilted back 5 degree" but never understand why
the front has a little issue with the brake disks so I may rexengineer the hubs to space the wheels out a little more anyway.
yeah I’m not changing it for 2mm lol. It’s very very near engineering. If it’s out I’ll just have to compensate when tracking it
arther dailey
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10 to 20mm 
Woody.v8
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Crikey , even on the stockcar where we are wellying hell out of each other i try to keep everthing <1mm
