Handy 3d prints for the workshop

[Onoff]

Yes i often find this, would be nice to be able to do a layer by layer adjustment

Found some interesting options here:

https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/20451-cura-variable-layer-heigth/

Given to my lad to try.

 

[Onoff]

Cutting the copper battery terminals for the adapter was fiddly. The rectangular ones are good. The L shape ones need a little fettling with the needle files:






This is the Makita battery side. The leg of the L gets bent over and soldered to the face of the rectangular bit sticking up. That engages with the Makita battery.






The other side that engages with the Einhell tool. I'm pointing to the other leg of the copper L. I have to "kink" this leg to make contact with the Einhell tool;s battery connector "blades".






The soldering might be fun. I don't want to burn the PLA when I do it. Might print off a sacrificial "former" to hold the pieces for soldering.

 

[Onoff]

The 1m copper L gets put in and bent over. Found it easiest to do with a bfo screwdriver with the end ground flat. one leg is 20mm that gets bent and soldered, the other leg 21mm. You MUST get them the right way around!








Ready to solder. Just realised I'll have to do this all in situ and risk melting the PLA behind:



The "springy" bits that engage with the blades on the Einhell tool were next. Took a stab at bending them over a small drill bit then levering the copper with the same bfo screwdriver:



Which is how I unfortunately managed to break the clip that locks the adapter to the Einhell tool (again)! Definitely because of the layer orientation I'm sure. Nothing to do with my heavy handedness.....Going to super glue it and squirt a shot of CT1 down behind.

 

[hotponyshoes]

and i'd also want to be able to add extra wall thickness around e.g vertical screw holes through parts. It's possible to bump the number of walls up in Cura, but that affects the whole model (something that seems wasteful for a lot of stuff)

See a post by Onoff on page6 of this thread

 

[Henrik]

See a post by Onoff on page6 of this thread

Oh nice, what a good idea!

 

[Onoff]

All soldered up and tested. The jury's out. Need to try with good batteries. I'll assemble the chainsaw with the blade etc tomorrow and try it:

Short video:

https://flic.kr/p/2iTgFqZ

 

[Onoff]

The Einkita / Makhell hybrid chainsaw only WORKS! It's alright too.

No proper oil so I've put 20w50 (for the Capris) in.

Video tomorrow / the weekend.

 

[Onoff]

Printing in ABS:

@ukracer, my lad tried yesterday afternoon / evening for the first time. It's Steadytech ABS PRO which you recommended. Doesn't seem that noxious as you said . He set up outside on the patio table whilst the day was still hot and printed into the evening. As a nod to keeping everything warm he placed a huge, upturned, clear storage crate over the whole printer. The crate wasn't quite tall enough to touch the table.

The test cubes came out pretty good. Then went onto the bigger piece in the picture.

After approx 21 layers the whole print slid across the bed where it had become unadhered. Because it didn't stick to the bed or that the ambient temperature had dropped?

Also a bit of warping, curvature. Nice tight layers other than that.



I'm reading things like to use hairspray, glue stick, masking tape, ABS slurry on the bed to stop this. I've some Asda Smart Price Hairspray here. Reading Sainsburys basic one is pretty good. What do you use?

Cheers

 

[ukracer]

Printing in ABS:

@ukracer, my lad tried yesterday afternoon / evening for the first time. It's Steadytech ABS PRO which you recommended. Doesn't seem that noxious as you said . He set up outside on the patio table whilst the day was still hot and printed into the evening. As a nod to keeping everything warm he placed a huge, upturned, clear storage crate over the whole printer. The crate wasn't quite tall enough to touch the table.

The test cubes came out pretty good. Then went onto the bigger piece in the picture.

After approx 21 layers the whole print slid across the bed where it had become unadhered. Because it didn't stick to the bed or that the ambient temperature had dropped?

Also a bit of warping, curvature. Nice tight layers other than that.



I'm reading things like to use hairspray, glue stick, masking tape, ABS slurry on the bed to stop this. I've some Asda Smart Price Hairspray here. Reading Sainsburys basic one is pretty good. What do you use?

Cheers

ABS Slury.
Just white ABS chopped into 1 inch strips. 10% strips to 90% acetone.
Coat it on the bed.
I will send you a profile later. It's for ender 2 but has a gcode in it that prints a shield round the part so no breezes cool directly.
Your lad will probably be able to use the code.

 

[ukracer]

I am currently printing visors for the NHS and had a problem. Will explain late but my ender 3 now prints PLA awesome onto glass cleaned with acetone....I have done over 50 without recleaning.

 

[Onoff]

ABS Slury.
Just white ABS chopped into 1 inch strips. 10% strips to 90% acetone.
Coat it on the bed.
I will send you a profile later. It's for ender 2 but has a gcode in it that prints a shield round the part so no breezes cool directly.
Your lad will probably be able to use the code.

Cheers

Is that 10% by weight?

Roughly how many ml of acetone to coat the bed?

 

[Onoff]

What exactly is ABS slurry? Is it ABS fully dissolved in "acetone" or a bitty liquid for "grip"?

Not sure if this gun cleaner is pure acetone.



What we've seen on YouTube it looks like milk as in made from white filament

 

[ukracer]

Cheers

Is that 10% by weight?

Roughly how many ml of acetone to coat the bed?

Roughly estimated...and yes white abs produces a milky liquid .

I just keep adding to it as it pulls of with the part leaving the center clean glass again. I use a Sainsbury's tub from herbs as it's glass with a screw top. You can buy the acetate from most chemists. Certainly boots stick it. Very small bottle but wil make enough slurry to coat small bed 20 times.
I use foams on a stick for poster painting. Being a cheap skate I use an old Bolognase jar to store the foam stick and I usually make it last 10 to 15 uses.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/0gj4fuwt9j87zzv/VID_20200425_113214.mp4?dl=0

 

[ukracer]

Above is a finished print. Notice the shield/surrounding wall. That is not part of the model.



Above is the slurry before shaking to use.

Above is the slurry after shaking to use.



Above is the slurry after applying. Being a divvy I always cost the full bed even if I am doing a small print so it keeps building up. I I decided to do a larger print I use a Stanley scraper to get the slurry off...but it's easier to wash it in the sink and let it dry to be honest.

 

[Onoff]

"Made" an enclosure to have another go at ABS. No slurry or anything else to promote bed adhesion. Outside on the patio table and getting cold now so it could all go t!ts up.

 

[Onoff]

Notice the shield/surrounding wall.

My lad is trying a shield on this one printing now.

 

[Onoff]

@ukracer have you got another plate clamped to your bed as in an add on?

Also your slurry, has it got bits in or is it smooth? If bits then could they not be higher than the first layer?

Failure on the ABS with no adhesion promoter...and then some!

My lad thought that printing ABS without any adhesion promoter would work if he enclosed the printer and printed a sacrificial shield encircling the print. Lesson learnt!

It moved:



It warped:



Despite printing a sacrificial "heat shield" around it:



This was the first layer, you can see how the "hole" didn't adhere:



It has potential though, nice tight layers:



It won't go to waste though. It'll get chopped up to make ABS slurry. Using foam gun cleaner "contains acetone" and it's taking an age to dissolve the ABS. Just tried Lidl's Baufix thinners, first ingredient acetone and that's dissolving it a treat.

 

[indy4x]

I am currently printing visors for the NHS and had a problem. Will explain late but my ender 3 now prints PLA awesome onto glass cleaned with acetone....I have done over 50 without recleaning.

I'm on it as well printing visors, only clean the glass pate once in a blue moon

 

[knighty]

@ukracer have you got another plate clamped to your bed as in an add on?

Also your slurry, has it got bits in or is it smooth? If bits then could they not be higher than the first layer?

Failure on the ABS with no adhesion promoter...and then some!

My lad thought that printing ABS without any adhesion promoter would work if he enclosed the printer and printed a sacrificial shield encircling the print. Lesson learnt!

It moved:



It warped:



Despite printing a sacrificial "heat shield" around it:



This was the first layer, you can see how the "hole" didn't adhere:



It has potential though, nice tight layers:



It won't go to waste though. It'll get chopped up to make ABS slurry. Using foam gun cleaner "contains acetone" and it's taking an age to dissolve the ABS. Just tried Lidl's Baufix thinners, first ingredient acetone and that's dissolving it a treat.

put something around/over the printer as an enclosure, to keep the heat in

before you start printing put the bed on arming up and give it 20 or 30min to warm everything up a bit

I've only ever printed in ABS, heat makes a hell of a difference

had my bed temp set to 110'C too (bed temp sensors are notoriously inaccurate anyway)

 

[Agroshield]

Using foam gun cleaner "contains acetone" and it's taking an age to dissolve the ABS. Just tried Lidl's Baufix thinners, first ingredient acetone and that's dissolving it a treat.

Nail varnish remover is 99% acetone, so raid the old lady's make up box.