Handy 3d prints for the workshop

[Normsthename]

Over the years I've tried all the home remedies to get prints to stick.
Hairspray, ABS Slurry, tape etc etc etc.....
The one I use now is PEI (Polyetherimide)
I can't remember the last time I had a failed print due to bed adhesion (Famous last words..... )
All I do before a print is clean the surface with isopropyl alcohol and its good to go

Andy

 

[Onoff]

Over the years I've tried all the home remedies to get prints to stick.
Hairspray, ABS Slurry, tape etc etc etc.....
The one I use now is PEI (Polyetherimide)
I can't remember the last time I had a failed print due to bed adhesion (Famous last words..... )
All I do before a print is clean the surface with isopropyl alcohol and its good to go

Andy

Never heard of PEI. Got any links where to buy? Cheers

 

[ukracer]

Never heard of PEI. Got any links where to buy? Cheers

Can't copy link but this eBay number will lead you to his other sizes.
153899785650

 

[Onoff]

Looking at the price of PEI filament on eBay we won't be using it I don't think. Typing in "pei filament" only brought up 3 and they were mega money.

 

[ukracer]

Looking at the price of PEI filament on eBay we won't be using it I don't think. Typing in "pei filament" only brought up 3 and they were mega money.

Lol. No mate you use normal filament on the PEI sheet stuck to your bed.

 

[Onoff]

Lol. No mate you use normal filament on the PEI sheet stuck to your bed.

Ah...


So the PEI sheet gets stuck to the glass bed. With what?

Then do you print direct onto the PEI sheet with PLA and ABS and does it come off OK?

Cheers

 

[ukracer]

Ah...


So the PEI sheet gets stuck to the glass bed. With what?

Then do you print direct onto the PEI sheet with PLA and ABS and does it come off OK?

Cheers

I don't use it mate. Others Do and swear by them.
I steered away from it when I got ABS slurry to work and usually get good results with acetone cleaned glass for my PLA. Bed levelling has been the most important thing for me.

 

[Normsthename]

the PEI sheet gets stuck to the glass bed. With what?

Then do you print direct onto the PEI sheet with PLA and ABS and does it come off OK?

When I bought the PEI sheet it came with a 3M double sided sheet that is OK for use with the heated bed.
I stuck the PEI to a glass sheet to keep it flat as possible.
I then used 15mm Square CPU heatsink thermal pads on the aluminium build plate to hold the glass in place. (24 in Total)
I used this after all sorts of 3d printed clamps to hold the glass in place, but none of them worked properly and would come loose with the heat.
Never had a problem with the thermal pads holding the glass

Andy

 

[Onoff]

As I see it on this Anycubic i3 Mega S the bed, what they call their "Ultrabase", is stuck fast to the heated bed. Can't see how you would separate the two without needing a new heated bed.

Ditto if I stick a PEI sheet to the Ultrabase. If the PEI sheet wears is it new Ultrabase and heated bed time?

 

[hotponyshoes]

I have only used pla (no heated bed or anything fancy)

I found the cure to most of the adhesion problems was getting the bed REALLY level.
I thought people were obsessing about bed leveling a bit much until I took half an hour to sort mine out properly and it not only makes parts stick better but helps a lot with the surface finish on the under side of the part and even with the stringing when the extruder is moving between sections.

The automatic leveling on my printer was not anything like as good as it looked.
I drew out 5 cubes, about 1" each, one at the furthest corner of my bed area and one in the center, set the slicer to pause after each layer (or just pause or cancel manually after its printed the first layer of each one and have a look at each of them.
If any look worse than the others or pick off the bed really easily then adjust just that one corner by 1/8 of a turn or something and print again. Keep adjusting (but only one corner at a time) until they all turn out good and I have not had any problems since.

The only mod I have made from the factory spec is the leveling screws on my bed were big knobs with springs under them. Presumably the springs are to stop the screws rotating with vibrations. I removed them and put a locking nut on instead. I'm not even sure if this mod was required but the knobs seemed very easy to turn so after spending half an hour adjusting the bed I did not want to have to do it again.

I still get problems with warping, usually only with big prints when I get up to 4+ solid bottom layers and over 25% infill. Since doing the bed level printing with a raft (slow thick first layer) and it now seems to stick well enough to hold the raft down firmly. I had to decrease my gap from model to raft to 0.2 otherwise the print will tear itself from the raft when it warps rather than pull the raft from the bed.
I got a paint scraper type tool and sharpened/polished it up on the buffer to pop the prints off the bed now.

 

[Onoff]

I have only used pla (no heated bed or anything fancy)

We've only used PLA and PLA Wood so far. That's now repeatable with zero warping. No enclosure, with a heated bed and the Ultrabase on its own with no adhesion promoters at all.

I'll be interested to see how an enclosure helps PLA, if at all.

It's only with ABS we've come unstuck. Literally!

We'll get there! I've a piece of 5mm cast acrylic coming this weekend hopefully. That and a big piece of 3/4" ply in the garage to make a "glass" fronted, wheeled enclosure about 1200 high and 600×600 on plan. Just need SWMBO's agreement as to where it can live, semi permanent in the house. (That might smooth the way for the full size arcade cabinet ).

What she doesn't know is of the plan to have a coil of vacuum hose on the back and some sort of flat plate that'll clip into the window frame for fume extraction!

 

[Henrik]

I'm also thinking of an enclosure, but I want something that is fire proof so I can feel better about leaving the printer running in the garage or shed, especially if I'm printing ABS.

I'm not sure how to go about it, tbh... Would a double akin be required, or could one get away with a single layer of steel, for example?

 

[WorkshopChris]

I'm also thinking of an enclosure, but I want something that is fire proof so I can feel better about leaving the printer running in the garage or shed, especially if I'm printing ABS.

I'm not sure how to go about it, tbh... Would a double akin be required, or could one get away with a single layer of steel, for example?

Either steel or plasterboard lined enclosure and a sheet of fire-rated glass for the door.

 

[Onoff]

I'm also thinking of an enclosure, but I want something that is fire proof so I can feel better about leaving the printer running in the garage or shed, especially if I'm printing ABS.

I'm not sure how to go about it, tbh... Would a double akin be required, or could one get away with a single layer of steel, for example?

How about a smoke alarm in there?

Or...mod a dead dishwasher...nice big opening door. Or maybe a big oven...or fridge casing...

 

[Onoff]

When I bought the PEI sheet it came with a 3M double sided sheet that is OK for use with the heated bed.
I stuck the PEI to a glass sheet to keep it flat as possible.
I then used 15mm Square CPU heatsink thermal pads on the aluminium build plate to hold the glass in place. (24 in Total)
I used this after all sorts of 3d printed clamps to hold the glass in place, but none of them worked properly and would come loose with the heat.
Never had a problem with the thermal pads holding the glass

Andy

What happens when the PEI sheet wears out, assuming it does. From the top then you have:

PEI sheet
3M double sided tape
Glass
Thermal pads
Heated bed

Or if the heated bed packs up. Do you have to scrap the other attached components?

Cheers

 

[ukracer]

What happens when the PEI sheet wears out, assuming it does. From the top then you have:

PEI sheet
3M double sided tape
Glass
Thermal pads
Heated bed

Or if the heated bed packs up. Do you have to scrap the other attached components?

Cheers

No just slice the tape off the glass and PEI as that's flexible. But if you have PEi sheet that should go to heated bed with 3M tape. No glass.

 

[ukracer]

What happens when the PEI sheet wears out, assuming it does. From the top then you have:

PEI sheet
3M double sided tape
Glass
Thermal pads
Heated bed

Or if the heated bed packs up. Do you have to scrap the other attached components?

Cheers

This might help you..

 

[Onoff]

My lad reckons Steadytech PLA is much more brittle on the reel than say Flash Forge PLA. He's had Steadytech break twice now. Any brittleness experiences with different filament makes?

 

[Ruffian]

Been using filaments from technology outlet and all 3 rolls I have bought have been good quality and user friendly.

 

[Onoff]

Continuing down the latest rabbit hole that is an enclosure for the 3D printer...

Oddly enough the neighbouring farm didn't want anything for this. Let me and my lad take it FOR NOTHING! His loss! AND I can take the scrap back to the pile.

Got to go back for the filament storage area (bottom draws) and doors. Just hoping the assorted greenhouse glass I've got will fit the sides without cutting. Got a bfo thick piece of chipboard for a nice heavy shelf for the printer. Castors too sitting in the shed looking for a home.






Find the Sharpie & fire up the grinder!