Handy 3d prints for the workshop

[Onoff]

I extended all the wires from my printer and moved everything I could outside the enclosure.

PSU, Motherboard, Mosfets and filament reels are all on the outside of my enclosure.

This has meant that I can bolt my printer down making it much more stable and less prone to print artifacts from the frame moving.

The only maintenance I have ever needed to do inside the enclosure is on the extruder head and with the filament on the outside its less likely to go soft before printing which can be an issue with PLA.

Can you get ready made "extension leads"?

 

[Onoff]

This ruddy Steadytech black PLA. Reel just sitting there, not under tension printer not in use. THREE breakage points just occured for seemingly no reason. I'm going to complain to box.co.uk:

 

[tflnemesis]

Process of elimination here,

Have you been handling it with greasy hands after eating? It goes very brittle if it gets vegetable oils on it.

Does the filament flex at the same points when disturbed? Draughts, table bumps etc.

Filament could be wet? Easiest way to find out is cut 100- 120mm filament, load it into extruder, run it up to temperature 195-210c for pla, when up to temp release the filament tension and push the filament through by hand. If it pops and hisses a lot chances are its damp.

All stuff I have come across before when using mine.

 

[Onoff]

Process of elimination here,

Have you been handling it with greasy hands after eating? It goes very brittle if it gets vegetable oils on it.

Does the filament flex at the same points when disturbed? Draughts, table bumps etc.

Filament could be wet? Easiest way to find out is cut 100- 120mm filament, load it into extruder, run it up to temperature 195-210c for pla, when up to temp release the filament tension and push the filament through by hand. If it pops and hisses a lot chances are its damp.

All stuff I have come across before when using mine.

Not treating it any differently from the other filaments we've used, Anycubic etc

 

[ukracer]

Not treating it any differently from the other filaments we've used, Anycubic etc

I have not used the steadytech PLA just the ABS Pro so not sure. I will ask around.

 

[Onoff]

Something like this. It'll look better when sanded and painted up with it's "glass" sides and door! Who needs IKEA?

All the wooden bits connect together with the 3D printed PLA bits at the corners OK. (Though I did break one hinge ). You can just see the door hinges on the front. 9mm ply sheet on the back. I'm a couple of mm out somewhere but I'll get away with it with a bit of trimming!

Can't decide whether to let a clear panel into the top.

 

[indy4x]

@Onoff been having the same issue with 2 diferent rolls on my Copymaster, it looks like when the roll is getting towards its last 25% or so the filament does not like being straightened and snaps. Doesn't happen during a print just sometime after the print job has completed and the printer is standing idle it breaks

It does not happen with all filaments, just certain rolls

 

[Onoff]

@Onoff been having the same issue with 2 diferent rolls on my Copymaster, it looks like when the roll is getting towards its last 25% or so the filament does not like being straightened and snaps. Doesn't happen during a print just sometime after the print job has completed and the printer is standing idle it breaks

It does not happen with all filaments, just certain rolls

I think the 3rd roll was ok with no breakage. Box.co.uk have come back to me and said they're taking it up with the supplier.

 

[Onoff]

A bit more progress. Though you can't see them the reprinted bits are done. All joints slackened and re tightened for a better fit.

Two front doors cut to size from 2mm perspex or whatever this freebie stuff is. As I feared 2mm is a bit flexible so on one door I've clipped a length of copper bus bar that fits over the edge a treat. Makes things much more rigid. As aforementioned looking now to move these parts outside the enclosure.

Got some blingy, wi-fi controlled, USB powered LED light strips coming for the inside. Comes with remote and can be controlled via an app.

Picked up a 2G, MK USB socket to go on the back.

 

[Onoff]

I'm after having a real time temperature monitoring system for the 3D printer enclosure.

I know what I'd like but have no idea if its possible!

- Wi-fi enabled Raspberry Pi

- DS18b20 sensors

My lad I'm sure can figure that bit out.

- GUI on the pc. Ideally a simple graphical representation of the enclosure with the various temperatures. That's the tricky bit for me. Any pointers/links/guides? My lad just said "Why not use a list?" and went back to gaming. He's happy though reading pages of code like mere mortals like me look at pictures!

Aside I think these sensors are only good up to 105degC.

https://www.circuitbasics.com/raspberry-pi-ds18b20-temperature-sensor-tutorial/

 

[Onoff]

Going for 3 coats of rollered, Bedec satin black barn paint on the printer enclosure. Hugely expensive at about £50/5l.

Drilled for an extract fan and the rear power socket:

 

[ukracer]

I'm after having a real time temperature monitoring system for the 3D printer enclosure.

I know what I'd like but have no idea if its possible!

- Wi-fi enabled Raspberry Pi

- DS18b20 sensors

My lad I'm sure can figure that bit out.

- GUI on the pc. Ideally a simple graphical representation of the enclosure with the various temperatures. That's the tricky bit for me. Any pointers/links/guides? My lad just said "Why not use a list?" and went back to gaming. He's happy though reading pages of code like mere mortals like me look at pictures!

Aside I think these sensors are only good up to 105degC.

https://www.circuitbasics.com/raspberry-pi-ds18b20-temperature-sensor-tutorial/

Check out Octoprint....it gives you remote can and Temps simply. Not sure how you would do cabinet temps remotely though.

Oh BTW if you like a giggle. The chap who sold me the steady tech ABSPro printing Ender 2 had his Any cubic 4 pack up. So he had to borrow my printer to print a complete new carriage to fit a V6 hotend as the Anycibic is proprietary and worn out. Lol

What made it worse is he tried Sunlu ABS Pro and it was garbage so he is now using the last of his Steady tech hoping he can find new stock soon...lol

 

[Onoff]

Little by little it's getting there. Blingy lights awaited. Power socket and extract fan to be fitted though the holes are all there. More trim round the front doors etc. Not too shabby for what was scrap timber and free plastic:

 

[tflnemesis]

Next job, print some handles for the doors .

 

[Onoff]

Next job, print some handles for the doors .

Look closer, they're fitted down the bottom!

Next job is probably find the Brasso and bring the perspex up a bit.

 

[Onoff]

Anyone know if I'll be alright using a 12V DC, 500mA unregulated power supply to drive a 12V DC, 170ma computer fan?

Its the only "wall wart" I've got here with a low current output.

3D printed fan cowl on the back. Fan sits between that and the back of the enclosure:

At the moment just strapped a PP3 to the fan to test:

 

[Onoff]

Got the 120mm pc fan mounted dead centre, high up on the rear of the enclosure. Running off of an old BT router psu. Silver duct up and out through the window. Did a couple of benchy cubes in blue, Steadytech ABS Pro. Hoping @ukracer or @tflnemesis can suggest where we're going wrong!

1st go, 80degC bed, 235degC nozzle, 0.3mm layers:







2nd go, 100degC bed, 230degC nozzle, 0.2mm layers:

 

[ukracer]

Got the 120mm pc fan mounted dead centre, high up on the rear of the enclosure. Running off of an old BT router psu. Silver duct up and out through the window. Did a couple of benchy cubes in blue, Steadytech ABS Pro. Hoping @ukracer or @tflnemesis can suggest where we're going wrong!

1st go, 80degC bed, 235degC nozzle, 0.3mm layers:







2nd go, 100degC bed, 235degC nozzle, 0.2mm layers:

You really would be better of going on this Facebook group.
John Pearson is admin and is also guru on Steadytech ABSPro plus he recently borrowed my ender 2 to fix his Any cubic.

If you pm me you or your lads Facebook name I will send an invite from the group.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/2101090063270505/

 

[Onoff]

You really would be better of going on this Facebook group.
John Pearson is admin and is also guru on Steadytech ABSPro plus he recently borrowed my ender 2 to fix his Any cubic.

If you pm me you or your lads Facebook name I will send an invite from the group.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/2101090063270505/

Cheers. You offered before. Tbh neither of us do FB but my lad's got an account because of uni. Just spoke to him and he's relented. PM incoming.

 

[tflnemesis]

Check belt tension, calibrate steps in each axis and extruder, for ABS turn off cooling, run a PID tune of bed and extruder.

^^ This is what i would be checking if my cubes came out like yours.

Although... calibration cubes aren't really that much use 20x20x20 is really too small to get any accurate results on.
For calibration in X/Y i print a 120mm square, 3mm thick, 1.5mm tall
For Z calibration i use 3 towers 20x20x100 single walled (0.4mm) spaced 50mm apart accross the bed corner to corner.

I used this site for the calibration settings, the math had me stuck for a while but i worked it out.
https://all3dp.com/2/how-to-calibrate-a-3d-printer-simply-explained/