Handy 3d prints for the workshop

[Onoff]

I really think SWMBO is pretty stoked at the thought of this coming indoors...

 

[Onoff]

I need to source some strong "runners" so I can do a slide out shelf for the printer to sit on. This as the side windows of the cabinet will be fixed. Don't know whether to go with wheels or traditional drawer runners? The printer only has to slide out far enough to allow reel changing.

Any suggestions?

 

[tflnemesis]

You could do what I have done and position the reel outside the cabinet on the top and just drill a small hole to feed it through.

 

[Onoff]

You could do what I have done and position the reel outside the cabinet on the top and just drill a small hole to feed it through.

Thanks. Project just abandoned. The fridge is back on the rubbish pile where it came from.

 

[Onoff]

@ukracer, @tflnemesis, what's your thoughts on this type done with IKEA LACK tables? Looks a bit self defeating to me as there's a 3mm 'ish gap all round the Perspex panels!

 

[tflnemesis]

@Onoff If you are putting an exhaust fan in then you want some gaps so air can be drawn in, a must if you are planning on printing ABS.
They are mainly for keeping the air temperature inside stable as sudden drops in temp from draughts etc can make warping and splitting along layers worse (ABS).
They also help keep the noise down.
I have seen the Lack table enclosures on youtube before it should be easy enough to size your perspex to leave no gaps although you might want to sit down when you price it up .

A large cardboard box would do in a pinch .

 

[Onoff]

@Onoff If you are putting an exhaust fan in then you want some gaps so air can be drawn in, a must if you are planning on printing ABS.
They are mainly for keeping the air temperature inside stable as sudden drops in temp from draughts etc can make warping and splitting along layers worse (ABS).
They also help keep the noise down.
I have seen the Lack table enclosures on youtube before it should be easy enough to size your perspex to leave no gaps although you might want to sit down when you price it up .

A large cardboard box would do in a pinch .

Cheers

The enclosure is specifically so we can print ABS.

So from what you're saying I 100% need a fan? Got a bunch here 12, 24V, ex pc ones etc. Any idea on sizing, don't want to draw too much heat off or is variable speed the way to go?

All 5 pieces of 3mm Plexiglas for the LACK style build £38 cut to size I've been quoted. I'd rather not!

Just eyeing up and old Sharp 42" lcd tv here destined for the tip. Appears to have a nice big bit of "plastic", presumably clear, that fits in front of the LCD screen as some sort of bfo screen protector. 42" + on the diagonal. It drums like plastic if you gently rap your knuckles on it. Anyone stripped one that far down?

Black LACK tables from IKEA not available for delivery so we're making something.
Just cut 2 550x550 ply pieces just now for base and top (old site shuttering). Cost zero!

Within a mm but then I did use my 185mm Evolution circular saw!

 

[tflnemesis]

I have a single 120mm pc fan run off the the printer PSU, low down in one of the corners, no speed control just on full whack with a 4" aluminium flexi pipe to a board slotted into the top open window.

ABS being a petrochemical plastic gives off toxic fumes in small quantities so i would say yes its a must.

 

[Onoff]

I have a single 120mm pc fan run off the the printer PSU, low down in one of the corners, no speed control just on full whack with a 4" aluminium flexi pipe to a board slotted into the top open window.

ABS being a petrochemical plastic gives off toxic fumes in small quantities so i would say yes its a must.

Got one of those I think. Why low down? I was going to go up the top of the rear panel with a fan.

 

[ukracer]

I don't print ABS but I use Steady tech ABS Pro . It's in a cupboard and it has a heater in there but no extraction.
It has gaps round it and it's often not fully shut. But I do have a shield that prints round each part.
How it's done I don't know but I feel really guilty about throwing the shields out as they print mint. Lol I say I don't know how it's done.......it must be done in Cura somehow as every model I slice has one printed round it.

The key for me is the ABS Juice./Slurry as it sticks brilliant.
I purchased the ender 2 set up and the guy sent me his profile. I have not touched bed levelling since I got it.....not even set it up after bringing it out of the car. The ender 3 has caused me issues after churning out 60 masks non stop..........exacerbated by being forced to swap filament .
Endless bed adjustment and flow rates plus temp settings. Together with multiple thermal issues gave me cause to try a new main board.
For speed in postage I went for 1.1.5 silent board....after initially plugging in the bed and nozzle reversed.
Which made me think it was a thermistor and not board....lol I sorted that as soon as I heated the bed on its own and saw nozzle temp rise.

Anyway just awaiting a long micro USB to flash marlin as new board does not have mesh bed levelling , which I find indispensable.

It was using that I was getting the thermal runaway issues mainly so as I have gone for a slow fix approach I might as well confirm it was the board.....but it's not had an issue since installing the new board.

I have had all 3 running at the same time. It's the first time I have been able to do that. Ironically I had to use the Anet AM8 to print a duct for the ender 3 and I forgot how well it actually does print.

 

[Onoff]

I don't print ABS but I use Steady tech ABS Pro .

Steadytech ABS Pro is what we're experimenting with as I've said.

Lad complained tonight of another filament snap using Steadytech PLA. That's the 3rd time with this batch!

 

[tflnemesis]

Got one of those I think. Why low down? I was going to go up the top of the rear panel with a fan.

I just figured it was better to keep the airflow low sort of below the build plate rather than dumping all the warmer air at the top. Works for me .

But I do have a shield that prints round each part.

Under 'Experimental' in Cura is a check box ' Enable draught shield ' uncheck it and no more shield. Although unless you are printing big stuff i don't think it uses a lot of plastic as they are usually only one wall thickness.

 

[ukracer]

Steadytech ABS Pro is what we're experimenting with as I've said.

Lad complained tonight of another filament snap using Steadytech PLA. That's the 3rd time with this batch!

sorry mate you said "The enclosure is specifically so we can print ABS." I assumed you were trying pure ABS.

I cant print that stuff it just warps but the pro is a different animal...much easier. The guy who sold me on it....and then I purchased his machine . lol

He got a fully enclosed one and rebuilt it with decent gear. He would get on well with your lad as he designs as well.

Not sure about filament breakages I have never had one or a failed print since using the ABS unless you count this one..lol



I was pushing it hoping an 8mm nozzle was going to bridge that easy.

John pearson runs https://www.facebook.com/groups/2101090063270505/ . is your lad on facebook . If so I can send him an invite!

He designed these two!

 

[Onoff]

Scored a sheet of 2mm "perspex" today for nowt! A bit thinner than I'd like but beggars can't be etc.



And ripped the start of the legs up from some scrap:



Will all be sanded, filled, painted black etc. Plan is double doors on the front. Sides fully removable with wing bolts and penny washers.

Just printing some "feet" up. These will be screwed to the base board and the legs will slot in allowing the whole top to be lifted off. Front feet will incorporate hinges for the front doors.



The base board will hopefully become a top for a bottom storage unit on castors, later on.

 

[Kram]

I have just seen this, I dont think the fridge would be allowed indoors Gave me an idea. We have an old and decent quality hifi cabinet that we have no use for and to good to scrap. With the shelf removed and door extended it may be perfect for a small 3d printer?

At a guess 500mm square deep and wide.

 

[Onoff]

I have just seen this, I dont think the fridge would be allowed indoors Gave me an idea. We have an old and decent quality hifi cabinet that we have no use for and to good to scrap. With the shelf removed and door extended it may be perfect for a small 3d printer?

At a guess 500mm square deep and wide.

Just remember to consider things like access for reel changing, to the on/off switch, the memory card slot etc.

All things we're looking at at the moment.

 

[tflnemesis]

Just remember to consider things like access for reel changing, to the on/off switch, the memory card slot etc.

I extended all the wires from my printer and moved everything I could outside the enclosure.

PSU, Motherboard, Mosfets and filament reels are all on the outside of my enclosure.

This has meant that I can bolt my printer down making it much more stable and less prone to print artifacts from the frame moving.

The only maintenance I have ever needed to do inside the enclosure is on the extruder head and with the filament on the outside its less likely to go soft before printing which can be an issue with PLA.

 

[Kram]

It was made by my grandad about 30 years ago who was a joiner. We dont have space and no 3d printer, so if its suitable and anyone interested Im offering it for free.

 

[tflnemesis]

Oh, and if you print any modifications or bracketry for your printer that will live inside the enclosure PLA is not suitable as it will soften and move. ABS or Petg are much more thermally stable at the temps inside an enclosure.

 

[Onoff]

It was made by my grandad about 30 years ago who was a joiner. We dont have space and no 3d printer, so if its suitable and anyone interested Im offering it for free.

Lovely bit of work there. Bet that's not MDF!