Help needed no knowledge

[chrisf1]

Hi again everyone things are progressing quite well I have taken the motor in for inspection/repair and it is "£$%^&*ed I have been searching the net for a replacement and the best I have found is £129.00 the details of the motor I have removed are


RPM 2800rpm
Shaft diameter 28mm
Shaft length 60mm
Frame 100mm
Foot across front 160mm
Side 140mm
Height to shaft centre 100mm
2.5 kw
3.5 hp
16 amp

the one I am looking to replace it with are



3KW / 4HP SINGLE PHASE CAPACITOR START & RUN 2800RPM 240 VOLT MOTOR

MOTOR DETAILS

HP --- 4

KW --- 3

RPM --- 2800

AMPS --- 18.2

SKF BEARING

IP55

FRAME --- 100L-2

MODEL NO --- ML100L-2

CENTRE SHAFT HEIGHT 100MM

SHAFT LENGTH 60MM

SHAFT DIAMETER 28MM

CAP START & RUN FOR HIGH STARTING TORQUE

ALL MOTORS COME WITH A FULL SET WIRING INSTRUCTIONS, MULTI MOUNT FEET & CAN BE FITTED WITH A B14 OR B5 FLANGE ON CUSTOMERS REQUEST AT A SMALL EXTRA CHARGE OF 8%.

ROBUST ALUMINIUM TERMINAL BOX

DIRECTION OF MOTOR CAN BE CHANGED BUY THE SIMPLE MOVING OF 2 COPPER LINKS OR SWITCHED THROUGH A FORWARD REVERSE STARTER FOR USE WITH ROLLER DOORS ETC

MOTORS WILL BE SENT BY TNT ON A 24HOUR DELIVERY IF PURCHASED BEFORE 11.00AM

Can anyone see any reason why this would not be suitable or even better where I could obtain one for less money as already this has turned into a dear project but I am in to deep to stop many thanks Chris

 

[rtbcomp]

Go for a 3 horse (2.2kw) motor instead, although you may have to change the pulley.

I bought a motor from these people, seems quite good quality.

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/goldcresttechnologies/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686

 

[chrisf1]

Hi again RTB I have looked at that, but the pulley change makes it dearer unless you know where I can get a cheaper one it is a 5.5 inch pulley I was quoted £40-£50 for a pulley from Airmark dropping from 28mm shaft to 24mm and apparently I will have to drill new rear mount holes as the motor footprint is smaller thanks Chris

 

[rtbcomp]

Machine Mart do a range of pullies

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/range/details/aluminium-v-belt-pulleys/path/pulleys

If you drop a motor size a slightly smaller pulley may be advantagous anyway, you'll get slightly less cfm but the motor will be under less strain.

You would need to check the v-section of both pullies is the same though.

 

[chrisf1]

Hi again everyone well the new motor arrived today it is the one I have mentioned earlier in the thread and I have a problem straight away, I first connected the motor up without the belt on to determine that it was running in the right direction it wasn't so I followed the instructions supplied and now have it running the right way. I then fitted the belt and every time I switch on it blows the fuse but here we may have the problem at the moment I am only running through a normal 13 amp plug which as I say it blows without budging the pump is this likely to be the cause? I have an unused 32 amp trip switch on my consumer board which as luck would have it is in the garage where the monster will live, is it much of a job to connect up to and the fuse being underrated the cause of it blowing ? Many thanks Chris

 

[jordan1]

Hi again everyone well the new motor arrived today it is the one I have mentioned earlier in the thread and I have a problem straight away, I first connected the motor up without the belt on to determine that it was running in the right direction it wasn't so I followed the instructions supplied and now have it running the right way. I then fitted the belt and every time I switch on it blows the fuse but here we may have the problem at the moment I am only running through a normal 13 amp plug which as I say it blows without budging the pump is this likely to be the cause? I have an unused 32 amp trip switch on my consumer board which as luck would have it is in the garage where the monster will live, is it much of a job to connect up to and the fuse being underrated the cause of it blowing ? Many thanks Chris

I had a similar problem, I wired my compressor to a control switch from the consumer unit, sorted.

 

[chrisf1]

Assuming then that is my problem what do I need to buy baring in mind it has 2 motors and pumps and how do I go about it of course I realise when done it will have to be checked by a qualified sparks but I do not have the readys spare to pay to have one do it thanks Chris

 

[brightspark]

Assuming then that is my problem what do I need to buy baring in mind it has 2 motors and pumps and how do I go about it of course I realise when done it will have to be checked by a qualified sparks but I do not have the readys spare to pay to have one do it thanks Chris

take from the 30 amp mcb a 4mm cable to 2 - 30 amp angled mk comando sockets or simlar/ conect leads from motors to the presure switches then from there leads with the 30 amp plugs atached that will get u away . . that is the bare minimum without using contactors which have overload trips fitted .check the amperage of the pressure switches make sure they can carry the full load current of the motors if not contactors will have to be used

 

[chrisf1]

take from the 30 amp mcb a 4mm cable to 2 - 30 amp angled mk comando sockets or simlar/ conect leads from motors to the presure switches then from there leads with the 30 amp plugs atached that will get u away . . that is the bare minimum without using contactors which have overload trips fitted .check the amperage of the pressure switches make sure they can carry the full load current of the motors if not contactors will have to be used

Hi Brightspark what is a contactor is it switch or some other kind of device a pic would be helpful thanks Chris

 

[madkayaker]

its just a big relay normally with 4 normally open contacts

 

[rtbcomp]

Just to confirm:-

1) Both motors are 4 hp.
2) The 2nd pump works OK with the first motor.
3) When you try the new motor the first motor isn't switched on.
4) The tank is empty when you try the new motor.
5) Double check you've changed the direction links correctly.

 

[chrisf1]

Hi again everyone problem now solved I have taken a spur from the consumer board for the cooker which is only connected to the igniter and clock on the gas oven and hob put a 45 amp switch in the spur and everything is working as it should and the new motor now starts and spins like it's meant to. The next move is take the original 3hp airmark motor which was always slow starting to the motor people and tell them to check it out as I can definitely hear a bearing whining and was also slow on start up if they can sort it for a reasonable price I will stick with it, if not I will get another motor of the same I am using and everything should be hunky dory I am still having a problem with the amount of crap in the tank any suggestions welcome of how to purge it without having to go into major surgery would be very useful. Thanks everyone Chris

 

[chrisf1]

Just to confirm:-

1) Both motors are 4 hp.
2) The 2nd pump works OK with the first motor.
3) When you try the new motor the first motor isn't switched on.
4) The tank is empty when you try the new motor.
5) Double check you've changed the direction links correctly.

(1)Hi again RTB (bessy mate) no the new motor is 4hp and the original airmark motor is 3hp which I have not tried since putting the spur in but it needs to go to the motor people first for a check out because I can hear a bearing whining in it. The new motor is the DOGS £$%^&KS it is straight in with no hesitation.
(2) Yes the second pump worked with the airmark motor although the pump has been assembled wrong as you have to look through the pulley to see the oil level glass.
(3) The tank has been has started from empty built up to cut out and run down to restart which it did

I will take the airmark 3hp motor into the motor people on Tuesday to have it looked at as I can hear a bearing whining anyway and if it is more than £40.00 to get like new I will leave it until I can get another new one. What I would really like to know is there a way I can purge this tank of all the crap in it without major surgery as you can probably imagine it is not the easiest thing to move about or around.Thanks Chris

 

[eil]

Can you remove the inspection plugs on the end and power-wash the inside with the drain removed, I had quite big inspection ports on the side on my old one so was possible to get it quite clean that way.

 

[chrisf1]

Can you remove the inspection plugs on the end and power-wash the inside with the drain removed, I had quite big inspection ports on the side on my old one so was possible to get it quite clean that way.

Well that is another problem as I have mentioned about 3 or 4 pages back in this thread (I know I need another volume) the drain plug itself I can remove, but the nut that appears to be the plug system turns either way without loosening or tightening and is airtight so I am a bit wary of getting to physical with it, it works fine when I undo the knurled screw in it but there is that much crap in there I have to keep messing with it as it blocks. I am also wary of undoing the big one in the end as that looks like major surgery Thanks Chris

 

[rtbcomp]

Have you the means of hoisting it up by one end so the end plug is at the bottom and the power wash it out?

 

[chrisf1]

Absolutely not I have managed now to seat it on 2 wooden blocks under the feet so now I can get my hand to the dodgy drain but the best kind of lift I have available is a trolley jack under one end and the plug in the end of the receiver looks seriously in there Chris

 

[chrisf1]

Have you the means of hoisting it up by one end so the end plug is at the bottom and the power wash it out?

Hi again RTB I may be able to get one end in the air with the aid of a car recovery spec lift but looking at the end caps worries me is there any rule of thumb for undoing them and how about sealing when putting back together, also can I leave the oil in the pumps? I can lift it from the end that would not let the oil come out of the fillers but it may well get into the bores. Thanks Chris

 

[rtbcomp]

I'd drain the pumps first - you're better changing the oil anyway.

Those end caps look like they need a C-Spanner. They could be sealed with a gasket (make a new one), O-Ring (Bearings & Seals factor) or sealant (e.g. Loctite pipe & thread, from an engineer's supply firm).

In the case of sealant soften it with a blow torch first. Take the "bottom" cap off before lifting.

 

[chrisf1]

I will happily change the oil anyway but tell me about pump oil because I have access to gallons of good quality 10w40 diesel engine oil and my previous compressor has run for the last 15 years on it although not overworked but this one now owes a few quid so I need to do it right and also the sight glass for the level is another problem I can't see anything through it but I am sure it is not dirty oil I have dipped it and it looks clean I think it is the age of the glass. The end caps are not a C spanner they are nuts ( a bit like myself for getting involved). Are the level glass's a standard size or do they differ? while it is in bits I might as well change them so I can see what is going on. If I go for this I think the wife will have me sectioned. Thanks Chris