Help needed no knowledge

[brightspark]

Hello again everyone I bet there are a few out there saying a fool and his money are easily parted and I would have to agree with them, I ran it on the other motor and it did not cut out because I didn't let it, the pump got very hot and the rattles were getting louder so I stopped it before it locked up but that motor is now on the good pump and working fine anyway the upshot is how can I get out of this problem cheaper than £208.00 + Vodka & Tonic for a new pump, and to make matters worse one of the feet on my new motor broke off any suggestions on my warranty standing with this Thanks everyone a very unhappy Chris

machine mart do replacement pumps 14cfm about £190 00
or might get one of ebay seller cheaper dunno what u paid for your comp but if u have a new motor and buy a new pump thats about 300 say 200 to buy your comp =500 quid still half price for a nice setup

 

[baweld]

looking at the pictures are both motors wired onto seperate 240v plugs?.
As previously stated the motors would have to be powered to start and stop at different times .
The pressure switch is not a problem a standard 25 Fiac or SIP pressure cutoof would suffice , we could probably supply .
The pressure switch would have to be adjustred for cut out at 120 -140 and cut in at probably 80.
You could run just the one motor it would just take longer to fill the tank.
One last thing if you follow a tube off the compressor head to a junction on the trank with a large brass nut on it, this is where the pressure valve is for the no load start.
there is a little rubber diaphram in there and a spring , just make sure its not stuck
common fault
also i would make a plywood frame to go over them pulleys for safety .

 

[chrisf1]

looking at the pictures are both motors wired onto seperate 240v plugs?.
As previously stated the motors would have to be powered to start and stop at different times .
The pressure switch is not a problem a standard 25 Fiac or SIP pressure cutoof would suffice , we could probably supply .
The pressure switch would have to be adjustred for cut out at 120 -140 and cut in at probably 80.
You could run just the one motor it would just take longer to fill the tank.
One last thing if you follow a tube off the compressor head to a junction on the trank with a large brass nut on it, this is where the pressure valve is for the no load start.
there is a little rubber diaphram in there and a spring , just make sure its not stuck
common fault
also i would make a plywood frame to go over them pulleys for safety .

yes both motors wired separately it would be difficult to start both together extra long arms or such
I do not believe I have a problem with the pressure switch yet
I know where the no load start valve is, I was told earlier in this thread but I do not believe that is the problem as both pressure switches hiss when cut off manually or automatically no I cant say that, the one with the problem I have never let cut itself off I have always done it manually
The pulleys at the moment are as seen in the pic but there home is against a wall below a very hefty shelf and if I ever get this running to my satisfaction I will look into proper pulley guards but please don't get me on a health and safety subject at this moment in time if people did not take risks we would still be in the trees Chris

 

[chrisf1]

I know you now have connected to the cooker feed, but how do you have them connected and with what size cable, Firstly before removing the motor, with your multimeter check that you have the full voltage at the motor terminals when running if you have a clamp on meter you could measure the draw as well and then do the same with just the one running as the 4hp one draws quite a bit more current than the 3hp one, I would expect the bigger one to play up if you have supply problems

Hi sorry for not replying directly earlier but I have a spur from the 32amp trip going to a 45amp switch and then on to the compressor I have a friendly neighborhood sparks who checked it and said it was up to spec Chris

 

[rtbcomp]

......, the other continued running for a couple of minutes on its own then locked up .....

I've just had the pump on my Clarke lock up after I moved it.

Tightenening the belt seems to have fixed it.

What I think happened was that as pressure increased the belt slipped momentarily, enought to stall the pump. The belt then caught again, but stalled the motor instead of turning the already stalled pump.

I think a new belt is called for, this is the 2nd time I've had to tighten it in a couple of months.

 

[chrisf1]

I don't think that is the case with mine the motor was running full pelt the belt is tight and 4hp motor driving it 1hp over spec I think I have got to bite the bullet and replace the pump unfortunately they are £200.00 + which I do not have at the moment so it is on the back burner until funds increase it is running on 1 anyway thanks Chris

 

[arceyered]

yes both motors wired separately it would be difficult to start both together extra long arms or such
I do not believe I have a problem with the pressure switch yet
I know where the no load start valve is, I was told earlier in this thread but I do not believe that is the problem as both pressure switches hiss when cut off manually or automatically no I cant say that, the one with the problem I have never let cut itself off I have always done it manually
The pulleys at the moment are as seen in the pic but there home is against a wall below a very hefty shelf and if I ever get this running to my satisfaction I will look into proper pulley guards but please don't get me on a health and safety subject at this moment in time if people did not take risks we would still be in the trees Chris

On initial start up the pump will start up and pump the empty tank up to pressure as regulated by the cut out valve. the tank pressure will then close the no load start valve Mine was a ball bearing and a spring in the pipe,if this is stuck open it will put the top of the piston at tank pressure and therefore the motor will not be able to turn the pump.
this was the problem on my compressor changed the ball and spring and it was fine.

The capacitor is a phase shift get the details of the other one

hope this helps

 

[chrisf1]

Hi the problem is definitely the pump it makes more exspensive sounding noises every time I try and convince myself it is something else and run it again to test my theories but for the moment it is running OK on 1 pump and a kind gentleman Andy from the forum has told me he has one laying in his shed that I can have hopefuly I will be getting it shortly thanks Chris

 

[bonepyro]

Hi Chris,

I hear from my man you picked up the pump. I hope this helps you out.

As I said in the PM, if this works, pay the favour forward (or send me a box of Peroni through the same channel the pump got to you! )

Keep us posted how things progress.

Andy

 

[chrisf1]

Hi Andy and thanks again for the pump I am going to strip it and also mine as soon as I can find a way to plug the compressor up so it is still usable and with any luck I will be able to make a good one from the 2 I believe your one is a newer model of the same make as mine so most of the internals will hopefully be interchangeable Many thanks once again and good luck to you Chris

 

[bonepyro]

hi Chris,

This may be a daft question, but if (and that is an open question) the one I gave you works, can you not just bolt that onto the tank, and plumb it in and run with that? Do you need to make the original work?

I believe it was fitted with 3hp rated motor on the original unit.

Andy

 

[chrisf1]

That may well happen if on inspection all is OK but it must come apart first to turn the cylinder head the other way they do actually turn 180 Degrees and then the inlet and exhaust should match up to my pipework once again many thanks Andy Chris

 

[chrisf1]

Hi again everyone and Andy if you are looking, as you may have gathered Andy has given me an airmark pump for which I am very grateful and today I stripped it for checkout and clean up I have taken some pictures which I will attach. The strip down was quite easy but I only went as far as as bores and heads off as when i got there I could feel no play in journals so I am hoping I have been in time to save it as there was more water than oil in it and as you will see by the pics it has surface rusted the crank which I have washed out and blown dry but when you see the rust you will be able to imagine how much water there was in it anyway I have got it all as clean as I can and reassembled with the head on the other way round to match up with the plumbing on the compressor it is intended for the only thing that worried me on reassembly was the small tin reed valves I believe they are called because 2 sat nicely in the slots they came from and the other 2 I could only place them on the marks they had left on the plate because to fit in the recesses like the other would have meant they would have to defy gravity which they were not going to do anyway it is now back together and awaiting fitting, oil, and a test run. Andy I have not been able to see the differences but mine is a 10 series and yours is an 11 numbers stamped on bores but what the difference is I could not tell you anyway here are the pics Chris

 

[rtbcomp]

Re running with one pump.

You should be able to take one pump off and leave the other in place as long as you leave the non-return valve that connects the delivery pipe to the tank in situ.

 

[chrisf1]

Hi RBT (bessy mate) I will now not take the other one off until I am ready to fit this one probably next week sometime and then it is fingers crossed, anyone got any opinions as to if I will get away with this or not after seeing the inside of the replacement Chris

 

[chrisf1]

Hi Andy and everyone else the ongoing saga of this beast continues it will be a book before long, anyway I started on it today and removed the old pump and pulled the pulley wheel off and then stood it next to the one Andy very kindly sent me, I will not say anymore just look at the picture boy do I feel an idiot Chris

 

[chrisf1]

Hi again everyone I would just like to add if anyone is in need of the smaller pump it is there's for the asking free gratis as it came to me from Andy, I believe the pump which can be seen apart ealier in this post to be serviceable there is no play in the journals the bores and rings are good and it is definitely oil and watertight. I hope it can get someone out of trouble Chris