I have just purchased a Boxford Lathe

[Hopefuldave]

I'd go with the green one, looks like it's sturdier with heftier contacts?
If it's as the first pic a few posts ago, supply wiring:
take incoming live to both of the two closest to the lever on one side, skip one, incoming neutral to the next.
Motor wiring;
beep out the 4 terminals to get continuity through each winding, one leg of one winding across to the incoming neutral (so leave it longer!) Other leg to the other side of the pair nearest the lever (so it gets live in either forward or reverse).
Other winding goes to the other two opposite where the incoming live and neutral are, so they're swapped between live and neutral for forward and reverse.
If forward and reverse are wrong way round, swap the last two from the motor over to get the right directions.

Don't forget to put a fuse somewhere (in the plug?), warning neon or 240v lamp across incoming live and neutral, could be a Good Thing to put an easily-accessible *normally-closed* twist-to-reset emergency stop mushroom button in the incoming live so your nearest and dearest don't have to work out how to stop it while dodging flailing limbs and stepping over your remains - the wet flapping noises can really annoy them.

Should work, let us know if it doesn't!

Dave H. (the other one)

 

[123hotchef]

I'd go with the green one, looks like it's sturdier with heftier contacts?
If it's as the first pic a few posts ago, supply wiring:
take incoming live to both of the two closest to the lever on one side, skip one, incoming neutral to the next.
Motor wiring;
beep out the 4 terminals to get continuity through each winding, one leg of one winding across to the incoming neutral (so leave it longer!) Other leg to the other side of the pair nearest the lever (so it gets live in either forward or reverse).
Other winding goes to the other two opposite where the incoming live and neutral are, so they're swapped between live and neutral for forward and reverse.
If forward and reverse are wrong way round, swap the last two from the motor over to get the right directions.

Don't forget to put a fuse somewhere (in the plug?), warning neon or 240v lamp across incoming live and neutral, could be a Good Thing to put an easily-accessible *normally-closed* twist-to-reset emergency stop mushroom button in the incoming live so your nearest and dearest don't have to work out how to stop it while dodging flailing limbs and stepping over your remains - the wet flapping noises can really annoy them.

Should work, let us know if it doesn't!

Dave H. (the other one)

Thanks but you lost me after the motor bit.

I will keep the cut out switch and have this before the forward reverse switch for the safety aspect.

How many wires will I need to run to the motor from this switch 5 or 6

 

[123hotchef]

I think i need a diagram

 

[Hopefuldave]

4 wires to the motor (pair for run winding, pair for start winding), plus live and neutral from the cut out switch is what that drum switch needs - I'll CarpoCAD one, hang on a bit...

Dave H. (the other one)

 

[123hotchef]

no rush mate job for another day!

 

[Hopefuldave]

Here you go, live (brown - note the link between the terminals, vital or the motor'll just sit there and buzz/smoke)) and neutral (blue!) in from your cut out switch on the left, two separate coils on the right - buzz them out with a meter to get the right terminals in the motor junction box, Robert's one's parent's sibling.

Don't forget the earth to the motor casing (and drum switch housing if it's metal)!

Dave H. (the other one)

 

[123hotchef]

Here you go, live (brown - note the link between the terminals, vital or the motor'll just sit there and buzz/smoke)) and neutral (blue!) in from your cut out switch on the left, two separate coils on the right - buzz them out with a meter to get the right terminals in the motor junction box, Robert's one's parent's sibling.

Don't forget the earth to the motor casing (and drum switch housing if it's metal)!

View attachment 187249
Dave H. (the other one)

Thanks for the drawing. What about the start cap.

 

[123hotchef]

That is my motor.

 

[123hotchef]

@Hopefuldave strange the motor has 5 studs most have 4 do they not

 

[123hotchef]

@123hotchef

The front grease cover is relieved to provide a locking diameter. A collar is made which is a close fit on the spindle diameter and backplate spigot. No dimensions I'm afraid, just photos.
The collar looks to be held on to the backplate by a single grub screw. When the clamp screw is tightened it grips both the backplate spigot and spindle.


View attachment 185930 View attachment 185931 View attachment 185932 View attachment 185933 View attachment 185934

I removed the grease cover to machine it down but decided I need another lathe to machine it down on! Because if I turn the lathe on with the cover removed I shall loose all of the grease!

So is there anyone close who can machine this down please? its only ali so should be easy. Or shall I do it without the cover fitted? I dont think it is a good idea.

 

[Brad93]

I removed the grease cover to machine it down but decided I need another lathe to machine it down on! Because if I turn the lathe on with the cover removed I shall loose all of the grease!

So is there anyone close who can machine this down please? its only ali so should be easy. Or shall I do it without the cover fitted? I dont think it is a good idea.

I would do it for you mate but I don’t have a 4 jaw to clock it in

 

[Brad93]

Unless @rory1 has a minute to post the chuck he has? I know he has been busy.

 

[Seadog]

It doesn't need to be clocked in, it's only a facing operation. If it's slightly off centre, so what?

 

[Pete.]

You could bring it over to mine and turn it.

 

[rory1]

Il get on it tommorow brad. Sorry for the delay. It’s that time of year

Unless @rory1 has a minute to post the chuck he has? I know he has been busy.

 

[123hotchef]

You could bring it over to mine and turn it.

Thanks Pete I might take you up on that kind offer.

 

[123hotchef]

Here you go, live (brown - note the link between the terminals, vital or the motor'll just sit there and buzz/smoke)) and neutral (blue!) in from your cut out switch on the left, two separate coils on the right - buzz them out with a meter to get the right terminals in the motor junction box, Robert's one's parent's sibling.

Don't forget the earth to the motor casing (and drum switch housing if it's metal)!

View attachment 187249
Dave H. (the other one)

Still trying to get my head around this wiring and how it works

 

[Hopefuldave]

Ok...
First a couple of questions:
How many capacitors on the motor? Tin cans, usually under a cover on the outside.
Do you have a multimeter, preferably a proper one with a needle, not digital, with ohms ranges?
Does the terminal cover have a diagram in it, if so post a pic?

Single-phase motors are reversed by swapping "polarity" of ONE of the two windings, doesn't matter which - it reverses the direction of the rotating magnetic field from the motor stator.

Your 5 terminals present the main winding on 2 of em, with meter on ohms those two will show a steady reading of a few ohms on a low ohms range, e.g. 3 ohms on the 100 or 200 ohm range. The start winding will show slightly more, e.g. 5 ohms on 2 other terminals..
Now, with the meter set on a high ohms range, the leftover terminal will be the start/run capacitors and you'll get a "kick" on the meter (and a bigger one if you reverse the prods) to one of the start winding terminals - this goes through the capacitors and centrifugal switch that disconnects the start cap once running.
The terminal connecting start windings and cap you leave as it is, the other start terminal and the far end of the capacitors you use as one coil in the CarpoCAD drawing (and will still give a meter kick), the remaining two terminals as the other.

Dave H. (the other one)

 

[123hotchef]

Ok...
First a couple of questions:
How many capacitors on the motor? Tin cans, usually under a cover on the outside.
Do you have a multimeter, preferably a proper one with a needle, not digital, with ohms ranges?
Does the terminal cover have a diagram in it, if so post a pic?

Single-phase motors are reversed by swapping "polarity" of ONE of the two windings, doesn't matter which - it reverses the direction of the rotating magnetic field from the motor stator.

Your 5 terminals present the main winding on 2 of em, with meter on ohms those two will show a steady reading of a few ohms on a low ohms range, e.g. 3 ohms on the 100 or 200 ohm range. The start winding will show slightly more, e.g. 5 ohms on 2 other terminals..
Now, with the meter set on a high ohms range, the leftover terminal will be the start/run capacitors and you'll get a "kick" on the meter (and a bigger one if you reverse the prods) to one of the start winding terminals - this goes through the capacitors and centrifugal switch that disconnects the start cap once running.
The terminal connecting start windings and cap you leave as it is, the other start terminal and the far end of the capacitors you use as one coil in the CarpoCAD drawing (and will still give a meter kick), the remaining two terminals as the other.

Dave H. (the other one)

Great that clears things up for me, I have a few multi meters all digital ones though.
No the terminal cover has no diagram unfortunatly
There is only the one cap.

I dont understand this part?
The terminal connecting start windings and cap you leave as it is, the other start terminal and the far end of the capacitors you use as one coil in the CarpoCAD drawing (and will still give a meter kick), the remaining two terminals as the other.

 

[123hotchef]

just purchased a secondhand bearing grease cover from ebay £25 so I can turn it down myself! result

no just to get the switch wired up!