I have just purchased a Boxford Lathe

123hotchef · Jul 31, 2019

would you turn it in the 3 jaw or on a face plate

eLuSiVeMiTe · Jul 31, 2019

123hotchef said:
would you turn it in the 3 jaw or on a face plate

Looking at the part would be a 3/4jaw.
Wouldn't be easy to mount on a faceplate

123hotchef · Jul 31, 2019

eLuSiVeMiTe said:
Looking at the part would be a 3/4jaw.
Wouldn't be easy to mount on a faceplate

3 jaw will be fine! never used a face plate they are in the rust tank as we speak. what kind of mounting hardware do i need for the faceplates? or is it anything goes

eLuSiVeMiTe · Jul 31, 2019

123hotchef said:
3 jaw will be fine! never used a face plate they are in the rust tank as we speak. what kind of mounting hardware do i need for the faceplates? or is it anything goes

Whatever gets the job done.

Have a t slot plate for mine. Should come in handy.

123hotchef · Jul 31, 2019

Funny I don't see the pics I uploaded.

eLuSiVeMiTe · Jul 31, 2019

Neither did I. Flicked back to seadogs post to look.

123hotchef · Jul 31, 2019

eLuSiVeMiTe said:
Whatever gets the job done.

Have a t slot plate for mine. Should come in handy.

er i need to look closer at mine tomorrow when i pull them out of the tank no T slots but I have a T plat that colud bolt onto the face plate

123hotchef · Jul 31, 2019

eLuSiVeMiTe said:
Neither did I. Flicked back to seadogs post to look.

here they are, any way i will have a spare if i mess it up not likely though spares are good

eLuSiVeMiTe · Jul 31, 2019

123hotchef said:
er i need to look closer at mine tomorrow when i pull them out of the tank no T slots but I have a T plat that colud bolt onto the face plate

Normally just holes for mounting nuts etc.
Have one of each.

123hotchef · Jul 31, 2019

i have 2 both just have long slots for bolts iirc

Hopefuldave · Jul 31, 2019

123hotchef said:
Great that clears things up for me, I have a few multi meters all digital ones though.
No the terminal cover has no diagram unfortunatly
There is only the one cap.

I dont understand this part?
The terminal connecting start windings and cap you leave as it is, the other start terminal and the far end of the capacitors you use as one coil in the CarpoCAD drawing (and will still give a meter kick), the remaining two terminals as the other.

You have 5 terminals, 2 of them only connect to each other, that's the run winding, meter will read open circuit (OL on most digital meters on ohms) to the other three.

The other 3... there'll be two that show a low resistance, that's the start winding - BUT for it to work, that needs the capacitor attached to one end of it (you may find one of the run winding terminals has 2 wires on it, that's likely to be where the cap attaches - if so, leave them connected, dont connect it to the drum switch, and connect the other two of those three terminals to the drum switch).

Dave H. (the other one)

123hotchef · Jul 31, 2019

Hopefuldave said:
You have 5 terminals, 2 of them only connect to each other, that's the run winding, meter will read open circuit (OL on most digital meters on ohms) to the other three.

The other 3... there'll be two that show a low resistance, that's the start winding - BUT for it to work, that needs the capacitor attached to one end of it (you may find one of the run winding terminals has 2 wires on it, that's likely to be where the cap attaches - if so, leave them connected, dont connect it to the drum switch, and connect the other two of those three terminals to the drum switch).

Dave H. (the other one)

thanks Dave, I think I need another drawing pretty please!?

Hopefuldave · Jul 31, 2019

123hotchef said:
thanks Dave, I think I need another drawing pretty please!?

Just take the CarpoCAD, one box is the run winding, the other is the start AND capacitor in series, doesn't matter which gets reversed in the drum switch.

Dave H. (the other one)

123hotchef · Jul 31, 2019

Hopefuldave said:
Here you go, live (brown - note the link between the terminals, vital or the motor'll just sit there and buzz/smoke)) and neutral (blue!) in from your cut out switch on the left, two separate coils on the right - buzz them out with a meter to get the right terminals in the motor junction box, Robert's one's parent's sibling.

Don't forget the earth to the motor casing (and drum switch housing if it's metal)!

View attachment 187249
Dave H. (the other one)

so only one winding needs reversing the start winding?

Hopefuldave · Jul 31, 2019

123hotchef said:
so only one winding needs reversing the start winding?

Exactly - if you reverse both it runs the same way, instead.

How it does it: this may not come across well...

There are two windings In the motor casing, divided into pairs of poles (like the poles of a magnet), the a.c. in them makes each pair swap north and south 50 x a second - if this was all that happened it'd just sit there and buzz.
What we want is the field between poles to rotate in the motor, so one winding is fed through the capacitor, which shifts the timing of the a.c.- now we have a lag, and if we could see it the field would progress around the motor poles, run winding - start - run - start etc. and the field would rotate. This field cuts through the rotor winding (actually a bunch of sturdy bars joined at each end, usually) and cos of electromagnetism this makes a current flow in the rotor so it makes its own field that pushes back against the rotating field - the rotor then starts moving *almost* as fast as the field from the stator.

If we swap one of the coil polarities the stator field rotates in the opposite direction and so does the rotor!

Dave H. (the other one)

123hotchef · Jul 31, 2019

so the cap can go on either one of these two windings

Hopefuldave · Jul 31, 2019

123hotchef said:
so the cap can go on either one of these two windings

Nope, leave it connected to whichever it's on now, the cap and winding are sort of an item as there's probably a centrifugal switch on the start winding, you want that as otherwise the cap will do it's RAF chaff launcher impression.

Either winding in the pic is the one with the cap already on it. Either can be the one the switch reverses.

Dave H. (the other one)

123hotchef · Jul 31, 2019

i get that part the switch will turn the cap off so to speak, what i am overthinking is how many wires i need to split/run ffrom the switch to the motor, I think the drawing confused me!

Hopefuldave · Jul 31, 2019

4 wires plus earth, 2 for each winding - three to the motor side of the switch, one back to the incoming neutral from the isolator or whatever upstream of the switch.

Dave H. (the other one)

Hopefuldave · Jul 31, 2019

Give it a go, worst you'll do it blow a fuse

I have just purchased a Boxford Lathe

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