slim_boy_fat
Member
- Messages
- 29,540
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
@Seadog I'm liking this, at this rate you'll be vying with @spencer 427 for the title of 'Best Producer of Beautiful Restorations' 
- Thread starter Seadog
- Start date
duncans
Member
- Messages
- 747
- Location
- leicester
is Mrs won't be happy if he took those pans out of her kitchen she would hit him over the head with them hehe
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
- Messages
- 12,342
- Location
- NE London - UK
@Seadog I'm liking this, at this rate you'll be vying with @spencer 427 for the title of 'Best Producer of Beautiful Restorations'
I don't think it'll reach that level Slim. I probably won't get as far as painting it, although I'd love to. Too many other things to get going.
My brain is currently in meltdown because I've spent the last four hours trying to work out how to accurately position the damaged rod for boring. I only have a lathe and a pillar drill and a recently acquired boring head. Plus odd milling slides and some long travel DTIs.
I might have to pop into "The Bar" for a couple to relax
slim_boy_fat
Member
- Messages
- 29,540
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
I might have to pop into "The Bar" for a couple to relax
Oh well, that'll put an end to playing with pointy, spinny things for the day [or it should
] 
the artfull-codger
Member
- Messages
- 481
- Location
- north yorkshire england
I don't think it'll reach that level Slim. I probably won't get as far as painting it, although I'd love to. Too many other things to get going.
My brain is currently in meltdown because I've spent the last four hours trying to work out how to accurately position the damaged rod for boring. I only have a lathe and a pillar drill and a recently acquired boring head. Plus odd milling slides and some long travel DTIs.
I might have to pop into "The Bar" for a couple to relax
I built my compressor 45 yrs ago, it has an air brake compressor pump from a green godess [twin cylinder],about 30 yrs ago it started knocking, on stripdown one of the big en bearings had melted with a little pile of white metal in the crankcase bottom, no shells white metal direct into the rod & strap,I made a jig up & poured white metal into the rod & cap undersize,then bolted them together & clamped them onto the faceplate locating it parallel with a turned spacer bolted through the small end to the faceplate, & bored them out a tight fit onto the crank bearing,finally blueing & scraping in, I then noticed a piece of brass swarf on the oil pump return ball valve which had caused the oil pump to fail,fast forward 30 yrs & it's still going strong if you can get your conn rod onto your faceplate you could bore it out oversize & turn up a replacement bronze bush. just one of a number of ways of doing it [it worked for me]. good luck.
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
- Messages
- 12,342
- Location
- NE London - UK
Well today's antics kept me in the workshop for about eight hours. definitely feeling like an early night now.
First up find a piece of bronze to make a bush from
I'm sure there's something in here. Yup, there it is...
Next up carry on trying to find the expanding mandrel that you know you have, and that you have already spent an hour looking for the previous day, going through the same drawers and boxes like a mad thing. A night's rest and I remembered where it could be - and yes, it was in a box I'd looked in but not delved to the bottom of
It's too small, but a bit of thin ali formed around a rod takes care of that little problem
Into the lathe with it and decide on a dimension. It's a toss up between making the bush a reasonable thickness and not weakening the small end eye too much. Dimension decide on is 0.925" I hit 0.9249" so that's good enough.
Now for the real puzzler, how to machine the small end, in fact how to position it so that I can accurately machine it on centre. There's quite a lot wear, mainly top to bottom.
My first idea was that the rods may be identical, at least in a place that I can use as a reference, so that I can set the machine up using the good rod and then swap it for the damaged one to do the machining.
They seem pretty close. There is a gudgeon pin fitted which is obscured by the square.
The idea is to set the good up on my milling slide using a centring piece for the big end eye and a stop against the side of the rod. I can't use my faceplate because the swing of the Boxford isn't big enough.
A scrap piece of acrylic seems like it might do the job.
I set up the good rod and then offered up the damaged one. That's one idea down the pan
A good idea in theory, but in practice the damaged rod ended up well off centre. Time for a rethink
First up find a piece of bronze to make a bush from
I'm sure there's something in here. Yup, there it is...
Next up carry on trying to find the expanding mandrel that you know you have, and that you have already spent an hour looking for the previous day, going through the same drawers and boxes like a mad thing. A night's rest and I remembered where it could be - and yes, it was in a box I'd looked in but not delved to the bottom of
It's too small, but a bit of thin ali formed around a rod takes care of that little problem
Into the lathe with it and decide on a dimension. It's a toss up between making the bush a reasonable thickness and not weakening the small end eye too much. Dimension decide on is 0.925" I hit 0.9249" so that's good enough.
Now for the real puzzler, how to machine the small end, in fact how to position it so that I can accurately machine it on centre. There's quite a lot wear, mainly top to bottom.
My first idea was that the rods may be identical, at least in a place that I can use as a reference, so that I can set the machine up using the good rod and then swap it for the damaged one to do the machining.
They seem pretty close. There is a gudgeon pin fitted which is obscured by the square.
The idea is to set the good up on my milling slide using a centring piece for the big end eye and a stop against the side of the rod. I can't use my faceplate because the swing of the Boxford isn't big enough.
A scrap piece of acrylic seems like it might do the job.
I set up the good rod and then offered up the damaged one. That's one idea down the pan
A good idea in theory, but in practice the damaged rod ended up well off centre. Time for a rethink
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
- Messages
- 12,342
- Location
- NE London - UK
I decided that the basic idea was sound it was just that the way I was attacking the problem was the issue.
Round 2:
Centre the perfect gudgeon pin in my 4-jaw, since I only have an ER32 collet set.
Offer up the good rod and set the centres and, since I'd decided there was insufficient wear to give any appreciable error (it is only a low revving pump after all), pop the damaged rod on and set about clamping it. Believe me, there were a good few iterations of this before I finally decided on a method that would work and, if necessary would allow me to re-centre the rod should I need to remove it to press in the bush. The only feature that I could use was the oil hole in the small end which,, on this rod, was on the centre line ( it isn't on the other rod, probably due to the way that oil is thrown about by the finger on the centre rod.
Now, how to use it as a locating feature?
Thinks, a spring loaded plunger might do the job. Where am I going to get one of those, I wonder? Light bulb moment, the dividing head attachment has one...
After that it was a succession of fiddling and cursing whilst try to hold toolmakers clamps, slip gauges for shimming, and anything else that I could use to do the job.
This setup, perhaps unsurprisingly to some, allowed too much flexing especially near the centre of the eye since there were some really hard spots. The rod was jumping all over the place.
I decided to lock all gibs down tightly on the milling slide and my taper slide, and then added some additional support once I'd found some T-nuts that I'd forgotten I had (the old motor mounting bolts)
The setup below still had too much flex.
This was the final arrangement and seemed to be fine.
Right, out with the boring head and find a piece of tooling to do the job.
Fortunately I bought a "Tenth Set" boring head not that long ago on eBay for about £20, so quite pleased with myself. that is until it came to finding a piece to make the cutter. I've loads of tool steel rounds, thinks I, I'm bound to find one in here
Will I Hell. 1/4" and 3/8", the head takes 5/16"
I went through all of my bins of end mills, around 300 of them - zilch.
After much digging and swearing, apart from a broken centre drill, that was too short I could only find a counterbore that I've had for donkey's years.
Anyway, out with the cutting disc, loop it down to a usable length and grind back one of the edges to give a reasonable profile. And it worked
I started by feeding right to left but had all sorts of jumping and graunching when the aforementioned hard spots were hit so had to back off the speed and the feed.
It must be a really good quality piece of bronze since it dulled the edge of the cutter, but a quick stoning restored it.
It was then that I decided to try reverse feeding which, combined with a reduced depth of cut did the job.
Tomorrow's decision: Do I mount the new bush in my four jaw and bore out excess material? I'm pretty certain the setup I have is repeatable even if I take the milling slide off, which I will have to do. Or do I spend an hour or more boring out an 3/16" of bronze with the boring head?
Let me sleep on it
Round 2:
Centre the perfect gudgeon pin in my 4-jaw, since I only have an ER32 collet set.
Offer up the good rod and set the centres and, since I'd decided there was insufficient wear to give any appreciable error (it is only a low revving pump after all), pop the damaged rod on and set about clamping it. Believe me, there were a good few iterations of this before I finally decided on a method that would work and, if necessary would allow me to re-centre the rod should I need to remove it to press in the bush. The only feature that I could use was the oil hole in the small end which,, on this rod, was on the centre line ( it isn't on the other rod, probably due to the way that oil is thrown about by the finger on the centre rod.
Now, how to use it as a locating feature?
Thinks, a spring loaded plunger might do the job. Where am I going to get one of those, I wonder? Light bulb moment, the dividing head attachment has one...After that it was a succession of fiddling and cursing whilst try to hold toolmakers clamps, slip gauges for shimming, and anything else that I could use to do the job.
This setup, perhaps unsurprisingly to some, allowed too much flexing especially near the centre of the eye since there were some really hard spots. The rod was jumping all over the place.
I decided to lock all gibs down tightly on the milling slide and my taper slide, and then added some additional support once I'd found some T-nuts that I'd forgotten I had (the old motor mounting bolts
)The setup below still had too much flex.
This was the final arrangement and seemed to be fine.
Right, out with the boring head and find a piece of tooling to do the job.
Fortunately I bought a "Tenth Set" boring head not that long ago on eBay for about £20, so quite pleased with myself. that is until it came to finding a piece to make the cutter. I've loads of tool steel rounds, thinks I, I'm bound to find one in here
Will I Hell. 1/4" and 3/8", the head takes 5/16"
I went through all of my bins of end mills, around 300 of them - zilch.
After much digging and swearing, apart from a broken centre drill, that was too short I could only find a counterbore that I've had for donkey's years.
Anyway, out with the cutting disc, loop it down to a usable length and grind back one of the edges to give a reasonable profile. And it worked
I started by feeding right to left but had all sorts of jumping and graunching when the aforementioned hard spots were hit so had to back off the speed and the feed.
It must be a really good quality piece of bronze since it dulled the edge of the cutter, but a quick stoning restored it.
It was then that I decided to try reverse feeding which, combined with a reduced depth of cut did the job.
Tomorrow's decision: Do I mount the new bush in my four jaw and bore out excess material? I'm pretty certain the setup I have is repeatable even if I take the milling slide off, which I will have to do. Or do I spend an hour or more boring out an 3/16" of bronze with the boring head?
Let me sleep on it
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
- Messages
- 12,342
- Location
- NE London - UK
More on my reason for boring in reverse, which I forgot to mention last night.
Because of the hard spots in the conrod, I was getting necking at around the mid point that was very noticeable when I stuck my digit inside to feel the finish. As near as I could make out, with my telescopic gauges, it was was about 0.008". Definitely not acceptable.
By reversing the feed the incident angle of the cutter was gentler due to how I'd backed off the cutting edge, more of a shearing or skiving action, and this removed the unevenness within three or four passes.
I did wake up with a slight nagging doubt in my head. It was "Is the table square?"
I set it to the face of the chuck using a 123 block, thus
Whereas, of course, any "proper" machinist would have clocked it
The first job today, then, will be to do just that. Since I've only one direction to worry about, the X-axis, I can make of use of my very-long-travel Mitutoyo DTI to return it to the correct position. I hope
Because of the hard spots in the conrod, I was getting necking at around the mid point that was very noticeable when I stuck my digit inside to feel the finish. As near as I could make out, with my telescopic gauges, it was was about 0.008". Definitely not acceptable.
By reversing the feed the incident angle of the cutter was gentler due to how I'd backed off the cutting edge, more of a shearing or skiving action, and this removed the unevenness within three or four passes.
I did wake up with a slight nagging doubt in my head. It was "Is the table square?"
I set it to the face of the chuck using a 123 block, thus
Whereas, of course, any "proper" machinist would have clocked it
The first job today, then, will be to do just that. Since I've only one direction to worry about, the X-axis, I can make of use of my very-long-travel Mitutoyo DTI to return it to the correct position. I hope
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
- Messages
- 12,342
- Location
- NE London - UK
I spent quite a lot of time this morning setting up to check the parallelism, or not, of my milling attachment.
I got to use more bits and pieces that I've never used before
I got to use the beautiful Mercer DTI stand that a friend gave me in 1988
And of course two DTI's
The first I got from Spancer, ages ago, repaired and made a new contact tip.
The second was a bargain from eBay or Home Workshop, I can't remember which, and was £28.
Anyway, the runout was 0.002"
BUT, that was in the first half inch of travel. After that it was stable. It transpired that there was some light marking on the table which caused the false reading.
The upshot was that everything was square...but it would be wouldn't it? After poncing around the realisation hit me.
If you recall, I used a gudgeon pin in the four jaw to align first the good rod and then the damaged one
What a waste of about two and a half hours that was. A lot of that time was trying to work out how to get various bits of random measuring kit to bolt together. Oh, for some standardization.
If you recall my post from earlier, I was musing on whether or not to remove the milling slide so that I could hog some excess metal out of the new bush. It occurred to me while I was frigging about setting up the aforementioned dog's dinner that there was no way I would ever get it back and in perfect alignment.
Right, time to fit the bush (no pictures, you'll be glad to hear).
The bored out small end was wiped with acetone, the new bush retrieved from the freezer and given similar treatment, some bearing fit applied and I expected it to slip in (due to some weird dimension that I thought I'd measured last night).
It didn't Cue rapid removal of rod from the jig to enable me to squeeze it all together in the vice.
Well, it all went back together and certainly seemed to line up, by eye, so I set about trimming then end to more or less the right length.
That worked quite well, after a fashion, but I managed to do it with two passes.
Next up was to bore it to size. There was something like 0.2" of material to remove, but it machined very nicely and I was able to run at a high tool speed and feed rate with a slight higher DOC. In all it only took me around twenty minutes to reach the point where I was going to creep up on the finished dimension very slowly.
Two things happened at this point.
The first was that I adjusted the boring head, distracted myslef with something probably irrelevant, went back to the lathe and put more feed on
The result of that will be evident shortly.
The second was that I checked the bore at both ends of the bush, expecting it to be the same, and found a taper of about 0.005"
I had reverted to feeding into the bush and as I've already said, it was cutting beautifully, and leaving a fantastic finish. Completely bemused by this I decided to try cutting in reverse again. Within two passes the taper had disappeared
Anyway, we managed to finish the job and the sliding fit was perfect and had just sufficient play to allow for some oil (probably a thou.)
For my encore I decided to refit the 4-jaw, which still had the gudgeon pin set up in it, to see if it was still aligned.
You know what?
It was. More joyful dancing around the workshop ensued.
Here's a close up of the small end with the slight faux pas
That's 0.014" over size but I've decided that it's going to do and will probably see me out. Sometimes you've got to quit while you're ahead.
After a bit of light file work to dress each side of the rod and drilling the oil hole in the top we are now in the position to start cleaning things prior to reassembly.
One little problem became apparent once I got onto the cylinder heads.
See if you can spot it.
That's all for tonight folks.
À demain.
I'm off to the virtual pub.
I got to use more bits and pieces that I've never used before
I got to use the beautiful Mercer DTI stand that a friend gave me in 1988
And of course two DTI's
The first I got from Spancer, ages ago, repaired and made a new contact tip.
The second was a bargain from eBay or Home Workshop, I can't remember which, and was £28.
Anyway, the runout was 0.002"
BUT, that was in the first half inch of travel. After that it was stable. It transpired that there was some light marking on the table which caused the false reading.
The upshot was that everything was square...but it would be wouldn't it? After poncing around the realisation hit me.
If you recall, I used a gudgeon pin in the four jaw to align first the good rod and then the damaged one
What a waste of about two and a half hours that was. A lot of that time was trying to work out how to get various bits of random measuring kit to bolt together. Oh, for some standardization.
If you recall my post from earlier, I was musing on whether or not to remove the milling slide so that I could hog some excess metal out of the new bush. It occurred to me while I was frigging about setting up the aforementioned dog's dinner that there was no way I would ever get it back and in perfect alignment.
Right, time to fit the bush (no pictures, you'll be glad to hear).
The bored out small end was wiped with acetone, the new bush retrieved from the freezer and given similar treatment, some bearing fit applied and I expected it to slip in (due to some weird dimension that I thought I'd measured last night).
It didn't
Cue rapid removal of rod from the jig to enable me to squeeze it all together in the vice.Well, it all went back together and certainly seemed to line up, by eye, so I set about trimming then end to more or less the right length.
That worked quite well, after a fashion, but I managed to do it with two passes.
Next up was to bore it to size. There was something like 0.2" of material to remove, but it machined very nicely and I was able to run at a high tool speed and feed rate with a slight higher DOC. In all it only took me around twenty minutes to reach the point where I was going to creep up on the finished dimension very slowly.
Two things happened at this point.
The first was that I adjusted the boring head, distracted myslef with something probably irrelevant, went back to the lathe and put more feed on
The result of that will be evident shortly.The second was that I checked the bore at both ends of the bush, expecting it to be the same, and found a taper of about 0.005"
I had reverted to feeding into the bush and as I've already said, it was cutting beautifully, and leaving a fantastic finish. Completely bemused by this I decided to try cutting in reverse again. Within two passes the taper had disappeared
Anyway, we managed to finish the job and the sliding fit was perfect and had just sufficient play to allow for some oil (probably a thou.)
For my encore I decided to refit the 4-jaw, which still had the gudgeon pin set up in it, to see if it was still aligned.
You know what?
It was. More joyful dancing around the workshop ensued.
Here's a close up of the small end with the slight faux pas
That's 0.014" over size but I've decided that it's going to do and will probably see me out. Sometimes you've got to quit while you're ahead.
After a bit of light file work to dress each side of the rod and drilling the oil hole in the top we are now in the position to start cleaning things prior to reassembly.
One little problem became apparent once I got onto the cylinder heads.
See if you can spot it.
That's all for tonight folks.
À demain.
I'm off to the virtual pub.
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
- Messages
- 12,342
- Location
- NE London - UK
Not a lot has happened the last couple of days, mainly due to waiting for parts to arrive.
I've been de-greasing stuff, ready for the re-assembly, but finally, today, the long awaited crankshaft oil seal arrived
The old one wasn't badly worn and as a rule, I always replace seals. However, this is a rather odd size, 1-53/64" or 1.811" OD. Did it need to be replaced? I had a close look at the old one and discovered a nick in the lip. Whether this was something that I'd done when removing it, and it was bloody tight, or whether or not it was old damage, I've no way of knowing. The upshot was that I decide that I had to find a replacement. The only one I could find was 1.880" OD. C'est la vie!
Thus ensued another hour or two's pondering as to how I could mount and machine this. On the face of it, it would be a simple task to mount it on a faceplate and bore it: if you have a good selection of parallels and T-nuts, that is. I don't have those luxuries ( on the list of bits to acquire).
Thus, we ended up with the milling attachment for the second time in this saga
It seemed uncannily easy to centre this up using my very old Starrett plunger gauge and a previously ignored magnetic stand. It's actually really good and sticks better than a couple of Eclipse DTI stands that I have. A quick eyeball once it was central showed that it wasn't central, so I reverted to feeler gauges and a lot of green-fingering to get the cover set on centre.
Next problem was that the boring head has a very limited travel, actually 1/2" maximum. Since the finished bore is 1.880". Therein lay the problem.
Fortunately the answer was readily at hand, for a change. I made, a while ago, an adaptor for parallel to MT2 so that I could use, so far unidentified, taper tooling in a boring bar holder that I had with my QCTP. It was a relatively simple thing to set it up in the 4-jaw to give enough offset to bore to the finished size.
Just about right
There's not a lot more I can do until the gasket material turns and Machine Mart text me to tell me that my order is ready (oil etc.)
But at least I've got the timed drain valve to play with
I've been de-greasing stuff, ready for the re-assembly, but finally, today, the long awaited crankshaft oil seal arrived
The old one wasn't badly worn and as a rule, I always replace seals. However, this is a rather odd size, 1-53/64" or 1.811" OD. Did it need to be replaced? I had a close look at the old one and discovered a nick in the lip. Whether this was something that I'd done when removing it, and it was bloody tight, or whether or not it was old damage, I've no way of knowing. The upshot was that I decide that I had to find a replacement. The only one I could find was 1.880" OD. C'est la vie!
Thus ensued another hour or two's pondering as to how I could mount and machine this. On the face of it, it would be a simple task to mount it on a faceplate and bore it: if you have a good selection of parallels and T-nuts, that is. I don't have those luxuries ( on the list of bits to acquire).
Thus, we ended up with the milling attachment for the second time in this saga
It seemed uncannily easy to centre this up using my very old Starrett plunger gauge and a previously ignored magnetic stand. It's actually really good and sticks better than a couple of Eclipse DTI stands that I have. A quick eyeball once it was central showed that it wasn't central, so I reverted to feeler gauges and a lot of green-fingering to get the cover set on centre.
Next problem was that the boring head has a very limited travel, actually 1/2" maximum. Since the finished bore is 1.880". Therein lay the problem.
Fortunately the answer was readily at hand, for a change. I made, a while ago, an adaptor for parallel to MT2 so that I could use, so far unidentified, taper tooling in a boring bar holder that I had with my QCTP. It was a relatively simple thing to set it up in the 4-jaw to give enough offset to bore to the finished size.
Just about right
There's not a lot more I can do until the gasket material turns and Machine Mart text me to tell me that my order is ready (oil etc.)
But at least I've got the timed drain valve to play with
Migmac
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 8,305
- Location
- Kintyre. Scotland
Even before it’s rebuilt, I’m blown away
Pretty sure I couldn’t do all that, well I know I couldn’t haven't a lathe or the confidence to tackle that. Enjoyed reading all about it though. Great to see the old stuff being brought back to life
Pretty sure I couldn’t do all that, well I know I couldn’t haven't a lathe or the confidence to tackle that. Enjoyed reading all about it though. Great to see the old stuff being brought back to life
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
- Messages
- 12,342
- Location
- NE London - UK
Thanks @Migmac
It's all about having at least a basic understanding and obviously the kit. I struggle to do things with the odds and sods I've collected over the years. A lot of time is spent just trying to work out how to do the job. the job invariably takes a fraction of the time that I spend setting it up. I'm now at the annoying stage of having to wait for stuff in the post, something that I hate, especially with the additional delays.
Still, fingers crossed it'll be running the tail end of next week.
It's all about having at least a basic understanding and obviously the kit. I struggle to do things with the odds and sods I've collected over the years. A lot of time is spent just trying to work out how to do the job. the job invariably takes a fraction of the time that I spend setting it up. I'm now at the annoying stage of having to wait for stuff in the post, something that I hate, especially with the additional delays.
Still, fingers crossed it'll be running the tail end of next week.
Those timed drain valves are brilliant. As you know my Hydrovane is in a Portakabin remote from the workshop and the valve is set to operate for a few seconds every 45 minutes between 08:30 and 17:00 Even after several years it sometimes make me jump when it goes off and I happen to be passing!
zeppelin builder
Member
- Messages
- 2,166
- Location
- peoples republic of scotland
great work not many people can do this now sadly ,i had some small ends finished on a delapena hone but what i found that grit from the lap embeds itself into the metal and wears the hardened pins
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
- Messages
- 12,342
- Location
- NE London - UK
That is the issue with abrasives and soft bearing material.
I believe that the normal way is by broaching with a hardened polished mandrel. At least I'm certain that manufacturers like BSA and Triumph used that method, probably the rest, too.
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
- Messages
- 12,342
- Location
- NE London - UK
Well, a bit of a mixed bag today. Since the weather so so nice I spent some time, in fact a lot of time, degreasing R2D2.
It's certainly looking a lot better, I just may be tempted to repaint now.
I also thought I'd strip the motor to check the bearings and wiring.
As you can see, my two feet of bench space is getting a little cramped. I also did a test fit of the pistons and rods to try to work out how they went back. It's a little bit a of a Chinese puzzle, but I got there in the end. The pump turns over easily so I'm happy the small end boring is square. Interestingly, the bores are standard and, as I said before still have hone marks in them and the rings still have evidence of the turned finish
Just as well I stripped the motor
The front bearing was a little stubborn, but a large 3-legged puller soon got that off. The rear bearing was a little more problematic. It was a tight fit on the rotor, so much so that I couldn't drive the end cover off .
The bearing outer is retained by two locking tabs
But they're in tight little recesses and I thought could be an issue. However, I remembered some odd 1/4" drive sockets that I had laying around so had a sort through and found that the screw was 2BA, or 8mm in new money. The 8 mm socket was slightly shorter so gave me a bit more space to manoeuvre in. Fast forward 10 minutes, during which time I found a piece of scrap rod, ground one end square and then bent it with the power of MAPP.
Perfect
Out came the bearing and off the shaft with the aid of the 3-legged puller's little brother.
I got the new belt out of quarantine today and checked it. It's too short
Not really my fault, I did give the lady at Simply Bearings all of the relevant dimensions. Still, I need to order some bearings tomorrow so they can pop another belt in the post, too.
That's all for the moment.
It's certainly looking a lot better, I just may be tempted to repaint now.
I also thought I'd strip the motor to check the bearings and wiring.
As you can see, my two feet of bench space is getting a little cramped. I also did a test fit of the pistons and rods to try to work out how they went back. It's a little bit a of a Chinese puzzle, but I got there in the end. The pump turns over easily so I'm happy the small end boring is square. Interestingly, the bores are standard and, as I said before still have hone marks in them and the rings still have evidence of the turned finish
Just as well I stripped the motor
The front bearing was a little stubborn, but a large 3-legged puller soon got that off. The rear bearing was a little more problematic. It was a tight fit on the rotor, so much so that I couldn't drive the end cover off .
The bearing outer is retained by two locking tabs
But they're in tight little recesses and I thought could be an issue. However, I remembered some odd 1/4" drive sockets that I had laying around so had a sort through and found that the screw was 2BA, or 8mm in new money. The 8 mm socket was slightly shorter so gave me a bit more space to manoeuvre in. Fast forward 10 minutes, during which time I found a piece of scrap rod, ground one end square and then bent it with the power of MAPP.
Perfect
Out came the bearing and off the shaft with the aid of the 3-legged puller's little brother.
I got the new belt out of quarantine today and checked it. It's too short
Not really my fault, I did give the lady at Simply Bearings all of the relevant dimensions. Still, I need to order some bearings tomorrow so they can pop another belt in the post, too.
That's all for the moment.
Last edited:
