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Rannsachair
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Sorry to hear that, could not be sure of the condition of the parts from your photo's. If there is any damage, to the spool/sleeve/housing bore faces you get leakage and the valve is scrap.
Thanks. Very frustrated this evening!!
I thought everything looked pretty good but I am guessing the tolerances are so fine that looming good might not be enough!
I thought with the issues found I would get a better result tonight!
Brad93
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You'd need to measure the components with at least a tenth reading micrometer or better, on a comparator that you've set with slips.
But then you'd need to know the design dimensions and tolerances.
Rannsachair
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wear on the spool/sleeve is normally areas of scratches or rubbing, difficult to measure, easier to see using something like a Talyrond.
Can also get drift from a misaligned steering column or the column spline applying a load to the valve spool as inadequate clearance.
Can also get drift from a misaligned steering column or the column spline applying a load to the valve spool as inadequate clearance.
I'm not sure how the steering column could be misaligned on this. I bolted everything up with the steering lines disconnected (I.e. valve set as per the manual in the resting / all open position. I was quite careful to slip it onto the column without moving the valve from where I had set it as per the JD manual).
I jacked the front end up at about 9pm and there's a fair bit of play in the steering joints - esp the TRE on the right. I can fix this bit can't see it being the cause of this issue.
I jacked the front end up at about 9pm and there's a fair bit of play in the steering joints - esp the TRE on the right. I can fix this bit can't see it being the cause of this issue.
Rannsachair
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Try slightly slackening the column bolts and see if it makes a difference, unlikely though can cause problems.
Will give it a go. Thanks!
Rannsachair
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should make no difference
dobbslc
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I have no help to give you here as I know nothing about hydraulics or tractors but I've been following this epic thread and hope you can get it fixed. @Rannsachair seems to know his stuff so hopefully you can do it in the end 
I know how you feel though when you think you've found the problem and put it all back together and it still doesn't work! I have a shower pump doing that to me at the moment
I know how you feel though when you think you've found the problem and put it all back together and it still doesn't work! I have a shower pump doing that to me at the moment
Rannsachair
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swap the left and right steering hoses and see if the problem changes sides - if it does its the steering valve, if it remains the same side its likely the steering ram seals.
Thanks for that. I was so fed up last night as I was convinced I had found the issue.I have no help to give you here as I know nothing about hydraulics or tractors but I've been following this epic thread and hope you can get it fixed. @Rannsachair seems to know his stuff so hopefully you can do it in the end
I know how you feel though when you think you've found the problem and put it all back together and it still doesn't work! I have a shower pump doing that to me at the moment
A friend of a friend who used to work for a JD dealer has offered to come and take a look. He has setup on his own I neleive and has restored one of these. I will ask if he has pressure test gear as that's something I can't do.
I ordered all new TREs and the ball joints they connect to at the ram ends last night in the hope that front end slop is the cause but I am doubtful it will cause the steering to be this bad. Lot of slop in the right side TRE and the other ball joints all have some play (four in total across the front). The way the front cylinder rams work seems to be that the valve I have cleaned and serviced forces pressure one side or the other and that pushes the rams out on one side which draws them in on the other. Am wondering if the slop in the right side TRE needs constant correction to that side but would have thought that play would produce a more random need for correction I.e. occasionally need left sided turns to correct too.
Rannsachair
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Unfortunately old worn out valves are not what I know, I have designed and developed new steering valves, and designed test stands for them.I have no help to give you here as I know nothing about hydraulics or tractors but I've been following this epic thread and hope you can get it fixed. @Rannsachair seems to know his stuff so hopefully you can do it in the end
I know how you feel though when you think you've found the problem and put it all back together and it still doesn't work! I have a shower pump doing that to me at the moment
I dont know if I will be able to drive it like that- it will be back to front? I have to be doing fast walking pace on road to really feel it. In bouncy fields on grass it's hard to detect.
Rannsachair
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Aye, far easier on a test stand, only try that if you have a safe place to drive, away from others and safe for you. I have done it in a large car park before.
My yard might do but each time I have driven across there it's felt OK till I get out on the road.
Would pressure testing each side witb the front off the ground reveal the same thing if this chap I know has the gauges? I presume they will be a bit expensive to buy for this one off (I hope) task.
It's dawning on me that this tractor was sold as someone knew the brakes were breaking up and the issues that causes down the line. There are a number of JD threads on forums where folk have said change the oil and sell on quick!
Rannsachair
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Unfortunately with an internal leakage issue, pressure gauges are of limited help. With the front of the ground you will need far less pressure to steer, so fault will be less noticeable. Wider or twin tyres that increase steering pressure would show it more. Perhaps just try a hand pump on the steering cylinder and see if there is leakage out the opposite port, would be best done locking the steering in the central position, as that is where wear would be most likely. Sorry, wish I was near you and I would come and help.
