Land Rover Defender 110 Rebuild

[RDB logs]

Quick question, I've messaged the seller about getting kunifer pipe, he said the flaring tool will wear down far easier when using it on kunifer
View attachment 62202
That's the kit any experiance with that tool ?
Thanks

Hi Kim I don't suppose you know if this kit (or simelar) would work for making injector pipes on the engine? I have 2 that have a flat spot on them where they have been rubbing so need replacing, trouble is parts are getting rare for a my tractor so try and make as many as possible

I'm restoring a holder A60 tractor (not sure how to put a link but if you search on you tube) I have put a couple of videos on there mid way through as I couldn't wait to use it!

Thanks keep the pics and story comming
Rich

 

[KimB]

As I've said before Kim, your work is outstanding and I'd be more than happy To work alongside you. And as for being a lass, I'm damn sure you could hand my **** to me on an enduro course, and make me look a fool with a lathe

In my typical style Id crash before the finish lol thanks though

 

[KimB]

Hi Kim I don't suppose you know if this kit (or simelar) would work for making injector pipes on the engine? I have 2 that have a flat spot on them where they have been rubbing so need replacing, trouble is parts are getting rare for a my tractor so try and make as many as possible

I'm restoring a holder A60 tractor (not sure how to put a link but if you search on you tube) I have put a couple of videos on there mid way through as I couldn't wait to use it!

Thanks keep the pics and story comming
Rich

Hi Rich, I don't see why not. Without looking it's hard to say but if I were you I'd remove the damaged pipes and see what type of fitting they have, maybe ask on a forum like I have and work out the correct pipe thickness then work out the nipple thread. After that you can just cut and make them pipe thickness is key I imagine with injector hose.
Hope that helps somewhat
Regards
Kimberly

 

[Bill Edwards]

I have never come across injector pipes made out of anything other than steel - there must be a reason for this, so I suggest you don't try to make one out of brake pipe.
I think I've seen injector pipe for sale to make them up, or for just two I think I'd be trying a local diesel shop, they can probably make them.

The length of the pipe is important, as is the internal size. All pipes have to be equal in length, so whatever you do make sure nothing is altered.

 

[colnerov]

Hi, Bill is right injector pipes are made of steel because of the pressures involved, usually in excess of 160 bar which is over 2500 psi. If you look at the cross section of an injector pipe there is a tiny hole in the middle about 1mm and rest is pipe wall. Plus injector pipes are matched to the injector pump, it supplies the right amount of fuel for the length of pipe and the cylinder. It means the injector opens late and closes early. I have known people, when a short pipe breaks, to use a longer one as a temporary repair and it affects the running of the engine.

Colin

 

[mr migwire]

I've replaced several injector pipes on our 6cyl cummings crane engine with pipes of different lengths and had no ill effects, I was under the impression that it was the injector that opens and closes and as such it doesn't matter how long the connecting pipe is because once its bled the injector will let out what the pump puts in, you don't get a drop due to length, whatever you put in you will get out.

edited to add I don't think we are talking about modern diesel engines here with coded injectors and pump sensors and ecu's. we are talking about proper engines that work.

 

[Pete.]

I agree there's no compressibility in the fuel and you ain't expanding an injector pipe so length should not be a factor for the distances involved.

 

[waldershelf]

This is the type that I have, not the quickest but can be used on steel pipes as well and on the vehicle.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Franklin-...155?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item259664cbeb

That's the one I've got, works every time and you can use it on the vehicle if you need to. I've used the type in Kims photo and I have to say they are rubbish I hang on to mine in case I need to do fuel or clutch lines that have different flairs but even with practice my success rate for making perfect flairs is not high.

 

[colnerov]

Hi, I agree the injector pipe has fuel in it but it's not pressurised, the pump pressurises it again is by putting more fuel in it. So it dispenses the set amount for the preset length of pipe to reach the injector pop pressure and the set amount for combustion needs. FYI putting an injector with the wrong pop pressure onto a pump that is not set for it also affects the running.

Colin

 

[ffr90]

A quick question about the caliper rebuild, how did you get the metal seal retainer to seat in the calipers?
Did you use a G clamp/vice and a large socket was it just a case of tapping it in square?
i think you said the front kit was better quality, if so who's was it please ??

 

[waldershelf]

When I overhauled the callipers of my 90 I didn't split them, it is possible to strip, clean and reassemble without splitting them, fiddly but doable.

I used genuine Land Rover seals, they cost a bit more but the difference in quality and fit is worth it.

The easy way to fit the metal/rubber dust seal is to first fit the pressure seal then the piston, all coated in lots of brake fluid (You used to be able to buy proper red brake assembly grease but I've not seen any for years). then slide the rubber/metal dust seal over the top of the piston and into position butt up to the groove. using a small piece of steel plate and a G cramp squeeze the whole assembly into place. The piston and plate ensures the seal goes in square, it's dead easy once you've done it a couple of times and much easier than trying to persuade the metal part of the seal into place any other way.

 

[ibrooks]

I've got the type of flaring tool you linked to Kim and I definitely wouldn't recommend it. As others have said they are tricksy to use and even then don't make a great flare. I treated myself a while back to one of these.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/brake-pip...286?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item25a315a38e

It's a copy of the Sykes Pickavant ones and compared to the nasty hand-held things it's an absolute dream to use - especially on kunifer and even steel is no problem. If you are re-piping a whole vehicle and planning to maintain it then I'd recommend paying the extra money. If you can get a second-hand one like the one I've linked to it might not actually be that much more.

And you can use it on the next project........ personally I've got a soft spot for Lightweights and regret selling both of mine. You could maybe even offer to put "proper" ends on pipes for local club members for a small consideration. I bought a tool for putting the ridge/swage on the end of larger pipes to stop rubber hoses coming off some years back and at a fiver a throw it's probably worked out free after doing lord knows how many boost and coolant pipes for local car nutters.

Iain

 

[KimB]

Thanks for the advice everyone but with the tool, ive ordered the Franklin tool, never have I ever needed one so will probably never get used again.

Bit of a dilemma though, got all my parts

(None of it is britpart)
But the only rear springs that Came are terrafirma which is great but the issue is they are silver and every single part is black not sure what to do. Waiting for a call back from lr but I think I'm going to be stuck with silver springs

 

[awemawson]

Bit of advice Kim: when fitting those springs wear the trainers NOT the high heels

 

[ffr90]

It looks like cracking the jotun out again, is it flexible enough for coil springs though?
I had some blue HD std height coils and ome shocks from famous four a few years back i just sprayed them with a few coats enamel back from a rattle can, they said it wouldnt affect their warranty. I don't know how other suppliers view this though?

 

[KimB]

Bit of advice Kim: when fitting those springs wear the trainers NOT the high heels

Lol always wise

It looks like cracking the jotun out again, is it flexible enough for coil springs though?
I had some blue HD std height coils and ome shocks from famous four a few years back i just sprayed them with a few coats enamel back from a rattle can, they said it wouldnt affect their warranty. I don't know how other suppliers view this though?

Not sure if Im honest, It is very flexible but I wonder if repetitive movements would fracture it. Hmmmm may just change the fronts, they are hd but black. May replace for standard black ones if I can. Decisions decisions!

 

[Robotstar5]

The easy way to fit the metal/rubber dust seal is to first fit the pressure seal then the piston, all coated in lots of brake fluid (You used to be able to buy proper red brake assembly grease but I've not seen any for years). then slide the rubber/metal dust seal over the top of the piston and into position butt up to the groove. using a small piece of steel plate and a G cramp squeeze the whole assembly into place. The piston and plate ensures the seal goes in square, it's dead easy once you've done it a couple of times and much easier than trying to persuade the metal part of the seal into place any other way.

Got mine from ebay - link

 

[KimB]

Bit more done today
Started by fitting the a frame ball joint. Firstly I tapped the holes to clear them out, then using some long bolts I carefully lined the holes up. To keep the ball joint from moving when I pressed it (because the bolts had to be removed for pressing) I put just put it in a vice and nipped it up which kept it in place for pressing

I pressed it like this to start with but wouldn't recomend doing it

Pressing it in like this was much better, the above method allows it to push on wonky causing a faff to square it back up.

As you can see about it's all the way pressed in, I then put the two m8 bolts in, put some copper grease on the ball joint shaft and mounted the plate tightening to 170nm

Torqued it to 170nm on the axle with the incredibly expensive bolts

Fitted the bushes to the a frame arms

The chsssis was outside at this point, it started raining pretty hard so had to quickly drag it in, in my rush to get it in this happened I was worried about the axle but incredibly it only just scraped the paint off! God it's tough

Fitted the A frame arms next, I connected them to the chassis first then had to jack up the axle as it was clearly twisted a little bit.

Fuel tank in next and connected the lines

Cut a bolt down and fitted the fuel filter cover

Continued...

 

[KimB]

...continued

Finally this afternoon I mounted the rear body to cross member mounts and bolted the top fuel tank mount in place it's really starting to come together but I've almost run out of parts to fit

I looked at the wiring this afternoon, it's a bit worse than I thought, there are quite a few broken connections and most of the tape has gone funny. I established this is all for the genuine towing electrics

I'm unsure weather to fit this with a new style plug, or just scrap it and fit a standard 7pin setup only? Decisions hmm.
The rear light loom needs repairing still so that's the next job, I'm going to pull all the tape and protective covering off it then solder up broken connections, I may extend the rear light connections while I'm at it as well, they need to be longer for the different style body I have.

Running out of parts so will be painting again some point next week Im planning on fitting the transfer and gearbox then leaving engine till later when I can afford to buy a flywheel. It will allow me to fit the bulkhead and make the brake lines and fit all the ancillary items which will be good for me I'll make it really neat before getting the engine in then getting it running

 

[awemawson]

Kim I must have missed it, but have you put your Waxoil type stuff in the chassis box sections yet?

Excellent progress by the way.