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As above, always fitted the shoe retainers with a pair of pliers.
- Thread starter KimB
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I've always done them with pliars too just the where the rubber bush is behind it was really hard to get my fingers on, luckily I've got small hands and long ish fingers lol (I'm not a monkey honest)
The engine was good, ordered a ton of seals and a new fan blade
just going to go over it like I did the transfer box, I also need a new clutch and dmf 
that's going to hold putting the engine in as I can't really afford the £400 bill at the moment :'(
Cobbler
Codger bodger
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Can you fit a solid flywheel instead of a DMF? This would keep the costs down if possible. I know it's the preferred replacement for some vehicles, don't know about a Landy, I bet someone on here will though. If the fan blade doesn't turn up, I have one in the garage, the blades only, no viscous coupling you can have if I can get it to you. It was off a petrol but probably the same.
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Thanks for the blade offer but ive got a brand new one. And I'm not sure about the dmf, I'm worries about it destroying my engine and gearbox.
mr migwire
It's more fun with metal.
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all the dmf does is act as a buffer taking the shock of the drive being engaged, think of it like a cush drive on a motorcycle with the little rubber sections between the sprocket mount and the rear wheel, it does the same job,
I have welded 3 dmf's so far all on Toyota hilux surfs all with the same issue of loosing drive because the springs in the dmf gave out, once welded theyt are basically a normal fly wheel, you just have to make sure your weld positions are equal to keep it in balance.
I have welded 3 dmf's so far all on Toyota hilux surfs all with the same issue of loosing drive because the springs in the dmf gave out, once welded theyt are basically a normal fly wheel, you just have to make sure your weld positions are equal to keep it in balance.
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I think there is maybe I should ask on a forum
I looked into a solid flywheel for my little corsa but read the vibrations cause the crank to snap writing of engine and gearbox, that's my main concern
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These were my worries. I'll just make some money and buy a new Luk kit, need a steering box as well then it should be able to run and drive I think
Cobbler
Codger bodger
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Might have a steering box, my son bought 2 of them s/ hand as he was looking to see if we could convert his series to power steering. Ill ask him if he knows what model there off, or are they all the same. The series is long gone, the bits still remain in my garage.
Edit, if you pm me with an email address I'll send you a picture of what they are. Not sure how to add pictures to the web, I'm a bit of a Luddite as far as computers are concerned
Edit, if you pm me with an email address I'll send you a picture of what they are. Not sure how to add pictures to the web, I'm a bit of a Luddite as far as computers are concerned
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Pm sent
thanks xIf its any help Kim, I got my clutch kit from http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVE...697?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3a530a7df1
Which is a 5 part kit. I have two clutch kits from Ribble and no issues. First time about 4 years ago and did not replace the spigot bearing and should have done(ended up with a squeal when cold and lifting the clutch up) and then replaced it this year with just a clutch, pressure plate, release bearing & spigot as the gearbox had to came out and was a good time to do it. Also there is a little black plastic clip thing to hold the release bearing to the clutch arm which I replaced as well. Oh and i replaced the bolts for the DMF as well.
Steering box refurbed by http://www.4x4gearboxes.co.uk/ Had it done about 5 years ago, no leaks and no issues.
They bring a you a new one(refurb) and you give them back yours. I do think you have to remove the steering arm first.
Which is a 5 part kit. I have two clutch kits from Ribble and no issues. First time about 4 years ago and did not replace the spigot bearing and should have done(ended up with a squeal when cold and lifting the clutch up) and then replaced it this year with just a clutch, pressure plate, release bearing & spigot as the gearbox had to came out and was a good time to do it. Also there is a little black plastic clip thing to hold the release bearing to the clutch arm which I replaced as well. Oh and i replaced the bolts for the DMF as well.
Steering box refurbed by http://www.4x4gearboxes.co.uk/ Had it done about 5 years ago, no leaks and no issues.
They bring a you a new one(refurb) and you give them back yours. I do think you have to remove the steering arm first.
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I did see that kit and wondered if I could use it. Was going to ask closer to the time of replacing it in the next few weeks.
Steering box wise I don't think there is anything I can do with it, it's in a bad way. I looked at the cost of replacing the worm gear and it was either 500 or 800 for the one gear if I remember correctly
See for yourself.
Got some parts now so can make my whole car a roller next week
no more engine lift!!!normspanners
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A DMF that is worn can be more out of balance than a solid SMF, the wear is not only as shown in the video but radially and it should 'self centre' if it doesnt there is wear in the radial springs etc
I have fitted quite a few solid conversions and never had a problem I am doing one now at the mo (it is on the lift) on a td4 dearlander ---(they should have been called that from the start not--- freelander)
A lot of talk about broken cranks is scaremongery IMO, if you are keeping it I would convert, as long as it is a reputable manufacturer ie luk or valeo etc it will be ballanced correctly for the job, there is some truth in the fact they reduce the impact on the gearbox but that type box has been used with the 200/ 300 with no DMF for years, it is only the modern car and van gearboxes that are built too small anyway, that suffer.
Ps with your rear calipers have you tried the pads in them because with the ridicules curved shape of the pad the caliper body wears and allows the pads to move and drop into the caliper and rubs on the disc effectively sawing the disc flange off.
On mine I have drilled the 'ear' on the pad and put a long split pin right through the two pads this stops the pad dropping through.
Also with the tranfer box the open bit of the casing that fits onto the gear box shaft has a taper bearing in there you can just see it from the outside, it is worth replacing that coz if it has run even slightly low on oil that bearing gets hot and wears quickly, also the ratios are / can be different and the ratio is on a sticker on the box you can end up with the car under or overreving .
I have fitted quite a few solid conversions and never had a problem I am doing one now at the mo (it is on the lift) on a td4 dearlander ---(they should have been called that from the start not--- freelander)
A lot of talk about broken cranks is scaremongery IMO, if you are keeping it I would convert, as long as it is a reputable manufacturer ie luk or valeo etc it will be ballanced correctly for the job, there is some truth in the fact they reduce the impact on the gearbox but that type box has been used with the 200/ 300 with no DMF for years, it is only the modern car and van gearboxes that are built too small anyway, that suffer.
Ps with your rear calipers have you tried the pads in them because with the ridicules curved shape of the pad the caliper body wears and allows the pads to move and drop into the caliper and rubs on the disc effectively sawing the disc flange off.
On mine I have drilled the 'ear' on the pad and put a long split pin right through the two pads this stops the pad dropping through.
Also with the tranfer box the open bit of the casing that fits onto the gear box shaft has a taper bearing in there you can just see it from the outside, it is worth replacing that coz if it has run even slightly low on oil that bearing gets hot and wears quickly, also the ratios are / can be different and the ratio is on a sticker on the box you can end up with the car under or overreving .
Last edited:
normspanners
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I did mine few months ago and struggled after my end seal went, but I DO HAVE got gorilla hands, my tool had 'gone missing' so went and bought one AGAIN,I had to do them again when my transfer box went (that bearing BTW^^^) coz of the lack of oil when the seal leaked. With the tool they went OK .
