Land Rover Defender 110 Rebuild

[Rocketman]

http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/epages/BT4822.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT4822/Products/175
Found these and I think it's my only solution but what a bodge! Wonder if there is anything else I can do hmm

I found this statement interesting
'A4-80 is the equivalent of Mild Steel 8.8 high tensile bolts'
I don't think you would class 8.8 bolts/nuts as mild steel.

Anyway seems a option though and a known issue. Would you be happy with it?

 

[moose]

H Kim, regarding the LEZ, now I know you don't want to cause a big fuss on your brilliant work, but, I thought you might be able to make the engine compateble one year but it doesn't mean that it will be ok the following year, people with vans have found out to their cost (average cost I heard was about £1500), I also understand the thing about LEZ it only effects commercials but was not suppose to effect car derived vehicles when you say but that land rover there has the same engine why is that not stopped they cannot answer. It also depends what has been written on the log book, Land rover has caused a big blip in this tax, because at the Land rover plant as the chassis come off they were all being called Utility Vehicle, but a lot then had bodies put on them and even if it had a 110 body with seats because the chassis was stamped as utility, they were still charged, there was also comments saying they would not change from utility even if engine had changed or put seats in or fitted windows etc, that might have changed now so be very careful. So you can have two vehicles exactly the same age, say both 110 with same engine and gearbox etc but if one has seats and the other is pick up, the pick up will be charged.

 

[zx9]

At the moment LEZ requires Euro 4 or newer, I too had to sell a perfectly good Euro 3 van. One good thing to come out of the LEZ, we now get far fewer 'metal men' roaming the streets in flat bed Transits.

 

[pedrobedro]

Not having much luck today, trying to strip things for painting and a bit of rot in the rear bulkhead which is alumium and I can't weld it because I don't know how or have a tig :'( not sure what to do.

Help lol

Put some aluminium over it to cover it up and pop rivet it. That's what we did, who's going to notice a couple more rivets in a Land Rover and the fit is not that critical that you can't afford a couple of millimetres for the extra plate.

 

[Mark E]

I couldn't sleep this morning and was browsing the web trying to find something entertaining while the rebound insomnia from my Jack Daniels last night wore off and I found this thread. WOW.

I read all the pages and looked at all the pictures and enjoyed the various technical expertise herein. I wanted to say what an impressive amount and quality of work has gone into this and to thank you for taking the time to document your progress. I too took on a massive project which has taken years and also tried to document it so I know how much work you have put in. On discovery of your age, I was even more impressed. Various posters have also commented on your gender and while it certainly isn't common to find a lady as skilled as you, it is extremely impressive. My wife is enthusiastic but I think she'd have her work cut out for her in tackling this project!

I've subscribed to this thread and am looking forward to seeing what the end results are. And if you damage yourself again, let me know as I am (almost) a doctor. (Final exams start next week and I am fed up revising hence my interest in procrastinating. Let's hope you don't need my help though

Seriously, well done and keep up the good work and let's see some more pictures!

 

[KimB]

Put some aluminium over it to cover it up and pop rivet it. That's what we did, who's going to notice a couple more rivets in a Land Rover and the fit is not that critical that you can't afford a couple of millimetres for the extra plate.

Well my friends telling me to do this but I can't leave the seat belt mounts like that. The section isn't actually too big so hopefully i'll be able to just make it the section inside the cab I'll probably patch however. Unless I can get the press guy to make an overlapping peice and I'll cut the whole section out and replace it with a nice section then seal it and rivet it in so it looks like a factory made one.

I couldn't sleep this morning and was browsing the web trying to find something entertaining while the rebound insomnia from my Jack Daniels last night wore off and I found this thread. WOW.

I read all the pages and looked at all the pictures and enjoyed the various technical expertise herein. I wanted to say what an impressive amount and quality of work has gone into this and to thank you for taking the time to document your progress. I too took on a massive project which has taken years and also tried to document it so I know how much work you have put in. On discovery of your age, I was even more impressed. Various posters have also commented on your gender and while it certainly isn't common to find a lady as skilled as you, it is extremely impressive. My wife is enthusiastic but I think she'd have her work cut out for her in tackling this project!

I've subscribed to this thread and am looking forward to seeing what the end results are. And if you damage yourself again, let me know as I am (almost) a doctor. (Final exams start next week and I am fed up revising hence my interest in procrastinating. Let's hope you don't need my help though

Seriously, well done and keep up the good work and let's see some more pictures!

Honestly thank you for your reply, you've actually made my day more to come over the next couple days and I've got something cool to show later if I get a chance to fit them

 

[KimB]

Update time

Nothing major but I learnt how to make brake lines today for those that don't know you need double flare on female unions and single flare on male unions.
First connecting pipe I made for the front was a wee but short so I cut it again andfitted all the nipples and flared then here's my flares, this is single flare

This is double

They both came out really nicely after you use some tool grease that came in the kit.
Once done I put the callipers on and carefully bent the pipes to what I think was same bend as standard. I should note I was always advised to fit brake lines in the most common position, which is obviously with the wheels straight, if you fit them when wheels are turned the pipes are normally constantly under stress
This is them done

While sitting on the floor snap chatting I though what a perfect way to get a photo of me with my car lol first photo of us haha and not the last

After the brakes were done I fitted what I've struggled not show you all my new wheels yay

I'm so thrilled how it's all come out. Literally the wheels look so good and all the new shiny bits are brilliant . The chsssis and suspension is pretty much complete now just need to make read lines on the axle then I'm pretty much done

 

[colnerov]

Hi, A little trick, do the longest lines first because then if you make a mistake and cut it short you can then cut it up for shorter lines. You can't do it the other way round, and it's infuriating when you can't get the long one out of what's left of the reel. Be aware you can get double flares with male unions, so check inside the cylinder ports.

Looking good!!

Colin

 

[Robotstar5]

I had to look up snap chatting sign of old age

 

[Cris B]

Starting the come together now, the wheels make a massive difference to the build and define that and this is definitely a Landie.

 

[lchris21]

looking awesome....

 

[Mark E]

That looks immaculate. I'm seriously impressed and a little (a lot) envious! We had a County 110 when I lived in Saudi Arabia and my Dad managed to buy a 6.2L HWMMV engine with plans to install. Unfortunately we had to leave the country so this immaculate project (had already been dipped/galvanized etc.) got abandoned as we couldn't export the car in pieces. Such a shame.

What you have achieved is phenomenal! Great work!

 

[Cobbler]

I had to look up snap chatting sign of old age

So did I, never heard of it before. It's not in the "old farts" vocabulary. Why aren't you covered in dirt like the rest of us when we get near a vehicle? Looks really good, I bet your chuft how it's turning out.

 

[KimB]

Hi, A little trick, do the longest lines first because then if you make a mistake and cut it short you can then cut it up for shorter lines. You can't do it the other way round, and it's infuriating when you can't get the long one out of what's left of the reel. Be aware you can get double flares with male unions, so check inside the cylinder ports.

Looking good!!

Colin

Thanks Colin, I did ask on defends page about the flares so maybe it's only on defenders how I said but I'll look into the holes and make sure I'm doing them right as well these were the only lines I did, need the bullhead on to do the one long one. Least I'm ready to simply make them to the master cylinder now

That looks immaculate. I'm seriously impressed and a little (a lot) envious! We had a County 110 when I lived in Saudi Arabia and my Dad managed to buy a 6.2L HWMMV engine with plans to install. Unfortunately we had to leave the country so this immaculate project (had already been dipped/galvanized etc.) got abandoned as we couldn't export the car in pieces. Such a shame.

What you have achieved is phenomenal! Great work!

Thanks and what a shame

So did I, never heard of it before. It's not in the "old farts" vocabulary. Why aren't you covered in dirt like the rest of us when we get near a vehicle? Looks really good, I bet your chuft how it's turning out.

Sorry gramps hehe, well the jobs are pretty clean and I wear blue gloves to stay clean it's getting there now

 

[balmerchris]

Love the tyres, nice aggressive tread.

 

[waldershelf]

If its not too late 'cos all your parts look so nicely painted. Its a good idea to slot the hole on the little bracket that holds the fitting that connects the flexible brake line to the little solid line on each calliper, that way you can move the calliper out of the way to remove the disc/hub for any reason without disturbing the brake pipes and having to bleed them etc, you just loosen the locknut and lift the whole thing on the flexible brake line.

 

[KimB]

If its not too late 'cos all your parts look so nicely painted. Its a good idea to slot the hole on the little bracket that holds the fitting that connects the flexible brake line to the little solid line on each calliper, that way you can move the calliper out of the way to remove the disc/hub for any reason without disturbing the brake pipes and having to bleed them etc, you just loosen the locknut and lift the whole thing on the flexible brake line.

Brilliant Idea but I'm sure it will be fine if not no harm spending a few minutes making it how you said.

 

[KimB]

Update!!

Did a bit more today and yesterday.

I spent a while trying to seperate the tow bar parts which was a major pain. I couldn't get the adjuster pin out, I tried with my 10ton press but nothing so today I used a thin chisel down either side of the adjesting section to free it up and clear the dirt, then put it in the press and it moved. Finally got it out after half hour of faff

After that I decided to repair the rear brake pipe T peice mount. I tried buying a replacement but they don't sell them anymore . It's still in one peice to start so I flattened it out

Then traced round the rotten section onto some steel, while scribing I centre punched the hole as well.

All cut out

Scribed a line where to cut the rot off.

Cut it off, chamfered both mating surfaces to keep the welded flat then tacked them together, drilled the hole and finished it off with a nut welded in place

I filed the edges to blend it then fitted the t peice and bent the little alignment tab up

Not the prettiest but super strong now rather than the rot making it all floppy.
I took a load of nrackets to the shot blasters as well will really enable me to get it togerher.
I do need a bit of paint advice however, on the bulkhead I'm going to be fillering a very small pitted area as well as Seam sealing all the joints. Do I do these before primer ? And any seam sealer you would recommend ?

 

[Kayos]

Any PU adhesive, think mine was about £9 for 3 tubes off ebay, it's been outside with no protection for months and no lifting or rust

 

[KimB]

Any PU adhesive, think mine was about £9 for 3 tubes off ebay, it's been outside with no protection for months and no lifting or rust

What's pu adhesive ? Sorry if that's a bit thick, never done anything like this before and am really anxious about something going wrong while painting all the body work