Land Rover Defender 110 Rebuild

[KimB]

OK! I await with bated breath.

Still have to wait, still working

 

[mike os]

im going blue in the face here

 

[KimB]

Right, I'm done ive not got many photos but following on from the two earlier today...
Started as you saw by dismantling the rear bulkhead.
Both cornered sections came off first which was as simple as drilling rivets

I found finding spot welds was particularly easy with quick once over with emery pad

First pilot drilled them then used a bigger drill to finish them off. Was very quick and easy

To remove the rotten bracket mounting peice I wire wheeled it over to find spot welds then centre punched as they were a bit awkward with a drill then just went along and popped it off

I'll take them to the fab place tomorrow morning and get three panels bent and I'll do the rest of the forming some how I'll work it out I'm sure

Moved lou outside but can now really start getting the painting done

Then I painted some parts, mainly body brackets. Once I get the rear bulkhead fixed I'll paint that and the front bulkhead. That'll allow me to get so much done. And keep me busy for a while as well as clear a pile of awkwardly large parts.

Finally the parts I psinted today

 

[mike os]

.... and breath..

Coming on well

 

[KimB]

.... and breath..

Coming on well

Slowly but surly. Just loads of painting I hate painting.

 

[colnerov]

im going blue in the face here

Yes, I thought I was going to expire.

You should be able to pick the pace up now

Colin

 

[KimB]

Yes, I thought I was going to expire.

You should be able to pick the pace up now

Colin

Hope so, least the bulkhead is complet and ready for paint. That'll speed things up I'm glad that was the first thing I sorted.

 

[Mark E]

What colour will you paint this monster?

 

[colnerov]

Red, so you can't see the blood she has spilt on it

 

[KimB]

What colour will you paint this monster?

Nato green with some black accents. Like black cheq plate and the wheels etc

 

[KimB]

I did a bit more yesterday not much and have to do it again today but I'll say at the end what happened

I went to the bolt shop and got tonnes of nuts and bolts £15 it came to jts everything for the tow bar and the rear bulkhead brackets

I put the lower arms on but had an issue with the right hand side, as you can see bolted to the tow bar it was flat and on the chassis end it was at a bad angle

And rubbing on the chassis.

I took it off and switched the plate round that it bolts to as well as gave it a wiggle which helped settle it. And it was pretty much flat but it still bend out close to the fuel tank so I took it of and carefully bent it with a club hammer that fixed it
Bolted it all up anyway and fitted the tow bar, I'm definitely going to buy a twin pin adjustable unit. I got a price and am hoping the from units the tow bar shop sells are the same as the rear, fronts were £38 and rear was £98

Looks good with all the new bolts I think
I'm not sure if I said earlier but I'm changing the towing electrics to 13pin type. I didn't want two plugs and heard the new sockets are waterproof so seemed a bonus. Also the benefit of using the genuine tow electrics and being able to have a reverse light was a big plus. So I decided to make a nice bracket.
Started by marking it all out. It's a bit hard to see

Spend a while doing this to get it exactly how I wanted it.
Then cut it out and drilled some holes

Using a hole saw I cut the hole for the rubber thingy

I then bent it and made what I think are called gussets and welded them in.

After bolting it in I realised I used 1.5mm rather than 2mm steel I had I was not amused as its not strong enough so have to make it again today.
I know it's a bit over engineered but I didn't want to drill any holes in the tow bar which may compromise it if towing something heavy and I wanted it to come down a bit as the rear for the hcpu over hangs the chassis so wanted it to be easy to get to.
I'll make it again and get photos later may change it a little as well.

 

[Pete.]

I think moving to 2mm or even 3mm is a good move. On my tow-hitch the trailer socket was bolted to a sandwich-plate between the hitch and the mount. That was 16gauge and it cracked to leave the socket dangling on the wire.

 

[awemawson]

Nice work Kim.

Where the electrics bracket is at the moment, is it possibly too close to the sliding part of the towing bracket that at certain height settings you cannot remove the cross pin? (Hard to be sure from the angle that picture was taken)

 

[Mike B]

Can you not use the original plug mounting position- the big hole in the chassis crossmember? It keeps the towing electrics high up, out of the way and well protected.

 

[Mike B]

All you have to do is drill three holes arounf the rectangular opening and either self tappers, or tap the holes and a three m4 set screws. looks much neater..

 

[KimB]

I think moving to 2mm or even 3mm is a good move. On my tow-hitch the trailer socket was bolted to a sandwich-plate between the hitch and the mount. That was 16gauge and it cracked to leave the socket dangling on the wire.

2mm will be fine. I made a bracket for the old style socket last year on my trailer. As you can see, it's really tough.

Nice work Kim.

Where the electrics bracket is at the moment, is it possibly too close to the sliding part of the towing bracket that at certain height settings you cannot remove the cross pin? (Hard to be sure from the angle that picture was taken)

That did occur to me but the pin can be switched to either side and I'll never need to go that high.

Can you not use the original plug mounting position- the big hole in the chassis crossmember? It keeps the towing electrics high up, out of the way and well protected.

I didn't want to drill through the chassis firstly and secondly it a pain with the rear body overhang. As well my electrics on my trailer and all Ifor williams are on the left hand side so I made the bracket for the left because I don't like them crisscrossing it's a tad ocd but oh well...

All you have to do is drill three holes arounf the rectangular opening and either self tappers, or tap the holes and a three m4 set screws. looks much neater..

 

[KimB]

Also the new style sockets are not like the old ones where you push them in, the new ones slot in and twist which saves the plate getting bent around and it's a much better fit.

 

[Pete.]

I didn't want to drill through the chassis firstly and secondly it a pain with the rear body overhang. As well my electrics on my trailer and all Ifor williams are on the left hand side so I made the bracket for the left because I don't like them crisscrossing it's a tad ocd but oh well...

I actually like to cross the drawbar, or even put a whole turn around it if I have the slack. It helps to keep the wire from pulling tight on one turn and dangling close to (or on) the road the other. I guess if you only have to tow one thing you can make a reasonably tight arrangement but I have to tow a myriad of trailers and the lighting wire is usually quite loose.

 

[KimB]

I actually like to cross the drawbar, or even put a whole turn around it if I have the slack. It helps to keep the wire from pulling tight on one turn and dangling close to (or on) the road the other. I guess if you only have to tow one thing you can make a reasonably tight arrangement but I have to tow a myriad of trailers and the lighting wire is usually quite loose.

Any trailer ive ever used or rented has the coiled wire on it which doesn't allow it to dangle on the floor anyway. Then it doesn't have to be rapped up as it always stays tort if done right

 

[mr migwire]

Any trailer ive ever used or rented has the coiled wire on it which doesn't allot it to dangle on the floor anyway. Then it doesn't have to be rapped up as it always stays tort if done right

Why are you on this forum chatting when you should be out grafting and taking pictures of said graft for us to look at, get your backside out to the garage missy and get more work dons on lou....

i am joking of course, you are doing an awesome job kim, seriously jealous......