grib
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can.t wait for more
Lot's of work planned before the next episode so you won't have to wait long Andy
- Thread starter grib
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Lot's of work planned before the next episode so you won't have to wait long Andy
grib
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Righto, things happened yesterday :thumbsup:
Collected the bulkhead and axles form the shot blasters. The bulkhead has come up very nice! Not as much welding needed as I thought so well worth having it blasted.
That's not to say I got off welding completely, both pillars will need to be replaced. Then once it's cleaned up, a jig will be welded up and sent to the galvanisers.
Here, all the underbody parts that prepped are getting a top coat of satin black like the chassis. These have cured to a pleasing finish. The masking trick worked perfectly
Then once fully cured, the parts are packed up safely until I need them - I'm trying to prevent accidental damage
Finally, the axles had some final prep for painting - I'll hit those with etch primer e.t.c as before. I'll then clean the internals throughly and the final drive case - bolt the lot back together and paint it!
This is how the everything looks so far, great finish from the blasters - who've recommended that I hit everything with 60 - 80 grit paper. I'll see if it seems necessary.
Collected the bulkhead and axles form the shot blasters. The bulkhead has come up very nice! Not as much welding needed as I thought so well worth having it blasted.
That's not to say I got off welding completely, both pillars will need to be replaced. Then once it's cleaned up, a jig will be welded up and sent to the galvanisers.
Here, all the underbody parts that prepped are getting a top coat of satin black like the chassis. These have cured to a pleasing finish. The masking trick worked perfectly
Then once fully cured, the parts are packed up safely until I need them - I'm trying to prevent accidental damage
Finally, the axles had some final prep for painting - I'll hit those with etch primer e.t.c as before. I'll then clean the internals throughly and the final drive case - bolt the lot back together and paint it!
This is how the everything looks so far, great finish from the blasters - who've recommended that I hit everything with 60 - 80 grit paper. I'll see if it seems necessary.
grib
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- Holmfirth
whats the jig for ?
never done anything like this, probley never will, got the tools but no garage or space, unless i win the lottery
but love reading threads with pics
The idea is to keep the bulkhead from twisting due to extreme heat. I'm looking into whether the galvanisers will slowly heat it first in a oven before dipping so that it doesn't just buckle and warp
grib
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There's a Land Rover restorer in Holmfirth? I haven't heard of them. I'm getting inundated with people wanting me to build their Land Rover though, maybe one say
andy_v
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Kent
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There certainly was but I am going back some certainly over 25 yrs so might well have retired nowThere's a Land Rover restorer in Holmfirth? I haven't heard of them. I'm getting inundated with people wanting me to build their Land Rover though, maybe one say
Think they did series 1 rebuilds then went on to other series landys. High std stuff
Not been involved with the things for many years but used to constantly have a few on the go and did a lot of race prep chassis parts cages etc for others.
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I made some simple brackets to allow the axle cases to be turned on axle stands.
grib
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Very clever Robotstar5, like it as turning them if they are sat on the axle stands is damaging and quite difficult. Might knock something up like that tomorrow
grib
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Ok, so Episode 06 is out now:
Here's what I've been up to over the last week. I sold my 110 for a start, which is partly why I've had no time to be posting :thumbsup:
Took the opportunity of perhaps the last bit of good weather to fit a weather sealing strip, should stop the dust blowing under the door in the hard winters we get. :mrgreen:
I then prepped the axles for painting, removing the shot blasting material from the inside of the axles - this would likely make an aggressive grinding paste if there were any left inside.
The shot used was an iron oxide of some sort, but was coated on in the intervals of the axle. To remove, I gave the whole lot a through wash with chassis detergent and a sponge.
Placing a scaffold pole through the axle tubes or even bolting some old stub axles on lets you easily rotate the axle on the stands.
The axles then needed drying completely, before using a solvent soaked rag to clean the internals and outside. The axles were then spotlessly clean, took an hour per axle though
There will be no contamination of the diff oil now!
The diff studs were refitted, ready for the final drive casing.
The final drive casing mating surface after clean up to take RTV sealant.
RTV, adding the bits before cinching those down and torqueing up.
After everything is securely sealed up, I can clean the diff casing - preventing the crud falling into the axle or onto the diff.
Then, those were solvent cleaned, etch primed, left to cure and finally painted in satin black
Here's what I've been up to over the last week. I sold my 110 for a start, which is partly why I've had no time to be posting :thumbsup:
Took the opportunity of perhaps the last bit of good weather to fit a weather sealing strip, should stop the dust blowing under the door in the hard winters we get. :mrgreen:
I then prepped the axles for painting, removing the shot blasting material from the inside of the axles - this would likely make an aggressive grinding paste if there were any left inside.
The shot used was an iron oxide of some sort, but was coated on in the intervals of the axle. To remove, I gave the whole lot a through wash with chassis detergent and a sponge.
Placing a scaffold pole through the axle tubes or even bolting some old stub axles on lets you easily rotate the axle on the stands.
The axles then needed drying completely, before using a solvent soaked rag to clean the internals and outside. The axles were then spotlessly clean, took an hour per axle though
There will be no contamination of the diff oil now!
The diff studs were refitted, ready for the final drive casing.
The final drive casing mating surface after clean up to take RTV sealant.
RTV, adding the bits before cinching those down and torqueing up.
After everything is securely sealed up, I can clean the diff casing - preventing the crud falling into the axle or onto the diff.
Then, those were solvent cleaned, etch primed, left to cure and finally painted in satin black
grib
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- Holmfirth
Whilst they dried, I began popping bushes back in. You can fiddle around popping them in with a vice or similar. I found it easier to secure the arm in the vice, then use a large M12 bolt with some thick washers on to pull it through.
This would work really well if you had to do this at the roadside, a handy homemade 'tool'.
It can also be used to pull the inner race through :thumbsup:
This would work really well if you had to do this at the roadside, a handy homemade 'tool'.
It can also be used to pull the inner race through :thumbsup:
grib
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The axles are painted! And looking superb! Love the Frost Chassis paint :thumbsup:
Also, purchased a printed TD5 Defender manual with the 300TDi and Electrical supplements, pricey but worth it for a job like this.
Picked up a new A frame Fulcrum bracket with the ball joint pressed in, saves me the hassle as I don't have a press and these aren't too pricey to buy pre-done.
That was all bolted together, using genuine bolts just to be safe.
I applied copper slip liberally - I don't want any trouble if I ever need to disassemble these parts.
I then bolted the brackets into place, the manual says to not torque everything down till it's in place
The A Frame was then lifted into place and nipped up, but not fully, I'll do that when the axle is in place.
Also bolted on the damper brackets, these ones are not handed, but the manual appears to show them as though they are.
I took the chance this week to set-up the shot blasting cabinet. This one came from Frost.co.uk, they are a good company to work with and have a lot of stuff that's of interest to vehicle restorers. I'm running the cabinet with recycled (crushed) glass - it's cheap at around £5 per 25kg.
The cabinet has been completely indispensable. Rather than having to replace all those little brackets that quickly add-up the costs - I've been ablate last them, restoring them to as new condition. It's brilliant. I'm going to refurb the callipers using this cabinet :thumbsup:
Here's a before and after (needs a little more blasting, but this was about 1 minutes work)
grib
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great work 