- Thread starter grib
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grib
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Kim, is this not like a bus drivers holiday for you?
grib
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What have we been up to this week with our Tribute build?
First up, we set about finishing the swivels from last time. The pre-load had to be set using shims on the upper pin - a time consuming process to say the least.
You'll need a spring balance, which can be found cheaply online or at a fishing supplies shop.
We're looking for a constant pull between 1.2kg and 1.4kg. If you're reading over the number, you need more shims, if you're below, you need to remove some. Be careful not to crank it down with such a high pre-load that you buckle the bearing race.
Then the oil seal and retainer plate need fitting. These lock down with small bolts and are torqued to 11nm.
The steering stop lock bolt was added at both sides too, this will need adjusting later.
Once the swivels we're correctly pre-loaded, we slid the cv and half shaft into place, feeling for the splines on the final drive unit to match with the half shaft end before gently pushing it home.
Using a piece of plywood to prevent damage, the brass bushing on the back of the stub axle can be tapped into place. To fit the roller bearing, we used an old cv joint as a bearing setter. Worked very well!
The stub axles can then be bolted on using the correct tensile strength stub axle bolts, with thread lock.
The new discs are from EBC and look awesome! Hopefully they'll provide superior braking capability thanks to the drilled and slotted brake surface.
The hub bearings were then fitted as well as the oil seal and adjusted correctly, before flatting the lock washer around the two hub nuts.
Then we positioned the axle under the rear of the chassis and connected it to the trailing arms, as well as dropping in the a frame ball joint.
The a frame castellated nut needs tightening and then the split pin pushing through
The springs and dampers could then be fitted, along with some nice galvanised seats and retainer plates.
The wheels were then temporarily bolted on. These are not the final wheels we'll be using - those haven't been painted yet. These are just to allow us to shunt the chassis around the workshop.
Then the springs and shocks were offered up - working with standard, non-gas filled shocks is a bit of a treat as they don't want to rapidly expand!
Then the front boots can be chucked on. These will be up for sale once the build is finished as they are surplus to requirements.
It is now a rolling chassis! Here's proof as I move it further into the centre of the shop for more room!
The R380 gearbox was chucked on a palette and taken to a gearbox specialist for a recon and inspection. This one had done around 75k and was getting a little tired, however it's always been well looked after so that's good.
We added the steering arm to make moving the rolling chassis around a bit easier.
The clutch and Dual Mass Flywheel assembly was stripped from the engine, so we could fit it on an engine stand, this one is from http://www.sgs-engineering.com/garage-equipment/engine-stands/es1000-450kg-engine-stand. It's a good value stand, but from my past experience with other SGS products, the are as good if not better than their competitors.
grib
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I drained the oil from the engine, before refitting the sump plug and setting about scrubbing it with gunk to get it clean.
Working in the 'Gunk' degreasing solution to shift those really stubborn stains.
Then fitted some new axle breathers to the axles. We picked up these M12 to 6mm pneumatic elbows from <a href="http://www.gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product/land-rover-defender-90-110-td5-puma-axle-breather-fittings/">Gwynn Lewis 4x4</a> - I'm impressed with their service, they ship products very quickly! In the kit, you also get a tap. Then it's a case of removing the old brass bushing to reveal the 12mm hole and tapping that. The tap should be dipped into some grease to stop swarf entering the diff oil.
These ones are for TD5 / Puma axles. If you have 300tdi and older, you'll have a 1/8 hole, in which case you can pick up a 1/8 BSPT (British Standard Pipe Thread) fitting to 6mm pipe on eBay for next to nothing. You'll need a 1/8" tap too. The only difference is the elbow is smaller.
great work 
- Messages
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- Never Never Land
Pretty much
I'll get some done soon
grib
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- Holmfirth
Pretty much
Have you painted your engine block? I'm thinking it might be worth it whilst everything is out to make it look mint! And so I can spot future leaks e.t.c
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No I did not. If I had time or money I'd have stripped fully and had blasted then painted for ultimate satisfaction but I didn't
grib
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- Holmfirth
:S I'm getting a bit concerned about security tbh, it will be rag top so I can imagine it will be supremely easy to steal - though I do have a number of tricks up my sleeve...
No I did not. If I had time or money I'd have stripped fully and had blasted then painted for ultimate satisfaction but I didn't
I think I'm going to go for it, but not have it sand blasted. I've found some enamel that should apply direct on to the clean but treated engine block
octo0072000
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i doubt you will like the discs make weird noise and kill pads quickly
Shox Dr
Chief Engineer to Carlos Fandango
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- East Yorkshire
And when off roading the muck and stones get in the drillings etc, and wears them even faster
grib
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- Location
- Holmfirth
grib
Member
- Messages
- 60
- Location
- Holmfirth
This week, we headed over to a local gearbox specialist to get our R380 stripped down and inspected.
Here it is after we dropped it off, looking a little sad. The plan is to have it inspected, have all bearings & seals replaced then the outer cases will be fully cleaned and painted before reassembly.
If you look in the R380 manual, it lists the tools need to remove this oil selector collar: LRT-37-009 and LRT-37-010
Glenn then removed the foam insulation that sits in the tunnel over the gear selector housing and gear knobs. He then went on to remove the extension housing upper bolts, the ones that go through the remote and gear change housing.
The high low and centre diff lock linkages were also removed as were the breather pipes that were still bundled with the gearbox.
Next Glenn removed the 4 bolts left on the remaining gearbox mounting bracket.
The remote housing was then free to remove.
The front cover is held on with 6 bolts. This can be tapped loose using a soft faced hammer.
The input shaft front taper bearing is in good condition
The bearing races themselves though have a little scoring, only light - but then this gearbox has covered 75 thousand miles.
The spool retainers also need removing, there's one in the gearcase and one in the extension housing.
Next out comes the inhibitor camshaft, then Glenn removed the bolts holding the extension housing to the centre plate and gearcase.
The outer Detent ball and spring need removing, these have a torx screw holding them in on this box. After a liberal spray of penetrating fluid and heating with a propane torch, this came out much easier. The detent ball and spring can be retrieved with a magnet. The gearcase and extension housing are then separated, before removing the selector quadrant and completely splitting the outer cases.
The oil filter was retrieved and appeared to be in good condition
And that's the internals removed.
The bank / synchro rings are also in decent condition, they haven't worn sharp.
The housings are then put into the parts washer and a hot wash tank for a thorough degrease before painting.
On the gearbox internals, glenn first removes the 5th gear nut - then the layshaft 5th gear
Before moving onto the mainshaft and removing the mainshaft 5th. The syncro here was in excellent condition. After removing the 5th gear, you need to remove the circlip that holds the Reverse/5th gear synchro hub and sleeve in place, then the hub itself.
grib
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Reverse gear comes off next.
The input shaft slides off now along with the 4th gear syncro ring.
Then reverse comes off.
When taking the center plate off, watch out for the lower detent spring and ball. The Selector fork and shaft can be removed next and that’s the gearbox done. It’ll then be cleaned, any worn parts replaced and painted - we should be able to pick that up in the next episode!
Back at FunRover HQ - we’re working on the steering box. We purchased a recon steering box as the old one would make quite a grumble as it was turned from lock to lock. This was supplied by LrParts.net. Once this is fitted, we can send the old one back, it’s a neat way of saving cash and recycling Land Rover parts. Empty as much steering fluid out the system as you can. Will need to be centred and bled and the torque will be rechecked after our shake down drive.
Adding the tie bar
This can be lifted into place and bolted up, it's much easier if there are 2 of you.
One shot grease was added to the swivel housings. It was necessary to remove the steering stop locks to turn the housing past the end of the swivel ball. This allows you to insert the grease bag filling tube right into the housing and get the grease in the right place, rather than it spewing back out all over.
Next, we moved onto the TD5 lump. This needs cleaning up, as we're going to paint and polish it. Unnecessary? Perhaps, but it would look out of place in the build if we had a dirty old engine.
First off, I started by removing all hoses.
Some of the pipes had quite an amount of corrosion in them.
Next, the fuel cooler was removed. It's helpful to put bolts back in their respective holes so you can remember where they came from later.
The Alternator and associated belt pulleys were next.
The turbo came off afterwards, revealing the all too common snapped exhaust manifold stud problem. Not one stud had snapped but two!
The answer is to get the manifold machined flat (as it has warped due to the exhaust gas temperatures) then have some of the casting removed to help it flex little. We'll also fit longer, more heavy duty studs with spacers and this should stop it ever happening again.
grib
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For gods sake make sure they use either Genuine LR parts and bearings or Timken/GKN.
DO NOT USE BRITPART, YOU WILL REGRET IT. I did
They will be using Timken stuff don't worry
Shox Dr
Chief Engineer to Carlos Fandango
- Messages
- 17,995
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- East Yorkshire
Good! It would be a shame to spend all that time and money, to find a 2quid bearing let go
looking forward to updates. 