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mart
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They are 10mm. Here is the site where i saw them-have a look. One is a TTE but i do not know what that stands for.
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/brakepipe/brakes.php
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/brakepipe/brakes.php
rtbcomp
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Guess - Threaded To End
Its something I keep meaning to add to my tool box. I was gutted as just after I moved in with my now wife her mother gave away half a garage load of pro quality tools to the young guy that serviced her car including a real heavy duty brake pipe flaring set. They belonged to her late husband who'd been into his cars and I guess she hadn't realised how much I was into cars (despite the fact I'd stuck a dismantled spitfire into the corner of her garage!)
steve202
ǝlʇıʇ ɹǝsn ɯoʇsnɔ
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The hit-and-run victim was just getting to his feet when a policeman ran up to help. "My mother-in-law just tried to run me over!" the shaken man told the cop.
"The car hit you from behind," the officer said. "How could you tell it was your mother-in-law?"
"I recognized the laugh!" he replied.
mart
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I have just got one of those brake flaring kits and am struggling.
Looking at the pictures provided by shug I have some questions please.
1. How do i prevent the hole in the pipe from “closing in” when I use the wheeled cutter? (When this happens with 15mm copper tube it does not really matter as there is usually nothing going inside the tube). What I am finding is that it is very difficult to get the pin of the die in the tube after cutting. I am using 3/16 so the cavity is only small to begin with. (Can I use larger dia pipe for the car, and if so up to what size)?
2. How do I stop the force of the screw gear from pushing the pipe back out of the clamp. Surely if I put enough pressure on the clamp to hold the pipe (like holding the clamp in a vice) there is every chance I will crush the pipe?
3.If using the concave side of the die (meaning that the screw gear will be pressing down on the very small point of the die, does that still work ok-does the pin and pointed end of the screw gear line up ok?
4 Once the pipe has been made and connected on ONE end, I.E to the brake cylinder, should the pipe be able to rotate, or should it be locked tight in position even though the other end of the pipe has yet to be connected to the master cyl for example? If it is able to rotate I am assuming there is a problem?
Thanks (clueless at the moment)
Looking at the pictures provided by shug I have some questions please.
1. How do i prevent the hole in the pipe from “closing in” when I use the wheeled cutter? (When this happens with 15mm copper tube it does not really matter as there is usually nothing going inside the tube). What I am finding is that it is very difficult to get the pin of the die in the tube after cutting. I am using 3/16 so the cavity is only small to begin with. (Can I use larger dia pipe for the car, and if so up to what size)?
2. How do I stop the force of the screw gear from pushing the pipe back out of the clamp. Surely if I put enough pressure on the clamp to hold the pipe (like holding the clamp in a vice) there is every chance I will crush the pipe?
3.If using the concave side of the die (meaning that the screw gear will be pressing down on the very small point of the die, does that still work ok-does the pin and pointed end of the screw gear line up ok?
4 Once the pipe has been made and connected on ONE end, I.E to the brake cylinder, should the pipe be able to rotate, or should it be locked tight in position even though the other end of the pipe has yet to be connected to the master cyl for example? If it is able to rotate I am assuming there is a problem?
Thanks (clueless at the moment)
peterd51
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Hi,
could you post pictures of the one that you bought?
I usually cut the pipe with a hacksaw and then run a file over and around it. It does push strands of metal over the hole but I use a 2" nail that has four 'flat' sides at the point...
put the point in the hole and rotate it a few times left & right by hand. It cleans the crap out very quickly without damaging the end of the pipe.
If you're using it right, and it's a decent design then it shouldn't crush the pipe. Have the faces got cut-outs for the pipe?
Yes, it needs to be tight up when you clamp it to the cylinder. If it can rotate then it'll leak.
You're not putting two similar 'ends' together are you? It should be male to female at each joint.
Regards
Peter
could you post pictures of the one that you bought?
I usually cut the pipe with a hacksaw and then run a file over and around it. It does push strands of metal over the hole but I use a 2" nail that has four 'flat' sides at the point...
put the point in the hole and rotate it a few times left & right by hand. It cleans the crap out very quickly without damaging the end of the pipe.
If you're using it right, and it's a decent design then it shouldn't crush the pipe. Have the faces got cut-outs for the pipe?
Yes, it needs to be tight up when you clamp it to the cylinder. If it can rotate then it'll leak.
You're not putting two similar 'ends' together are you? It should be male to female at each joint.
Regards
Peter
rtbcomp
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Don't tighten the wheel on the cutter too much. Most cutters have a pointed de-burring tool to clear the hole.
I wouldn't use the pip in the die to clear the hole - mine (Clarke) broke off!
The bit that clamps the pipe should be some sort of split tube sized for each size of pipe to avoid crushing.
As I said earlier
Some .... slave cylinders require a double flare. Look down the port and if there is a cone protruding you need a double flare on the pipe.
So if the pipe turns you may have the wrong type of flare like wot Peter says.
I wouldn't use the pip in the die to clear the hole - mine (Clarke) broke off!
The bit that clamps the pipe should be some sort of split tube sized for each size of pipe to avoid crushing.
As I said earlier
Some .... slave cylinders require a double flare. Look down the port and if there is a cone protruding you need a double flare on the pipe.
So if the pipe turns you may have the wrong type of flare like wot Peter says.
mart
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mart
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mart
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I’ve finally got around to having a go at flaring some pipe with a decent tool. I feel the need for some guidance though, as I am learning as I go along.
Although I have a few questions, I find it is usually better to ask just one at a time, as several questions asked at the same time just fall by the way-side.
Why does the pipe have to be filed/chamfered (to approx 30 degrees) before flaring?
Although I have a few questions, I find it is usually better to ask just one at a time, as several questions asked at the same time just fall by the way-side.
Why does the pipe have to be filed/chamfered (to approx 30 degrees) before flaring?
rtbcomp
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Didn't know it did! probably to make sure all rough bits are removed and it fits into the die smoothly.
mart
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That was the instruction with the kit. I have just tried making some flares after filing, and in my opinion the flares appear to be a bit better WITHOUT filing. They appear to be smoother. A file, while ok for smoothing rough edges, seems to basically roughen the already smooth surface of the pipe. In my opinion I feel the only benefit is possibly gently taking the small file over the cut end of the pipe two or three times.
I notice that after bringing the brake nut up to the finsished flare, the flare does not “seat” right down in the nut-the trumpet end is sort of 2mm proud. However, after tightening the nut and then undoing to observe the effect of the compression on the pipe it becomes seated a lot better-perhaps with just 1mm protruding. Does that sound acceptable?
I notice that after bringing the brake nut up to the finsished flare, the flare does not “seat” right down in the nut-the trumpet end is sort of 2mm proud. However, after tightening the nut and then undoing to observe the effect of the compression on the pipe it becomes seated a lot better-perhaps with just 1mm protruding. Does that sound acceptable?
rtbcomp
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Any chance of pics? Obviously the trumpet isn't protuding right out of the nut or you wouldn't get it to screw on the male thread.
Do you clean the burr off inside of the pipe where it has been cut? There can be quite a deep burr if a wheel cutter is used, especially if you tighten the cutter down too quickly.
Do you clean the burr off inside of the pipe where it has been cut? There can be quite a deep burr if a wheel cutter is used, especially if you tighten the cutter down too quickly.
mart
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I will get a picture.
I have at times tried to clean the burr from the inside but find it sort of difficult due to the very small hole. The only thing that i find will fit and turn ok in the tiny hole is one of those stanley blades with the hooked end (i don’t know their original use). Pete mentioned a nail (earlier on this thread)-one with square sides. What is the best way of de-burring the inside?
The next question is lubrication of the job. That is, applying some brake fluid around the end of the pipe prior to flaring it. Is this helpful and does it make a noticeable difference? I have seen this mentioned some place although not on here and not in my kit instructions.
I have at times tried to clean the burr from the inside but find it sort of difficult due to the very small hole. The only thing that i find will fit and turn ok in the tiny hole is one of those stanley blades with the hooked end (i don’t know their original use). Pete mentioned a nail (earlier on this thread)-one with square sides. What is the best way of de-burring the inside?
The next question is lubrication of the job. That is, applying some brake fluid around the end of the pipe prior to flaring it. Is this helpful and does it make a noticeable difference? I have seen this mentioned some place although not on here and not in my kit instructions.
rtbcomp
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Do the nozzle cleaners you can get for welding torches go big enough? You could use a needle file, but make sure you get all the swarf out.
I always use a bit of silicon brake fluid to lubricate the end of the pipe and the threads of the tool. This makes for smooth operation and prevents the die turning in the pipe. I use silicon fluid because it doesn't attract moisture, otherwise you run the risk of the tool rusting up.
I always use a bit of silicon brake fluid to lubricate the end of the pipe and the threads of the tool. This makes for smooth operation and prevents the die turning in the pipe. I use silicon fluid because it doesn't attract moisture, otherwise you run the risk of the tool rusting up.
rtbcomp
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Silicon Brake Fluid is readily available, but contentious!
Yes, those are threads I mean.
mart
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Here is one i flared earlier but my camera is poor at close-ups. You can see that there appears to be too much pipe above the surface of the brake nut.
The second pic shows the flare after fitting the female nut on and tightening up. (Also shown in the second pic is a brilliant tool for deburring. Its a 10 mm wood bit-very sharp, pointed and tapered,its ideal and does a great job. I should patent that.
The second pic shows the flare after fitting the female nut on and tightening up. (Also shown in the second pic is a brilliant tool for deburring. Its a 10 mm wood bit-very sharp, pointed and tapered,its ideal and does a great job. I should patent that.
