Mancave extension

[Migmac]

That's some man cave, a wee bitty jealous

 

[dobbslc]

Bitty? That's something else altogether.....

 

[8ob]

Please tell me that lot has got to be for business use, no one can have that many toys can they?

Not for commercial use , its toys only. I am trying hard not to mix the two because it gets in the way of playtime.
Bob

 

[zx9]

Not for commercial use , its toys only. I am trying hard not to mix the two because it gets in the way of playtime.
Bob

Wow, and I have to use a tiny 1930's garage, I drove a Mk2 Escort in once and found that I could not even open the door to get out of the car and I was a 12 stone weeklin in those days.
Today it is the stock room for my business, home to three motobikes, three pushbikes and my workshop, I must have been very bad in a previous life.

 

[DAPPH]

That's not a Man's Cave nor is it a Man Cupboard ,that's a Man's TARDIS .. ..... I'm just thinking inside the box .

 

[8ob]

Nearly ready for the urlektrix so nipped into Lidi for a dozen of those 4` led florescence moisture proof fittings that are on promo.

 

[8ob]

Found some time and finished the exterior panels, made the side door and lock, checked the roof over and plugged any unwanted holes with blind rivets/mastic.


View of roof from the mancave





Any urlektrishuns in the house? thought I would wire up the s/h roller shutter motor thinking its just needs a live feed and an up/down knob , opened the side cover to find a cam and switches with a heap of black wires .





and another switch on the chain/manual overide end

 

[Jonwhite]

That looks really nice Bob very jealous

 

[knighty]

the cam switches and the extra wires are for the limit switches, to stop it automatically when it gets to the top/bottom (of it's automatic, so you press up and it goes all the way up etc.)

if you're just going to have an up'down button, you can just ignore those and wire direct to the moto

you could wire them in anyway if you want them, just need a couple of relays to cut the feed from your up/down button when it gets to the top/bottom
(micro switches won't live long switching the amos the motor takes)

 

[DAPPH]

Security suggestions if you haven't already considered it .

Put side slide bolts in at the bottom of the shutter . Use a decent close shackle clamshell padlock in the chain to stop anyone raising the shutter with a spade in the middle , enough to slide in a scissor jack.
Locking the chain also heps delay & or upset thieves if someone takes out a few TEC screws and lifts a roof panel etc & gets inside whilst an alarm is sounding off .
If you have an alarm wire in a pair proximity magnetic reed switches one either side of the door frame ,screwed into the floor or the frame & put the operating magnets on the roller , so that it breaks the monitored circuit if the roller door is lifted when the alarm is set ,

 

[8ob]

Security suggestions if you haven't already considered it .

Put side slide bolts in at the bottom of the shutter . Use a decent close shackel clamshell padlock in the chain to stop anyone raising the shutter with a spade in the middle , enough to slide in a scissor jack. Locking the chain also heps delay & or upset thieves if someone takes out a few TEC screws and lifts a roof panel etc & get inside whilst an alarm is sounding off .
If you have an alarm wirer in a proximity magnetic reed switch in either side of the door frame screwed into the floor or the frame & put the operating magnets on the roller , so that it breaks the monitored circuit if the roller door is lifted when the alarm is set ,

Thanks for the tips, we are on a farm here and its very secure. Only one way in with a very wide deep ditch full of water going around the whole property,leccy gates and on this side of them some very nasty land sharks running loose 24/7. Only one unsuspecting visitor in 30+ years and he had to leave his tools behind and bits of his jeans

Bob

 

[tinman123]

Security suggestions if you haven't already considered it .

Put side slide bolts in at the bottom of the shutter . Use a decent close shackle clamshell padlock in the chain to stop anyone raising the shutter with a spade in the middle , enough to slide in a scissor jack.
Locking the chain also heps delay & or upset thieves if someone takes out a few TEC screws and lifts a roof panel etc & gets inside whilst an alarm is sounding off .
If you have an alarm wire in a pair proximity magnetic reed switches one either side of the door frame ,screwed into the floor or the frame & put the operating magnets on the roller , so that it breaks the monitored circuit if the roller door is lifted when the alarm is set ,

i recently installed a 8x8 insulated roller door and i was thinking only the other day that it was a weap point in the scheme.
the sliding bolt idea is a good one but id like to still be able to open the door on the fob alone.
i suppose electric bolts would be the route there, i must look into it, its a good plan.

i never sat down to think about it but what would a man need if he wanted to made a basic alarm that would kick off if there was movment after hours, id like to be able to be reset if it happened to sound if a bird set it off by accident without the need to open up, range there would need to be about 100'.
i loud siren, a few sensors, cable, fob, controller??

 

[tinman123]

8ob,
i tip my hat to you sir, thats as fine a workshop as ive seen in quite some time.
super tidy too..., unlike mine.
the lista stuff is RR stuff, i have some of it here, as you say, its shocking dear new.
i gathered up a bit of it over time, out of auctions and buy outs over the years.
i bought 6 vidmar roller cabinets a few months ago, about 10-14 drawers in each with dividers and some bonus electrical stuff in one, they set me back over £2k and that was on the cheap enough side in a sale over here.
as you say tho, im only starting to realise just how much stock you can put in one of them, its amazing.

again, hats off sir, thats a fine establishment you have there.

 

[DAPPH]

i recently installed a 8x8 insulated roller door and i was thinking only the other day that it was a weap point in the scheme.
the sliding bolt idea is a good one but id like to still be able to open the door on the fob alone.
i suppose electric bolts would be the route there, i must look into it, its a good plan.

i never sat down to think about it but what would a man need if he wanted to made a basic alarm that would kick off if there was movement after hours, id like to be able to be reset if it happened to sound if a bird set it off by accident without the need to open up, range there would need to be about 100'.
i loud siren, a few sensors, cable, fob, controller??

Some sensors can be set so that it takes several knocks with in a few seconds using the edge of the infrared sensing zones of Frenzle lens on the detectors being triggered , some of the better panels can also be set to register a few more activations on different sensors before a full alarm sounds . WIFI sensors and remote signaling to your mobile phone with a mesage that says alarm activated are a good way of learning that the alarm is triggered. you may then be able to go and observe at a distance to see if things are indeed untoward and then call the police in person whilst you as still away from the situation observing.

it's not the cleverest of ideas to go blundering into an on going break in , in case you get an iron bar across your skull or worse .

Thee are microwave sensors that are quite different a Pir wo4rks as you move across th sensing zones , a microwave sensor works as you go towards the sensor , ultra sound sensors can be OK in certain circumstances .

Capacitance sensors are good as they can be adjusted to account for a larger change in the capacitance of the air between a pair of sensors several metres apart or if an enclosed room is opened up .
double beams of narrow infra red being guided down tubes so that they shine down another tube 30 mtrsd away are also a good sensing device if you place them at about 400 * 800 mm above the ground angled corner to corner etc .
There are also vibration & shock sensors .. the list is tremendous .

Re solenoid locking bolts .. Use an independent rechargeable power supply for them and a five lever turn key lock as far from the area of the door as you can get . Preferably have it hidden away in a different building that's alway open & easy to walk into ..just disguise it and never tell anyone else what it is or where it is. Fit it with a 5 amp micro switch inside lock body to operate the solenoids .
Another solution to operating electric bolts is to use a normally open 5 amp reed switch & associated magnet ( eBay £ 9 each ) , with a little thought the reed can be put inside a hollow rod of plastic so that only the end is showing on the outside of the building , once it's been painted over you'd never know it's there so long as you take a lot of care drilling the access hole for the tube & work in incremental stages , making the final four or five holes from the outside so as to get a neat sound edge .

Some alarm panels can be remotely reset by infra red , cable or phone signal , good if you have viewed the area on CCTV & everything looks safe .

I must confess ...I like the land sharks 8ob speaks of , in a spiky fenced and deep water moated enclosure with only one easy entrance to guard .

 

[8ob]

Mancave was hammered last night in the winds, still there so all good No urlektrishuns have come forward with a wiring diagram for the leccy door yet, come on chaps.

Bob

 

[Robotstar5]

Mancave was hammered last night in the winds, still there so all good No urlektrishuns have come forward with a wiring diagram for the leccy door yet, come on chaps.

Bob

The cam switch arrangement looks familiar, we had machine roller doors made by Albany that had the switches connected to a control box. There may be some info if you troll through the downloads section?.

 

[knighty]

sorry, assumed you only had the door and were going to wire it straight to the switch

which controller do you have ? need photos of that too, some use limit switches some don't


looking at the motor, one of my roller motors is identical by the look of it

you can use either can switch for up or down, the cam's are adjustable, little alan key and you can spin them around to where you need them

controller will have 3 wires for limit switches

your feed needs to go in on the far bottom left connector number 1 (above the wire with the gray crimp on it)

then you have 2 returns, then go in number 2 and number 5


tricky to tell from the photo, but it looks like some of the wires pass straight through and out the bottom ? - guess they're going to the motor ? (my motor is wired differently)

take the cover off the motor and see which wire goes where (cores are numbered)

 

[8ob]

sorry, assumed you only had the door and were going to wire it straight to the switch

which controller do you have ? need photos of that too, some use limit switches some don't


looking at the motor, one of my roller motors is identical by the look of it

you can use either can switch for up or down, the cam's are adjustable, little alan key and you can spin them around to where you need them

controller will have 3 wires for limit switches

your feed needs to go in on the far bottom left connector number 1 (above the wire with the gray crimp on it)

then you have 2 returns, then go in number 2 and number 5


tricky to tell from the photo, but it looks like some of the wires pass straight through and out the bottom ? - guess they're going to the motor ? (my motor is wired differently)

take the cover off the motor and see which wire goes where (cores are numbered)

I was hoping to use the switch below, as the limit switches are on the cam on the box of tricks the simple up/down emergency stop switch will do, I would imagine it uses some kind of two way latching relay setup.

Bob

 

[knighty]

do you want to press the switch then it goes all the way up or down

or just press and hold while it goes up/down ?


if you just want press and hold while it goes up/down you can wire the switch direct to the motor
(you leave go of the switch when it's all the way up/down)
constant negative to the motor, then a positive from each switch to the two different positive connections on the motor :-)

if you want to press it and it goes all the way up/down you need 4 relays... but if you're doing that you might as well get a remote unit on ebay ... something like THIS

I've got two of those and they work well... but I can't remember if they have the option to wire in limit switches.... the two roller shutters I have them on have limit switches built into the roller motor... if they don't you could use a couple of relays fed from the limit switches


remotes are pretty awesome... walking towards a door in the rain, hit the remote and the door is up by the time you get there

 

[Robotstar5]

You normally have to hold the switch in for closing the door unless it has a safety edge switch fitted.