Myford ML10 (Malcolm Myford)

[gaz1]

with your height you could jack up the lathe to the required height

as the ml7 and the ml10s both can use stands underneath them to adjust them you could make yours out of a triangle shape cut the top off and sit it on a plate or prebolts drilled through the plate

the original stand would collect alot of swarf before it needs to be cleaned up or you could add a lip for the oil to collect and be repumped back up to the work piece

 

[cumbriasteve]

It's got the additional raising blocks Gaz...without them I would be on my knees .

Don't know what oil has been used on it but entering the workshop this morning and what a lovely odour of machinery there now is, sane people would never understand

 

[Richard.]

Mines bolted to the original stand and it's very sturdy and no issues that I know of with bed twist.
I've raised it 3 inch by bolting the stand down on a thick lump of wood.

 

[Badger1bear]

Don't know what oil has been used on it but entering the workshop this morning and what a lovely odour of machinery there now is, sane people would never understand

That's a mixture of Badger beer, wd40, cutting oil and Malamute fur

 

[cumbriasteve]

What a battle I am having locally to find some 5 core cable, PDG has very kindly offered to send me some but knowing the cost of even a small parcel I did an Ebay search and came across this and if suitable will probably cost me less than it would cost PDG for the postage alone.

My motor has 2.9amps and 250 watts ratings, will this cable be suitable or do I require heavier?, not one of my strong knowledge points ...Thanks

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Black-Rou...hash=item4b03e314be:m:mrL7jAla80wF2px3id70i2g

 

[Pete.]

3 amps you could use just about anything. The 0.75mm wire in that link will carry twice what you need.

 

[skotl]

What a battle I am having locally to find some 5 core cable, PDG has very kindly offered to send me some but knowing the cost of even a small parcel I did an Ebay search and came across this and if suitable will probably cost me less than it would cost PDG for the postage alone.

My motor has 2.9amps and 250 watts ratings, will this cable be suitable or do I require heavier?, not one of my strong knowledge points ...Thanks

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Black-Rou...hash=item4b03e314be:m:mrL7jAla80wF2px3id70i2g

2.9A and 250 watts seem to contradict each other. 2.9A at 230V would be 667W

That said, the cable you link to should be fine, if you go with 1mm or above CSA (cross sectional area). 0.75mm would probably also be fine, but I'd go with the 1mm.

 

[cumbriasteve]

Thanks guys, that's the cable sorted and ordered, it says fast delivery so am waiting by the door...should be here any minute

 

[cumbriasteve]

The stuff I'd have is (iirc) 2.5mm, and steel braided with a transparent sheath...

Not massively flexible, nor light, but looks fancy



Edit: it is flex, but fairly stiff due to braid - I just thought how much should the motor move anyway?

Sounds like the stuff that was on it..photo to follow soon, the heavy steel elbow at the end is what broke a chunk out of the motor casing I suspect, overtightening or movement/being bashed sometime in it's past.

 

[Pete.]

I used 1.5mm braided flex for a 1.5kw motor and it worked great.

 

[cumbriasteve]

Some more photo's, simply because it shows what I am doing.

First of all the stand photo, it has some ferrous acne but it's only superficial and a wooden cover will probably go over the shelf, I don't want to refurbish the stand without doing the lathe, perhaps they are both a future project for restoration to shiny and clean...perhaps not.

Next is the Dewhurst switch, the cable entry leaves a bit to be desired but other than that a blow out of the dust and a clean up of the terminals will be job done, it operates very nicely with a firm locating click.

I may consider rewiring the 13amp plug, the gap between the live lead and the actual pin is asking a bit much of electricity to jump that far.

The cable ties on the leads are my simpleton's method of remembering which is which and what goes where, works for me.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Some more photo's, simply because it shows what I am doing.

First of all the stand photo, it has some ferrous acne but it's only superficial and a wooden cover will probably go over the shelf, I don't want to refurbish the stand without doing the lathe, perhaps they are both a future project for restoration to shiny and clean...perhaps not.

Next is the Dewhurst switch, the cable entry leaves a bit to be desired but other than that a blow out of the dust and a clean up of the terminals will be job done, it operates very nicely with a firm locating click.

I may consider rewiring the 13amp plug, the gap between the live lead and the actual pin is asking a bit much of electricity to jump that far.

The cable ties on the leads are my simpleton's method of remembering which is which and what goes where, works for me.

Coming along nicely!

Haven't seen those fibreglass cleaning pens for years, I had one years ago and have no idea what happened to it.

 

[cumbriasteve]

Coming along nicely!

QUOTE]

I think VERY slowly will be the word used eventually, the beauty of being a potter in the workshop, nothing has an important time frame.

I have had the pens for at least 20 years, a steel, brass and glass fibre, they are great tools for detailed cleaning.

 

[Turbo]

I'm enjoying this thread, I have a Myford ML7 which is an ongoing restoration project. I've got it up & running but got no further. It gets used at least once a week, you will realise how useful they are when you get it running!

I feel your pain trying to find suitable 5 core cable to wire the reversing switch. I tried several local electrical supplies places & the only way I could buy cable with coloured wires was in a 100m roll. I ended up buying stuff with numbered black cores - does the same job, just requires some more thought when making the connections.
Another option would be the cable used for wiring car trailers, though I'm not sure if the insulation has the correct rating for 240v.

As regards the stand, it should be strong enough for that lathe. What I would suggest is welding in diagonal braces on the back & both ends and add some welds at the bolted joints to add stiffness, but be careful of the frame twisting from the welds.

I would also suggest making up a tray to sit under the lathe plus some sort of splash back behind the lathe. It will catch most of the swarf making cleanup easier. It will also catch the oil from the headstock bearings - they run a total loss system & it doesn't take long for a pool to gather under the lathe! You should also fit a guard between the motor & the chuck as it tends to fling oil & swarf straight at the motor, at least my ML7 does!

 

[Pete.]

The splash back is a great idea. It helps contain the swarf and keeps your work area a lot cleaner, plus if you bend a wide lip in the top edge you can drill a row of holes in it for chucks, keys and centres etc

 

[addjunkie]

If your ever going to use coolant or lots of oil when drilling id put a lip around that base plate as well. Surprising how much mess it makes even with a proper drip tray.

I agee on the shelf /drawer, every time i machine I want a shelf or table to but bits and bobs on to my left, i now use an old roll cab, pull it out vernier, micrometer, bore gauges, rule, callipers, cuppa all have to lie somewhere.

 

[cumbriasteve]

All great suggestions guys plans are afoot and watch this space.

I am still unsure how much actual lathe work I will do, true there has been a couple of instances this year when I have said 'a little lathe would be handy here' but not I suspect as many as a lot of members.

That does not bother me, I like machinery and like owning machinery as many here also do, the lathe could have been quickly assembled and used virtually as is but I also like pottering with things as much as using them so getting a lot of enjoyment from slowly going through everything and getting it perfect...well perfectish is perhaps a better word to use .

This thread may have content that seems over the top at times but it's the full story as it is happening and even something as simple as the motor repair may be handy if it happens to anyone else and they end up wondering how to fix the damage.

So if you are in it for the duration, read on, if not...... come back in a few months...with luck

I am going to have a chat with my 'local scrappy with a transit' and ask him to keep me any handy bits of stock bar etc in exchange for a slightly higher than scrap value deal, I am sure they must come across some decent short bits of steel in their travels.

 

[gaz1]

nah your like a baby with a new toy like we all are when we get something new we all just have to play with it

its also worth watching as some have to do the same with theres or wish that they had one to use

been there with local scrappy with van dont hold your hopes up however i let lucky as next door neighbour did it so got equal for equal swap with him or paid him for some of it

 

[cumbriasteve]

The time came to remove all wiring from the Dewhurst switch, allowing me to polish up the terminals ready for when my new stuff arrives.

To many members that would be no problem, to me I needed to remember what went where so my trusty Radio Shack multi tester was used to check continuity and establish which was which.

Just a quick but true story: I bought the multi tester about 30 years ago when I finally decided the best way of checking if a wire was dead was not to touch it VERY quickly with my finger, owning a multi tester does not make me an electrical expert even though it makes me look quite professional when using it.

The switch has no markings that I could see so the usual red goes to 2 and black goes to etc was not an option.

Anyways I decided to visit my ocd a tad and decided a quick sketch was not good enough, especially once I lost it before the rewiring, I hope my digital 'sketch' may be of help to anyone else who looks into a Dewhurst switch and wonders what goes where, although I of course realise there may be variants with the motor labelling.

Three core in and five core out, Z being an out and part of the five core.

 

[Badger1bear]

I use the camera on the phone to jog my memory when putting hydraulic lines or electrical runs back together