Myford ML10 (Malcolm Myford)

[cumbriasteve]

Well my 5 core cable has arrived so tomorrow I have promised myself a good day in the workshop, should see some progress with the switch wiring and the motor repair completed plus the start of my ideas for the stand.

I have noticed a couple of the tensioning screws on the slides have lost a side to the screwdriver slot, probably been an attempt at adjustment without slackening off the locking nut first, so will make a couple of those up too, not sure of the thread size thanks to not being able to remember who last borrowed my thread gauges, late night ebay shopping again

 

[Wightsparks]

Sorry, a few days late with this, but should anyone else find themselves in need of 5 core cable - or any other cable or proper electrical bits for that matter, Yess Electrical are happy to cut what you need by the meter - https://www.yesss.co.uk My local one is great and they are all over the country, also have a handy catalog.

 

[cumbriasteve]

Today saw a decent amount done, halted a few times due to other demands but feeling happy with the progress.

The motor repair was first, the areas that were going to have the Araldite applied were roughed up with the Dremmel to ensure the chance of a good bite for the adhesive, two holes were drilled and tapped and short screws sorted, this is hopefully giving a belt and braces approach to the fix and even with the araldite still soft felt very secure.

The Dewhurst switch was then wired up with the new 5 core and a spare length of 3 core for the input.

The wire is just sitting in the motor grommet and wiring will be done when the araldite has set fully, ideally a gland fitting should have been used but space is tight inside there, the grommet is a very tight fit on the cable and I will sneak a drop of superglue down once wired, can't imagine it falling out.

I decided to position the unit on the table, it is separate to the lathe, I think later models are a combined set up, once mounted in the existing holes and running straight edge across the pulleys proved it was out of alignment by a couple of degrees, probably not enough to make any significant difference but it may as well be as good as I can get.

Off it came, a quick round file on the holes and bolted back down with new bolts and good lock washers, recheck the alignment and now spot on.

My next task will be fitting the switch to the table, running the cables and wiring the motor.

Also need to study a bit to sort out some of the gears and what goes where for basic turning, out of my depth here but will get there eventually, I have a good selection of gears which all seem to be in good nick, perhaps the trick is to throw a handful at it and see which one's stick .

So that's it for now, slowly but surely and hoping to shoot some electric through it sometime this week coming, although the first couple of days are booked by family duties

 

[Tinbasherdan]

Today saw a decent amount done, halted a few times due to other demands but feeling happy with the progress.

The motor repair was first, the areas that were going to have the Araldite applied were roughed up with the Dremmel to ensure the chance of a good bite for the adhesive, two holes were drilled and tapped and short screws sorted, this is hopefully giving a belt and braces approach to the fix and even with the araldite still soft felt very secure.

The Dewhurst switch was then wired up with the new 5 core and a spare length of 3 core for the input.

The wire is just sitting in the motor grommet and wiring will be done when the araldite has set fully, ideally a gland fitting should have been used but space is tight inside there, the grommet is a very tight fit on the cable and I will sneak a drop of superglue down once wired, can't imagine it falling out.

View attachment 98973

I decided to position the unit on the table, it is separate to the lathe, I think later models are a combined set up, once mounted in the existing holes and running straight edge across the pulleys proved it was out of alignment by a couple of degrees, probably not enough to make any significant difference but it may as well be as good as I can get.

Off it came, a quick round file on the holes and bolted back down with new bolts and good lock washers, recheck the alignment and now spot on.

View attachment 98975

My next task will be fitting the switch to the table, running the cables and wiring the motor.

Also need to study a bit to sort out some of the gears and what goes where for basic turning, out of my depth here but will get there eventually, I have a good selection of gears which all seem to be in good nick, perhaps the trick is to throw a handful at it and see which one's stick .

View attachment 98976

So that's it for now, slowly but surely and hoping to shoot some electric through it sometime this week coming, although the first couple of days are booked by family duties

May be wrong but if the gearing for the leadscrew is the same as the super 7 there's a chart in the book I gave you showing chagewheel set ups and corresponding feed per Rev

 

[roofman]

Steve dont fit the switch where it can be knocked on with the legs as important as dont put it somewhere you have to lean across the machine to switch it...And forget all this nonsence that iff your two arms are wrapped around the chuck you can switch off with your knee, Switching the machine off while losing a liter of blood per second is last on the list of prioritys Other than that bit of good news enjoy your lathe and look out for Mr postie next mid-week.

 

[roofman]

It's a myford...

The only reason you'd have both arms wrapped around the chuck is if you're cuddling it.

Also, the only way you'd be able to recreate that 'lathe accident' photo is by fainting over it and staying there for about an hour and a half while the chuck jaws take nibbles from you.

I'm not saying be complacent, but really now.

Tongue in cheek post from me mate with a couple of shakes of humour thrown in...but thanks for the heads up about not getting mangled in a myford lathe

 

[Turbo]

I have noticed a couple of the tensioning screws on the slides have lost a side to the screwdriver slot, probably been an attempt at adjustment without slackening off the locking nut first, so will make a couple of those up too, not sure of the thread size thanks to not being able to remember who last borrowed my thread gauges, late night ebay shopping again

They are probably BA thread, 2BA I think. A set of thread gauges is essential for working on the Myford as they contain a fastener of all the common thread forms. My ML7 has BA, WW, UNC, UNF, BSF, ACME and metric threads - basically what was in stock at the time! Don't go by the parts list either, the threads types in it are often wrong!

The wire is just sitting in the motor grommet and wiring will be done when the araldite has set fully, ideally a gland fitting should have been used but space is tight inside there, the grommet is a very tight fit on the cable and I will sneak a drop of superglue down once wired, can't imagine it falling out.

A simple way of stopping a cable pulling out is to put a small cable tie around it & pull it tight.

I would strongly advise that you fit an emergency stop to your lathe, easiest place would be somewhere between the plug & Dewhurst switch. If you ever get caught on the lathe you will find it extremely difficult to stall it. Even though it is a small lathe it still has plenty of power due to the gearing & an emergency stop is a lot easier to hit than using the switch.

Another use for the ES button is for those situations where it's doing a cut on auto feed, you've got distracted & just realised the tool is about to hit the chuck! (Don't ask me how I know that!)

 

[cumbriasteve]

I need to replace a couple of adjusting screws, I have a tin full of 2BA bolts so easy enough to cut a couple down to length and using the dremmel put a slot in one end.

They have a 'bull end', I think that's the correct term so it will be a case of using my drill as a lathe to file and shape the end or wait until I am up and running and make it my first task on the lathe itself.

Does anyone know if these ends are hardened or not?

 

[Richard.]

I need to replace a couple of adjusting screws, I have a tin full of 2BA bolts so easy enough to cut a couple down to length and using the dremmel put a slot in one end.

They have a 'bull end', I think that's the correct term so it will be a case of using my drill as a lathe to file and shape the end or wait until I am up and running and make it my first task on the lathe itself.

Does anyone know if these ends are hardened or not?

View attachment 99155

I'm not sure Steve but there is certainly no need for them to be.
They are under no pressure whatsoever you simply give them a little nip to press the insert against the dove tail and a tiny back off so that it slides freely with no play then lock em up with the nut. I see no reason why they would ever need to be hardened.

 

[nick952]

"Dog Point" screws and the end is hard.
New Myford still list them and a few other spares :- http://www.myford.co.uk/acatalog/ML10-SET-OF-CROSS-SLIDE-ADJUSTING-SCREWS-2292.html

 

[cumbriasteve]

I think I will make then and see how it goes, should imagine the dog point is simply there to stop the thread being damaged at the end.

 

[cumbriasteve]

A good way of knocking up some screws is to use a 'hick lathe'

Put the screw in your drill (if hand drill clamp to bench) and use a file to profile the tip.

That's my plan, done some decent work in the past by that method, will use the bench drill and set the height against the edge of a flat file, should turn out ok. .

 

[cumbriasteve]

It must be the cold weather affecting my thinking today, just realised there is no need to make or buy them.

When they are full in there is still a short length protruding from the locking nut so all I need to do is run the dremmel into the slot and refresh it a little, as Richard states there is no need to be applying tons of force so as long as a shoulder exists for the screw driver it should be fine.

 

[Richard.]

The shims h

It must be the cold weather affecting my thinking today, just realised there is no need to make or buy them.

When they are full in there is still a short length protruding from the locking nut so all I need to do is run the dremmel into the slot and refresh it a little, as Richard states there is no need to be applying tons of force so as long as a shoulder exists for the screw driver it should be fine.

the nip on the end is simply there to locate on the dip in the shim. They are never nipped up tight or you wouldn't move the slide or worse wear the edge on the dovetail. The lock nuts again just need a nip to stop the screw moving. When you set the screw to the shim set them a tiny bit looser than ideal as no matter how firm you hold it when doing up the lock nut it will tighten the screw that little bit more. Took me a little while setting all mine up to make sure everything slides freely with the absolute minimum play.

 

[cumbriasteve]

I should be sorting the slides towards the weekend with luck, the top slide feels tight even with the screws loosened so some investigation is due, in fairness though I have only had a quick look see in those areas.

 

[Richard.]

I should be sorting the slides towards the weekend with luck, the top slide feels tight even with the screws loosened so some investigation is due, in fairness though I have only had a quick look see in those areas.

There is two flat head screws which hold the lead screw nut in place on the top slide. If they are loose the nut moves in operation causing binding and exaggerated back lash. I know this cos my top slide was also tight feeling. A little nip on those solved it straight away.

 

[cumbriasteve]

Spot on Richard. . First thing I will check

 

[Pete.]

There is two flat head screws which hold the lead screw nut in place on the top slide. If they are loose the nut moves in operation causing binding and exaggerated back lash. I know this cos my top slide was also tight feeling. A little nip on those solved it straight away.

When you do tighten these type of leadscrew nuts you should to it with the slide wound as close to the nut as possible to avoid it binding when to wind the slide in close. If you can't do that then nip the screws up, wind the slide in and if the screw binds in the nut tap around it a bit then wind the slide back out and tighten the screws.

 

[cumbriasteve]

Are the cross and compound nuts adjustable on these as stock?

No idea....all a new world to me, never had anything to do with setting up a lathe.

 

[Turbo]

Ideally you should adjust the gib strips with the cross slide screw disconnected, allowing you to move the slide in & out by hand, that way you can feel when you are at the correct amount of drag.

I think I set mine a tad loose & I'll have to do them again. It could also be the lathe bedding in after a full strip down.