Richard.
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- Cambridgeshire
so i'm going to make a cooler and get a better torch
I can help with that too. I've made a few coolers and bought a few torches.
so i'm going to make a cooler and get a better torch
I can help with that too. I've made a few coolers and bought a few torches.
Budget yourself to your pump. This will be the most expensive part and do some research because the pump needs to be up to the job.
You don't need to make the tank a 4/6 pint milk bottle, Tupperware tub, car expansion tank etc will be fine.
Computer rads and fans are ideal and cheap. Hose, fittings, etc.
If you would like a tank making out of Alu or even a complete chassis and tank for you to build in or even I could make the whole thing to your spec as I have the pumps available pm me for a price plus shipping to Spain.
No probs any time. This was my tank but I can make them how you want to suit your cooler.I'm going for a cheap 12v pump like optima21 used here. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/...-to-use-with-wp20-torch-and-diy-cooler.65542/
Maybe a rad like this, supposedly the crossflow rads have better flow but marginally hotter temps.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161736558368?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Thanks for the offer to make a tank i may take you up on this or use something else until my skills improve.
Yes. They are stainless. They will weld fine. Can you achieve a water tight weld?What about welding a couple of these together for a tank?
Also what are the chances of me being able to weld them together??
Probably not but it will be fun and give me some practice.Yes. They are stainless. They will weld fine. Can you achieve a water tight weld?
You defo need an inside purge for that and you'll need to make some way of filling it a feed and return.
SS tube and a rubber Bung will suffice for a filler neck and cap.Probably not but it will be fun and give me some practice.
What are the options for filling/feed return? The SS filler necks i've seen on ebay are not cheap .
No. I just run them both from separate supplies. I have thought about putting a 230v socket on the cooler for the welder to be plugged into. This would be quite easy to do.Richard do you link the cooler electrcally to your welder so it must be on to weld or just remember to switch it on?
Why don't you drill the lips out on the trays, make a rubber gaslit and bolt them together.Think i will have a go .
For now i will carry on practicing and getting the bits i need for the cooler leaving the tank for now as not sure on what space i will have. Need to get a couple of flow meters for my reg as it has a very small fitting the one i purchased from weld equip would not fit.
Why don't you drill the lips out on the trays, make a rubber gaslit and bolt them together.
Saves buying purging kits and potentially ruining the job. Shame your not local you could of come and done one of my 4 hour tuition sessions on thin stainless welding.
Looking at those trays I'd still purge them on the inside but I actually can't see coking been an issue as you'll be welding along the lips.
If they fit tightly together and you can get plenty of tacks on them you could zip round it without filler and just fuse the edges together. As the edges melt that would be your fill. Zip round them with decent current nice and fast and your distortion will be minimal.
Surface oxides on the inside will be an issue. This is heat tint and causes corrosion on SS. Because your tank is completely sealed up you cannot access it's to treat it.
As your tank will spend its life full of water this may cause a problem. Keep the heat down as much as pos and your travel as fast as pos.
Pics, good or bad.Thanks Richard i may get a couple of small ones to test on.
I'm not shy will always post pics if they are bad. Most are bad .Pics, good or bad.