Over head flxible grinder help

[tommy dunlop]

Still trying to get me head round it,the inner cable don't look to sad to be fair,I recon with 3 hands I might be able to get to outer in place and braze it with the tig,the inner has got about 0.030"play in the bearing .Still trying work out how it comes apart,

 

[tommy dunlop]

How do I get the bearing out.brew time lol

 

[tommy dunlop]

Managed to get it in going try braze it now

 

[tommy dunlop]

If the welds gone inside it could be game over

 

[tommy dunlop]

The inner has a bit of damage hope it's ok

 

[tommy dunlop]

I've got it all back together filled the flex shaft with new grease, she runs and sounds sweet the grease has done the world of good ,I just got one problem it runs backwards on the 900rpm end I've tried switching the live and neutral in the plug but it don't make a blind bit of difference,whether it will run the opposite way on the high speed end I will have to try it, any idear on how to change direction as I won't be able to run a rotory burr,o well I guess every day is a school day lol

 

[500e]

Did the inner screw on with lh thread, good job brazing on the outer
No need to Fill a good glob is Ok
No it won't on an AC motor, bit more complicated.
Don't understand why the Wolfs gear box is set up to both output shafts run one way.
What is the knurled handle??

 

[500e]

The Morrisflex portable garage equipment.

A look at the post-war Morrisflex system, designed for garage mechanics.

www.oldclassiccar.co.uk

 

[500e]

Ciclope s.r.l. - Equipment for grinding, polishing, buffing

Production of automatic and manual surface finishing machines (grinding, linishing, polishing, buffing).

redirect.viglink.com

 

[tommy dunlop]

The knurled knob unserws and that's what the shaft connects to to change the speed and the you put the knurled cap on the other end of the motor ,they both run backwards,I'm guessing it might of been running a polishing head so it throws the crap away from the operator,I've worked out that I can strip the motor and spin the winding around and 're solder the wires and the should change the direction I hope

 

[tommy dunlop]

 

[tommy dunlop]

I was driving to the chip shop and I saw a bloke put it outside he's house for scrap, I pulled up and said is it ok to take it,he said yes I don't know anythink about it ,it was he's dad's,I said thanks and I said I been after one of these for a long while

 

[tommy dunlop]

Thanks for your input it all helps,all I want to do is keep somthink made in great Britain alive

 

[tommy dunlop]

Did the inner screw on with lh thread, good job brazing on the outer
No need to Fill a good glob is Ok
No it won't on an AC motor, bit more complicated.
Don't understand why the Wolfs gear box is set up to both output shafts run one way.
What is the knurled handle??

Inner screw was rh thred also the inner flex looked like it was designed to run clockwise not anti

 

[tommy dunlop]

I've turned the magnets round and guess what ,it still runs backwards bast,, d I can't work it out maybe that's why they put it out for scrap

 

[eddie49]

The motor is a "universal" one, a typical AC motor with brushes, which will also run on DC. It has wound field coils. To reverse the direction of rotation, either swap the two wires connected to the brushes, or swap the field windings.

 

[tommy dunlop]

Hello Eddie it is a a.c./dc motor,I understand swooping the wires to the brushes,I could try that I did switch the feed wires live and nutrual but it didn't make a blind bit difference, is that the same as switching the field wires,thanks for your input I'm at a lost end I might not be needing it the way all this Russia stuff is going,

 

[eddie49]

The mains supply is 230 volts 50 Hz alternating current, which means the Live and Neutral are already changing polarity from positive to negative 50 times per second. That is why swapping the wires over in the plug does not do anything.

To reverse the motor you have to change a magnetic North pole to be a South pole, which means reversing the direction of current in the rotating armature with respect to the fixed field coils.
The two wires going to the brushes are probably easier to access, and they may be flexible wire. The wires at the field coils could be thin solid copper, which can fracture when disturbed. So try the brushes first. I think removing the motor end-cap will allow you to reach them. You may have to add short extra pieces of insulated wire to carry out the swap.

If the brush wire swap-over is not easy, then for the field coils:
There are probably two coils opposite each other, and they will be joined in series. You need to find the input wire to the pair of coils, and the output wire. One connection will be AC mains in, through a field coil, across to the other coil, then out to one of the brushes. The other brush will go back to AC mains. In other words, the two field coils are in series, and the pair are then in series with the armature, via the brushes. To reverse the motor, cross over the input wire to the pair of field coils with the output wire from the coils.

 

[tommy dunlop]

Meanwhile back at camp lol,
Stripped it back down and it looks like I can just pull the wire from the back of the brush with out cutting it ,
(One day Thomas,a man will land on the moon)

 

[eddie49]

That's great!
Looks like the wiring is:
mains in - black wire - first field coil - yellow wire - brush - brush - yellow wire - field coil - black wire - mains out.
So instead of a solid link from one field coil across to the other field coil, that's where the brushes & armature are in series.
The wires are all flexible, and long, and the connections to the brush holders are slip-on spade tags.
I agree, swapping the two yellow wires with tags over should do it...