premmington
Member
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- 5,721
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- Norfolk
That made me laugh! Teehee!
- Thread starter bobl
- Start date
That made me laugh! Teehee!
Good job I had that 5mm to play with. Inside the hole would've ruled this out.
At least I've made a start re my long time wish to do some welding....even if only to make contact.
I have got some projects in mind but have more pressing stuff to get out of the way first.
When the decks are clear it will be my pleasure to return.
I've really enjoyed this despite my problem being a real PITA and boy what a responsive forum.
In the meantime I'll keep my eye open for a more powerful rig at the right price.
Once again...thank you all for your help/encouragement.
At least I've made a start re my long time wish to do some welding....even if only to make contact.
I have got some projects in mind but have more pressing stuff to get out of the way first.
When the decks are clear it will be my pleasure to return.
I've really enjoyed this despite my problem being a real PITA and boy what a responsive forum.
In the meantime I'll keep my eye open for a more powerful rig at the right price.
Once again...thank you all for your help/encouragement.
roofman
Purveyor of fine English buckets and mops
- Messages
- 12,307
- Location
- North West with water on 3 sides
great news its out...ok ive took a day off work tomorrow and ime coming down the M6 to your place with my bench grinder,ile put a new point on your centre punch for ya
. Whats the best way to put a point on a punch chaps,use heat or do it cold???
the snooper
getting older by the day
- Messages
- 21,063
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- Hull UK
your best bet would be to use a soldering iron then a girly nail board to shape the solder into a pointgreat news its out...ok ive took a day off work tomorrow and ime coming down the M6 to your place with my bench grinder,ile put a new point on your centre punch for ya
penfold
Ambassador plenipotentiary
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- 2,116
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- Argyll and Bute, God's own country.
Nononono, all wrong; you must use welsh steam coal to heat to a white heat, then work a new point on the end with a 12oz ballpein. But you must use air from a set of bellows for draft as electric fans are too harsh and the work must be done on at least a 8cwt London pattern anvil, none of the weirdo double bick nonsense.
jinjahbiscuit
Member
- Messages
- 348
normspanners
Member
- Messages
- 8,853
Agh
I SEE!! A few days-------- so it wasnt the hour changing but a similar happening explains it, I bet you tried on the 20th and what you didnt know was that Doc Brown and Marty shot in from the past on the 21st freed it
using a flux generator, without you knowing and then disappeared.Simple --------SEE-------- everything has an answer if you look hard enough.
Well done BUD glad it had a happy end.
At least someone's had one
Last edited:
normspanners
Member
- Messages
- 8,853
HE HE Yeah I think there many of us on here that would like to do both of those.
rkde
Me called Richard
- Messages
- 644
I know some time has passed, if it is not sorted I can come and give a hand, just drop me a message as I work a lot and do not always come on here
the snooper
getting older by the day
- Messages
- 21,063
- Location
- Hull UK
He got it out
Pete.
Member
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- 14,536
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- Kent, UK
Never heard of them. How do they work?
Jim Davey
R H Davey Welding Supplies Ltd
- Messages
- 5,734
- Location
- Southampton
They are a very effective stud removal system. I've used them to recover and build up bolts/studs that have broken off up to 40mm below the surface. You select the size of rod based on the size of the bolt you are tying to recover. Minimum size is about M8 I think. You simply strike up in the centre of the bolt and slowly draw the arc upwards. This creates a vertical weld column which you can keep building. Obviously you have to stop regularly to allow the weld to cool and solidify. But this method puts lots of localised heat directly into the bolt just where you want it. As long as you keep the rod roughly centred the weld will have a dime shaped top and straight sides, the slag forms a protective barrier between the metal you want to weld and the sides of the threaded hole (which obviously you do t want to weld!)
You have to chip away a little of the slag in the middle to make re-striking easy and just keep going till the weld comes past flush. Once you have built it up to a sufficient length to weld a nut on, place a washer over the weld stud first to help guard against welding the nut to the surface and then weld the nut on. Allow it to cools little, don't attempt to twist it out with the nut red hot as it will be soft and shear straight off. Work the bolt gently back and forth, the slag is graphite impregnated and will break up into a fine lubricating powder and if you go careful will allow the bolt to wind out without graunching the threads.
I'm not sure of the composition of the rods but the metal deposited is hard as nails and silver in colour so something with similar properties to 312 dissimilar rods maybe. The main thing is its a high tensile weld and leaves s much stronger weld than you get from trying the same thing with a mig weld which often twists straight off when you try to extract the bolt, and it is designed to protect the threads from spatter etc which mig definitely doesn't. Fine if the stud is past flush but for tough to reach bolts, snapped off well below the surface it's a hard product to beat.
You have to chip away a little of the slag in the middle to make re-striking easy and just keep going till the weld comes past flush. Once you have built it up to a sufficient length to weld a nut on, place a washer over the weld stud first to help guard against welding the nut to the surface and then weld the nut on. Allow it to cools little, don't attempt to twist it out with the nut red hot as it will be soft and shear straight off. Work the bolt gently back and forth, the slag is graphite impregnated and will break up into a fine lubricating powder and if you go careful will allow the bolt to wind out without graunching the threads.
I'm not sure of the composition of the rods but the metal deposited is hard as nails and silver in colour so something with similar properties to 312 dissimilar rods maybe. The main thing is its a high tensile weld and leaves s much stronger weld than you get from trying the same thing with a mig weld which often twists straight off when you try to extract the bolt, and it is designed to protect the threads from spatter etc which mig definitely doesn't. Fine if the stud is past flush but for tough to reach bolts, snapped off well below the surface it's a hard product to beat.
Windy Miller
Semi-Professional Potterer!
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- 3,605
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- North Kent, UK
They sound really good JD. Can you recommend a supplier?
Jim Davey
R H Davey Welding Supplies Ltd
- Messages
- 5,734
- Location
- Southampton
Windy Miller
Semi-Professional Potterer!
- Messages
- 3,605
- Location
- North Kent, UK
Nice one Jim - I'll bear that in mind!
God mode restorations
Member
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- 8,151
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- uk colchester
Sounds cool.never heard of them before .learn something new every day.....will put some of thoes on me I wants list....
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- 22,517
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- Birmingham
Found this on Youtube
