remove broken 10mm cylinder head bolt with 5mm sticking up

[premmington]

Nice tight fitting washer over protruding snapped bolt! Weld washer to bolt. Then weld M10 17mm hex nut to washer inside and around the circumference of washer. MMA 110amps DC+ 312 rod. Loads of heat, while it cooling spray with WD40.

% chance very good. If you fail, grind the weld off and start drilling.

I have succeeded more times than I have failed!

This is what MMA welding was designed for! Loads of heat and penetration with slag surrounding it!

I am a car mechanic, I have removed loads of snapped bolts in thirty years with this method.

 

[the snooper]

Weld a nut on is the best choice also try shocking it with a hammer to try and break the rust seal as the bolt shouldn't be at the end of the threads in the block

 

[bobl]

Ok just tried the propane torch....nada as advised.
I did take the opportunity to tap the bolt and drip some WD40 down. I'll keep doing this as suggested.
Whilst trying the torch...it struck me just how weak my grip on the bolt is resulting from my pipe grips and 5mm of metal.
I've gotta get me some mole-grips!
I'm a rubbish welder at present so do hear the danger of me blowing through a washer.
My welder (old Kel-Arc) is only 50 amps so what rod do you think would work best for that.
BTW Thanks everyone for your advice...I've read all of your posts and all make sense
i.e. left handed drills...drill guides etc are certainly worth the effort IMHO.
I'll try welding first and see how we go.
Rest assured I'll keep you posted re developments.

 

[God mode restorations]

The welding route will be your best bet..if that fails then drill it out.time consuming but works.i have removed quite a few broken head bolts with the welding method...if you weld it on just go easy with trying to remove it.just gradually apply preasure left to right..don't go steaming in with a big bar as you will most likely brake it further down or ruin the thred. ..

 

[ajlelectronics]

Try some penetrating oil. Make a ring with plasticine or similar to form a well. Fill it with penetrating oil and leave overnight to do it's magic. I favour ATF/Acetone mix, otherwise PlusGas. You may as well use black magic incantations, as WD-40 which in my opinion is a triumph of presentation over capability.

 

[I'm getting on a bit]

Using a suitable E socket grind the socket to get a sharp edge.

Heating the casting and the stub of the stud hammer on the socket. The sharp edge will cut the profile and the hammering will help dislodge the stud

Then use impact driver to remove stud

Welding a nut is not gonna work in this case

Measure stud centres beforehand in case you need a jig for drilling

 

[roofman]

Using a suitable E socket grind the socket to get a sharp edge.

Heating the casting and the stub of the stud hammer on the socket. The sharp edge will cut the profile and the hammering will help dislodge the stud

Then use impact driver to remove stud

Welding a nut is not gonna work in this case

Measure stud centres beforehand in case you need a jig for drilling

What makes you think that or am i missing something
That thing would come out easliy with a nut sitting flat on the block over the stud and welded to the stud...The heat alone would do 70% of the job

 

[I'm getting on a bit]

What makes you think that or am i missing something
That thing would come out easliy with a nut sitting flat on the block over the stud and welded to the stud...The heat alone would do 70% of the job

No welded on nut is ever going to be as strong as the original stud

 

[premmington]

Try some penetrating oil. Make a ring with plasticine or similar to form a well. Fill it with penetrating oil and leave overnight to do it's magic. I favour ATF/Acetone mix, otherwise PlusGas. You may as well use black magic incantations, as WD-40 which in my opinion is a triumph of presentation over capability.

I also think this is the best "penetrating fluid"

 

[roofman]

No welded on nut is ever going to be as strong as the original stud

Never failed me yet matey...heat is your friend

 

[God mode restorations]

I am not dissing other idears hear.but the welding nut has never failed me yet...mostly on v8 stuff .and I would turn it out gradually by hand...impact driver is to harsh and most likely result in three gailling. Just my opinion of course.

 

[Sidewinder]

Welding a nut on works for me 99+% of the time, and being patient.
However, I only every use arc as I was taught as an apprentice, used it for 5mm up to 25mm+ bolts and never had an issue, in fact did one about 3" down inside an aluminium gearbox, took an hour or so, the other option was engine & box out, not a nice thought.
Always arc & always with either a Eutectic 680s or a Fontargen E106, 2.5 for up to about M16 then 3.25 above that.
However, also go with the Plus Gas.
I would never attempt to drill that stud.
Blob the weld on in tacks making a "stalagmite" until it gets above the thickness of the nut, the larger in diameter you can make the stalagmite the better, nut, say say an M12, then weld the nut to the welded stalagmite.
Let it go off red, then plus gas then get a spanner on it and remove it like tapping a hole in reverse as it were a bit forward then a bit back and repeat, keep adding the plus gas, and even as has been suggested, once cool enough make a dam around it and fill it.
Patience.
Oh and cover as much of the gasket face with a steel sheet as you can, to prevent anything getting anywhere it shouldn't.

 

[normspanners]

Only issue is that using an arc welder to do this is like using a sledge hammer to break your toffee up.

WHY??
I use my inverter arc welder out of preference to do jobs like this and it works fine, if the stud is a little short build it up at the end first this then sends heat down the stud expanding the steel when the steel cools it has made some clearance albeit small.

Then what I do is put a nut over the stud but space it up slightly weld it pull out the spacer, then whilst it is still hot smack the end with a hammer HARD down through the stud to send shock down the thread this then helps free off the threads deep down

 

[wristpin]

Find a nice thick washer of the right inner diameter and get someone to mig that to the stud then drop a largish nut over and weld round the outside on to the washer. Easier and more reliable than trying to weld down through a nut onto the stud.
Easyouts - a receipt for disaster!!!!!!!

 

[MattH]

WHY??
I use my inverter arc welder out of preference to do jobs like this and it works fine, if the stud is a little short build it up at the end first this then sends heat down the stud expanding the steel when the steel cools it has made some clearance albeit small.

Then what I do is put a nut over the stud but space it up slightly weld it pull out the spacer, then whilst it is still hot smack the end with a hammer HARD down through the stud to send shock down the thread this then helps free off the threads deep down

Because the OP has said he's not welded for years and admits that he's not very good with it. With a Mig you can slow it down whereas doing the same with MMA is going to take some skill.
Can it be done with Arc? I'm sure. Could I do a better job with Arc over Mig? Not a chance.

Very easy to burn the top of the stud away with a basic Arc welder and a rusty user.

 

[I'm getting on a bit]

Never failed me yet matey...heat is your friend

I did say use heat.
But the heat from a welded nut is gonna do jack

 

[steveo3002]

you mention your grips werent very good , while i doubt these will fix the problem theyre worth having and work as advertised

see the vid at 2.30 ish , they really are superb

 

[roofman]

I did say use heat.
But the heat from a welded nut is gonna do jack

your joking arnt you..LOL within 5 seconds that nut and stud will be cherry red right into the threaded parts..

 

[MattH]

your joking arnt you..LOL within 5 seconds that nut and stud will be cherry red right into the threaded parts..

That's my experience. The process of welding the nut on will heat the entire stud. The stud is the only place for the heat to go before it spreads into the block.

 

[bobl]

Right...got some 10inch Draper molegrips coming for a fiver all-in. Not Britool but I've done ok with Draper in the past.
I read a few reviews beforehand of people who'd cheap-skated on molegrips and lived to regret it.
Those same people seemed to rate Draper as very serviceable.

Having said that those Knipex pliers look amazing...My pliers "look" similar but don't perform like that.

Thanks for the penetrating oil advice. In fact it's not WD40 I'm using...it's the stuff from Harrison's/Pound shop...so they didn't get me with their marketing. Nonetheless...I hear what you say and here's some figures
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/penetrating-oil-showdown.350800/
I wasn't aware of any difference so....Thanks for the education.

___Always arc & always with either a Eutectic 680s or a Fontargen E106, 2.5 for up to about M16
Thank you for that