remove broken 10mm cylinder head bolt with 5mm sticking up

[I'm getting on a bit]

your joking arnt you..LOL within 5 seconds that nut and stud will be cherry red right into the threaded parts..

I think you are the joker expecting that to travel 75mm deep

I am basing this on trying this very scenario using an oxy torch for 20min of red heat and failed to undo stud and this was only 20mm deep

 

[steveo3002]

your joking arnt you..LOL within 5 seconds that nut and stud will be cherry red right into the threaded parts..

the fact its such instant fierce heat is what helps ...you can stand there all day with a blow lamp and the block will soak it away , but the welder gets it hot fast

 

[roofman]

Right...got some 10inch Draper molegrips coming for a fiver all-in. Not Britool but I've done ok with Draper in the past.
Thanks for the penetrating oil advice. In fact it's not WD40 I'm using...it's the stuff from Harrison's/Pound shop...so they didn't get me with their marketing :
Nonetheless...I hear what you say and here's some figures
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/penetrating-oil-showdown.350800/
In truth I wasn't aware of any difference so....Thanks for the education.

dont want to interfere here but you chew that remaining piece of stud up with moleys and your chance of removal without the house of pain decreases by a vast amount...your engine so goodluck

 

[doubleboost]

Is that a rover K series engine
If it is the studs / bolts go all the way down in to the main bearings
Weld a nut on would be my method

 

[steveo3002]

dont want to interfere here but you chew that remaining piece of stud up with moleys and your chance of removal without the house of pain decreases by a vast amount...your engine so goodluck

yeah i agree , soak it with some good penetrant , splash out on some plus gas and hope someone comes forward with a welder , if you chew that stump off youve made it harder

 

[bobl]

I'm not intending to use the moleys on what's there now....they are for use if I can get some build-up...I'm with you re protecting what little I've got and know I need quite a bit of force unless the heat does it all. For a fiver they're worth having but those Nipex cobras look great.
I will make a well and drip some good stuff down. Thanks.
BTW It's a Skoda Felicia 1.3...you know.,...pushrods and stuff.

 

[normspanners]

This an 8mm one I have just done and finished a few minutes ago, by drilling out, it is the water pump housing on a peugeot 206 in the first pic you can see the original thread,it is the shiny hole, above the water pump hole, all that I did was drilled it tapping size 6.8 then picked out the old steel thread like taking out a damaged helicoil. Then ran a 8mm tap down it, to clean it.
The long hex you can see in the second photo was the bolt head that sheared off leaving the thread in the ally housing.
Which I drilled down the old hex and tapped it 8mm screwed a new 8mm bolt in with locktite, till it bottomed then cut off the new bolt head, that then remade the original bolt with a long head and a male thread, the hole in the other end is 6mm for a timing cover bolt to go in, The third pic is the old pump and repaired bolt back in place to check the bolt length.
this was all done with a makita cordless drill by eye.

 

[Woody.v8]

Is that a rover K series engine
If it is the studs / bolts go all the way down in to the main bearings
Weld a nut on would be my method

And DON'T turn the engine over with the head off!

 

[500e]

Welding nut is the way to go, Remember all of those sprays can catch fire when sprayed on hot things same as ATF\Acetone
WD40 stands for Water Dispersant . Never rated it as a release agent, Kerosene\ Paraffin is good

Knipex 86 03 250 good very good, don't buy from S-on rip of price

 

[bobl]

___Kerosene\ Paraffin is good
I didn't know that...Thanks.
I did know not to turn the engine...I've also set it to not be a TDC in any cylinder
They look great pliers...I'm very much on a budget so don't buy anything at rip-off prices. Thanks for the advice anyway.

 

[normspanners]

s that a rover K series engine
If it is the studs / bolts go all the way down in to the main bearings
Weld a nut on would be my method

looking now I think you are right it does look k series then it wont be the thread that is tight I have done litterally hundreds and NEVER had a bolt shear it will be the bolt shaft that has rusted and expanded into the block.

 

[ajlelectronics]

The beauty of the ATF mix for me is that I have lots of it and because I do fibreglass, I have Acetone. I use if from a tall coffee jar and leave a small paintbrush in there ready for use. I prefer to paint it on where I want it, than spray it. Even just as a thread lubricant, it works nicely taking apart old fasteners.

 

[bobl]

it's a Skoda Felicia
___ATF mix
It was the best in that test so is definitely worth trying.
___Always arc & always with either a Eutectic 680s or a Fontargen E106, 2.5 for up to about M16 then 3.25 above that.
Will those rods work with this...
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/kel-arc-welder.4207/

Drilling the thing out looks impressive but this is about 10mm dia and 65mm down. It's in rock solid i.e. my 10mm hex socket was twisting like you wouldn't believe before the bolt broke. I was using 14.5 inch britool breaker bar to apply the pressure and although I wasn't going wild I was really having to give it some. This things in tight and I really think it needs heat or drilling almost to the threads to break the "seal".
That's the feeling I get anyway.

 

[Woody.v8]

Vise grip are the best "mole grips" on the market, But i think your ******* in the wind trying to grip the short protruding stud.

 

[bobl]

Me too. I've already said they're just in case I manage to build the stud up without a nut
i.e. I don't want to have to wait to get some if that's what has to happen.
I'm just trying to cover all eventualities and a fiver's not a lot.

 

[Chris Stevens]

it's a Skoda Felicia
___ATF mix
It was the best in that test so is definitely worth trying.
___Always arc & always with either a Eutectic 680s or a Fontargen E106, 2.5 for up to about M16 then 3.25 above that.
Will those rods work with this...
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/kel-arc-welder.4207/

Drilling the thing out looks impressive but this is about 10mm dia and 65mm down. It's in rock solid i.e. my 10mm hex socket was twisting like you wouldn't believe before the bolt broke. I was using 14.5 inch britool breaker bar to apply the pressure and was really having to give it some. This things in tight and I really think needs heat or drilling almost to the threads.
That's the feeling I get anyway.

If its that tight, you might move it with blob of weld directly on the bolt, and tapping the end pretty hard, while trying to wind out with a mole wrench. But I would guess you will end up having to drill it, thats probably be the only way. Will be pretty hard, but you can regrind a masonry drill, rather than buying an expensive carbide one.

 

[bobl]

Thanks for the advice. It does sound very sensible.
It is that tight so it wouldn't surprise me if this is one of the weld-method failures but I'd like to have a bloody good try at that.
Do you have a picture of what sort of profile I need the masonry drill to have if welding doesn't work.
Believe me...I'm going to try and make it work.

 

[bobl]

BTW Whats the secret to making the metal from the electrode stick to the bolt rather than the electrode melting the bolt away.
I am fearful of doing the latter with my little 50amp so...what are the checkpoints to doing it right?

 

[Woody.v8]

The correct current and arc length and a good dollop of skill.

 

[bobl]

Thank you.
I think this things fixed at 50amps i.e. there's no knob to adjust.

On yahoo it says this...
Having a long arc length will produce a wide weld with poor penetration.
A very short arc length produces a narrow weld, and the electrode may fuse to the work.
For a strong weld, you want an arc length that provides adequate penetration and bead size.

I'm not sure "adequate penetration" is what I'm after re my 5mm protrusion or is it.
Given that I'm not going to run a line i.e. just build up a blob at a time....how long should I strike my arc for?
Are we talking dabbing the thing or should it be longer
i.e. when doing CPR you should hum "staying alive".
Are there some similar rules of thumb when welding.
I suppose I can practice on the broken bolt

Also where do people get good welding rods from in Birmingham

Any advice much appreciated.
BTW If I haven't already said it...what a very helpful and vibrant forum this is.
Thank to all who've contributed.
I've learnt a lot in one day.