cocker
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- lincs , England
How about an Irwin nut and stud removal set? I have found them quite good.
I've had very little success with any of these things
How about an Irwin nut and stud removal set? I have found them quite good.
only problem would be no heat with that methodHow about an Irwin nut and stud removal set? I have found them quite good.
And nowt to grip! OP says 5mm protruding, I tell you what if the OP was closer i would have done it by now without all this conflab! (no offence Snoop, just couldn't be bothered to make a separate post)only problem would be no heat with that method
In this instance, 5mm is not a lot to bite on!only problem would be no heat with that method
having the right tools makes every thing easyAnd nowt to grip! OP says 5mm protruding, I tell you what if the OP was closer i would have done it by now without all this conflab! (no offence Snoop, just couldn't be bothered to make a separate post)
Too true, We get spoilt as we get better equipped!having the right tools makes every thing easy
without a doubt, how did we ever manage n the pastToo true, We get spoilt as we get better equipped!
Longbridge/BirminghamIff the OP is northwest (Chester) region ile sort it for him not a problem or at the very least have a go
Oh well its mole grips time then unless anyone else wants to try help...hate seeing guys struggling for solutions as ive been there myselfLongbridge/Birmingham
I'll go with the crowd on this weld a nut on get it glowing. It would help a heck of a lot if you put a specific location on your profile rather than uk. This will encourage the experienced and helpful members on your door step to offer you the use of there welders and help you get the thing out. If your near the Royston cambs area Id gladly help you out.
Now to the minority that says this won't work. Yes I agree the welded nut won't be as strong as the original that snapped but it doesn't need to be in fact once it's hot that heat will quickly disapate down the bolt shaft. Yes 75 mm with out issue. The bolt will expand and crack that stubborn rust seal. The Alu head will suck the heat away from the bolt also and also expand a little. The expansion of the heated parts is what makes this work and a lot less force is required to crack it loose. I've done this before on snapped studs and in most cases they move pretty easy.
I've been wrong in the past, I thought I was wrong but I wasnt.
This is why i said initially that i would use impact to remove said stud after welding, the shock moves what torsion wouldn't.You raise some interesting points and you are someone I respect for your tig knowledge.
But no disrespect you agree that a welded nut would not match the strength of the stud, but he broke the stud trying to remove it so the nut will fail.
Now you rightly say that heat helps, but not a what 1 to 2 second burst, but not to a depth of 75mm as you say surrounded by heat sucking aluminium.
Now when I suggested that even continuall heating has failed for me a comedian said this was wrong.
But the reason it failed was because the casting was sucking the heat away.
But it could work in this case due to the nature of the casting as it looks in the picture.
At the end of the day I am only trying to help the op get his problem solved not trying to contradict just for the sake of it.
I've been wrong in the past, I thought I was wrong but I wasnt.
the thing is it does work and has been used by plenty of us on here, and has worked when heating the external of the component has failedNow you rightly say that heat helps, but not a what 1 to 2 second burst, but not to a depth of 75mm as you say surrounded by heat sucking aluminium.
. Not wishing to disagree but I have welded hundreds of nuts onto sheared bolts brake pipe fittings etc etc and have sheared the stud again further down so the welding method CAN be just as strong at joining the nut to the stud.No welded on nut is ever going to be as strong as the original stud
I wonder if it works because the oxide layer between stud and componant form a partial insulating layer? Any thoughts?the thing is it does work and has been used by plenty of us on here, and has worked when heating the external of the component has failed
This is why i said initially that i would use impact to remove said stud after welding, the shock moves what torsion wouldn't.
not to sure on the chemistry of it, it could be that the expanding bolt compacts the rust slightly leaving space for it to moveI wonder if it works because the oxide layer between stud and componant form a partial insulating layer? Any thoughts?
Cheers and likewise I respect a lot of your knowledgeable posts too.You raise some interesting points and you are someone I respect for your tig knowledge.
But no disrespect you agree that a welded nut would not match the strength of the stud, but he broke the stud trying to remove it so the nut will fail.
Now you rightly say that heat helps, but not a what 1 to 2 second burst, but not to a depth of 75mm as you say surrounded by heat sucking aluminium.
Now when I suggested that even continuall heating has failed for me a comedian said this was wrong.
But the reason it failed was because the casting was sucking the heat away.
But it could work in this case due to the nature of the casting as it looks in the picture.
At the end of the day I am only trying to help the op get his problem solved not trying to contradict just for the sake of it.
I've been wrong in the past, I thought I was wrong but I wasnt.