- Thread starter bobl
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winchman
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If you really have to drill it make a guide, its difficult to explain but here goes.
Piece of bar about 30mm long and a bigger diameter than the bolt, drill straight through it about 4mm diameter, counter bore a little deeper than the protruding stud , bore it so its a tight fit over the stud, then it should guide the drill in more central, make a new one or drill out the old one each time you need to go bigger.
Personally I would try welding a nut on first but its all down to what equipment you have .
I have one of these and its fantastic and rarely fails
https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/10-screw-extractor-set
It was about £100 but its well paid for its self
Piece of bar about 30mm long and a bigger diameter than the bolt, drill straight through it about 4mm diameter, counter bore a little deeper than the protruding stud , bore it so its a tight fit over the stud, then it should guide the drill in more central, make a new one or drill out the old one each time you need to go bigger.
Personally I would try welding a nut on first but its all down to what equipment you have .
I have one of these and its fantastic and rarely fails
https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/10-screw-extractor-set
It was about £100 but its well paid for its self
winchman
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Now that's excellent advice
the snooper
getting older by the day
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i think doing it that way using rods he runs the risk of cold welds and the nut will just twist off, I think he will need to give it a good blast and not with 1.5mm rods either
the snooper
getting older by the day
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hmm forgot about that, that doesn't help at all
Thank you for advising that I should get plenty of practice.
I hear you re cold welds on the real thing but re practicing I probably do need to practice striking the arc, being steady and depositing small amounts i.e. practiciing control in the first instance. I'm going to buy new head bolts so have all the old ones to practice on.
Thank you also for the drill angles...Again I wasn't aware of that.
Same goes for the jig design/construction.
This is all very useful stuff and much appreciated.
That is a nice-looking scew-extractor.
I hear you re cold welds on the real thing but re practicing I probably do need to practice striking the arc, being steady and depositing small amounts i.e. practiciing control in the first instance. I'm going to buy new head bolts so have all the old ones to practice on.
Thank you also for the drill angles...Again I wasn't aware of that.
Same goes for the jig design/construction.
This is all very useful stuff and much appreciated.
That is a nice-looking scew-extractor.
God mode restorations
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Out of interest. .you say your going to buy new head bolts..it might be worth having a look for companies that make or do performance engine rebuilds and see if they make or do a head stud kit.far better than bolts and save a lot of hassle if you brake one ..
___do a head stud kit.far better than bolts and save a lot of hassle if you brake one ..
Yes...very good suggestion. I'm really not impressed with being in this situation at all
i.e. this engine dates from the 60's and it appears that this is a very common problem....
You'd have thought someone would have sorted it out by the time Felicia's came out.
Having said that I did a Favorit before (no snapped bolts) and it went on for another 80K miles before I scrapped it.
The engine was fine.
____worked an absolute treat. Endless amounts of WD40 didn't touch it
That's very good to know...Thank you for taking the trouble to mention it.
Can I ask where you got the acetone from please
oops thanks for the strike plate advice....that sounds really good for a newbie like me
Yes...very good suggestion. I'm really not impressed with being in this situation at all
i.e. this engine dates from the 60's and it appears that this is a very common problem....
You'd have thought someone would have sorted it out by the time Felicia's came out.
Having said that I did a Favorit before (no snapped bolts) and it went on for another 80K miles before I scrapped it.
The engine was fine.
____worked an absolute treat. Endless amounts of WD40 didn't touch it
That's very good to know...Thank you for taking the trouble to mention it.
Can I ask where you got the acetone from please
oops thanks for the strike plate advice....that sounds really good for a newbie like me
rusty weld
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In my view and speaking from over 50years of fitting turning and welding I can see no way any form of hand pressure gripping device is going to remove that stud so would be a complete waste of time and risks damage to the head.
It has been suggested welding a washer then a nut on top, this in my opinion has the greatest chance of success with the adition of raising the washer very slightly before welding so it doesn't bind and cause friction when undoing.
If the stud shears flush, I would drill it and to keep the drill central, if logistics allow, would replace the head then make and temper a steel bush that would slide in the stud hole and have a clearance hole for the pilot drill.
It has been suggested welding a washer then a nut on top, this in my opinion has the greatest chance of success with the adition of raising the washer very slightly before welding so it doesn't bind and cause friction when undoing.
If the stud shears flush, I would drill it and to keep the drill central, if logistics allow, would replace the head then make and temper a steel bush that would slide in the stud hole and have a clearance hole for the pilot drill.
wristpin
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That is, in the words of my maths master of many years ago, a very elegant solution !
Richard.
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I'll go with the crowd on this weld a nut on get it glowing. It would help a heck of a lot if you put a specific location on your profile rather than uk. This will encourage the experienced and helpful members on your door step to offer you the use of there welders and help you get the thing out. If your near the Royston cambs area Id gladly help you out.
Now to the minority that says this won't work. Yes I agree the welded nut won't be as strong as the original that snapped but it doesn't need to be in fact once it's hot that heat will quickly disapate down the bolt shaft. Yes 75 mm with out issue. The bolt will expand and crack that stubborn rust seal. The Alu head will suck the heat away from the bolt also and also expand a little. The expansion of the heated parts is what makes this work and a lot less force is required to crack it loose. I've done this before on snapped studs and in most cases they move pretty easy.
Now to the minority that says this won't work. Yes I agree the welded nut won't be as strong as the original that snapped but it doesn't need to be in fact once it's hot that heat will quickly disapate down the bolt shaft. Yes 75 mm with out issue. The bolt will expand and crack that stubborn rust seal. The Alu head will suck the heat away from the bolt also and also expand a little. The expansion of the heated parts is what makes this work and a lot less force is required to crack it loose. I've done this before on snapped studs and in most cases they move pretty easy.
the snooper
getting older by the day
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also don't weld the nut on tight to the block as they often start to move when you tighten them first so you need room to go back and fourth
ajlelectronics
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How about an Irwin nut and stud removal set? I have found them quite good.
