remove broken 10mm cylinder head bolt with 5mm sticking up

[Woody.v8]

My first post on this thread said use impact driver

No impact driver, A slow impact from an air gun or similar.

 

[normspanners]

I think you are the joker expecting that to travel 75mm deep

I have defrosted copper pipes for metres at a time using a stick welded by making a perfect connection to either end and applying the power which heats up the whole length of pipe without damaging the pipe.
the bolt will be only connected properly to the block by the thread not the rust so heating it with a welder will heat it deep into the block.

 

[rusty weld]

My first post on this thread said use impact driver

To use an impact tool with a socket, the socket would need another nut of the same size to pack it out or the impact from the outer rim would strike and damage the head

 

[normspanners]

not to sure on the chemistry of it, it could be that the expanding bolt compacts the rust slightly leaving space for it to move

would like to like this twice

 

[Woody.v8]

To use an impact tool with a socket, the socket would need another nut of the same size to pack it out or the impact from the outer rim would strike and damage the head

The heads on the bench!

 

[the snooper]

would like to like this twice

you old smoothie

 

[I'm getting on a bit]

the thing is it does work and has been used by plenty of us on here, and has worked when heating the external of the component has failed

I will enlighten you.

You have to heat the outer surface ie the aluminium as aluminium expands more than steel "coefficient of expansion " that is what breaks the bond not heating the stud

 

[rusty weld]

The heads on the bench!

well the top of the block then! but you know what im getting at?

 

[the snooper]

I will enlighten you.

You have to heat the outer surface ie the aluminium as aluminium expands more than steel "coefficient of expansion " that is what breaks the bond not heating the stud

well it would seem there are quite a lot of us that have successfully used this method and only your lonesome self saying it wont work.
BTW you didn't enlighten me

 

[Woody.v8]

I have myself used this process of welding and impact many thousands of times to remove snapped off fasteners of various sizes, And although it doesn't always work it usually does and that's good enough for me.

 

[normspanners]

You have to heat the outer surface ie the aluminium as aluminium expands more than steel "coefficient of expansion " that is what breaks the bond not heating the stud

When I do it I let the bolt cool before putting any significant torque on it but I have on some long bolts drilled the stud down the middle ie rifle bore it then filled the end with weld then weld the nut on this allows the stud, A/ to get hotter and B/ to then shrink then collapse slightly for it to free off

 

[Richard.]

I will enlighten you.

You have to heat the outer surface ie the aluminium as aluminium expands more than steel "coefficient of expansion " that is what breaks the bond not heating the stud

It's a fair point and yes if you want to remove a steel nut from a bolt you warm the nut to expand it. In this case you can't warm the whole Alu head........ But think about it you are doing this. The Alu will as we agree suck the heat out of that glowing stud, it will also hold that heat well due to its conductivity. And there for we are heating the head too (indirectly) we don't need to get it that hot to start expanding remember it melts at 600degree C. It will expand a little and a little is all it needs. This is why it works.

 

[I'm getting on a bit]

well it would seem there are quite a lot of us that have successfully used this method and only your lonesome self saying it wont work.
BTW you didn't enlighten me

Maybe you could show how this would work on video.

You select a 10 mm stud weld a nut on the end.

You fix the stud securely and shear the stud without the weld failing.

I will look forward to seeing the video

 

[normspanners]

What tends to happen with head bolts is the head gasket starts to leak this forces aerated water with combustion gases which is a VERY corrosive mix, into places at high pressure this can spot corrode steel and ally at an alarming rate.
If this has happened and forced this mix down the bolt clearance that is the main problem here.

 

[Woody.v8]

Maybe you could show how this would work on video.

You select a 10 mm stud weld a nut on the end.

You fix the stud securely and shear the stud without the weld failing.

I will look forward to seeing the video

I could do it time and time again and the weld would never fail.

 

[the snooper]

Maybe you could show how this would work on video.

You select a 10 mm stud weld a nut on the end.

You fix the stud securely and shear the stud without the weld failing.

I will look forward to seeing the video

now your just being a little silly, if I were to take a 10mm stud and try it of course it wouldn't sheer the stud (ive never tried), but the fact the stud sheered whilst on the engine is because the head gasket leaks and corrodes things.
I don't intend to keep replying back and fourth, if you don't think the method works then fine that's your choice but as I said earlier there are quite a few people here saying it does, maybe we are all wrong and was simply an illusion when we did it who knows.

 

[I'm getting on a bit]

It's a fair point and yes if you want to remove a steel nut from a bolt you warm the nut to expand it. In this case you can't warm the whole Alu head........ But think about it you are doing this. The Alu will as we agree suck the heat out of that glowing stud, it will also hold that heat well due to its conductivity. And there for we are heating the head too (indirectly) we don't need to get it that hot to start expanding remember it melts at 600degree C. It will expand a little and a little is all it needs. This is why it works.

I know it works I said it in my very first post

 

[Richard.]

Maybe you could show how this would work on video.

You select a 10 mm stud weld a nut on the end.

You fix the stud securely and shear the stud without the weld failing.

I will look forward to seeing the video

The weld will not fail....... Your point is valid though because the heat generated by welding will make the studding weaker so it will break easier than the original bolt but unlikely on the weld. However as I've said it doesn't need to be as strong it will come out easier with the heat.

 

[I'm getting on a bit]

now your just being a little silly, if I were to take a 10mm stud and try it of course it wouldn't sheer the stud (ive never tried), but the fact the stud sheered whilst on the engine is because the head gasket leaks and corrodes things.
I don't intend to keep replying back and fourth, if you don't think the method works then fine that's your choice but as I said earlier there are quite a few people here saying it does, maybe we are all wrong and was simply an illusion when we did it who knows.

No I already stated I am trying to help the op.

I said a welded nut wouldn't work IN THIS CASE

You and others said it would now you are saying it wouldn't

So we agree

 

[normspanners]

this one shows the drilling to relieve the stud strength

and this one