Show us your bench vice(s)

[Dieselman 63]

Jeez this thread has become boring. It’s all electroplating car parts and rust removal…

At this rate I might have to start restoring some of my vices to retain sanity

(Think there’s about 12 in the queue…)

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Jeez this thread has become boring. It’s all electroplating car parts and rust removal…

At this rate I might have to start restoring some of my vices to retain sanity

(Think there’s about 12 in the queue…)

Please start.

My next vice to restore is a bit hidden, until the week end.



Did you have any sanity?

 

[GraemeVW]

Jeez this thread has become boring. It’s all electroplating car parts and rust removal…

At this rate I might have to start restoring some of my vices to retain sanity

(Think there’s about 12 in the queue…)

Get it done!

To Get things more back on track, I tapped the bolt holes for my fortis 10 3j's rear jaw today. Snapped the first tap even though I was going very gentle. New tap, bigger than recommended drill size, and some oil got it done.
Seems with a O1 isn't nice to tap, or I've dramatically lost my touch.
Front jaws will be drilled and tapped tonight, then decisions.

Do I serate the new jaws? Do I harden and temper them? Or do i leave them smooth and soft?

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Do I serate the new jaws? Do I harden and temper them? Or do i leave them smooth and soft?

What is the main use for the vice?
You can always make a set of clip on jaws for soft materials.

 

[GraemeVW]

What is the main use for the vice?
You can always make a set of clip on jaws for soft materials.

I don't know. Not too heavy I guess. Will be kept for occasional holding of awkward stuff.
Probably 50/50 of stuff I just need to hold, and stuff I need to hold without damage.

Serating the jaws won't be easy though. I'd have to do it by hand (file? Sharp chisel?), or borrow some time on a mill (although I don't know what I'm doing on a mill).

 

[SteveB58]

Get it done!

To Get things more back on track, I tapped the bolt holes for my fortis 10 3j's rear jaw today. Snapped the first tap even though I was going very gentle. New tap, bigger than recommended drill size, and some oil got it done.
Seems with a O1 isn't nice to tap, or I've dramatically lost my touch.
Front jaws will be drilled and tapped tonight, then decisions.

Do I serate the new jaws? Do I harden and temper them? Or do i leave them smooth and soft?

Using a larger tapping drill can lead to a ill fitting bolt which cannot be correctly tightened. Sometimes people try to tap out a new hole with the plug when they should be using the starter or tapered tap and work up to the plug. Oil is not the greatest lubricate for thread cutting, GP grease will do, we used an ill selling grease called Trefolex which seemed to last forever. It was known everywhere as 'crazy woman s***."

 

[GraemeVW]

Using a larger tapping drill can lead to a ill fitting bolt which cannot be correctly tightened. Sometimes people try to tap out a new hole with the plug when they should be using the starter or tapered tap and work up to the plug. Oil is not the greatest lubricate for thread cutting, GP grease will do, we used an ill selling grease called Trefolex which seemed to last forever. It was known everywhere as 'crazy woman s***."

Yeah, not the best "cutting fluid" but it was next to me.
It was a 5/16 unc tap, so 6.6mm drill.
At first I went 6.5mm, first tap snapped very quickly even though I had hardly any pressure on it.
Bought a presto hss tap and there was no way it was going to cut the thread.
Drilled to 6.7mm and tried again, but absolutely no way. I could cut about 2° rotation, then back off, get it feeling nice again, cut another 2°, and that was using enough pressure to think i wouldnt be surprised if this snaps!
So, drilled them out to 7mm and it sort of felt like any other hole ive ever tapped in steel, maybe on the harder end of the scale. Even drilled at 7mm it wasn't easy.

I don't think there is any way I could tap 5/16 unc, in O1 steel, with a 6.6mm pilot, without snapping taps.

Did what i had to do.
Bolts feel ok, wouldn't like it if they were critical, but it's only holding vice jaws on.

Tap is a 1st taper.
Thinking about it, I don't think ive ever used actual cutting fluid to tap a thread!

 

[SteveB58]

Yeah, not the best "cutting fluid" but it was next to me.
It was a 5/16 unc tap, so 6.6mm drill.
At first I went 6.5mm, first tap snapped very quickly even though I had hardly any pressure on it.
Bought a presto hss tap and there was no way it was going to cut the thread.
Drilled to 6.7mm and tried again, but absolutely no way. I could cut about 2° rotation, then back off, get it feeling nice again, cut another 2°, and that was using enough pressure to think i wouldnt be surprised if this snaps!
So, drilled them out to 7mm and it sort of felt like any other hole ive ever tapped in steel, maybe on the harder end of the scale. Even drilled at 7mm it wasn't easy.

I don't think there is any way I could tap 5/16 unc, in O1 steel, with a 6.6mm pilot, without snapping taps.

Did what i had to do.
Bolts feel ok, wouldn't like it if they were critical, but it's only holding vice jaws on.

Tap is a 1st taper.
Thinking about it, I don't think ive ever used actual cutting fluid to tap a thread!

You know, I don't think I did either once away from the fitting shop. Trefolex was horrible, it was thick, smelly and got everywhere.

 

[ranger08]

can anyone tell me how old this vice is, im picking pre ww1

 

[ranger08]

Jeez this thread has become boring. It’s all electroplating car parts and rust removal…

At this rate I might have to start restoring some of my vices to retain sanity

(Think there’s about 12 in the queue…)

its about vices right? vice can be very addictive

 

[My Old Landy]

its about vices right? vice can be very addictive

View attachment 319978

A very nice collection

 

[dannysheff]

can anyone tell me how old this vice is, im picking pre ww1View attachment 319977

yes, and not common. Nice.
I believe wabbit has one similar. Although I note yours does not appear to have QR, can't quite see behind Tommy bar.
Both Record (Hampton family in Sheffield), and Woden (Hampton family near Birmingham, later Sheffield), made these direct copies of the patented (1880) Parkinson's QR wood vice, before developing their own version with webbed front and bars not cast slide.
I'd guess just after 1897, I think patents lasted 17yrs back then? But may not apply if not QR.

 

[25.4_mechanic]

I'd guess just after 1897, I think patents lasted 17yrs back then?

I think I read that it was five years for you at the time, renewable twice for five years each time and that the Parkinson QR-patent ended finally around 1904.

Carsten

--

 

[slim_boy_fat]

' square sausages'

Your starter for 10..... Click here .

 

[ranger08]

yes, and not common. Nice.
I believe wabbit has one similar. Although I note yours does not appear to have QR, can't quite see behind Tommy bar.
Both Record (Hampton family in Sheffield), and Woden (Hampton family near Birmingham, later Sheffield), made these direct copies of the patented (1880) Parkinson's QR wood vice, before developing their own version with webbed front and bars not cast slide.
I'd guess just after 1897, I think patents lasted 17yrs back then? But may not apply if not QR.

yes it has quick release and cast iron slides, rather cool, no other writing except the makers name

 

[SteveB58]

can anyone tell me how old this vice is, im picking pre ww1View attachment 319977

Please don't take a rotary wire brush or sand paper to this. Oily rag resto is all it needs.

Steve

 

[Crwys]

Hello,

I’m new to this forum, and have a question to ask:


Are any of the currently available half nuts suitable to be fitted to a Parkinson No 7?


I’ve been following the “Show us your bench vice(s)” thread picking up some good ideas and seeing some quite spectacular refurbs.

I’m currently restoring a scrappers Parkinson No7, all was going well until reassembly when the threads jumped tightening under pressure.

The half nut threads look pretty worn, whilst the main screw looks OK.

I tested the half nut from an old Record 53 vice, and even though it is a lot smaller than the Parkinson half nut, the thread pitch seems the same, and the vice worked.

(This old Record 53 doesn’t have a spring on the trigger shaft, and there isn’t room for one, it’s around the leg of the half nut, pressing against the release bar; I’m not sure whether this is normal.)

I was wondering whether the half nut from a Record T36L or a T112L can be adjusted to fit, or whether there is a better one to use.


Any help will be appreciated.

 

[Arc Tourist]

Someone should be along soon with a possible fix. Until then, welcome to the forum.

 

[MattF]

Have you a photo of the original half nut? Skipping/jumping when tightening is usually indicative of either crud in the threads else insufficient spring pressure. It's rare to see a worn half nut.

 

[Crwys]

Thank you.
The top pic is the original nut.

I cleaned it as part of the restoration, removing the crud with solvents, until it was back to bare metal.
When I first removed the Record 53 half nut, it had a lot of dried grease and sawdust, and took a bit of cleaning to make up work properly.

Some pics of the Parkinson half nut.