Show us your bench vice(s)

[CwazyWabbit]

for sale locally
parky model 8a 6 inch jaw
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I'd be all over that

 

[dannysheff]

I'd be all over that

nice vice - early as 2 part static and early version of this as Parkinson's apostrophe

- nuts/bolts may have been replaced and jaws drilled out from behind (or right through from front) to remove screws and replace jaw facing - usually this just leaves small holes, but these are big (but easy to just leave, or fill with screws/or and grind off)

commonly see this but I don't quite understand why - a beat up/rusty jaw screw may need drilling out - but why go right through?

 

[StevieO]

GW is that you selling a Fortis 10 3 jaw from Chesterfield on mktplace?

 

[ranger08]

nice vice - early as 2 part static and early version of this as Parkinson's apostrophe

- nuts/bolts may have been replaced and jaws drilled out from behind (or right through from front) to remove screws and replace jaw facing - usually this just leaves small holes, but these are big (but easy to just leave, or fill with screws/or and grind off)

commonly see this but I don't quite understand why - a beat up/rusty jaw screw may need drilling out - but why go right through?

metric socket head screws for replacement jaws, base U bolts appear original
i thought it would be an early one as the parky label is on the right hand side
wants to much for it

 

[GraemeVW]

GW is that you selling a Fortis 10 3 jaw from Chesterfield on mktplace?
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Yep.
I've stuck it on high at the moment as I'm not super sure I want to sell it.

However, people seem to want £100+ for any large old vice these days, and crazily, they seem to sell!

To be honest, I'm only thinking of selling as I need the bench space back, and putting it under the bench on the floor and forgetting about it for the next 10 years seems a shame.

 

[GraemeVW]

So, who bought the columbian swivel jaw for £30 at newark today?

 

[MAMIL6]

Woden woes

I've just acquired this Woden 79, the identical twin of the Record 74.
It was cheap because the anvil is missing. I have a lathe, so I can turn a replacement, but I'm wondering what the best material woudl be to make it from. There's a local metal supplier that lists D1 and O1 tool steel, and sells in small quantities. Or should I use mild steel and then try case hardening it ? Spoiler alert - I've never delved into the dark arts of heat treatment before, just seen a few instant-expert YouTube videos.

What I didn't realise 'til I got it home is that I also need to repair the fixed base, which has a chunk missing. Maybe it wasn't so cheap after all.

 

[tigdlo]

but I'm wondering what the best material woudl be to make it from.

An old hammer may not be too hard to turn with carbide if you don't want to heat treat, what is the large diameter? A through hardening steel would be better than case hardening, when I have looked in the past at steel for making bodywork hammers and dollies, which I never ended up doing, I found EN8, C45, 1045 for carbon steels or EN19 or EN24 for alloy steels were recommended, no idea about heat treating them without an oven though as they all seam to need a soak time, only done O1 myself with a map turbo torch.

 

[SteveB58]

An old hammer may not be too hard to turn with carbide if you don't want to heat treat, what is the large diameter? A through hardening steel would be better than case hardening, when I have looked in the past at steel for making bodywork hammers and dollies, which I never ended up doing, I found EN8, C45, 1045 for carbon steels or EN19 or EN24 for alloy steels were recommended, no idea about heat treating them without an oven though as they all seam to need a soak time, only done O1 myself with a map turbo torch.

is a hammer the best thing to use? We were always warned not to bang hammers together as there is a chance that they can shatter. I know it seems counter intuitive and I have never seen it myself, but our instructors would have fits if they ever saw us bannging two hammers together like a Newton cradle.

Steve

 

[Arc Tourist]

Realistically, a tiny anvil accessory on a vice is not very practical. Personally, I've used a piece of I-beam, channel, and even train rail before I acquired a proper anvil; and they all were big enough and worked fine for pounding on and straightening stuff. Since you have a lathe, consider complimenting the vice with steel, brass and even aluminium anvil's ? They are easily replaceable and would add a little bling that no other vice has. It would be easy enough to reface them if needed with just a light skim on the lathe.

 

[tigdlo]

We were always warned not to bang hammers together as there is a chance that they can shatter

Who makes hammers out of steel so hard with such poor impact resistance that it can shatter?

 

[Farside]

Who makes hammers out of steel so hard with such poor impact resistance that it can shatter?

It was certainly a thing at one time. The warning is well imprinted in generations of apprentices.

 

[tigdlo]

I mean't to add that it's an anvil, it's supposed to be hard to maintain it's shape, you shouldn't be hitting it with a hammer it's there to support a workpiece which is hit with the hammer.

 

[Onoff]

We were always warned not to bang hammers together as there is a chance that they can shatter.

Same here, apprentice in the early 80's.

Isn't it like a diamond can only be scratched by another diamond?

 

[dannysheff]

It was certainly a thing at one time. The warning is well imprinted in generations of apprentices.

Yeahbut...

What do you hit a hardened steel cold chisel or nail punch or --- with?

Trad smiths' anvils are wrought iron faced with hardened and tempered steel and the master smith would always be bouncing his hardened steel hammer off the hardened steel face as a signal to the second hammer.

A well tempered hammer has a hard steel face on a softer body (all one steel type but selectively quenched/tempered) - shouldn't shatter but could chip.

- wear goggs anyway if walloping hard.

 

[Arc Tourist]

rare vices on the uk bay at min starting -- "2 heavy duty vices" - both woodwork QR, the first looks like (under the paint job) the best Syers I've seen (ie Smith Marks, the first Uk QR patent), the second a long wheelbase Parky (mk 2)
sorry if I cut across anyone's watching these to bid, but be a shame if someone looking for such missed em

other reasons I post are:
1. The Parky has rather a clever recent repair to the broken spring syndrome (the proper cure is an expensive new clock-type spring which is diff to fit) - this might also work as an assist to a weak spring

2. One of the pix (no 6) of the Syers makes it look like there's a bad break in the front jaw, but I think this is just a digital phot artefact - risks of modern smartphone cameras - can hide defects but also make em appear where none was - and that's before all the latest generativeAI/chatGPT4/ML gets applied - watch out in the future - things may not be what they seem.

No bids at the moment, and I'm not going to, but I have been watching; and now the add appears with "free economy delivery", which I think the seller hasn't noticed ? I believe you are right about he crack in the front jaw shown in picture #6, it seems to be a glitch with the camera, as the ruler appears to have a weird looking break in it also ?

 

[MattF]

What do you hit a hardened steel cold chisel or nail punch or --- with?

The shank isn't hardened.

 

[dannysheff]

The shank isn't hardened.

Just testing -- you're right of course. Matt -- however I just file-tested my usual nail set (Stanley made) and seems just as hard at both ends.

 

[Seadog]

There's an unusual vice on FB at the moment. A Sam vice, with very curious jaws.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/801188951592136/

 

[arther dailey]

There's an unusual vice on FB at the moment. A Sam vice, with very curious jaws.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/801188951592136/

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beer cooler