Smart and Brown model M Mk1

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Once you have it up and running it will be fine

Cant complain too much. Working well enough to rebuild its self.
Once the motor and tumble bracket are done its all tweaking and improving.

Checking for taper last night 0.02 across the length. Cant grumble with that.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Keyway milled and pulley temp fitted
Can't find my loctite anywhere.

Old motors out and ready for base to be redrilled.
Brew first.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Clamped in position and tested on all pulleys.
Sitting on 6mm hard rubber. Needed the height and will help to isolate from the frame.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Trial and error with the motor mounting but got there in the end. Waiting on m10 countersunk to finish completely

The bolt that secured pulley to shaft was causing some runout so loctite 638 and left overnight before tightening
Nice and quiet and no vibration now.

Next job. See if the boring bars i aquired could be made to work

Yep.
Rear post is slightly lower and allows a larger tool. 1.5mm of shim and in it goes. Not the most suitable insert bur did the job.


So decide to do the final passes on the drawbar spacer.
Does the job but il be making a new one. Will make a dummy drawerbar this time.
Squashed it in the 4 jaw when I flipped the piece. Should have come all the way up to the bearing.
No biggie learning every time.

Really happy with the borrowed comparator stand. Makes clocking a part in a doddle.

Best of all. Its quiet while running.

Better sort out a remote next.

Magnetic box so can be stuck on the lathe or mill.

 

[Pete.]

What's that clonking on every turn at the end of the vid? Sounds like the motor pulley is loose on the spindle. Also it looks like the belt is running slightly off the crown on the motor pulley - shimming the back of the motor up slightly will cure that.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

What's that clonking on every turn at the end of the vid? Sounds like the motor pulley is loose on the spindle. Also it looks like the belt is running slightly off the crown on the motor pulley - shimming the back of the motor up slightly will cure that.

It was loose in the video. Now loctite 638 on the shaft and all good. Overshot the mark by a little.

Belt was far too tight (llower spindle height on new motor. Spacers made and also improved it.
Motor was clamped to the plate with a couple of parallel vices to check aligalign in the video so didnt help.

Il give shims under the back a try tomorrow and see if that helps.



Now running with no knocks or vibration.

 

[Pete.]

I was going to say it sounded awfully tight but I didn't know if it was just the phone amplifying the sound.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Been a bit of trial and error to get it right.
Some decent countersinks and I should be there.

Pleased with it. Definitely improved the machine.
Next big one.
Dro.
And improving my machining.

Until I got my ml1 last year id never touched a lathe or mill.
Struggling with graduations in imp so a Dro will help a lot.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Dont like turning eccentric pieces.
Makes me feel a bit sick.

Forcing me to pay attention to the dial though.

Pics of the finished article tomorrow. Had enough for now.
Hopefully have a working tumbler at the end of it.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Proof of concept.
Fitted tested and will do the job.

Need to make some adjustments to the finished article.

The bearing surface needs to be a bit thinner as its bridging the two reverse gears.
Will look at splitting the bearing surface. Half on center top and half on the other center to give the sleeve something to run on while fully contacting the machined area on the bracket.

Filing a flat to utalise the existing grub screw worked well.
Can't thread it as needs to rotate to adjust position of the cog correctly.

Served its purpose. Know it will do the job now.
Also learnt a lot and have a better procedure in mind next time.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Excuse the poor camera work.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Bit noisy atm
Had to slacken off the double wheels to test.

Looking at the video I forgot to tighten the live center. Not a bad finish for 6" unsupported.

Will make the real deal over the weekend.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

For the sake of continuity finished tumble shaft is here.
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/stuff-you-have-made-today.67127/page-147#post-1173374


Next quick job. New handle for the qctp
Then start designing the bed stop mic.
Theres a t slot running the length of my bed under the rack. This has an adjustable stop for the power feed stop.
Will either utalise the slot for a mic stop or try and encorparate the two.
Benefit id be able to adjust the autostop via the mic. More difficult to make though.
Would also like to make it usable for the cross slide.
The bolt holes for traveling steady are perfectly placed.

Vfd and motor have been a definite improvement. Quieter smoother and being able to knock the speed down on bigger parts has beem invaluable.

Considering ive stripped and rebuilt without tramming either the head or tailstock its turning out nice accurate work.

Testament to the makers.

Suppose I should turn a testbar up and check.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Found am offcut of brass round which came in handy...

Milled and fitted. Nice snug fit. Using original t nut atm.

Not keen on sacrificing a good mic.
Have this one someone cut to use as a
depth mic.
Debating milling a slot to accept the remaining g and tapping to hold it firm.
Dubious as to how well it will hold though.

 

[Parm]

Found am offcut of brass round which came in handy...

Milled and fitted. Nice snug fit. Using original t nut atm.

View attachment 143259 View attachment 143260

Not keen on sacrificing a good mic.
Have this one someone cut to use as a
depth mic.
Debating milling a slot to accept the remaining g and tapping to hold it firm.
Dubious as to how well it will hold though.


View attachment 143263
View attachment 143266

I might have a mic somewhere you can have, I’ll have a look. Might even have a sacrificed one

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Cheers parm. Have a duplicate 25 to 50mm 0.01 but its pristine.
The other one is 0.001

Will give yyou a bell tomoz. Havent even had my dinner yet. Busy week.

 

[Gus1]

Ref your query on lubrication of the gearbox, I think oil is most appropriate. I have 3 mk1s and two came with the g/box half full of oil and no sign of grease. The other one was full of some very nasty grease which was full of metal particles like metallic paint. With grease the particles can't of course drop out and so recirculate. The box in worst condition was the one full of grease although the rest of the lathe was in very fair condition. The correct lubricant is Shell Tellus oil but I'd have to look at the container to tell you the exact spec.
Comparing yr lathe with the lathes.co.uk site pic, it looks like yrs is a very early one. Later mk 1s had a different electrical switch control , different carriage gib strip knobs and different half nut operating lever arrangement.
Nice to see yrs so nicely repainted but aren't you going to clean up all the unpainted surfaces? That would transform it. You could even clean up the ways with scotchbrite with negligible metal removal. Many of the non critical surfaces could be well emeried to return it to an as new look.
Regards
Gus

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Welcome aboard, Gus

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Ref your query on lubrication of the gearbox, I think oil is most appropriate. I have 3 mk1s and two came with the g/box half full of oil and no sign of grease. The other one was full of some very nasty grease which was full of metal particles like metallic paint. With grease the particles can't of course drop out and so recirculate. The box in worst condition was the one full of grease although the rest of the lathe was in very fair condition. The correct lubricant is Shell Tellus oil but I'd have to look at the container to tell you the exact spec.

Hi Gus.
Must be some confusion .
The model m mk1 does not have a gearbox or oil sump.
Some apparently had a 2 speed between motor and spindle but rare.

Comparing yr lathe with the lathes.co.uk site pic, it looks like yrs is a very early one. Later mk 1s had a different electrical switch control , different carriage gib strip knobs and different half nut operating lever arrangement.

http://www.lathes.co.uk/smart-and-brown-model-M/
Definitely post war.
Somewhere beween the first black amd white image and the second lathe featured.
Gibs handles and halfnut mehanism are identical???
Cabinet is one of a kind from what I can find online.

Nice to see yrs so nicely repainted but aren't you going to clean up all the unpainted surfaces? That would transform it. You could even clean up the ways with scotchbrite with negligible metal removal. Many of the non critical surfaces could be well emeried to return it to an as new look.

Its clean and rust free.
Its a working lathe currently covered in swarf and oil.
Why go any further.
All handles are going to be replaced when I have time.
Its night and day compared to the images in post 1. No need to go furher.

 

[zx9]

Its clean and rust free.
Its a working lathe currently covered in swarf and oil.
Why go any further.
All handles are going to be replaced when I have time.
Its night and day compared to the images in post 1. No need to go furher.