Smart and Brown model M Mk1

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

My version of a Chinese laundry.
Carefully rebuild the tail tomorrow and then start breaking down the headstock.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

@eLuSiVeMiTe I bought a pack of felt bits [from my local art shop iirc] which includes rectangular bits the perfect size/thickness to replace the one on my Myford.

Still have some if you need it, measure the dimensions required and if it'll fit you can have one foc.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Cheers for the offer @slim_boy_fat
I ordered a couple of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/141763208112?chn=ps&dispItem=1&adgroupid=42825902799&rlsatarget=pla-327950634144&abcId=1129006&adtype=pla&merchantid=101726719&poi=&googleloc=9046050&device=m&campaignid=861899693&crdt=0&ul_ref=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F710-134428-41853-0%2F2%3Fmpre%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%252Fp%252FSoft-Felt-Vinyl-Application-Tool-Squeegee-Stickerbomb-Sheets-100-X-70-X-12mm%252F1688865272%253Fiid%253D141763208112%2526chn%253Dps%2526dispItem%253D1%26itemid%3D141763208112%26targetid%3D327950634144%26device%3Dm%26adtype%3Dpla%26googleloc%3D9046050%26poi%3D%26campaignid%3D861899693%26adgroupid%3D42825902799%26rlsatarget%3Dpla-327950634144%26abcId%3D1129006%26merchantid%3D101726719%26gclid%3DCj0KCQjwq7XMBRCDARIsAKVI5QYhsOZlffwNTw_SawfDzWHnzNlfaFZJ4XvMxLxISufWOC7uvCsT6y4aAhnsEALw_wcB%26srcrot%3D710-134428-41853-0%26rvr_id%3D1281819825279
A few months back. My wipers protruded inside the brass end caps and are about 12 mm thick dropping down to 3mm or so where they contact the bed. Had trouble finding a block big enough until I came across these. Means they hold a lot of oil too.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Rebuild went smoothly tonight. I can give the handle a good spin and get 5 odd revolutions now and everything clamps up properly too. Result.
Bit puzzled by the random threaded hole on the underside just behind the T nut (round ) nothing inside the casting to match up with it.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Bit puzzled by the random threaded hole on the underside just behind the T nut (round ) nothing inside the casting to match up with it.

Is that not the 'centring' adjustment screw for the tailstock - turn it one way and it moves the 'nose' of the tailstock to the left, the other way to the right.
I think it can also be used if cutting tapers, but not 100% sure about that bit, never having tried that yet. Yep, just looked at the Myford book and it refers to that as 'set over', used also to cut tapers when set up 'between centres' as I suggested.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Nope. If you look at the baseplate below there's three holes a block bolts into and a slideway going side to side. There's a matching slide on the top half. 2 Allen bolts run through either side of the top half and push against the block on the lower to adjust side to side to center it. Or off center for a taper.
On the baseplate the large hole has a t bolt that connects to a cammed bolt inside to lock the whole tailstock to the bed. The bolt hole behind this is threaded. I suppose a Allen bolt against the top casting would tilt the nose down. Doubt this is the case though. I'll post up on the S and B yahoo.

 

[Pete.]

That might just be a fixturing bolt for when the machined it.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

That might just be a fixturing bolt for when the machined it.

Makes sense. I can't fathom any other use for it.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

And for my next hurdle. Seized chuck. Will not budge.
Opposite end of the spindle clamped inside a drilled piece of wood to take stress off the back gear and back gear locked zero movement even with a shock. Next step. Remove the chuck from the backplate.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

I struck gold. Literally.

 

[Hood]

I struck gold. Literally. View attachment 116279

I have loads of that, willing to sell it to you at 1/4 the price of its market value, I will even pay the post

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Lol. It used to belong to a goldsmith mate. Was peppered with specks of gold when I started cleaning.

 

[Hood]

Lol. It used to belong to a goldsmith mate. Was peppered with specks of gold when I started cleaning.

Ah ok then, might be worth a bit more than the "gold" I have.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Wasn't going to let it beat me. Just glad the spindle protruded so much on the tumbler side. Bearings on a quick inspection look very tidy. Need to tidy the garage before I break it down. Need to lay out in order.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

^^ Wonder who put it on....The Incredible Hulk?

I like your solution though!!

 

[ndg]

You probably already know, but don't pull the headstock casing from the bed unless you have the tools and ability to re-tram them (or a desire to learn!). By all means pull it to bits otherwise though, good thread .

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

You probably already know, but don't pull the headstock casing from the bed unless you have the tools and ability to re-tram them (or a desire to learn!). By all means pull it to bits otherwise though, good thread .

Assumed I'd have to shim and test to reassemble.
Tbh given the age of the lathe its probably going to need tweaking anyway and I'd assume it would be more repeatable on a properly cleaned bed than trying to shim with flecks of paint and swarf in the area. It had a very quick and dirty paint job at some point in its life.
Also means easy access to remove the motor to replace bearings and strip and paint the internals. While I'm about it. Also need to fab a suds tank and source a suitable pump as its AWOL.
Currently hunting for a drawbar for my collets too. Maybe a future lathe project though given the scarcity of parts or a visit to biggleswade (I was working there today actually. Should have stopped by for a chat) to the owners of what remains of smart and brown for a possible replacement.

I'll have to learn and acquire the tools as I go. straight edge and engineers level are on the list already. Have a ground printer bar but a suspension tube might be a better option?

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

^^ Wonder who put it on....The Incredible Hulk?

I like your solution though!!

The cross slide shows signs of a crash and its a biig motor so.... I tried with an old oil filter strap but wasn't up to the torque. Didn't want metal on metal. Was quite pleased with my solution. I couldnt get it to slip by hand. A clout with a hammer nudged it though. Thought with that in place engaging back gear while locked would reduce the likelihood of busting the Heligears. Don't thing it would have budged if I didn't remove the chuck from the plate and clean swarf and apply a lot of penetrating oil. Still took dropping my weight onto a 30mm ally bar wedged between the 3 jaw to crack it. I couldn't apply enough force with a hex bar in the chuck. Came off easily once it broke.

 

[RichardM]

Regarding bed wipers, Boxford have returned to using felt for the X10 lathes, they were plastic.

I made new stainless holders and some wipers from felt I have lying around.

 

[Dieselman 63]

I managed to break two nails getting my 3 jaw apart/dropping it on my hand, the last has only just healed after being red for about six weeks. Moral of the story, don't put your hand between the chuck and the board protecting the ways.

Is it a self-centering one? The four jaw was quite a puzzler to get apart, no pictures online so I had to do it the old fashioned way of tapping every part that looked vaguely move-able with a brass rod to see if it came free. My machine lived behind a thicknesser for, I am told, about 15 years during which period it wasn't used. Sawdust is everywhere but inside the headstock and gearbox, the poor thing has been embalmed in the stuff and it's still coming out.

Mine also seems to have suffered some sort of crash at some point. The compound slide nut is pretty much wrecked, I would like a new one but don't fancy the cost. The dial bit below is pretty chewed up too with a gnarly braze through it. I've never seen this part for sale on breakers pages weirdly.