- Thread starter qwakers
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This really has me puzzled, I tested the old thermostat in a pan of boiling water - it resolutely stayed SHUT. So why was the engine over cooled and not overheating
The over cooling was cured by installing a new thermostat so this defies logic - can anyone give me a logical explanation of what's happening here ?
daleyd
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How do you get the old one out and new one in place? Glue/resin??
daleyd
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- Wrexham, North Wales
Ah - I was looking on my phone and couldn’t see the thread
My mum's stairlift.
Carers rang me yesterday to tell me it wasn't working. Totally dead.
Found someone who could take a look - several refused as they didn't install it - which I found weird - I want to pay you to look at something and fix it - you could blame the original installers for everything and charge me for it. . .
Got down to her's - I discovered the key wasn't in it - found it in the cutlery drawer . . put it back in and it went up and down - seat power rotated, and back, but then wouldn't set off back down.
Repair man turned up and got to work . . . spent two hours, fiddled, rode it, twiddled, dusted it, sprayed WD40 at it and pronouned it bust . . he could phone a mate to come and look, or flog us another . . .
So after he'd gone, I took a look . . . a bit of dismantling - bent limit switch bracket and broken switch - switch worked, bracket straightened and refitted - all works. Switch on order as the one in there is cracked. I reckon she got the seatbelt or clothing jammed in there.
So having saved 1115 quid ( 85 quid charge for the non-repair visit plus the 1200 replacement saved . . ) - I reckon I can treat myself . . .
Carers rang me yesterday to tell me it wasn't working. Totally dead.
Found someone who could take a look - several refused as they didn't install it - which I found weird - I want to pay you to look at something and fix it - you could blame the original installers for everything and charge me for it. . .
Got down to her's - I discovered the key wasn't in it - found it in the cutlery drawer . . put it back in and it went up and down - seat power rotated, and back, but then wouldn't set off back down.
Repair man turned up and got to work . . . spent two hours, fiddled, rode it, twiddled, dusted it, sprayed WD40 at it and pronouned it bust . . he could phone a mate to come and look, or flog us another . . .
So after he'd gone, I took a look . . . a bit of dismantling - bent limit switch bracket and broken switch - switch worked, bracket straightened and refitted - all works. Switch on order as the one in there is cracked. I reckon she got the seatbelt or clothing jammed in there.
So having saved 1115 quid ( 85 quid charge for the non-repair visit plus the 1200 replacement saved . . ) - I reckon I can treat myself . . .
I was told way back when I first started driving and fixing cars, the fact a stat stayed shut or opened at temp in a saucepan on the stove meant not a lot compared to when it was installed in the engine. Pump pressure could open a weak one and lead to over cooling, despite it staying shut in the pan.This really has me puzzled, I tested the old thermostat in a pan of boiling water - it resolutely stayed SHUT. So why was the engine over cooled and not overheating
The over cooling was cured by installing a new thermostat so this defies logic - can anyone give me a logical explanation of what's happening here ?
Wildefalcon
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- Gloucestershire, England
Finally got my lathe to work in forward and reverse. In the process learned about starting windings, and 4 pole change over switches and DOL starters.
That's why I prefer working at 3ph motors, the wiring is so much easier, no start windings to worry about & to reverse just swap 2 phases.
Wildefalcon
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- Gloucestershire, England
I'd love 3 phase, but can't justify it, as I'm only a hobbyist. There's actually 3 phase crossing the corner of the workshop, so it's potentially viable, maybe someday...
Another job ticked off the list this morning. I'd needed to generate some floor space in the Tractor Shed, so I'd moved two pallets each holding two JCB-3CX buckets out into the yard. Having been indoors I'd stacked them 'cup up' so of course they filled up with water first time it rained
I'd always intended to shuffle them around and invert them but never did !
So a bit of work this morning with the fork lift and at least they won't fill up again! Surprisingly tricky getting them in this configuration single handed - oh for a 'banksman' !
I'd always intended to shuffle them around and invert them but never did !
So a bit of work this morning with the fork lift and at least they won't fill up again! Surprisingly tricky getting them in this configuration single handed - oh for a 'banksman' !
I recently acquired a between-centres sine table at a very good price. The castings on both movable supports have in the past been broken and repaired. Although it does not affect operation, I considered the weld repair hideous and deserving of immediate repair. I'll probably repeat the same repair to the other casting that has been brazed.
Here are the before and after photos:
Here are the before and after photos:
Brad93
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- Essex, United Kingdom
how did you manage to not melt the paint
The brazed repair wasn't mine. I did the other one with the two countersunk socket screws.
So the two parts look identical, I'm going to mill off that brazed repair and do a matching repair.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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The other week I was in my local scrap yard.
My scrap got me the thick end off £400, plus theses two bits of scrap.
A Mamod Boiler.
Fleischmann 122/2 base plate.
I also found the Mamod whistle and safety valve.
Did not have to look hard for the level plug.
Soldered to the end cap.
So I made coffee on toast and a mug of milk and set to work.
I managed to save the leel plug and repair it. I had an insert left from another rebuild. It was left over as it was poorly finished. But a few minutes work had it suitable for this job.
The other inserts are re soldered. But the old steam pipe was not having anything to do with being fixed.
It was junked.
So I made a new one.
Joining of the English and the german. It took some bodging and more coffee to get it lined up. Yes, I could of drilled new holes in the base. But where is the fun in that?
I striped the piston, con rod and crank down to clean and remove the gunk.
The first steam caused some confussion. The steam pipe moved and cracked at the piston end. As it heated up you could see the pipe moving.
In steam, going like the clappers. Very fast and lots of power. I was thinking of making her Supper heated, but with the power she is making, I think not.
My scrap got me the thick end off £400, plus theses two bits of scrap.
A Mamod Boiler.
Fleischmann 122/2 base plate.
I also found the Mamod whistle and safety valve.
Did not have to look hard for the level plug.
Soldered to the end cap.
So I made coffee on toast and a mug of milk and set to work.
I managed to save the leel plug and repair it. I had an insert left from another rebuild. It was left over as it was poorly finished. But a few minutes work had it suitable for this job.
The other inserts are re soldered. But the old steam pipe was not having anything to do with being fixed.
It was junked.
So I made a new one.
Joining of the English and the german. It took some bodging and more coffee to get it lined up. Yes, I could of drilled new holes in the base. But where is the fun in that?
I striped the piston, con rod and crank down to clean and remove the gunk.
The first steam caused some confussion. The steam pipe moved and cracked at the piston end. As it heated up you could see the pipe moving.
In steam, going like the clappers. Very fast and lots of power. I was thinking of making her Supper heated, but with the power she is making, I think not.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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This Anchor light was mine for next to nowt.
I should of learned by now.
Getting this far was a pain. The brass boss on the tank is now loose and free to spin. I bent the wick gear shaft as well.
Oh yes the patch of solder LHS should have a locking tab.
Old stock wick gear and shaft. Plus much naughty words.
In the clean up.
I had to re do the rivets on the vertical brass bars.
Then the top parted company. So I made new rivets from copper wire.
A fuel tank that holds fuel, a wick gear that works. To stop the heat from one repair affecting another part I used dry ice soaked rags.
Tyhe glass was very dirty, meths and news paper had it clean.
The shape of teh glass amplifies the light.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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This needed soem attention, as it did not work.
Openjing it showed the return spring was broken, the one solder joint was broken and the pivet poits were seized with oil.
Meths vapout had the internals clean. Any thing else leads to calibration issues. Like it will not read correctly.
Dirty meths is saved to be used on Wood cleaning projects.
The back was "Painted" with marker pen. The Meths had that off. The reste button was almost lost.
It went "Ping". The thought I had was........
it is scrap now, as I have no spares.
As you can see I found it. At the last dregs of my coffee.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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As mentioned above, Dirty Meths.
Let the dirty fluid setting in a old coffee jar.
Then using wire wool use it to clean, well remove the old wax and move the stain around.
Let the wood dry. Repeat if you need to.
Then either wax or french polish.
Let the dirty fluid setting in a old coffee jar.
Then using wire wool use it to clean, well remove the old wax and move the stain around.
Let the wood dry. Repeat if you need to.
Then either wax or french polish.
