Afraid I cheat - flat chisel or even a tile removing chisel in an SDS drill on rota-stop. Cleans mortar off quicker, easier, less aching later if you drive a mouse more days than handle tools.
- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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- 12,917
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- France, Brittany.
This had been growing in the wall.
Well, she looks happy and smiley, why get rid of her ?
Apologies for my humour @RaceDiagnostics .
Shox Dr
Chief Engineer to Carlos Fandango
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- 17,993
- Location
- East Yorkshire
Hand me down, from my mums sister. 
It's broken! Give it to David
Usually its via point to the tip. This however was worth looking at, 12quid for a new battery a bit of a clean, and it's ALIVE. 20mins later and its almost replaced our lass.
It's broken! Give it to David
Usually its via point to the tip. This however was worth looking at, 12quid for a new battery a bit of a clean, and it's ALIVE. 20mins later and its almost replaced our lass.
Emergency here as I ran out of cores,the supplies of these are erratic,most of them are 5/8” but occasionally they’re m22,very close,so I even have an sds arbour that’s m22,so I cobbled this from 2 and welded with a nickel chrome rod,with pre heat.
Note the non fluted s/s pilot guide!
Note the non fluted s/s pilot guide!
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- 19,614
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- Going Away.
My Tilley heater was having issues.
I ordered a new vaperizer. So I had a go at fixing the old one.
The top bits lifts off, the wire cage is brittle after a few burns. So I hung it up out of the way.
Stripping the old vaperizer down found it was caked in carbon deposites. Do not uses any abresives on the fine pin inside. Of yes, the springs are known to break as well.
A soak in oven cleaner had it all clean.
New seals and we are now burning away very nicley.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- 19,614
- Location
- Going Away.
I am cleaning up my workshop, slowly. So has I come accross projectes I am finishing them off.
The above plane is a bitsa.
Bit of that, bit of this and some of the other.
In bits.
Cleaning the rust off showed a few pits.
A flash over with car body lead solder filled them. I quick dash to a friend who has a 24" rotary oil stone had it flat and true.
I did the blade at the same time.
In paint.
Just setting up.
The blades was ground and sharpned to 15 and 20 Deg. So it can be used to trim plastics.
JOEPRO
Member
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- 3,246
- Location
- UK
I recently mounted a wall air reel. Now I want to put one of my compressors- a 100L one in my attic loft
Sketchy? Yes.
Will make an aluminium wheel holder to secure it.
Starting to run a copper air pipe to fall now towards water tap outlet and water sep on wall as recommended on here
Sketchy? Yes.
Will make an aluminium wheel holder to secure it.
Starting to run a copper air pipe to fall now towards water tap outlet and water sep on wall as recommended on here
ajlelectronics
Forum Supporter
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- 9,539
- Location
- Gloucester, England
Have you ever changed the clutch cable on a Renault 19 16valve?
Have you ever tried to change the heater matrix or wiper spindles on a Scimitar? Rumour has it that Reliant started with those items and then built the car around them!
JOEPRO
Member
- Messages
- 3,246
- Location
- UK
I'll raise you Mercedes V12 Engine mounts replacement
Manual says - step one "remove engine".
I did it without removing engine. Had to remove radiator etc and alternator. Then disassemble the mount brackets within the engine compartment and slide each peice out one by one. 900nm destroys engine mounts on these. Indeed it had ripped both in half.
Fit an auto drain valve or it'll never be drained.
(I had one up in the loft at my last workshop)
James1979
Member
- Messages
- 8,434
- Location
- Orkney
Another vote for auto drain but if you’re concerned about it failing then a remote drain would do well.
Just a pipe and a 1/4 turn valve where you can get at it.
JOEPRO
Member
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- 3,246
- Location
- UK
I got the 15mm copper pipe bent in one length to suit.
Will fit PCL XF high flow to 10mm bore hose and onto the copper with 10mm - 15mm reducer end feed. No restrictions at all.
Smooth bends then all falling away from the compressor towards a T pointing down. This will have a quarter valve fitted to drain out any collected water drops. The copper should act as a heat sink / water separator.
Then an actual water separator/ regulator will be mounted onto the wall from the copper and another XF outlet fitting from it to connect the 10mm bore 15 metres hose reel onto.
This reel will do for garage operations. For any blasting or spraying I have a free flowing XF Tee fitting to link the reel outlet to my 200L compressor and into one 10mm bore hose.
Gives me a very good and flexible setup IMO.
The drain/ colllector section is restricted by the door. I will have a quarter turn valve there and it'll be easy to give it a quick empty any time I am using the reel.
Will fit PCL XF high flow to 10mm bore hose and onto the copper with 10mm - 15mm reducer end feed. No restrictions at all.
Smooth bends then all falling away from the compressor towards a T pointing down. This will have a quarter valve fitted to drain out any collected water drops. The copper should act as a heat sink / water separator.
Then an actual water separator/ regulator will be mounted onto the wall from the copper and another XF outlet fitting from it to connect the 10mm bore 15 metres hose reel onto.
This reel will do for garage operations. For any blasting or spraying I have a free flowing XF Tee fitting to link the reel outlet to my 200L compressor and into one 10mm bore hose.
Gives me a very good and flexible setup IMO.
The drain/ colllector section is restricted by the door. I will have a quarter turn valve there and it'll be easy to give it a quick empty any time I am using the reel.
Distraught gardener came and reported he'd marooned the ride on mower round the back of the tractor shed. First cut of the year, he'd checked oil & petrol and it started up first crank apparently. He'd done a few hundred yards then it stopped and wouldn't start. He's only a youngster starting out running his own business - uses his own mower for the smaller lawns but in this case using my 2 year old Mountfied 153M-SD (or some such number).
Quick rescue mission - fuel = Yes, Air Filter = OK, Spark - where the deuce is the bally spark plug ! Quick check in 'owner manual' nowt ! - google shows me it's right at the front inaccessible due to an excess of 'styling plastic'. I send him home and continue . .
. . . sure enough get plug out (stupid little 16 mm hex) and it's clogged to death with soft carbon. Run it through the sand blaster - now it has a lovely clean insulator - blow the sand out with an airline and re-install with just a trace of oil on the threads. Starts first crank - drives about fine.
. . . . conclusion - started on choke - remained on choke - choked to death - gentle word in gardeners ear required !
Quick rescue mission - fuel = Yes, Air Filter = OK, Spark - where the deuce is the bally spark plug ! Quick check in 'owner manual' nowt ! - google shows me it's right at the front inaccessible due to an excess of 'styling plastic'. I send him home and continue . .
. . . sure enough get plug out (stupid little 16 mm hex) and it's clogged to death with soft carbon. Run it through the sand blaster - now it has a lovely clean insulator - blow the sand out with an airline and re-install with just a trace of oil on the threads. Starts first crank - drives about fine.
. . . . conclusion - started on choke - remained on choke - choked to death - gentle word in gardeners ear required !
Brad93
Member
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- 18,344
- Location
- Essex, United Kingdom
Poor sod probably doesn't know what a choke is, they don't teach kids engines anymore remember.
Garage I worked in as a holiday job had a Champion machine that did this: spark plug in the top; sand; then air. Did a really good job. Fun for a young teenager
Plugs were priced 2/6 -"have been for years".
I would guess my other half has no idea - my ex but one certainly didn't - never driven anything with one. Pretty much every car after early 90's didn't have one. Plonk 'em in/on something you turn a key to start and . . .
But before anyone complains they should - how many know where to set advance/retard and a hand throttle to all an engine to be hand cranked over . . . ? Times changes, knowledge isn't needed until you find you need it.
Gardener needed to know today and now does
In todays H&S culture though, I'd be expecting a complaint about the lack of training given
Brad93
Member
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- 18,344
- Location
- Essex, United Kingdom
Retard makes sense i think to start it. slightly later spark once the piston is already on its way down, should reduce kickbackI would guess my other half has no idea - my ex but one certainly didn't - never driven anything with one. Pretty much every car after early 90's didn't have one. Plonk 'em in/on something you turn a key to start and . . .
But before anyone complains they should - how many know where to set advance/retard and a hand throttle to all an engine to be hand cranked over . . . ? Times changes, knowledge isn't needed until you find you need it.
Gardener needed to know today and now does
In todays H&S culture though, I'd be expecting a complaint about the lack of training given
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
- Messages
- 12,917
- Location
- France, Brittany.
Ahh, chokes on petrol engines.
My straight six 4.75 l possibly Rolls Royce Commer petrol engine, had a manual choke, was operated by sticking my hand under the drivers side wheel arch, warming it up, then releasing it.
One day on a long drive, it wouldn't go up hills, pulled over, admitted mechanical defeat, gave up, admitted defeat, texted a few people in the know, changed the fuel filter, etc.
Following morning thought I'd try starting it, found the choke was already on, that explained that....
Live and learn.
My straight six 4.75 l possibly Rolls Royce Commer petrol engine, had a manual choke, was operated by sticking my hand under the drivers side wheel arch, warming it up, then releasing it.
One day on a long drive, it wouldn't go up hills, pulled over, admitted mechanical defeat, gave up, admitted defeat, texted a few people in the know, changed the fuel filter, etc.
Following morning thought I'd try starting it, found the choke was already on, that explained that....
Live and learn.
Blue Chips
Forum Supporter
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- 622
- Location
- Maine, USA
I decided to spend a few hours fixing up the little turntable that I bought at Liberty Tool Company the other day. I don't know what it was originally used for, and to be honest, I don't know if I'll ever actually use it for anything, but there are several possibilities. The only identifying marks are what appear to be "WHB" on the frame casting.
Here's the turntable as purchased. It has a 48:1 gear ratio.
It had some problems. For one thing, the platter wobbled as the shaft turned, so first I bored the hole to 5/8 inch.
I installed a sleeve and a new 1/2" shaft (nice tight hot-cold press fit). Then I cleaned up the edges of the platter and refaced it so that it turns nice and true.
This is the underside of the platter with the new shaft after truing it.
The other problem with this gadget was that the original manufacturing was rather sloppy. The original shaft was about a degree out of plumb/perpendicular in the cast-iron frame, which might have been good enough for whatever its original use was, but I'm a lot pickier about that kind of thing, so I bored out the shaft holes (forgot to take a photo while boring) in the frame to 5/8 inch to square them up. Here are a few of the parts after stripping the paint and giving them a very light bead blasting:
Boring out the holes in the frame allowed me to install sintered bronze bushings, which is an improvement over the original, which had no bushings.
The original unit only had a thrust bearing that supported a downward load, so I decided to improve upon that and make a bronze bearing that would handle an upward load and also keep the worm gear more accurately and securely centered over the worm wheel. I made the bearing saddle-shaped to conform to the curved cast-iron frame.
I turned a smooth thrust surface on the gear to mate up with the new thrust bearing.
Here's the assembled unit. I replaced the original thrust washer/bearing with a pair of sintered bronze bearings. You can see the saddle-shaped bronze bearing above the gear. I left the shaft extra long for the time being, since I still don't know what I'd be using it for, and I can always shorten it later. I buffed the gear teeth, treated the gears with gun bluing, and oiled them.
I probably spent about six hours messing about with this, but it was fun, so the time doesn't count. It now operates very smoothly, and there's not a bit of wobble in the platter. I'm using a snug-fitting cotter pin to secure the worm gear on its shaft for now, since it will allow easy disassembly if I ever want to modify it. I'll probably just oil the gadget and stash it in a container until I get the urge to make something with it.
Here's the turntable as purchased. It has a 48:1 gear ratio.
It had some problems. For one thing, the platter wobbled as the shaft turned, so first I bored the hole to 5/8 inch.
I installed a sleeve and a new 1/2" shaft (nice tight hot-cold press fit). Then I cleaned up the edges of the platter and refaced it so that it turns nice and true.
This is the underside of the platter with the new shaft after truing it.
The other problem with this gadget was that the original manufacturing was rather sloppy. The original shaft was about a degree out of plumb/perpendicular in the cast-iron frame, which might have been good enough for whatever its original use was, but I'm a lot pickier about that kind of thing, so I bored out the shaft holes (forgot to take a photo while boring) in the frame to 5/8 inch to square them up. Here are a few of the parts after stripping the paint and giving them a very light bead blasting:
Boring out the holes in the frame allowed me to install sintered bronze bushings, which is an improvement over the original, which had no bushings.
The original unit only had a thrust bearing that supported a downward load, so I decided to improve upon that and make a bronze bearing that would handle an upward load and also keep the worm gear more accurately and securely centered over the worm wheel. I made the bearing saddle-shaped to conform to the curved cast-iron frame.
I turned a smooth thrust surface on the gear to mate up with the new thrust bearing.
Here's the assembled unit. I replaced the original thrust washer/bearing with a pair of sintered bronze bearings. You can see the saddle-shaped bronze bearing above the gear. I left the shaft extra long for the time being, since I still don't know what I'd be using it for, and I can always shorten it later. I buffed the gear teeth, treated the gears with gun bluing, and oiled them.
I probably spent about six hours messing about with this, but it was fun, so the time doesn't count. It now operates very smoothly, and there's not a bit of wobble in the platter. I'm using a snug-fitting cotter pin to secure the worm gear on its shaft for now, since it will allow easy disassembly if I ever want to modify it. I'll probably just oil the gadget and stash it in a container until I get the urge to make something with it.
