The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Last two, last cookies, last doughnuts.
From this.
This was fun.
From this.
This was fun.
- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
Rice cooker placed on top of hot hob...melted foot.
Replacement foot made. Should keep wife happy. She's only "cooked" three rice cookers so far.
View attachment 416778
When we got out first electric kettle many years ago my Gran filled it & put it on the gas cooker to boil it. Mum arrived just in time before much damage was done but one of the plastic feet had melted. Kettle was used for many years after but always had a rock in it.
Farside
Badly Welded Man
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The back's under compression during the cut stroke, same reason lorry chassis crack on the top.
MattF
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What methods did you use to tidy up the square?
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Which one?
MattF
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The rusty, grubby one.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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The lower one, it was badly pitted.
The brass was protected with filler and or many layers of tape. Then a wire brush was used to attack the rust. Then a blow over with a blow torch.
Then it was "painted" with citric acid powder, flour and white vinegar. When the metal turns black it is washed off under cold water with a brass coated wire brush.
Allowed to dry.
The brass was cleaned with metal cleaner and wire wool.
The wood was sanded with 800 grit Wet and dry. Then polished with 1000 grit and wax.
Then it was warmed with a blow torch until the wax melted smooth.
Then a dark bee's wax was applied with 0000 grit wire wool. Let to dry.
The blade was then coated with Gun Black, left to dry.
The whole lot was given a good going over with bee's wax.
This will be used at the allotments.
octo0072000
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I've still got my Dad's square as well as his yankee ratchet screwdriver and folding 3 ft ruler somewhere in the shed
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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More MIS fun today.
But some one brought custard doughnuts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Tidy, but just in need of TLC.
The only power tool was a battery drill and wire brushes.
The magnet is round.
The black packing between the metal is plastic.
Who knew, they didn't!!
Oh well.
A day with out learning is a day wasted.
Brush primer.
Not 100%, but it is a learning curve.
But some one brought custard doughnuts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Tidy, but just in need of TLC.
The only power tool was a battery drill and wire brushes.
The magnet is round.
The black packing between the metal is plastic.
Who knew, they didn't!!
Oh well.
A day with out learning is a day wasted.
Brush primer.
Not 100%, but it is a learning curve.
cheb
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The_Yellow_Ardvark
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I know electricity is a scary subject for some. I understand that.
This needed to be re-wired and tested.
This is a awkward first repair. But it is simple.
This shows the old school connections.
The chuck needed some heat, oil and force.
It passed the PAT inspection.
This needed to be re-wired and tested.
This is a awkward first repair. But it is simple.
This shows the old school connections.
The chuck needed some heat, oil and force.
It passed the PAT inspection.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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The restoration bug has bitten a MIS member.
So I set a challenge.
No power tools.
No new parts.
A Army entrenching tool
In bits.
Fixings are metric. This gives a hint of it's age. Post 1980 for The British army or post 150 for the Europe forces, The blade pattern gives it away.
A good attack with wire brushes the worse of the rust was gone.
This is a over the counter rust killer.
It does not do what it says on the tin.
To get a good result, wire brush, apply, wire brush, apply, wire brush, drink coffee as it dries.
YAY, found in the recent box of goodies.
It also fits, plus it is very similar to the original design.
Oh we know what army it was from.
Remove the shaft to blade and you get a trench Wacker. There is evidence of the one edge being sharpened.
This was also a hand to hand combat weapon as well as a digging tool.
The nut is plain, but the bolt is a metric Long Lock design, a per the information found on the net.
It was made in Germany, in the GDR.
So I set a challenge.
No power tools.
No new parts.
A Army entrenching tool
In bits.
Fixings are metric. This gives a hint of it's age. Post 1980 for The British army or post 150 for the Europe forces, The blade pattern gives it away.
A good attack with wire brushes the worse of the rust was gone.
This is a over the counter rust killer.
It does not do what it says on the tin.
To get a good result, wire brush, apply, wire brush, apply, wire brush, drink coffee as it dries.
YAY, found in the recent box of goodies.
It also fits, plus it is very similar to the original design.
Oh we know what army it was from.
Remove the shaft to blade and you get a trench Wacker. There is evidence of the one edge being sharpened.
This was also a hand to hand combat weapon as well as a digging tool.
The nut is plain, but the bolt is a metric Long Lock design, a per the information found on the net.
It was made in Germany, in the GDR.
Aged 6 I was given a new folding 3ft rule (as well as my dad's dad's claw hammer with a new handle). I still have the rule - it just doesn't measure 3ft very accurately 47 yrs later . . . (claw hammer still works well though - was using it last sunday)
ajlelectronics
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I bought a pair of old fog lights for my Saab, only 10€. When I get them I can see they say Bosch Halogen and Made in Sweden. They have no CE mark so they are older than 1984. Made in Sweden, not bad for 10€.
Treated with plastic restorer to the left, just cleaned with soap and water on right.
There's some rust, I put linseed oil on it... I figure that's good enough for now. Possible to do a better job later, separate the glass from the body with a thinner bath.
Plastic restorer on both
Tried applying some yellow headlight film, first time ever so I did a lot of mistakes, apparently you can use heat to make it go easier. Will do that on the next one. I like the yellow shine, will see though how I proceed, good thing is I can just remove it for a clear look.
I am cooking up my own circuit to make the lamps run on different voltages, so I can run the things as front position lights during the day, and when I need the fog lights (was real foggy recently) I can just press the fog-light button and they glow full strength. Also need them to shut off when the low beams are on and fog light switch is not depressed. I'll need three relays to make that logic work.
Arduino PWM is your friend. That way you also have the option to fit LED bulbs if you prefer for lower current.
DennisCA
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I see no benefit in mucking about with arduinos and PWMs. Switched buck / boost converters for car usage have existed since the 1980s that are 90-95% efficient. That's better than most PWM setups can do, and they are made to live inside a cars engine compartment, no need to invent my own solutions that just add complexity.
And absolutely no LEDs in lights not designed for them, that's illegal and for very good reasons too.
e: Sorry if I am coming off a bit gruff but you're like the 10th person who brought up arduino, pwm and led. All things I don't want or need.
And absolutely no LEDs in lights not designed for them, that's illegal and for very good reasons too.
e: Sorry if I am coming off a bit gruff but you're like the 10th person who brought up arduino, pwm and led. All things I don't want or need.
That's my theory - so while a mate of mine is designing/building the bestest possible version . . . I've been driving and enjoying the old fashioned, more original, version for the last 20 yrs
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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That would explain the broken teeth.
Fixed a small (but expensive)piece of wiring harnass for fuel and temperature gauges on my k75.
It was broken where one wire split into two. It was originally crimped and I couldn't solder it so made a small piece 1/8 tube fit, and crimped it back on. Then had to make a tool to disassemble one connector to be able to slide a new piece of shrink sleeve over.
Tool is the piece of allen bolt standing on the hammer.
Forgot to make a finished photo, will add that tommorow.
It was broken where one wire split into two. It was originally crimped and I couldn't solder it so made a small piece 1/8 tube fit, and crimped it back on. Then had to make a tool to disassemble one connector to be able to slide a new piece of shrink sleeve over.
Tool is the piece of allen bolt standing on the hammer.
Forgot to make a finished photo, will add that tommorow.
